QA1 Shocks: Modified & Installed on 4G Ram - Parts Needed, Install Tips, etc..

[Hemi450hp]

Anyone know the part # for the front double adjustable shocks? I have never used QA1, and I'm looking for a set to use at the track.

 

[TriSum]

Anyone know the part # for the front double adjustable shocks? I have never used QA1, and I'm looking for a set to use at the track.

I believe these guys have used the TS507 (single adj) and TD507 would be the double adj. They have an "R" shock that is for drag racing, (fixed compression with adjustable rebound). It would be the same number after the "R"

After emailing back and forth with QA1, they have a shock for the "08" Ram that they say is the correct dimension for the "09+", it is #514 with the appropriate pre-fix, TS, TD or R.

David

 

[DavidRam]

I take it this is for the rear (13 clicks)? What about the front?

Do you feel you could use more rebound, but don't want to go any stiffer on the compression?

Thanks!

Front and rear both. I haven't started trying different settings front and rear, yet. I think I am still just enjoying the big improvement over my old shocks and I don't want to ruin the moment, lol!

To be honest, I haven't paid attention to the compression vs rebound, because at 13, I feel it's quite balanced...

 

[Hemi450hp]

I believe these guys have used the TS507 (single adj) and TD507 would be the double adj. They have an "R" shock that is for drag racing, (fixed compression with adjustable rebound). It would be the same number after the "R"

After emailing back and forth with QA1, they have a shock for the "08" Ram that they say is the correct dimension for the "09+", it is #514 with the appropriate pre-fix, TS, TD or R.

David

Thank you. Looks like I need to give them a call tomorrow. I wonder if you can go with a stiffer compression setting using the double adjustables than what you get on their preset race application? I will ask and throw the info up here after speaking with them tomorrow. Might be a nice option for the guys that are serious about racing.

 

[DavidRam]

Switch the S to D:

QA1 TD507, QA1 Stocker Star Adjustable Shocks | QA1

 

[TriSum]

Front and rear both. I haven't started trying different settings front and rear, yet. I think I am still just enjoying the big improvement over my old shocks and I don't want to ruin the moment, lol!

To be honest, I haven't paid attention to the compression vs rebound, because at 13, I feel it's quite balanced...

That is interesting. I would think with the front of the truck, carrying most of the weight, that the front shocks would need to be stiffer to handle that weight. And the lighter back end of the truck would require a lower adjustment to perform equally, (controlling movement at the same rate). ????

David

 

[DavidRam]

That is interesting. I would think with the front of the truck, carrying most of the weight, that the front shocks would need to be stiffer to handle that weight. And the lighter back end of the truck would require a lower adjustment to perform equally, (controlling movement at the same rate). ????

David

Totally agree. I need to take some time and play with the settings a little more...

When are you gonna do yours?? Are you leaning double or single adj??

 

[DavidRam]

This is awesome info right here: https://www.cachassisworks.com/Attachments/Instructions/899-031-214.pdf

 

[TriSum]

When are you gonna do yours?? Are you leaning double or single adj??

They are a week or so out on the new fronts, T*514 that they list for the "08" trucks that he recommended for me. These are the same length as the 507, but have a longer t-bar so that doesn't need to be changed.

I'm still up in the air. Wondering if I am being over **** about the whole situation since the single adjustable will be way better than the BT shocks I have now, and that this IS a "street" truck.

David

 

[DavidRam]

They are a week or so out on the new fronts, T*514 that they list for the "08" trucks that he recommended for me. These are the same length as the 507, but have a longer t-bar so that doesn't need to be changed.

^^^ Interesting, this would simplify install. Good info.

I'm still up in the air. Wondering if I am being over **** about the whole situation since the single adjustable will be way better than the BT shocks I have now, and that this IS a "street" truck.

BIG improvement! IMHO, I doubt that in daily driving you will benefit (or even feel the difference) with precisely adjusting compression AND rebound. That single will allow you to adjust the shocks to the BTs spring rate and play with some comfort vs performance levels.
Again, if I was gonna spend alot of time on a road coarse, than I would definitely go double.

Speaking of road coarse, I think my truck handles brilliantly for a 5,000 brick, where the hell do we go for a track day to drift these beasts around some turns, lol?!?!?!?!

 

[DavidRam]

Damn you guys run em set crazy firm.

I have mine at 4/4 but I do it for racing not handling.

What springs do you have?

 

[cjacks519]

Can you explain "squirly" for me? Does it feel as though when you hit a bump that the shock compresses too much or too quickly, or is it when the spring pushes the truck back up that it feels like it is going up too quickly?

Thanks!

David

I guess I can say my definition of squirly is too much compression and rebound. A setting of 10 was stiffer than the belltech shocks, but still reminded me of them a little too much.

 

[cjacks519]

That is interesting. I would think with the front of the truck, carrying most of the weight, that the front shocks would need to be stiffer to handle that weight. And the lighter back end of the truck would require a lower adjustment to perform equally, (controlling movement at the same rate). ????

David

Like DavidRam, I installed my front qa1's first and drove the like that for about a week. I can honestly say I didn't like, and could definitely feel the difference from front to rear. It almost seemed like having such a stable front end on qa1's set at 12 exaggerated the bounciness of the belltech shocks in the rear.

