New truck to me drop project plans

[moregrip]

 

[Midnight Storm]

ok, all complete, lots of little details I can share to make things easier for future installers, more to follow! In the meantime:

Looks perfect! You must be happy about it

 

[Shayn]

ok, all complete, lots of little details I can share to make things easier for future installers, more to follow! In the meantime:

Beautiful truck! what size rim & tires are you running? do you notice any clearing issues?

 

[moregrip]

Looks perfect! You must be happy about it

Yes, so far so good! thank you!

 

[moregrip]

Beautiful truck! what size rim & tires are you running? do you notice any clearing issues?

305/45R22....not so far but haven't cycled the suspension a whole lot. Just got back from the alignment shop = lots of goodness!

 

[Shayn]

305/45R22....not so far but haven't cycled the suspension a whole lot. Just got back from the alignment shop = lots of goodness!

perfect... Keep me posted I am currently looking at different rims and offsets, since i am in canada i am limited to what i can order online due to massive shipping costs! the OE hellcat rims are +25 and the Top Line ones i can order from Quebec are +18 not sure if i can correct the offset with a smaller tire. I am new to this "Lowering" game and have been reading everything i can on here. ...
Also if you have any pictures from the install process that you could share as well i would appreciate anything/info.

cant wait to hear/see more about your process

 

[moregrip]

perfect... Keep me posted I am currently looking at different rims and offsets, since i am in canada i am limited to what i can order online due to massive shipping costs! the OE hellcat rims are +25 and the Top Line ones i can order from Quebec are +18 not sure if i can correct the offset with a smaller tire. I am new to this "Lowering" game and have been reading everything i can on here. ...
Also if you have any pictures from the install process that you could share as well i would appreciate anything/info.

cant wait to hear/see more about your process

I'll sit down later this week and post a more detailed process....gotta clean up the mess in the garage and get ready for the work week. Was a bit of a thrash as always!

 

[Shayn]

I'll sit down later this week and post a more detailed process....gotta clean up the mess in the garage and get ready for the work week. Was a bit of a thrash as always!

Ok thank you! I cant wait.

 

[moregrip]

So the front end aligned no problem. We cut the threaded portion of the tie rod assembly 1/2" vs the IHC recommended 3/8"; we then cut the recommended 3/8" off the female end of the tie rod....eyeballed the toe and drove to the alignment shop. 4 cuts total for that area. We used a DeWalt angle grinder with a 4 1/2" cut off wheel.

The kit came with 4 high quality thick washers taped together. I used these on the upper ball joints below the castle nuts. Without them the cotter pin would not engage the castle nut correctly.

We measured 3/8" exposed threads on the upper control arms per IHC recommendation, snugged up the jam nuts, no issues.

We found out the shocks are what control the distance the control arms/suspension droops, seemed to be fine, no issues there either.

For the sway bar end links we used MOOG replacement items that actually seemed better designed than the factory end links. As a bonus the studs on them are shorter than stock....still a long process to tighten them all the way down with only a combination wrench.

I don't really like the angle of the front sway bar so I may swap them out for the ford end links; TBD

Used standard NGLI 2 chassis lube on all zerk fittings.

that's about it for the front end, all in all, nothing terribly difficult just some patience and attention to detail.

 

[Shayn]

My kit just crossed the border today and will be here tomorrow! A little bit shocked when i was told the import charge! $856.65 CAD on top of the already $180 USD for shipping. Oh well guess we have to pay to play sometimes!

 

[moregrip]

For the rear end, We removed the differential completely. We bought a Forney $400 plasma cutter that ran off 110 to cut the required brackets off. It worked well, the thicker metal required a couple passes. We did only minor cleanup on the cuts, basically just to get rid of any sharp edges. For the drilling of the brackets we first center punch the hole then drilled out the holes in about eight steps, starting out with a small pilot hole and eventually working our way up through the full 7/16”. We bought a Milwaukee $250 right angle drill to do that job, I see no other reasonable way to do it right. Be sure to use only "made in the USA" bits as the China made stuff didn’t even make a dent, there was a clear difference between the two. We used Hanson bits. For the metal cups attached to the frame we used a DeWalt right angle grinder and a 4.5 inch cut off disk on the inside welds around the perimeter, then used a hammer gun w/chisel to separate the cup from the frame, then used the flap disc to smooth it all out. We disconnected the ABS sensors from the connectors on the frame and then wrapped them around the axle ends, we tied the brake calipers up with mechanics wire, we tied the driveshaft up with mechanics wire, we trimmed the gas tank heat shield next to the driveshaft balancer for clearance/rubbing. For the emergency brake cables on the passenger side we were no longer able to use the stock mounting bracket so we removed the bracket and used two large zip ties in its place. Lastly we use the motorcycle hydraulic floor jack to lift and remove the differential from underneath the truck, we use standard 6ton jackstands as far back on the level frame rail as we could before the frame swings up into the wheel well area; no issues. If you follow the IHC written directions and use the plasma cutter, use the right angle drill and the 4.5” grinder along with a stable lift mechanism for the rear axle I think you’re going to be OK.

