New engine break-in period

[Oscurida]

Hello all! so im getting a new remanufactured engine and I heard something about changing the oil during the break-in period. I heard at 600, 1200, 1200, 1200 miles to change the oil during this period. I also heard to start with regular oil and not synthetic oil. im a fan of royal purple synthetic 5w-20 but that would be expensive in changing the oil and filters during this process. so my question would be any advice on this break in period? which oil, synthetic or not, if I do regular oil for this process - can I run synthetic after, I change the oil filters also correct. Any adive would help thanks. any other fluids that need to change during this also.

 

[Travelin Ram]

I typically change oil in a new car around a thousand miles. Most people probably think that’s overkill, but I consistently find glitter in the drained oil. Will that wear metal harm the engine in a big way if you let the filter trap what it can and run the original oil to a full change interval? Probably not. But oil is cheap and engines are not.

I use the same oil at the beginning as I use thereafter. Not a believer in boutique oils, especially. IMO fresh clean Walmart supertech is better than oil that cost 3x the price with 5k miles of contaminants circulating in it.

Oil threads are like talking religion. I’m sure the cultists will be along soon to consign me to the flames.

 

[RamDiver]

I typically change oil in a new car around a thousand miles. Most people probably think that’s overkill, but I consistently find glitter in the drained oil. Will that wear metal harm the engine in a big way if you let the filter trap what it can and run the original oil to a full change interval? Probably not. But oil is cheap and engines are not.

I use the same oil at the beginning as I use thereafter. Not a believer in boutique oils, especially. IMO fresh clean Walmart supertech is better than oil that cost 3x the price with 5k miles of contaminants circulating in it.

Oil threads are like talking religion. I’m sure the cultists will be along soon to consign me to the flames.

I changed my oil about the same, about 1200 miles, 2700 miles and 4700 miles on the clock.

The salesman at the dealership insisted that these new engines were good to run 6000 miles until the first change.

I just smiled and said, "O really? Thanks."

And like you, I saw lots of particulate after each oil change.

My regular OCI is about every 5000 miles.

As far as oil, I'm quite biased because of the weather where I live. Sometimes we see -39 F but often the temperature lingers at about -5 to -14F.

I started using full synthetic around 2010 in my Tundra and noticed a massive improvement with cold weather starting.

A local self-proclaimed auto mechanic lube expert insisted that you only require full synthetic oil in a high performance engine.

He got my same response, "O, really. Thanks".

I use full synthetic oil in all my vehicles and small engines, always.

Like you said, oil is cheap, engines are not.
YMMV

.

 

[GTyankee]

don't pull or load it up heavy for at least 600 miles,
seems to be the rule of thunb

 

[Riccochet]

don't pull or load it up heavy for at least 600 miles,
seems to be the rule of thunb

That's more for the rear differential to break in.

Modern Hemi's will be "breaking in" for 20,000 - 30,000 miles. The majority of it happens in the first 10,000. Then you'll see wear metals gradual decrease over the next 10-20k. At least that's what my UOA's from Blackstone told me for my last two, and current, trucks.

 

[Oscurida]

so the place i got the engine from said to do 500 then 1500 mile regular conventional oil change then i can switch to synthetic oil at 3000 miles.

 

[turkeybird56]

Use a good Dino oil after 1st 1000 and change. Go 4,000 more on Good Dino oil, at 5000, go to Full synthetic everything and do not look back. Or U can go with what the engine guys said. Regardless, after break in, get Good Full Synthetic and Good 100% Synthetic oil filter in there, and stay with synthetic. All good. Try to stay with a decent OCI. If U only do GG runs and no towing, U could extend out to 7500. But U on the Island, and the City and a lot of stop and go, especially if the LIE backed up, and and. I would do 5000 OCI and also ROTATE tires every 5000 miles. ALL IMHO.

ADDED: in case U do not know: Not trying to insult, just in case U were not aware.

OCI: Oil Change Interval
GG: Grocery Getter.

 

[Oscurida]

Use a good Dino oil after 1st 1000 and change. Go 4,000 more on Good Dino oil, at 5000, go to Full synthetic everything and do not look back. Or U can go with what the engine guys said. Regardless, after break in, get Good Full Synthetic and Good 100% Synthetic oil filter in there, and stay with synthetic. All good. Try to stay with a decent OCI. If U only do GG runs and no towing, U could extend out to 7500. But U on the Island, and the City and a lot of stop and go, especially if the LIE backed up, and and. I would do 5000 OCI and also ROTATE tires every 5000 miles. ALL IMHO.

