Not even cranking, soon replaced everything from bumper to bumper

[Christian97]

Hello! new on this forum and i dire need of tips and ideas.

i got a Ram 1500 2008 5.7hemi with about 111k miles with some issues,

The ram got sitting for some months while i had a diffrent truck (brand new mid-size nissan, was junk, got returned)

when i then got back to it i noticed it lacked some power
then it starts to shift wierdly and diffrent each time i use it.

then i changed filters and fluids in the transmission,
truck runs fine when it has been sitting inside a hot garage
but when parking outside it shifts wierdly and headlights are alot weaker,

it then starts to stall out at intersections so i replace all 3 transmission sensors, cam and crank sensor.
it still stalls out and shifts wierdly, tried to get the transmission to work temp to se if it gets any better but only to trow a "engine random missfire" code and it keeps trowing that code when the engine tries to rev over 4k.

after doing some more testing i go to start it up but when turning the key it just click in some relay and doesnt even crank, i clean the 3 grounds in the engine bay and it fires up.

give it another test run only to notice the altenator is almost glowing so i order both a generator and get a new battery, swap those still wont crank.

order 2 new TIPMs tries both wont crank, starter and solenoid works fine when "hotwireing" the starter cable from the TIPM it cranks the engine but even with the ignition on it wont start.

tried putting it in drive to see if its the neutral safety switch but then there is no "click" when turning the key.

this started about 6 months ago and since im in sweden i there isnt a dealership to take it to

anyone got any clue where to continue my search? any help is appreciated and thanks in advance!

 

[Hanover Fiste]

A 12-year old truck with only 11k miles? Seems like it was hardly driven. Is the "Check Engine" light on?

Regardless, there is a way to check for any trouble codes. This is for a 2005, so I don't know if it'll work for a 2008, but it's worth a try:

Insert key into ignition. Turn key to "run" then "off" three times rapidly. At the end, any trouble codes (P codes) will show up on the dashboard. If there are any codes, then an internet search will tell you what the problem is.

There is another test as well; it's called the "Instrument Cluster Actuator" test. Again, this is for a 2005, but still many work for a 2008. If there are any codes displayed, let me know and I'll look them up for you.

From my service manual:


ACTUATOR TEST

The instrument cluster actuator test will put the instrument cluster into its self-diagnostic mode. In this mode the

instrument cluster can perform a self-diagnostic test that will confirm that the instrument cluster circuitry, the gauges,

and the indicators are capable of operating as designed. During the actuator test the instrument cluster circuitry will

position each of the gauge needles at various calibration points, illuminate all of the segments in the Vacuum Fluorescent

Display (VFD) units, turn all of the indicators on and off again, display any Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC)

information, and display the number of ignition key cycles that have occurred since the DTC was detected. It is

suggested that a note pad and pencil be used to write down any fault information that is displayed during the test

for reference.

Successful completion of the actuator test will confirm that the instrument cluster is operational. However, there may

still be a problem with the PCI data bus, the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), the Engine Control Module (ECM),

the Front Control Module (FCM), the Transmission Control Module (TCM), the Transfer Case Control Module

(TCCM), the Airbag Control Module (ACM), the Controller Anti-lock Brake (CAB), or the hard wired inputs to one of

these electronic control modules. Use a diagnostic scan tool to diagnose these components. Refer to the appropriate

diagnostic information.

1. Begin the test with the ignition switch in the Off position.

2. Depress the odometer/trip odometer switch button.

3. While still holding the odometer/trip odometer switch button depressed, turn the ignition switch to the On position,

but do not start the engine.

4. Release the odometer/trip odometer switch button.

5. The instrument cluster will simultaneously begin to illuminate all of the operational segments in both VFD units

and perform a bulb check of each operational LED indicator. The VFD segments and LED indicators remain

illuminated as each gauge needle is swept to several calibration points and back. If a VFD segment or an LED

indicator fails to illuminate, or if a gauge needle fails to sweep through the calibration points and back during this

test, the instrument cluster must be replaced. Following these tests, the actuator test will proceed as described

in Step 6.

6. The text “C Code” is displayed in the odometer VFD for about three seconds. If there is no stored fault information,

the display will show two pairs of zeroes in the format “00” “00”, which indicate that the display of fault

information is done. If there is stored fault information, two sets of two-digit alpha and alpha-numeric fault codes

will appear in the odometer display for a three second interval. The first pair of digits represents a Diagnostic

Trouble Code (DTC), or fault code for the instrument cluster. The second pair of digits is a counter for the number

of ignition key cycles that have occurred since the displayed DTC was set. The instrument cluster will continue

to display additional sets of two pairs of digits at three second intervals until all of the stored codes have

been displayed, which is again signaled by a code of “00” “00”. Refer to the Instrument Cluster Failure Message

table for a description of each fault code that the instrument cluster displays. If an instrument cluster fault is

displayed, use a diagnostic scan tool to diagnose the problem. Refer to the appropriate diagnostic information.

 

[Christian97]

yeah wrote that wrong its not 11k, its 111k miles, en engine light is on but its not trowing any codes according to both my Odb readers but havent tester the key thing and not the cluster test eather will try that tomorrom asap and report back

 

[Snake15eyes1998]

You wrote 111k in your first post. Not 11k. It sounds like an electrical issue. After you do what Hanover says. Let us know what you come up with. A few things I would like to know. How long was your truck actually sitting for, you said 6 months. Was it 6 months or longer. Where was it sitting ? Outside, a garage?. You said you replaced the battery and alternate. It stalls out and dies. Now it doesn't even start. I'm wondering. Behind the throttle body, the cover. Have you pulled that out to see if any critters made a nest back their? Maybe chewed up your wiring loom. I say this because. My AC wouldn't work, tried everything, and I finally took it to the dealer. They pulled the wiring loom that runs from the TIPM to the PCM, and it was chewed pretty good. I bought my truck from my dad. He let it sit on the side of his house in CT for about 4-6 months. Squirrels made a nest in the back. But it definitely sounds like an electrical issue somewhere.