 

[Wild one]

For the rear end, We removed the differential completely. We bought a Forney $400 plasma cutter that ran off 110 to cut the required brackets off. It worked well, the thicker metal required a couple passes. We did only minor cleanup on the cuts, basically just to get rid of any sharp edges. For the drilling of the brackets we first center punch the hole then drilled out the holes in about eight steps, starting out with a small pilot hole and eventually working our way up through the full 7/16”. We bought a Milwaukee $250 right angle drill to do that job, I see no other reasonable way to do it right. Be sure to use only made in the USA bits as the China made stuff didn’t even make a dent, there was a clear difference between the two. We used Hanson bits. For the metal cups attached to the frame we used a DeWalt right angle grinder and a 4.5 inch cut off desk on the inside welds around the perimeter, then used a hammer gun w/chisel to separate the cup from the frame, then used the flap disc to smooth it all out. We disconnected the ABS sensors from the connectors on the frame and then wrapped them around the axle ends, we tied the brake calipers up with mechanics wire, we tied the driveshaft up with mechanics wire, we trimmed the gas tank heat shield next to the driveshaft balancer for clearance/rubbing. For the emergency brake cables on the passenger side we were no longer able to use the stock mounting bracket so we removed the bracket and used two large zip ties in its place. Lastly we use the motorcycle hydraulic floor jack to lift and remove the differential from underneath the truck, we use standard 6ton jackstands as far back on the level frame rail as we could before the frame swings up into the wheel well area; no issues. If you follow the IHC written directions and use the plasma cutter, use the right angle drill and the 4.5” grinder along with a stable lift mechanism for the rear axle I think you’re going to be OK.

Good write up Moregrip.The relocation brackets are definitely easier to do with the housing out from under the truck.Did you run a couple tack welds on the brackets,it doesn't hurt to tack them in place,helps keeps the brackets from walking around.

 

[moregrip]

Good write up Moregrip.The relocation brackets are definitely easier to do with the housing out from under the truck.Did you run a couple tack welds on the brackets,it doesn't hurt to tack them in place,helps keeps the brackets from walking around.

Thank you! No tack welds for this install; that will have to be a new tool for another time!

 

[Wild one]

Thank you! No tack welds for this install; that will have to be a new tool for another time!

If you do decide to weld them,just put a couple small tacks on each bracket,that way they're still easy to grind off if you ever need to remove them for any reason.

 

[gbark80]

It's looking really good. Really making me think about tossing my cut BT kit and getting the IHC kit now. Will have to figure that funding out.

 

[moregrip]

oh, one last tip, its a good one, when installing the steel sleeves into the rubber shock bushing you will need a 12pt socket or equivalent sleeve that will fit "around" the OD of the rubber bushing "but" still make full circumference contact with the circular metal housing the bushing fits into.....otherwise its waaaay harder than it should be.

PVC, metal tubing, 12pt socket......anything that will allow you to drive in inner metal sleeve home without damaging the rubber bushing! We used a C-Clamp to apply somewhat even compressing pressure. Now you know!

 

[Shayn]

My kit just crossed the border today and will be here tomorrow! A little bit shocked when i was told the import charge! $856.65 CAD on top of the already $180 USD for shipping. Oh well guess we have to pay to play sometimes!

Ok so i just wanna update my last post! The lady at UPS i talked to on the phone was an idiot. Thankfully the import cost was $285 for all 3 boxes not $285 each plus tax! I feel much better about that price.

 

[Wild one]

Ok so i just wanna update my last post! The lady at UPS i talked to on the phone was an idiot. Thankfully the import cost was $285 for all 3 boxes not $285 each plus tax! I feel much better about that price.

What part of Canada are you in Shayn?

 

[Shayn]

What part of Canada are you in Shayn?

I am in ontario.

 

[Wild one]

I am in ontario.

That's a bit of a drive then,lol. I've done a couple of the relocation brackets,so was gonna offer up a hand if you were closer,i'm in Alberta,so that kind of rules out giving you a hand,lol.