Pedal commander error and check engine light

[88ROOK]

Ok great. I'll see if it keeps doing it, and if so I will contact them. I've already re-downloaded the lastest app about 2 weeks ago. Although... this did start happening after I did that and re-connected it to the PC. Maybe I should uninstall it and try again.

i personally wouldnt keep messing with it, took all of like 4 days to get a new one. i shipped mine out USPS and got the new one back couple days later. service opened a work order and emailed me back and send my new one was on the way, no hassles

 

[clay282]

I have driven ALL over the place and have a good solid 30k miles on my PC and it craps itself EVERY SINGLE TIME I HIT THIS SPOT ON THE HIGHWAY TO MEMPHIS! I called them, they said it was a fluke, "send it back". I think it was even a big wig that called me and thought it was a connector or something. Since it ONLY throws a code and goes into limp in mode at this EXACT spot and only in the south bound lane. I asked to use a friends PC on my next trip as an experiment and swapped mine on my next trip... Same thing, same code, same limp in mode, pulled over right before the bridge just like always. I think these things are susceptible to outside interference. If you look in the Google St view you can see a cellphone antenna directly ahead. If it's not doing it all the time, I don't know if I would worry about it. After a restart limp in mode leaves and 5 starts and the code is gone. I even took the thing in to the dealer to make sure the truck itself was OK and it was. In the end, I didn't send it back. Why get another if my friends did the same thing at the same place.

https://www.google.com/maps/@35.556...Dcnt84nqFdPmw!2e0!7i13312!8i6656!9m2!1b1!2i47

 

[Rolly]

man i just got my PC today. Hope it doesn't crap out on me.

 

[MileHighRam11]

Threads like this keep me from buying a PC. I've had enough CELs already. I'll save my $300 for something else lol.

 

[Hankrebel]

Tech support contacted me and asked for the serial number on the PC. They asked me to reconnect to the PC via Bluetooth and update the software when prompted.
They obviously know about the errors and able to push out updates.
I have reconnected my PC to the truck and will drive it a few days to see if it happens again.

 

[ThunderMug95]

@clay282 That is pretty freaky, but it is logical.

 

[Hankrebel]

So far running 3 days with no issues what so ever.
I'm assuming the update was built just for this issue with he Bluetooth model.

 

[indept]

well, i contacted the PC people and here is what i was told. The rep i spoke to said he spoke with the ceo / owner and advised me that the issue seems to have something to do with the cold weather and the remote start. Something along the lines of the cold cranking amps of the battery during really cold temps and the voltage produced during the remote start up. Apparently, during all start ups, the PC goes through a little booting cycle as the vehicle is starting and in my situation, due to the cold temps, possibly lower voltage during the remote start and the power cycle of the PC, it resulted in the error message and the check engine light.

They said they can program the PC to have a 90 second delay when the truck is being started. This will happen no matter if I use the remote start or the normal key fob push button start.

Not sure how i feel about that to be honest. During non winter seasons, I usually give my truck a minimum 30 seconds or so to warm up before i put it into gear ( of course longer during the winter, especially if i use the remote start ), but that means if i do a start up and a short warm up ( in a rush, motor is already warm or whatever ...), when i pull away, my throttle is going to be set to the oem settings and then after 90 seconds or so, the pedal will then become more sensitive as i'm driving along......

Also, i finally got the thing off my gas pedal, but not after having to muscle it with a flat head screw driver. Maybe the PC clip was broken...... As i removed it, a piece of the PC clip fell to the floor, so who knows. I'm sending it in to be looked at ( the clip ) and reprogrammed, but i'm not sure i even want to re-install it when i get it back to be honest.....

I've had my Pedal commander from the summer of 2018 with no issues until late October of 2019. I left work, drove a half mile to the liquor store, medicinal purposes only, then got right onto the highway. less than 1000 ft the truck goes into limp mode due to a throttle fault. I pulled over, turned off engine & restarted, pulled back out onto road and instantly got the fault. pulled back over, disconnected the pedal commander, restarted and back onto road, no issues getting home but I recall having a CEL light. Code pulled gave something like a throttle overvoltage or out of range, I don't recall since it's been months. I was too busy back then to F with it and didn't want to take a chance of being stranded in freezing cold or 2 ft of snow, which never happened due to warm winter, & have left it off for the winter. Today I got the PC hooked back up & took it for a ride. PC worked great, no issues.

