Normal for ball joints to go out after @ 70k miles?

[rklus16]

I noticed my driver's side rear tire had some uneven wear so I took it to my local tire shop for an alignment. I was told the ball joints were to loose for them to do the alignment. Not unsafe to drive but needed to be replaced soon. Just wondered if this was a "normal"? Truck is completely stock.

Before buying this truck I had read of the many front-end issues plaguing the previous generation trucks but sounded like Ram stepped up their game with the 4th gens. I was hoping to get well over 100k before even having to worry about front-end issues.

I bought the truck with 45k miles. Tow occasionally but nothing super heavy. We just upgraded from a travel trailer to a 10k lbs gvwr fifth wheel. So I don't feel this is a lot of stress on it.

Aftermarket warranty should pay for it but I have to take it back to the dealership I bought it from. Just a little concerning. I felt with the weight of the diesel that the front-end components are the weakest link.

I'm going to request moogs to be installed.

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[muddy12]

Disregard, didn’t notice this was the HD section.


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[Ribtipram]

Well while we are here my 14 1500 fronts went bad around 60k

 

[rklus16]

Update:
I took the truck in to the dealer today to get it inspected...They came back to me asking exactly why I was at the dealership and I explained what I was told by the local tire shop that the ball joints were to loose and wouldn't complete the alignment for me. The dealership reported that the lower ball joints had no movement and the upper left and right were 0.004" and 0.006". Well within the spec of 0.060". They completed the alignment for me and took my money. Hopefully this fixes the tire wear.


This local tire shop I have always felt was straight forward with us. So I'm not sure where they figure the ball joints were to loose.

 

[muddy12]

What kind of wear were you seeing?
Ball joint and alignment usually cause wear on the front tires, not the rear.


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[rklus16]

What kind of wear were you seeing?
Ball joint and alignment usually cause wear on the front tires, not the rear.


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Driver's side rear tire has more wear on the outside edge than the inside. Dealer said rear tires were all perfectly in spec as alignment goes. They weren't sure why the rear would be wearing like that. Front toe was off just a bit. Basically said to monitor the wear.

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[crazy jerry]

tire shops generally dont know their a$$ from their elbow. the bottom joint is a ball. the top is basically just a locating pin. nothing should be even close to wore out at 70k highway miles. moog is junk. emf or dynatrac are the best your money can buy

 

[rklus16]

Just irritates me that they'd lie that blatantly. I would understand if the dealership would have came back and said there was some slop but within spec but to be told basically no movement is infuriating.

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[RodeoRam]

@rklus16, Sears told me the same thing on my 2001 the first time I put new tires on it. Just like you, I took it to the dealership, and they showed me that the front end was still within specs. My ball joints lasted about 80k more miles.

I think it is more of a case of the alignment guy not wanting to do the job. I saw our alignment guys when I worked in the Wal-Mart shop years ago turn down vehicles for the most minor things because some vehicles take longer or are more difficult than others and lowers their commission/time ratio.

 

[JD Mark]

Next time you go, they're going to tell you your muffler bearings need to be replaced.

And you need to use nitrogen in your tires.

Should also switch from summer air to winter air.

If a ball joint was so bad that it was causing a rear tire to wear unevenly, you wouldn't be able to drive up the road.

 

[rklus16]

Haha they got me with needing blinker fluid. That'll be the last time. I never knew there was a difference between summer air and winter air. That could explain the drop in mpg during the winter. [emoji1787][emoji1787][emoji1787] Just kidding.

I try and do all the basic maintenance items myself. When it comes to suspension I'd rather someone else deal with it.

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[warwagon98xj]

Most shops don’t check spec or with an indicator, the find a little movement and see an 800$ ball joint job and that’s it


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[Dusty]

Update:
I took the truck in to the dealer today to get it inspected...They came back to me asking exactly why I was at the dealership and I explained what I was told by the local tire shop that the ball joints were to loose and wouldn't complete the alignment for me. The dealership reported that the lower ball joints had no movement and the upper left and right were 0.004" and 0.006". Well within the spec of 0.060". They completed the alignment for me and took my money. Hopefully this fixes the tire wear.


