To buy or not to uy

[Hangard]

So I am thinking of adding another RAM to the stable.
Background: I got my current daily driver 2004 2500HD home on the back of a trailer. Transmission was broken, etc. I am not afraid of fixing, but this next potential RAM 1500 leaves me undecided.

This 2013 1500 Quad cab 4X4 (tradesman?) with 3.6 and some codes - P06DD and P0128.

This is a rather abused truck. Awful dirty inside, broken windshield, broken taillights, lamp out, only one key, etc. Most of 200K on the clock. 'needs oil change' lights up on info panel on dash, - still it runs, stops, idles. But the CEL. . .

Engine oil is low. on third try I got the stick in far enough to get a single drop of mighty black oil on the tip, so yeah seems that could set that code. Oil pressure guage is stock in dash and reads about half a gauge even after a 10 mile or so drive.

Coolant level, I now read of a surge tank dipstick, but didn't notice one when by the truck. I see no coolant in radiator, but the gauge for temp slowly came to just under half gauge and provided heat with the fan on, so it just seems low on coolant, but maybe not critically low.

My greatest concern is the oil code. That seems some kinda design for the pump and related controls - I'm impressed. I read that low oil, dirty oil, even wrong filter will set this code. Knowing you cannot really diagnose this with this little info, this is my question. Does this seem normal for this code to set with low and dirty oil? What kind of probability that a proper oil/filter change and coolant flush will care for these codes? Am I better to move on without this or would this be a worthy gamble? I really don't want to put a new engine in, so if it is highly likey that the code set due to bearing wear, etc then I would pass, but if it is more likely to be a matter of improper maintenance then I might be inclined to buy it.

I look forward to any insights, knowing there are some very informed folks here - yeah I finally registered, but been lurking for sometime.

 

[EdGs]

IMHO, I would hard pass on this one.

Sounds like she wasn't taken care of very well at all. If the oil has been abused this badly, you can pretty much guarantee that trans hasn't been serviced, differentials probably haven't either, and Lord knows the condition of the cooling system as well.

Unless it is virtually free, and you realized you likely will be doing ALOT of work to it, just not worth it to me.

 

[Hangard]

IMHO, I would hard pass on this one.

Sounds like she wasn't taken care of very well at all. If the oil has been abused this badly, you can pretty much guarantee that trans hasn't been serviced, differentials probably haven't either, and Lord knows the condition of the cooling system as well.

Unless it is virtually free, and you realized you likely will be doing ALOT of work to it, just not worth it to me.

Thank you for the insights. The differentials look dry, but I agree that they likey have original fluid, along with the transmission fluid and filter. It did shift very smooth and 4X4 went in and out nice. a little bit of a click into 4 - low, but nothing unexpected.

Still, it is indeed neglected and not maintained.

 

[Docwagon1776]

Is it priced at scrap level?

 

[CanRebel]

Thank you for the insights. The differentials look dry, but I agree that they likey have original fluid, along with the transmission fluid and filter. It did shift very smooth and 4X4 went in and out nice. a little bit of a click into 4 - low, but nothing unexpected.

Still, it is indeed neglected and not maintained.

Is it free or under $1000?

 

[Hangard]

Hey CanRebel, its closer to $3000. I guess that's what attracted my attention, but then the codes. . .

Not being familiar with the 3.6 I felt some advice was in order. Thank you.

 

[mrack]

Personally I would consider it only as a flip if it was $2000 or under. If your looking for something to keep and drive, definitely a no.

 

[CanRebel]

Hey CanRebel, its closer to $3000. I guess that's what attracted my attention, but then the codes. . .

Not being familiar with the 3.6 I felt some advice was in order. Thank you.

I don't know much about 3.6. I could google those codes. But based on what you already wrote. If everything else was fine. You could look at maybe cheap used replacement motor?

As you said you don't mind fixing, but sometimes it's not worth it for the price. If it was me, and I got price down even lower. I'd ask the owner, if I could change coolant, and oil, clear the codes, before the purchase.

That's about as best guess anyone really could give you, even looking at it, really hard to tell if it's not already junk.

 

[Hangard]

Well there it is, another 'Pass' for me!

MrRack & Docwagon1776 , thanks for chiming in as well.
I was thinking a keeper, but it seems the smart money is on spending it somewhere else according to all the advice.

I think I read that that engine is in some 10 Million vehicles! Even a good drivetrain needs to be maintained though.

The ole adage must apply, eh? 'If it sounds too good to be true, it probably is'.