Back in January I bought a battery analyzer meter, cheap about $30 but looked interesting on youtube. I tried it out on my truck, I wasn't having any starting or battery issues I just wanted to test the meter. Well I connected the leads to my battery & was surprised to see 11.8v which I did verify with a good DVM. Next the meter said to start the vehicle & it will get cranking voltage. I started my truck, no problem at all, and the meter said the voltage was 9.70 v. The minimum for a good battery is 9.60 v but a good battery should be higher typically 10v or better. Being that I bought my truck new in Sept 2017 I called the dealer & said I have a battery issue. they said bring it in and they'll check everything, battery, alternator, & starter. Well they found the battery was flaky & replaced it free of charge.

Here's my question, given that it was good today I'm wondering if it wasn't just low battery during it's power on boot cycle as mentioned in noupf's post above. As I stated my failure happened right after 2 starts a few minutes apart and having a marginal battery may have caused that. Has anyone else here had issues and found something similar to this?

 

[JohnnyMac]

I've had my Pedal commander from the summer of 2018 with no issues until late October of 2019. I left work, drove a half mile to the liquor store, medicinal purposes only, then got right onto the highway. less than 1000 ft the truck goes into limp mode due to a throttle fault. I pulled over, turned off engine & restarted, pulled back out onto road and instantly got the fault. pulled back over, disconnected the pedal commander, restarted and back onto road, no issues getting home but I recall having a CEL light. Code pulled gave something like a throttle overvoltage or out of range, I don't recall since it's been months. I was too busy back then to F with it and didn't want to take a chance of being stranded in freezing cold or 2 ft of snow, which never happened due to warm winter, & have left it off for the winter. Today I got the PC hooked back up & took it for a ride. PC worked great, no issues.

Back in January I bought a battery analyzer meter, cheap about $30 but looked interesting on youtube. I tried it out on my truck, I wasn't having any starting or battery issues I just wanted to test the meter. Well I connected the leads to my battery & was surprised to see 11.8v which I did verify with a good DVM. Next the meter said to start the vehicle & it will get cranking voltage. I started my truck, no problem at all, and the meter said the voltage was 9.70 v. The minimum for a good battery is 9.60 v but a good battery should be higher typically 10v or better. Being that I bought my truck new in Sept 2017 I called the dealer & said I have a battery issue. they said bring it in and they'll check everything, battery, alternator, & starter. Well they found the battery was flaky & replaced it free of charge.

Here's my question, given that it was good today I'm wondering if it wasn't just low battery during it's power on boot cycle as mentioned in noupf's post above. As I stated my failure happened right after 2 starts a few minutes apart and having a marginal battery may have caused that. Has anyone else here had issues and found something similar to this?

I think it had more to do with the "medicine" you bought rather than the battery.....

I would think that while your truck was running, the voltage would have been 13+ coming from the alternator and so wouldn't have been low voltage that caused the issue. If it was the low voltage that did cause the problem, then I'd expect the CEL to have been thrown right at startup rather than 1000 ft down the highway. Of course, I am simply taking a stab at it and if I'm wrong then I default back to my first observation.....

 

[indept]

I think it had more to do with the "medicine" you bought rather than the battery.....

I would think that while your truck was running, the voltage would have been 13+ coming from the alternator and so wouldn't have been low voltage that caused the issue. If it was the low voltage that did cause the problem, then I'd expect the CEL to have been thrown right at startup rather than 1000 ft down the highway. Of course, I am simply taking a stab at it and if I'm wrong then I default back to my first observation.....

Cant argue the medicine theory BUT if the voltage was low and dropped to 9.7v it would take maybe 5 - 10 seconds if not a little longer to reach operating voltage well after the PC selftest was done, which is what the PC manufacturer said to noupf in post 10. That's why they recommended delaying the self test for 90 seconds to give the system time to stabilize.

