No start

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Barryc1970

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2012
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I'm new here but I have a 2012 ram 1500 cranks but don't start fuel pumps working all fuses are good just all of a sudden it don't want to start I did remove the radio to see if my antenna was loose because a few days before my radio speakers quit working it was loose but I ended up breaking the end of the antenna wire now my truck don't start could the antenna wire cause this im out of clues on what to done next besides taking it to the dealership thanks
 

Nick_rp

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I'm new here but I have a 2012 ram 1500 cranks but don't start fuel pumps working all fuses are good just all of a sudden it don't want to start I did remove the radio to see if my antenna was loose because a few days before my radio speakers quit working it was loose but I ended up breaking the end of the antenna wire now my truck don't start could the antenna wire cause this im out of clues on what to done next besides taking it to the dealership thanks

Antenna wouldnt cause a crank, no start issue.

I compiled a checklist for this type of scenario. I haven't tried uploading a PDF here before so i hope it works.

To complete the list start to finish, with proper tools could possibly take less than an hour
 

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Nick_rp

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Dosnt seem like it worked. So ill just copy and paste

I didnt write it myself. I spent a few hours on the internet copying write ups from various sources but its worked like a charm everytime ive used it

Crank, No Start troubleshooting



Fuel

Pressure

Method 1: turn the key and listen for a whirring sound somewhere near the rear of the vehicle. That’s the fuel pump priming.

If you don’t hear anything, that’s okay, continue to next method

Method 2: some cars will have a Schrader valve on/near the fuel rail. Give it a push and fuel should squirt out. If you don’t have a Schrader valve then look for the banjo bolt connecting the fuel line to the fuel rail. Crack the bolt and turn the key, fuel should squirt out.


If both methods fail, check fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, fuel filter etc


Injectors

Place the tip of a long screw driver on the outside of an injector and place your ear to the handle. Have a friend crank the engine and your listening for rhythmic tapping. Do this for each injector


If no tapping is heard on all injector check TPS. Unplug in and try to start engine.

If no tapping or stuttering is heard on a single injector, swap it out with a good one and see if the problem follows.


Air


Check air filter. Clean/replace if necessary.

Check for obstructions in the intake hose

Clean MAF sensor probe. Unplug attempt to start car.

Unplug MAP sensor and attempt to start car.


Spark


Remove spark plug from head. Re attach plug wire and hold the threaded end of the spark plug against the engine block or head and crank the engine. You should see a consistent blue spark, do this for each.


If spark is sporadic or non existent, swap with a known good spark plug and try again. If issue remains with that plug wire, further diagnosis of coil required.


Compression


This is where you will need the compression tester. You can rent one from an auto parts store or buy one. You can find an cheap one for $30ish dollars at HF.


Remove all spark plugs and screw in tester to a spark plug port. Crank the engine with the accelerator floored, that will shut off the injectors in most vehicles. Crank at least 4 times and check the gauge. At the very least you should have 90 psi. Do the same for each cylinder.


If a cylinder is found to have less than 90 psi, add a little oil directly into spark plug port and test again. If it raises psi, you have bad rings, if not, probably stuck valve, crack in the casting or head gasket.


Timing


This is where most vehicles differ whether it uses chain, belt, has overhead cam etc. These directions will be generic, but the essence will be the same for most vehicles.


Remove timing cover. Check for loose, damaged belt/chain.


Check for time. Set cylinder 1 to TDC. This can be achieved by turning the crank shaft and looking for markings that line up near the crank shaft pulley.


Now look at the cam shaft gear(s) you should see markings engraved into the gears that line up with markings near the circumference of the gear, most like on the block or head.


If the markings do not line up, loosen the belt and pull it away from the gear, turn the cam shaft till the markings line up and reinstall belt.


If after all these steps have been completed and you still don’t have at least an idea of what’s going on, then it’s time to either start investing in testing equipment for accurate readings and start over with attention directed towards sensors or seek professional help.
 
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Barryc1970

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Fuel pump is working the truck will fire up if I spray starting fluid in throttle body but dies a few secs later is there a security that I might of tripped somehow that would shut off the injectors
 

Burla

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TIPM is one usual suspect here, ignition could be another.

 

Nick_rp

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Asking for codes should of been my first response. I just dove straight into testing
 
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RamCares

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I'm new here but I have a 2012 ram 1500 cranks but don't start fuel pumps working all fuses are good just all of a sudden it don't want to start I did remove the radio to see if my antenna was loose because a few days before my radio speakers quit working it was loose but I ended up breaking the end of the antenna wire now my truck don't start could the antenna wire cause this im out of clues on what to done next besides taking it to the dealership thanks
Hi there, we certainly are sorry to hear that you are facing this concern with your truck! If you are not able to determine a solution based on suggestions from fellow forum members and you decide to address this with your Ram dealer, please be sure to follow up with us via private message. We would be more than willing to escalate your situation to a specialist who can work alongside you and your dealer while your truck is in service.

Kathryn
Ram Cares
 
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Barryc1970

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Had a friend of mine had his buddy stop over with his high dollar scanner and is also a mechanic ruled out the fuel system bug said it has 2 faults it could be but didn't have time to stay and help anymore the codes are: P0688 & P0685
 

Burla

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Had a friend of mine had his buddy stop over with his high dollar scanner and is also a mechanic ruled out the fuel system bug said it has 2 faults it could be but didn't have time to stay and help anymore the codes are: P0688 & P0685

Pretty much exactly what I said, just have to find which one, relay or ignition. Relays are a known issue, I might rule that out first. Watch that video I posted, you can learn to bypass or test your relay. Research TIPM>
 

Burla

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might not help, but if you aren't doing anything, try resetting pcm.
 
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