Noob needs help 6.4L possible lifter and cam

[Ken226]

Thanks guys for all the help. I may call the machine shop to see what they would charge to take this stud out but I also may try and take it out by welding, just depends on how comfortable I feel after asking these questions. Sorry for beating this to death. If the puddle reaches the threads will it melt the threads, first of all I should mention that I’m using flux core, I don’t have gas. Can I do this with flux core? Do I basically build it up with tack welds? Trying not to let the puddle reach the sides? Clean up the tack before tacking again? Or just keep a puddle and keep adding to it.

The puddle is going to reach the sides. You won't be able to avoid that.

The steel in the puddle will harden the instant it touches the aluminum. At 1/8" deep, only the first thread or two will be exposed to weld heat, and even then the damage will be minimal.


BUT, I would recommend you find scrap piece of aluminum, drill a hole in it, then drop a wood screw or something down into it and practice. Weld the hole full, weld on the nut, the see how it comes out.

Not because it's hard, or because you need practice, but so you will know what to expect and won't be so sketched out by your first time being on an expensive part.

Practice, then decide if you want to take it to a machine shop.

I've only ever done it with argon/co2 mix and my Lincoln PowerMig 252

 

[BurtShaver]

The puddle is going to reach the sides. You won't be able to avoid that.

The steel in the puddle will harden the instant it touches the aluminum. At 1/8" deep, only the first thread or two will be exposed to weld heat, and even then the damage will be minimal.


BUT, I would recommend you find scrap piece of aluminum, drill a hole in it, then drop a wood screw or something down into it and practice. Weld the hole full, weld on the nut, the see how it comes out.

Not because it's hard, or because you need practice, but so you will know what to expect and won't be so sketched out by your first time being on an expensive part.

Practice, then decide if you want to take it to a machine shop.

I've only ever done it with argon/co2 mix and my Lincoln PowerMig 252

Thank you,

 

[Wild one]

I've even heard of guys doing it with a stick welder,lol

 

[BurtShaver]

The Remflex 6022 gaskets came in today, the gasket came with these blemishes, is that an issue?

 

[BurtShaver]

Got that broken stud out, built up the stud on setting 1.5C on the mig pak 140, that went really well, had trouble welding where I had built up to the washer. My son in law said it was because I had bought stainless washer.

 

[Ken226]

View attachment 560051Got that broken stud out, built up the stud on setting 1.5C on the mig pak 140, that went really well, had trouble welding where I had built up to the washer. My son in law said it was because I had bought stainless washer.

Yea, your son in law is correct. You wont get good results trying to weld stainless with wire thats made for carbon steel. It will work, and stick, but isn't pretty. Stainless is different. I believe there are some stainless specific flux core wires. I've used stainless mig wire with pure argon and had decent results, but for stainless, aluminum or titanium I pretty my always use my tig welder.

My go-to for this type of job is er70s-6 wire shielded with a mix of 75% argon and 25% co2.

 

[BurtShaver]

Yea, your son in law is correct.

Stainless is different. I believe there are some stainless specific flux core wires. I've used stainless mig wire with pure argon and had decent results, but for stainless, aluminum or titanium I pretty my always use my tig welder.

thank you, we are just discussing this here at our house now, I told him that he was right and that I knew he was and my wife is razing me saying yeah yeah he knew you were right Blake but he had to ask someone else, lol. Anyways, once we got built up maybe a 1/4” past the surface we were able to turn it out with the vice grips

 

[Wild one]

View attachment 559834View attachment 559835View attachment 559836The Remflex 6022 gaskets came in today, the gasket came with these blemishes, is that an issue?

Nothing to worry about,just don't bend them,as they don't take kindly to being flexed.They'll also make your hands dirty when you handle them,it's nothing to worry about either,just a by product of a graphite gasket

 

[BurtShaver]

Nothing to worry about,just don't bend them,as they don't take kindly to being flexed.They'll also make your hands dirty when you handle them,it's nothing to worry about either,just a by product of a graphite gasket

That’s good to hear, Thank you Rick

 

[BurtShaver]

I was going to take these heads to be surfaced but they were straight as an arrow, used my straight edge and a light, couldn’t even see a glow behind the straight edge so… this right bank head had that tiny tiny scratch so I found a piece of glass big enough, used some 400 wet/dry then 800 with WD-40 as lube. Just going to pick up my new manifold bolts now. Going to check the manifolds for flatness and level them up if needed, get everything cleaned up again super clean and first warm day get started at finally putting this back together. I am feeling really good about this project now that I will have the new manifold gaskets Remflex and that tiny imperfection of a scratch is gone out of the head. Still going to be slow going since the snowmobile trails have opened up here about 3 days ago so going to try and get a few hours of riding in here and there. Ok, Thanks guys. Have a good day

 

[BurtShaver]

Quick question, I’ve seen lots of people say to put silver anti seize on the new exhaust manifold bolts. The new bolts come with red picture already applied to them. Anti seize on them or no?

 

[mdc1990zr1]

Quick question, I’ve seen lots of people say to put silver anti seize on the new exhaust manifold bolts. The new bolts come with red picture already applied to them. Anti seize on them or no ?

Quick question, I’ve seen lots of people say to put silver anti seize on the new exhaust manifold bolts. The new bolts come with red picture already applied to them. Anti seize on them or no?

no on the antiseize

 

[BurtShaver]

No antiseize then, thank you

 

[BurtShaver]

Might be hard to see from the pictures but when I set the right bank exhaust manifold on the head with no gasket I can slip a .025” feeler gauge under each end of the manifold. Should I try and flatten this out some or bolt it on?

 

[dieselscout80]

View attachment 560148View attachment 560149
Might be hard to see from the pictures but when I set the right bank exhaust manifold on the head with no gasket I can slip a .025” feeler gauge under each end of the manifold. Should I try and flatten this out some or bolt it on?

I think I would flatten them.

 

[BurtShaver]

I think I would flatten them.

Ok, I’ve been setting up to flatten them, just wasn’t sure if I needed to with these remflex graphite gaskets or not

 

[Wild one]

Ok, I’ve been setting up to flatten them, just wasn’t sure if I needed to with these remflex graphite gaskets or not

The gaskets will easily absorb a 0.025 differance,but if you're already set up to sand them flat it sure won't hurt

 

[BurtShaver]

This is working but it will take a long long time to sand the manifolds flat with 400 grit and that’s the coarsest I have, would prefer about 200 or so grit. I’m just going to bolt this on

 

[Wild one]

View attachment 560157View attachment 560158This is working but it will take a long long time to sand the manifolds flat with 400 grit and that’s the coarsest I have, would prefer about 200 or so grit. I’m just going to bolt this on

Remember you only need 20 lb-ft on the bolts,don't go cranking them down with a 1/2" torque wrench,most aren't all that accurate at that torque spec,use an inch pound torque wrench if you have one,if not then just go a little past snug with a 3/8" drive ratchet

 

[BurtShaver]

Remember you only need 20 lb-ft on the bolts,don't go cranking them down with a 1/2" torque wrench,most aren't all that accurate at that torque spec,use an inch pound torque wrench if you have one,if not then just go a little past snug with a 3/8" drive ratchet

I’ve got 4 torque wrenches here, 1/4” drive up to 1/2” my 1/4” drive one is over where the truck is so I’m going to use a 3/8@ drive torque wrench that has a scale of 10 to 100 pounds. Going to torque it in about 3 stages from the inside out, say just snug, 10 pounds and then 15 and then 20. Ok 4 stages.