 

[JohnnyMac]

Cant argue the medicine theory BUT if the voltage was low and dropped to 9.7v it would take maybe 5 - 10 seconds if not a little longer to reach operating voltage well after the PC selftest was done, which is what the PC manufacturer said to noupf in post 1. That's why they recommended delaying the self test for 90 seconds to give the system time to stabilize.

I am probably missing something, but don't see anything in post 1. That being said, part of the way I make a living is testing batteries using quite a few different analyzers and I was just throwing out a theory from what I've seen during my testing. Usually, if the battery is just weak (like yours) and not toast (which yours wasn't) the high amperage alternators our trucks have would have pushed the system right up over 13.4 volts immediately.

**EDIT** - Went back through and see it was post #10 you were referencing. I think they were just spit-balling and have no idea what really happened to noupf's PC. Tried the baffle with bullchit approach to dealing with the customer.

 

[Rebel 17]

Thanks for the post -
Went to Mt Wilson 4 days ago and same happened.
Went from 65 degree weather and drove to elevation into about 36 degree weather - Parked.
CEL, ETC limo.
Disconnected PC, drove home with
CEL on.
Went away a few days later after driving about 40 miles ....

I reconnected PC couple days ago,
Went up to Mt Wilson again yesterday -
Same problem -
Disconnected PC and figured I look in this forum to find out .....

Guess voltage check is next with the Blue Driver OBDII I ordered ....

PC update/download to delay the sync @starup.

Thank you!!

stay Safe

 

[indept]

Is the delay part of the app or do you have to sent it back to manufacturer to reflash the unit? I have the app but never use it. Its at rev 1.3.1. Much easier to just change on the PC rather than open the app & do it there and also less risk of getting a ticket for driving with the phone in my hand which is around $200.

 

[indept]

Thanks for the post -
Went to Mt Wilson 4 days ago and same happened.
Went from 65 degree weather and drove to elevation into about 36 degree weather - Parked.
CEL, ETC limo.
Disconnected PC, drove home with
CEL on.
Went away a few days later after driving about 40 miles ....

I reconnected PC couple days ago,
Went up to Mt Wilson again yesterday -
Same problem -
Disconnected PC and figured I look in this forum to find out .....

Guess voltage check is next with the Blue Driver OBDII I ordered ....

PC update/download to delay the sync @starup.

Thank you!!

stay Safe

Let us know what the voltage is.

 

[Rebel 17]

Is the delay part of the app or do you have to sent it back to manufacturer to reflash the unit? I have the app but never use it. Its at rev 1.3.1. Much easier to just change on the PC rather than open the app & do it there and also less risk of getting a ticket for driving with the phone in my hand which is around $200.

 

[Rebel 17]

It’s an upload on the application -
PC asked for my Serial Number.
Emailed them Friday.

Waiting for PC to email me the upload .....

 

[indept]

It’s an upload on the application -
PC asked for my Serial Number.
Emailed them Friday.

Waiting for PC to email me the upload .....

So did it work?

 

[indept]

I've had my Pedal commander from the summer of 2018 with no issues until late October of 2019. I left work, drove a half mile to the liquor store, medicinal purposes only, then got right onto the highway. less than 1000 ft the truck goes into limp mode due to a throttle fault. I pulled over, turned off engine & restarted, pulled back out onto road and instantly got the fault. pulled back over, disconnected the pedal commander, restarted and back onto road, no issues getting home but I recall having a CEL light. Code pulled gave something like a throttle overvoltage or out of range, I don't recall since it's been months. I was too busy back then to F with it and didn't want to take a chance of being stranded in freezing cold or 2 ft of snow, which never happened due to warm winter, & have left it off for the winter. Today I got the PC hooked back up & took it for a ride. PC worked great, no issues.

