Nitrous Install NEED HELP!! :(

[Silverbullet06]

Im about to install a ZEX dry nitro kit on my 06 hemi, and ive done a ton of research on whether or not to run a dry or wet kit, and its pretty much boiled down to the fact that a wet kit is safer with correct tuning. I understand that, but the kit that was given to me, can be ran wet or dry, because its a ZEX kit designed for an Acura Integra. Meaning the nitro control module (NCM) has two lines labeled 'Intake' and 'Regulator' aside from the obvious nitro nozzle line. If im not mistaken, the Integra setup has a direct line from the engines fuel pressure regulator, to the intake? So i would have to run a line from that regulator, to the NCM, where it would then be directed out of the hose labeled 'Intake' and would obviously lead straight to the intake in order to make it a wet system? Therefore, it would only open up, when the 12v switch is active for nos? Is this correct? If none of that is plausible, then would it be possible to simply not hook up those two lines, and just run the straight nos line into the intake making it a dry system? According to the discussion in this forum- Would a ZEX nitrous control unit be worth buying? - Honda-Tech , I could run it completely dry and not give 2 ***** about the other two fittings (Intake/Regulator)?? Is that true?!? If i were to do so, it would mean making sure that the engine is firing with the correct Air/Fuel ratio, which brings me to my last question. Is that Air/Fuel ratio going to be a significant issue if im only planning to push a 50 shot in my 5.7 Hemi? Its been my understanding that it cant really do much harm, given the fact that it wont require any 'retardation' tuning, and that after all, this system was designed for a little 4 banger. I know that the common response is going to be, 'Just go get the actual kit designed for a Hemi'.... But this is what i have to work with, and im hoping somebody can enlighten me with some helpful advice as how to make this setup work, all the while keeping safety for my motor in mind! Much appreciated -JM

 

[Bullitt5339]

Without the actual part numbers and some research, I can only give you my experience with running dry kits and the problem you may have with running one designed for another car.

All of this advice is coming from someone who runs 2 stages on his race car with 125 on the 1st stage and 250 on the 2nd stage. I have absolutely no experience running nitrous on a Ram though, so I can't offer any specific advice.

First of all, I'm not a fan of dry kits at all. The regulator hookup that you're talking about simply fakes the FPR into adding more fuel. How much more fuel? Who knows, especially on a kit that was designed for a different application, and there lies the problem. You really have little control over the fuel/air mixture and it's a guessing game. The nitrous controller wouldn't do you any good with the dry kit, you'd still be facing the same issues.

If you were to swap to a wet kit, even without tuning you can ensure it's safe by popping on a dyno with conservative jetting and then adjusting to maintain a safe A/F ratio by changing the fuel and nitrous jets independently. It's how we still tune carb'd cars for nitrous applications.

 

[charonblk07]

To start: DO NOT RUN A DRY KIT ON A HEMI!!!!!! Dry kits are designed for vehicles that use a mass flow sensor; we have an air density meter, our engine won't add the required fuel so all you'll do it lean it out and pop a piston upper ring land. Now, if you want to proceed knowing the risk, you can have a tune that adds more fuel completely independently off the nitrous and runs it very rich then you can run a dry system but it will be complete guess work on the proper amount of fuel and nitrous pill until you dial it in either on a dyno or on the street, but it should ne noted that it will be for THAT amount of nitrous, you will not be able to pill up or down after you get it dialed in. Again, a dry system is not designed for the hemi, especially with as fragile as our pistons are, so you do so at your own risk. For your kit, just plug off the fuel lines as they can't be used since the FPR is located in the fuel tank on the trucks.

 

[Silverbullet06]

Thanks for the info guys!! I honestly didnt even know Hemi's dont have a MAF, i didnt know air/speed density sensors were even a thing lol. yeah i dont think ill be installing it dry only, like you said, i dont wanna go ahead and do it knowing the risk. but i am still pondering the question of whether or not it would even make a difference if only pushing a 50 shot? how can i still use this nitro controller for the nos, yet rig it up safely as a wet system? Is it possible to hook up a separate regulator to the FPR, and have the power bridge off the power wire to the nitro control so they come on same time? does the hemi have direct feeds off the fuel rail? i was looking at it yesterday for a breif minute, and i see what looks like some removable caps on the rail. so couldnt I just hook up a separate system from there to get fuel in the intake by the flip of a switch?

Btw, heres the exact kit that i have. hoping to make it work. safely of course.

http://www.zex.com/zx/honda-acura-hyundai-mitsubishi-dry-nitrous-systemhtml/

 

[Lethal Hemi]

Yes a 50 shot makes a difference. It's easily worth .4-.5th and 4-5 mph gain in the 1/4 with traction.

Now for hooking it up I had a friend do mine when I sprayed. But I normally sprayed 100 on motor tune but 50 shot made a difference

 

[charonblk07]

In order to run your system as a wet system you will have to install a second solenoid, there's no getting around that fact unfortunately, they can be bought separately from places like N2Outlet, ZX, or places like that but you'd need a solenoid for the fuel. If you keep the shot small like a 50 shot then it's very realistic to run it as a dry system, just add some extra fuel to the tune but make sure you run an AFR gauge so you know where it's sitting during the runs.

Your best bet is to just sack up and buy the proper NMU from ZEX for $250 or you're going to be piecing together everything. You will also need to buy an EFI fuel rail adapter with a 1/8" npt port so you can tap into the fuel rail. Keep in mind our fuel rail runs a 58psi so barb fittings don't cut it.

 

[steermaster]

ZEX

This is the kit I have installed in my truck, easy install and I can help you over the phone if you need it. spend the extra 100 bucks and have a piece of mind!

 

[steermaster]

I was shooting 125 shot and its REALLY fun now im SC and will take it down to 75 becuase I have stock internals

 

[Silverbullet06]

In order to run your system as a wet system you will have to install a second solenoid, there's no getting around that fact unfortunately, they can be bought separately from places like N2Outlet, ZX, or places like that but you'd need a solenoid for the fuel. If you keep the shot small like a 50 shot then it's very realistic to run it as a dry system, just add some extra fuel to the tune but make sure you run an AFR gauge so you know where it's sitting during the runs.

Your best bet is to just sack up and buy the proper NMU from ZEX for $250 or you're going to be piecing together everything. You will also need to buy an EFI fuel rail adapter with a 1/8" npt port so you can tap into the fuel rail. Keep in mind our fuel rail runs a 58psi so barb fittings don't cut it.

Okay, so if i stay small, only 50 shot, dry setup, and run an afr gauge, it should still be safe for my motor? is it going to matter whether or not im using a narrowband, or wideband gauge?

 

[charonblk07]

Okay, so if i stay small, only 50 shot, dry setup, and run an afr gauge, it should still be safe for my motor? is it going to matter whether or not im using a narrowband, or wideband gauge?

It will make a difference between a wideband and narrowband, a wideband sensor gives you (depending on brand) 9-20AFR, a narrowband will give you 14-16AFR. Narrowband sensors are designed to tell the computer how to lean/enrich the mix to keep stoich (14.7) in closed loop, in open loop the narrowband sensors are not used and it defaults to preset fuel tables. The wideband is used to tell you what the AFR really is and with nitrous you want to keep it mid- to high 11s because of the extra heat created, especially if you're going to run dry where you're not adding any extra fuel. low 12s will be acceptable but you REALLY don't want to get higher.