 

[Bigskyroadglide]

Kbb gives low trade value of 3450 and private party sale of 5200. Here is you codes

The P06DD code stands for “Engine Oil Pressure Control Stuck Off.” A faulty oil pump, low engine oil level, damaged oil pressure sensor harness, dirty engine oil, and wiring issues can trigger a P06DD code.

My guess low oil or very dirty oil or both.

code P0128 indicates that your engine coolant temperature is below the thermostat regulating temperature. This means that your Engine Control Module (ECM) or Powertrain Control Module (PCM) has recognized that your engine is running cooler than it's supposed.

My guess anti freeze low and thermostat missing or stuck.

Given the above,

I'd offer less, like 1500 or 2k. Change the oil and filter as cheap as possible with Dino oil. Jiffy lube?

Put distilled water in the rad and see what happens.

Wash and clean up what you can and send it down the road.

It's minimized risk If you get the price down.

If they are stuck on 3k. Walk

 

[CanRebel]

Sometimes you get lucky. I purchased old classic bighorn with 300,000 KM . Owner said he changed the oil "maybe" 3 times
Didn't change the tires, or brakes, or transmission, nothing. He was towing over 15K with it (from one farm to another)

Bought it cheap, changed tires/brakes/oil/shocks and put another 100K KM on it still going strong.

 

[Jeepwalker]

Can you all the work yourself? What's the rust situation? I have buddy who has a '13 and its starting to rust all over like crazy. Holes in the rockers you could put your hand into. And I bet I could pick open holes around the box wheel openings that would be that large too. OTOH, some get washed and cleaned off and don't rust as quick. Maybe at that price it doesn't matter, right?

To me, it doesn't sound like those are deal-breakers. Buy it, put in a new oil change. new coolant and see how it goes. Recognize it might have a corroded radiator/heater core, or even weak head gasket (or warped head), that could need to be changed. Could also have been, or be as simple as a pinhole in a coolant hose or even a not-so-tight hose clamp. None of those are that difficult to fix/resolve. I used to buy cheap vehicles all the time and fix them up. I've seen all those I listed. And I don't think I ever had a tk which needed a new engine (unless I knew it was blown when I bought it). And I had gotten some sweet deals and good running vehicles, I took chances on.

The lowest I ever paid was $25 for a pretty nice fox-body mustang ...and after I drove it all summer, I gave it to my brother who drive it for a year or so and traded for another vehicle.

If you can fix the issues at your own schedule and you have the time/patience/tools/place, then sure, why not? Worst case you could re-sell it for probably what you paid, maybe more. Maybe a lot more.

 

[diymirage]

I'd pass on it, simply for the fact a full sized truck needs to have a full sized engine

 

[Hangard]

Thank you Jeepwalker for your attempt to balance the negatives and add a positive tone, Not that the negatives are not appropriate - they are as this is indeed a neglected truck and needs much, but I've always been lacking on the disposable income department and always try to stretch whatever I have. I do believe in the Mopar products ( is that still the right way to refer to a RAM? ) being a long term user.

I do intend to do the work myself and do have the tools, etc. Just unfamiliar with the 3.6 but it sounds like a fine piece of engineering too.

The current owner is kinda quiet for some reason, but I may keep trying to get some contact again.

diymirage - I respect that. I was pretty impressed, and still am, over the power of the 5.9 Cummins in my 2500! But this will serve a different role and it sounds like the 3.6 is a rather powerful v-6 at any rate. Thank you for your thoughts.

 

[diymirage]

No problem

I've personally felt each time I get a loaner car or a rental, it usually has a smaller engine in it, and they always struggle to keep up with traffic

 

[Jeepwalker]

Thank you Jeepwalker for your attempt to balance the negatives and add a positive tone..

No problem!

I think the key thing is, nobody can say...on those issues. And they are potentially big issues. They're unknowns. And that means it's kind of a roll of the dice weather they'll be expensive problems, or not (they could all be small things). If you had to pay a shop to do any of the engine work, then it'll get expensive fast and then a guy has to re-calculate the cost and maybe getting a better truck from the get-go that has less potential 'risk'. That's why I asked if you could do "ALL" the work yourself.

A lot of tk owners here are big on preventative maintenance. But I've known a few people in my day who were nice people, but somehow extremely hard on everything they owned. Whatever they owned went through accelerated aging. A 3 year old JD Gator, for example, one guy I know, his looked like it was 10yrs old. His ATVs and vehicles were rode hard, received zero attention. Everything he bought just went downhill fast. Nothing ever got washed. Great guy...I liked him a lot. Just one of those things about people. He would just sell them cheap or trade his stuff for new. And he could afford to do so.