From that experience, I can say if you set front and rear differently it won't be by much. Maybe 1-2 clicks difference at most but nothing drastic

 

[cjacks519]

If I was hitting a road coarse every weekend, I would have definitely got the dual, but for a daily driver, the single adjustable is a significant enough improvement over non-adjustable shocks.

I agree with this. My truck is strictly a spirited daily driver and will likely never see the track or strip. If I went to the track or strip at all (even infrequently) I would've gone double adjustable. In either scenario you'll want as much control and adjustment as possible for your money.

 

[DavidRam]

Damn you guys run em set crazy firm.

I have mine at 4/4 but I do it for racing not handling.

Ground Force 2/3 with the rear coils cut to make it a 2/4

With coils as firm as those and the shocks set at 4, the shocks are hardly doing any work. Your coils have a certain spring rate and the shocks should be adjusted close to that, or they are gonna leave you moving/bouncing around on your coils with little help from the shocks... IMHO

 

[cjacks519]

That is interesting. I would think with the front of the truck, carrying most of the weight, that the front shocks would need to be stiffer to handle that weight. And the lighter back end of the truck would require a lower adjustment to perform equally, (controlling movement at the same rate). ????

David

The link that DavidRam posted on pg.10 explains this I think. Specifically the section talking about fore/aft pitching. It also explains what I was feeling riding on the soft as hell belltech shocks in back and qa1's set at 12 in the front.

Seems that because a truck is lighter out back than it is in the front the ideal shock setting would be the same front and rear to prevent pitching. Slightly higher in the rear for a vehicle with close to even weight distribution

At least that's what I got from it... Someone correct me if I'm reading that wrong. I'm no expert by any means

 

[KEVERY12]

Uh Oh ...

Amazon (or local hardware store)
(8) - Spacers for 9/16" Bolt Size, 19/32" ID x 1-3/16" OD, 3/16" Thick (I used 16 heavy duty galvanized washers)
Morton TW-5SS Stainless Steel 300 Heavy Duty Washer, 9/16" Bolt Size, 19/32" ID x 1-3/16" OD, 3/16" Thick (Pack of 10): Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

Hey David, I just wanted to Confirm for the Amazon order i only need 2 of those 10 packs to have "16 total washers" instead of getting "8 Spacers" ?
Or did i need 8 ten packs, did i Screw up?
Numbers Suck !

 

[DavidRam]

Amazon (or local hardware store)
(8) - Spacers for 9/16" Bolt Size, 19/32" ID x 1-3/16" OD, 3/16" Thick (I used 16 heavy duty galvanized washers)
Morton TW-5SS Stainless Steel 300 Heavy Duty Washer, 9/16" Bolt Size, 19/32" ID x 1-3/16" OD, 3/16" Thick (Pack of 10): Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

Hey David, I just wanted to Confirm for the Amazon order i only need 2 of those 10 packs to have "16 total washers" instead of getting "8 Spacers" ?
Or did i need 8 ten packs, did i Screw up?
Numbers Suck !

If I understand you corrently, you got the right quantities... You need a total piece count of 8.

 

[6speed4.7]

I just completed my QA1 shock install. A big thank you to DavidRam for the idiot-proof shock recipe.
I did manage to come up with a simple method to press the QA1 pu bushingsinto the shock eyelet without cutting them
For what its worth, here it is...

1. Stuff required-

vise
1 1/16" shallow socket
27mm deep socket, 1/2" drive
4" x 3/8 carriage bolt/nut with 2 flat washers
wrench for above nut
lube
vise grips
2. Push the carriage bolt into the socket so the theads come out the other side, then install washer and nut, tighten the nut just enough that the bolt doesn't flop around. Put the 2nd washer into the open end of the socket. its important that the washer is as snug as possible in the socket

Push the bushing into the open end of the socket as far as it will go- sitting square against the washer on the inside, loosen the nut so the end of the carriage bolt is snug against the washer inside the socket. Lube the inside of the shock eyelet and end of the bushing sticking out of the socket
4. Using the shallow socket, put the whole thing into the vise

Snug the vise up so its all in alignment. Its important that the sockets sit squarely on the shoulders of the shock eyelet and vise jaws. It might take a few tries, I put a whole pile of rags on the vise to protect the shock, if slips out.
5. Now loosen up the nut as you tighten up the vise, this will slide the bolt through the socket and slowly push the bushing into the eyelet. Its important to keep the vise as tight as possible or everything will come out of alignment. Keep on loosing the nut on the bolt/ tightening the vise until you've run out of threads. I had the vise grips on the end of the bolt to stop it from turning
6. Probably will look like this when you are out of threads-

Put it back in the vise, and with the open end of the shallow socket facing the shock eyelet- tighten the vise to push the remaining part of the bushing in

Hopefully this makes sense....

 

[DavidRam]

Awesome man! I'm glad it was helpful to you!

Great idea for getting the bushings in without cutting them, thanks for sharing that! Oh, and welcome to RF!
Post up your impressions of the QA1s after you spent some time driving with them.