Back in January I bought a battery analyzer meter, cheap about $30 but looked interesting on youtube. I tried it out on my truck, I wasn't having any starting or battery issues I just wanted to test the meter. Well I connected the leads to my battery & was surprised to see 11.8v which I did verify with a good DVM. Next the meter said to start the vehicle & it will get cranking voltage. I started my truck, no problem at all, and the meter said the voltage was 9.70 v. The minimum for a good battery is 9.60 v but a good battery should be higher typically 10v or better. Being that I bought my truck new in Sept 2017 I called the dealer & said I have a battery issue. they said bring it in and they'll check everything, battery, alternator, & starter. Well they found the battery was flaky & replaced it free of charge.

Here's my question, given that it was good today I'm wondering if it wasn't just low battery during it's power on boot cycle as mentioned in noupf's post above. As I stated my failure happened right after 2 starts a few minutes apart and having a marginal battery may have caused that. Has anyone else here had issues and found something similar to this?

Went to store yesterday, put in reverse to back into spot & noticed transmission took a few seconds to go into reverse so I put it back into drive & took a few seconds. Noticed CEL is on. After leaving store it went into gear just fine & ran fine. Checked code: P2122 Throttle position sensor switch D circuit low input. Tried to clear code using AlphaOBD. Cleared the code and no other codes present but CEL is still on. today I took it for a drive & ran in City & Sport modes, ran fine. Got my Actron scanner & found code that I initially read & cleared with AlphaOBD is back. The actron shows code as "Permanent". I found that: " Permanent Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) is stored when a DTC is confirmed and the Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) has been illuminated. A Permanent DTC can only then be cleared by the module strategy and cannot be erased by clearing DTCs with a scan tool, a Keep-Alive Memory (KAM) reset, or battery disconnect." so I will take it for a drive to set all the monitors. If not, I will try turning the PC off then clear codes & drive to set monitors. If that doesn't work I will disconnect the PC & reset everything which I suspect will work since this is the same code that I got back in October & disconnecting it fixed the issue.

Has anyone encountered this?

My fear is that it's the PCM, reason I think that is both issues happened while going to liquor stores so if my truck doesn't like me going to liquor stores I will have to fix it's brain...

 

[indept]

Here we go again, yesterday my truck went into limp mode, throttle voltage fault. I just got gas, slightly pressed pedal & truck lurched forward like I laid into the pedal, then went into limp mode. I stopped, turned off the truck, then turned key to on, turned PC off, then restarted. CEL was on but truck ran fine for about 1 mile then limp again with PC turned off. Only had 1 mile to get home so I shut off & restarted my truck. Got home with no problem. checked codes with AlfaOBD. Had the throttle voltage code. Cleared it with AlfaOBD. started truck but CEL was still on. I removed the PC from the throttle. I got my Actron CP9180 scanner, It found 5 permanent throttle codes that AlfaOBD didn't detect so I tried clearing them and was able to get down to 3 permanent codes. restarted & CEL was off. Running fine without PC. Not sure if I want to reconnect again. I will try contacting Pedal Commander & see what they suggest.

I was lucky, I took my wife for final eye laser after her recent cataract surgery yesterday morning Left house at 5:30 AM for a 6:30 appt 40 minute from my house, mostly highway driving. I'm glad it didn't go into limp mode while I was doing 70+ mph.

 

[PdPuNOme]

Same BS here. Randomly goes into limp mode, throws CEL and flashes (I believe the lightning bolt?). Started off once every 2 months then got worse and more frequent to the point I can predict when it will happen... I rarely drive the truck, so when I do if I feel the throttle/shift extend or rpms spike as if I am pressing the gas when at a stop in drive, the PC is about to fail. Everytime I pull over and disconnect the PC and drive off. I do not bother with the codes, same everytime and they clear themselves within a few times driving it. PC better wake up, seriously, what if these issues occured can be linked to accidents... The failure rate of these is high enough they better stop ignoring.
To save zero mpg's, gain zero hp, be on constant edge, risk truck damage, risk injury and for what? Pedal Commander, nope. I will not be reconnecting, not worth it y'all.
90 sec delay... *****, what happens then when someone starts to drive prior then engages.
My rant for the day.