That's pretty much how you described this truck. Fortunately trucks are pretty tough and can tolerate a fair amt of abuse. The challenge will be to sleuth-out the faults and start an anti-aging process..wind the clock back so-to-speak. That could mean fixing a lot of small things, or it might need a new (used) engine?? And worst case....what's a used V6 go for ..from Billy Bob on Marketplace in Duluth...these days? $500-800? Maybe $200 ...if you can wait it out and find the right seller. But maybe all the truck needs are a lot of small maintenance items on the current engine?? Or if the head gasket is flaky, let's talk about worse case things .....heck, you might be able to drive it around as-is with the radiator cap on the first notch (that old trick!). Sometimes a guy can drive weeks/month or even yrs like that. Esp in Duluth where it doesn't get particularly hot. Then deal with overheating/heads (*if* it was even a problem) when you had the time.

Then a guy has to look at the suspension too. Good chance a tk like that could need ball joints, etc. Not expensive or difficult to replace, but add to the list of potential things..

Best of luck

 

[Jeepwalker]

BTW ..dirty interior and broken taillights add up to savings!! Most people are turned off by scuzzy interiors. That translates into savings! Easy to clean. My bro.. and I used to buy/flip these cheap 4x4 farm trucks, some had the dirtiest interiors.

The quick way to deal with them is to get the shop vac and decent-sized brush ready, pail of warm soapy water, and hose down the entire interior of a pickup (not the headliner) ...incl the dash...everything. Put a light spray of water on everything and go to town. Start brushing with a fine soft brush/soapy water, work quick, don't worry about the water...you'll do the carpets last. Suck up the dirty water from the seats as ya go. Start with the seats up high, then do the dash. Work from the top to the bottom. Spray-scrub & suck! Spray, Scrub & Suck! Work fast. Use the shop vac bristle brush attachment to suck water from around the dash obstacles and buttons. Do the carpets last. That's how to clean a car/truck interior quick.

Do it on a dry sunny day, in the morning. Then put in the sun to dry out ...maybe with a fan inside. Don't do it when rain is in the forecast (it'll get 'musty').

Boom...later on your truck's interior will suddenly look great with less effort than other people might think! Suddenly your thousand dollar ugly duckling is starting to look like a princess with a future!

 

[Marshall]

If I was thinking about this , I would pay some one to put it on a lift and check everything and what the codes are.
I have bought old beaters for the farm , but these newer one are way different, I have no experience with the v6, I think they have a stupid oil cooler idea. Think you have to be double jointed to work on them.
Do you like working on stuff? Cheap as hell, then OK. But drain the oil and see what's in the pan, if he will not let you check it out, walk .
I love my 14 , but it has the 8 speed and hemi, low miles.
If the body is good , that would make the difference, don't buy rust.

I bought a old Toyota ex cab work truck one time , you could not tell what color the carpets where, pull them all out and off to car wand wash, spent about 6.00 or 8.00 and sprayed the heck out of them, they ended up very nice, the mud saved them wear I think.

 

[Hangard]

Hello all and again thank you for the insights.
I realize that my question was in hindsight a poor one to ask around here. Who here would let a vehicle get to that condition. This whole place is about careful maintenance and quality repairs - within budget, of couse - so how could you know the answer about bad oil setting a code, etc. But your replies were all great and valuable to me.

In the end the current owner did not wish to reduce price after a week of quiet on my part. It may well have been a educational project at the very least, but surely something else will show up.

So in the vein diymirage statements about bigger engine, maybe I will have to research the 5.7 a bit. Seems like they need a cam kit, well the ones in my price of interest need a cam kit. So I need to figgure out which have MDS, does one repair or delete the MDS, how stable is the rest of the engine, etc. - So I will be around and maybe you will see a new post from me about one of these kind of subjects.

Regardles. Thank you all once again for the iniput.

 

[Marshall]

No problem with the question, But with out knowing what are a able to do your self, it is hard to answer. I have had a few 5.7, but they where new or as new, so that is different then most hi milers. I have never changed a lifter or cam.

At my age , in my 80's one thing I have learned, cheap is usually not cheap in the long run, unless you like fixing junk, and I have done lots of that, but if you have to hire it done , it's not worth it. The hemi's I work on where 1950's ones