ADDED: in case U do not know: Not trying to insult, just in case U were not aware.

OCI: Oil Change Interval
GG: Grocery Getter.

so go with good conventional oil from start and change at 1k then at 4k and then at 5k go synthetic and done right?

 

[mtofell]

I just got a 6.4 crate engine replacement at the dealership and they didn't say anything about a break in or quick oil change. Not saying it's a bad idea but there doesn't seem to be any recommendation from Ram. As @Riccochet says, the rear-diff seems to be the main thing needing a break-in per Ram's advice. All that being said, I did go easy on my engine for the first 1000 or so miles and didn't work it hard by towing.

 

[RamDiver]

The volume of particulate visible in the oil during the short intervals I used tells me that Ram is not making any effort to help your engine last beyond the warranty period.

When I broke in 3 motorcycle engines in the 80s, there was never any question.

Short OCIs was a standard.

How could recirculating metal particulate through your oil sump on any engine be a good idea?

.

 

[Travelin Ram]

Going too gently on a new engine impedes proper ring break in. Most builders and many OEM will recommend brief periods of brisk acceleration and deceleration.

Mopar says “While cruising, brief full-throttle acceleration within the limits of local traffic laws contributes to a good break-in.”

After the first hour or two I goose it occasionally for increasing lengths of time.

 

[RamDiver]

Going too gently on a new engine impedes proper ring break in. Most builders and many OEM will recommend brief periods of brisk acceleration and deceleration.

Mopar says “While cruising, brief full-throttle acceleration within the limits of local traffic laws contributes to a good break-in.”

After the first hour or two I goose it occasionally for increasing lengths of time.

I've never understood the science behind that concept of a fast break-in makes for a fast engine, maybe, it's just semantics.

I drove my Ram like an old fart with an open crate of eggs on the dash, for the first 1500 miles.

Then I added a few moderate accelerations here and there but never completely planted the pedal until about 8000 miles.

I did about the same with the 3 motorcycles and none of them seemed to be lacking in performance.

The last bike was insanely fast especially after I hopped it up a bit. Not too many 750s from the 80s could power wheely with ease, with just a crank of the throttle.

I'm very happy with my Ram truck and how it performs. It has just over 16,000 miles now and I'd say it would easily leave my former Tundra in the dust and feel smooth while doing it.

.

 

[Riccochet]

I've never understood the science behind that concept of a fast break-in makes for a fast engine, maybe, it's just semantics.

I drove my Ram like an old fart with an open crate of eggs on the dash, for the first 1500 miles.

Then I added a few moderate accelerations here and there but never completely planted the pedal until about 8000 miles.

I did about the same with the 3 motorcycles and none of them seemed to be lacking in performance.

The last bike was insanely fast especially after I hopped it up a bit. Not too many 750s from the 80s could power wheely with ease, with just a crank of the throttle.

I'm very happy with my Ram truck and how it performs. It has just over 16,000 miles now and I'd say it would easily leave my former Tundra in the dust and feel smooth while doing it.

.

The purpose is to break in the upper cylinder walls. At higher RPM's there is a thousandths or so of "stretch" in the rotating assembly that you won't get at low/mid RPM range. Combined with the bit of extra heat it really seats those rings.

I don't believe in any set amount of miles though. At least not for the engines I've built. 20 minutes at 2000 RPM's on the dyno for cam break in. Change oil. 7-10 dyno pulls later and it's broken in. Change oil, put in vehicle and hammer down.

Crate engines, at minimum, should have a 20 minute cam break in done before being put on the road.

 

[RamDiver]

The purpose is to break in the upper cylinder walls. At higher RPM's there is a thousandths or so of "stretch" in the rotating assembly that you won't get at low/mid RPM range. Combined with the bit of extra heat it really seats those rings.

I don't believe in any set amount of miles though. At least not for the engines I've built. 20 minutes at 2000 RPM's on the dyno for cam break in. Change oil. 7-10 dyno pulls later and it's broken in. Change oil, put in vehicle and hammer down.

Crate engines, at minimum, should have a 20 minute cam break in done before being put on the road.

So, if I understand your explanation, at the higher RPM, there is a minute increase in travel of the piston/connecting rod assembly (thousandths) created by inertia force referred to as "stretch".

This additional travel, combined with the additional heat created, assists in the seating of the rings.


I have never built an engine and I'm not disputing any of that information but I'm curious and have questions.

Has it been proven through testing that there's a distinct advantage to breaking in this area of the cylinder wall/seating the rings sooner than later or that delaying breaking in this area is counter-productive?

