Normal for ball joints to go out after @ 70k miles?

[mtnrider]

You've never been in Michigan, have you?

Yes I have. Glad your ball joints are fine, doesn't change the fact that other people are having failures with them.

 

[JD Mark]

Yes I have. Glad your ball joints are fine, doesn't change the fact that other people are having failures with them.

Never said it did.

 

[Eclipse Aries]

I just put in new eibach front struts on the OEM coils. while I had everything apart I went ahead and put in new lower ball joints with 77k on the clock of my 2014. Went with some MOOG "problem solvers" from rockauto. They have done some interesting things redesigning the boot. Time will tell if its engineered better or just looks different. I can't say how it compares to new stock as I've only owned it since 60k, but it is light years better then before the service. The job wasn't terrible. Only needed the ball joint press and 36mm socket to get the axel off to get access to the lower ball. There was some grease leakage out of the old boots and I could move them around with one thumb. The new ones were considerably stiffer requiring both hands to pivot the stud around. Roads here are bordering on 3rd world. Especially the stretch of I-40 from Refinery to Blue Water that I drove twice a week for work.

 

[mtnrider]

I just put in new eibach front struts on the OEM coils. while I had everything apart I went ahead and put in new lower ball joints with 77k on the clock of my 2014. Went with some MOOG "problem solvers" from rockauto. They have done some interesting things redesigning the boot. Time will tell if its engineered better or just looks different. I can't say how it compares to new stock as I've only owned it since 60k, but it is light years better then before the service. The job wasn't terrible. Only needed the ball joint press and 36mm socket to get the axel off to get access to the lower ball. There was some grease leakage out of the old boots and I could move them around with one thumb. The new ones were considerably stiffer requiring both hands to pivot the stud around. Roads here are bordering on 3rd world. Especially the stretch of I-40 from Refinery to Blue Water that I drove twice a week for work.

We are talking HD truck ball joints here but glad you got yours sorted out!

I don't recommend the Moogs on the HD trucks. They didn't last long in my 3rd gen. While I'm on the subject, if anyone is replacing HD ball joints avoid the "splined" type. They can cause you issues if you ever have to replace them down the road. They score the wall where they press in.


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[BTGREEN]

In the fine state of Michigan, we have paved roads that some would call unimproved.

Add to that a 1,000# plow hanging off the front for 4 months plus the Cummins and a Buckstop bumper, and 116,000 miles and I have yet to have any problems with my ball joints.

I had far more issues with my Furds than my RAMs.

I think anecdotal evidence is worthless, It's better to look at the engineered design.

Dana uses both joints to support the load vs the lower only in the RAM. Do the math, if both are the same size, two supporting the load last longer than the one doing it.

My anecdotal experience agrees with physics, the Danas had a much longer OEM joint lifespan than the AAM crap under the Rams, but we have mostly unmaintained dirt/rock roads with miles of washboard here the trucks do service on.

 

[BTGREEN]

We are talking HD truck ball joints here but glad you got yours sorted out!

I don't recommend the Moogs on the HD trucks. They didn't last long in my 3rd gen. While I'm on the subject, if anyone is replacing HD ball joints avoid the "splined" type. They can cause you issues if you ever have to replace them down the road. They score the wall where they press in.


.

Yeah the Moogs haven't been too good as of late. Carli or Dynatrac make ball joints that can actually make these axles decent. Yes, I agree, since the AAM stupidly has the joint pressed in the "C" of the axle, if you damage it, it is not easily fixable. Splined joints ream that inner c out. I'd never suggest using them.

 

[JD Mark]

I think anecdotal evidence is worthless, It's better to look at the engineered design.

Dana uses both joints to support the load vs the lower only in the RAM. Do the math, if both are the same size, two supporting the load last longer than the one doing it.

My anecdotal experience agrees with physics, the Danas had a much longer OEM joint lifespan than the AAM crap under the Rams, but we have mostly unmaintained dirt/rock roads with miles of washboard here the trucks do service on.

ALrighty then...I'm comparing it to my former Ford fleet, in which I had a set warranted at 17K on a 550, and then several other sets amongst the 6 Fords I owned...350s, 450s, and 550s.

At this point, I am very happy with my RAM front ends, rear ends and middles.

 

[crazy jerry]

not to get to far off track but rather clear some things up. yes dana uses two ball joints where aam has just one. the aam lower ball joint and C, especially the lower knuckle, are unmistakenly larger than danas. because like previously stated, only the lower joint carries the load on aam. where as the load is divided between joints on the dana. if a single large joint was designed correctly for the application, it should work just as well as two smaller joints

about the housing and sectional tube. it can be quit strong with proper design. the tube itself has 3.8" od, and plenty of gussetting. i would be very suprised if the dana tubes are even 3.5" od, with just standard gusseting

we can compare the new ford to new ram , every which way from sunday , and im taking ram every time

 

[crazy jerry]

forgot to mention to anyone crying about ball joints. sometimes oe parts are decent qaulity, sometimes theyre not. my only advice, pony up $800 for good joints or use all that other junk and come back crying in another 70k miles