New JBL Speakers question !!!!

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Reaper338

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Good morning ! I just got some JBL 2 way 6x9 GX9628 JBL 3 way for the rear GTO 939 and JBL 3 1/2 for the corner dash's GX328 , my question is No I need to run any resistors for any of these speakers ? do I need spacers ? if so what size , lastly do I need or should I get the 6x9 baffles ? all these are going to be connect to my factory 8.4 uconnect . thank you for the help.
 

Atcer2018

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The rear doors will accept most 6X9 without spacers. The front doors have less clearance and may need spacers. I’m not familiar with the model JBL you have so I can’t say for sure. You can cross reference the fit on Crutchfield’s website. Their fitment indicator will show if you’ll need spacers on the front doors. The JBL 3 1/2 will fit in the dash without modification. As for baffles, they won’t fit the front door openings. Not much room in the front doors. I didn’t use baffles, I elected to go with sound deadening mat inside the doors. You’d be surprised the difference a little dynomat on the inside door shell makes. I used the cheap Amazon dynomat knockoff. The 3 1/2 probably have a capacitor already attached to filter out low frequencies that would damage them. The Infinities I have in my dash had the caps and JBL and Infinity are made by the same manufacturer. As for resistors I’m assuming you are referring to the dash speakers as the OEM speakers are a different resistance than the doors so they don’t sound overly bright. Since the dash speakers are fairly easy to access I’d suggest trying them out without the resistors first and see how you like them. Personally I didn’t find the dash speakers to be overwhelming without resistors but some people do. It’s a personal preference. If you haven’t already I’d suggest using the aftermarket pigtail connectors so you don’t need to cut the factory connectors. Makes for a nice clean install without chopping up the factory wiring.
 

SitKneelBend

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The rear doors will accept most 6X9 without spacers. The front doors have less clearance and may need spacers. I’m not familiar with the model JBL you have so I can’t say for sure. You can cross reference the fit on Crutchfield’s website. Their fitment indicator will show if you’ll need spacers on the front doors. The JBL 3 1/2 will fit in the dash without modification. As for baffles, they won’t fit the front door openings. Not much room in the front doors. I didn’t use baffles, I elected to go with sound deadening mat inside the doors. You’d be surprised the difference a little dynomat on the inside door shell makes. I used the cheap Amazon dynomat knockoff. The 3 1/2 probably have a capacitor already attached to filter out low frequencies that would damage them. The Infinities I have in my dash had the caps and JBL and Infinity are made by the same manufacturer. As for resistors I’m assuming you are referring to the dash speakers as the OEM speakers are a different resistance than the doors so they don’t sound overly bright. Since the dash speakers are fairly easy to access I’d suggest trying them out without the resistors first and see how you like them. Personally I didn’t find the dash speakers to be overwhelming without resistors but some people do. It’s a personal preference. If you haven’t already I’d suggest using the aftermarket pigtail connectors so you don’t need to cut the factory connectors. Makes for a nice clean install without chopping up the factory wiring.
Got a link to the cheap stuff you mentioned?
 

Atcer2018

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You think that's enough for all four doors?
I used one an 3/4 boxes to do a four door crew cab including the rear wall of the cab behind the seats. It’s not full coverage though. It’s near impossible to get the matting inside the door shells in large pieces. I used a lot of 6X8 and smaller strips and applied it to areas I could reach while pressing it down firmly. Where I applied it is on the inside of the outer door panels if that makes sense. I removed the interior door panel trim and raised the windows. Then cut pieces I could pass through the inner door frame and apply to what would be the inside portion or the exterior sheet metal of the doors. Complete coverage isn’t necessary. If you do the rear of the cab don’t go crazy on the higher portions of the corrugated sheet metal or you won’t be able to get the carpeted fabric covering back on with the Christmas tree connectors. If you skip the rear of the cab you can get pretty good results with one box as it contains five sheets. I probably went a little overboard as with any sound deadening material you reach a point of diminishing returns.
 

SitKneelBend

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I used one an 3/4 boxes to do a four door crew cab including the rear wall of the cab behind the seats. It’s not full coverage though. It’s near impossible to get the matting inside the door shells in large pieces. I used a lot of 6X8 and smaller strips and applied it to areas I could reach while pressing it down firmly. Where I applied it is on the inside of the outer door panels if that makes sense. I removed the interior door panel trim and raised the windows. Then cut pieces I could pass through the inner door frame and apply to what would be the inside portion or the exterior sheet metal of the doors. Complete coverage isn’t necessary. If you do the rear of the cab don’t go crazy on the higher portions of the corrugated sheet metal or you won’t be able to get the carpeted fabric covering back on with the Christmas tree connectors. If you skip the rear of the cab you can get pretty good results with one box as it contains five sheets. I probably went a little overboard as with any sound deadening material you reach a point of diminishing returns.
Thanks, got another project now!
 
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