By maxing the RPM and peak speed of travel of the piston, early in the life of an engine, do I not create additional stresses and potential metal fatigue that would be less likely after a longer period of time?


In theory, at least in my mind, if one was to gradually work up to a maximum RPM state, there would be far less stress on all of the engine components before creating the additional stress of this stretch of the rotating components. What am I not considering?

.

 

[REDinAZ]

so the place i got the engine from said to do 500 then 1500 mile regular conventional oil change then i can switch to synthetic oil at 3000 miles.

yes, that seems to be the old school thinking, and really, what could it hurt?. for example off the dealer lot I drained the '17's factory fill well before 1,000 miles, then ran regular Pennzoil Yellow Bottle a little over 2000K, then permanently switched to the Pennzoil "Ultra" Platinum going forward. just FWIW that oil and the FRAM Ultra Synthetic filter seems to be an outstanding (and relatively cheap "synthetic" combo) to run in that engine. the oil zealots on here even convinced me recently to switch to the 5winter-30 in the 5.7L and I have no complaints.

 

[RamDiver]

yes, that seems to be the old school thinking, and really, what could it hurt?. for example off the dealer lot I drained the '17's factory fill well before 1,000 miles, then ran regular Pennzoil Yellow Bottle a little over 2000K, then permanently switched to the Pennzoil "Ultra" Platinum going forward. just FWIW that oil and the FRAM Ultra Synthetic filter seems to be an outstanding (and relatively cheap "synthetic" combo) to run in that engine. the oil zealots on here even convinced me recently to switch to the 5winter-30 in the 5.7L and I have no complaints.

What are your typical winter temperatures in Arizona?

.

 

[turkeybird56]

so go with good conventional oil from start and change at 1k then at 4k and then at 5k go synthetic and done right?

Just my Opinion. I am not mechanic, so I would run this by any mechanic friends U have 1st.

After 1K change to good dino/filter
At 5K, go to full synthetic.

But yer ride, do as U seem fit.

On my 2019 RAM when new, I had changed at a lil over 1000, than at 5K, and now I havew OCI's at every 5K. But that is how I do it, and maybe a lil old school.

ADDED: AS MENTIONED: No rough hard riding until 500 miles, but I would do 1000 miles, and no towing till oil changed initially. Again IMHO.

 

[Riccochet]

So, if I understand your explanation, at the higher RPM, there is a minute increase in travel of the piston/connecting rod assembly (thousandths) created by inertia force referred to as "stretch".

This additional travel, combined with the additional heat created, assists in the seating of the rings.


I have never built an engine and I'm not disputing any of that information but I'm curious and have questions.

Has it been proven through testing that there's a distinct advantage to breaking in this area of the cylinder wall/seating the rings sooner than later or that delaying breaking in this area is counter-productive?

By maxing the RPM and peak speed of travel of the piston, early in the life of an engine, do I not create additional stresses and potential metal fatigue that would be less likely after a longer period of time?


In theory, at least in my mind, if one was to gradually work up to a maximum RPM state, there would be far less stress on all of the engine components before creating the additional stress of this stretch of the rotating components. What am I not considering?

.

Yes, there is stretch. Or, should I say, it's the space between bearing surfaces that is being manipulated in to movement of the entire rotating assembly. Main bearings, rod bearings, wrist pins, all have clearances for oiling. At higher RPM's those clearances are reduced as the outward and inward motion of the piston takes place. If you don't break in the upper cylinder it's not the end of the world. But over time a ring ridge will form where the ring travel ends. Like if you take apart a used engine with 100k on it there will be a ridge that's maybe .001 - .003 at the top of the cylinder wall. That doesn't sound like a lot, but it is if that engine had never been pushed hard, and then suddenly someone hammers down with it and now the rings are smashing in to those ridges. You can damage the rings or crack a piston at worst.

It's why you never rebuild an engine without, at minimum, having the cylinders bored.

 

[REDinAZ]

What are your typical winter temperatures in Arizona?

.

If we even have morning "frost" on the vehicles 1/2 a dozen times a winter season it's a lot. that's why all you Canucks come down here and hide out for the winters!

 

[mtofell]

Crate engines, at minimum, should have a 20 minute cam break in done before being put on the road.

For all I know, the Ram dealer that swapped my engine did this... that could explain the lack of instructions when handing me, the dumb consumer, the keys. IIRC, the varying RPMs and speeds are discussed in the manual but I think it's part of the rear-diff break-in but I wouldn't put it past the engineers to list it under rear-diff for simplicity and it's really for the engine... or maybe both?