This local tire shop I have always felt was straight forward with us. So I'm not sure where they figure the ball joints were to loose.

I would not recommend muffler and tire shops. I have a number of personal experiences with them changing parts that were not necessary. In one case the state police were involved.

They put a lot of pressure on the shop management to meet sales quotas.

Regards,
Dusty
2019 Ram DT 1500 Silver Billet Laramie, Quad Cab, 2WD, 5.7 Hemi, 8HP75, 3.21 axle, 33 gallon fuel tank, 18 inch wheels. Build date: 17 April 2018. Now at 021303 miles.

 

[Rowdy Ram]

Driver's side rear tire has more wear on the outside edge than the inside. Dealer said rear tires were all perfectly in spec as alignment goes. They weren't sure why the rear would be wearing like that. Front toe was off just a bit. Basically said to monitor the wear.

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mine is the same..guy asked me what did i hit..nothing i think is was like .03 out..

 

[mtnrider]

Update:
I took the truck in to the dealer today to get it inspected...They came back to me asking exactly why I was at the dealership and I explained what I was told by the local tire shop that the ball joints were to loose and wouldn't complete the alignment for me. The dealership reported that the lower ball joints had no movement and the upper left and right were 0.004" and 0.006". Well within the spec of 0.060". They completed the alignment for me and took my money. Hopefully this fixes the tire wear.


This local tire shop I have always felt was straight forward with us. So I'm not sure where they figure the ball joints were to loose.

Yeah, the Ram "tolerance" (cough cough) is extreme. I went through the same thing with them. 0.060 is ridiculous, your wheel would be so loose by then it would be un-drivable. I'm getting ready to swap mine out soon. Have done it several times on my gen 3. It's no fun but doable.

If you drive on dirt, gravel or unimproved roads it takes no time at all to wear out ball joints on these RM HD trucks. It's one of their weak points. On my gen 3 I was lucky to get 20K out of them.

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[JD Mark]

If you drive on dirt, gravel or unimproved roads it takes no time at all to wear out ball joints on these RM HD trucks. It's one of their weak points.

In the fine state of Michigan, we have paved roads that some would call unimproved.

Add to that a 1,000# plow hanging off the front for 4 months plus the Cummins and a Buckstop bumper, and 116,000 miles and I have yet to have any problems with my ball joints.

I had far more issues with my Furds than my RAMs.

 

[mtnrider]

In the fine state of Michigan, we have paved roads that some would call unimproved.

Add to that a 1,000# plow hanging off the front for 4 months plus the Cummins and a Buckstop bumper, and 116,000 miles and I have yet to have any problems with my ball joints.

I had far more issues with my Furds than my RAMs.

Drive on washboard dirt roads and they will be toast in no time. Pushing snow around isn't the fast up and down jaring that dirt roads cause.

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[rklus16]

Drive on washboard dirt roads and they will be toast in no time. Pushing snow around isn't the fast up and down jaring that dirt roads cause.

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I've heard the 3rd gens eat ball joints no matter what you drive on. I thought the 4th gens were supposed to be beefed up. The whole frontend in general better overall.

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[mtnrider]

I've heard the 3rd gens eat ball joints no matter what you drive on. I thought the 4th gens were supposed to be beefed up. The whole frontend in general better overall.

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It's definitely better no doubt but they still don't like certain types of road conditions or use. Hence why companies like Carli, Dynatrac, and EMF have invested in making a better designed ball joint. While the new stock design is beefier it still uses a polymer "cup' inside and it doesn't take much pounding (washboard bumps) to start getting play in them

Most pavement trucks may never need to replace them but if you are driving dirt roads or washboard type bumps they will go sooner then later.

Here is a good video show the stock type ball joints and the issues with them..


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[JD Mark]

Drive on washboard dirt roads and they will be toast in no time.

You've never been in Michigan, have you?