Re-Gearing Question

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Hawk1775

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I'm looking into doing a gear swap on my 2022 2500 Laramie 4x4 crew cab. Currently I have the 3.73 gearing and I'm looking toward the 4.10 and hit a "roadblock" (for me anyway) question about "Tru-Lok", does my Ram have it or not? I've never heard of it and looking at the MOPAR Sites, very few show/list the gearing number. I figure I'll need to replace the front differential as well so I was looking that gear up as well; ran into the same question. Replacing the bearings and all I was expecting, but this one threw me into left field. Am I better off checking with a shop for this once the question is solved and/or answered? Grrrrr
 

mtnrider

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Your truck does Not have a tru-lok, it may or may not have a limited slip rear though.

I highly reccomend talking to a shop that has experience doing Ram HD trucks, From what I've seen it's not an easy swap and can be quite expensive on these trucks. Not as straight forward as some other brands (from what I have seen and read anyway)
 

White six four

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Why do you want the 4.10s? It's going to be a lot of money for not very much change in driving since you have the 8 speed. Even if you had the 66rfe the cost to go from 3.73s to 4.10s wouldn't be worth it in my opinion. 4.56s or a bigger jump in gears would make for a lot better driving experience depending on how your truck is used and what tires you have.
 

rzr6-4

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question about "Tru-Lok", does my Ram have it or not?
Your truck does Not have a tru-lok, it may or may not have a limited slip rear though.

100% does not have the tru-lok, but regarding the limited slip, don't all the 2500s use a torsional diff? I know that's what mine has and I believe was standard at the time (2009) but I suppose that could have changed since then.
 

mtnrider

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100% does not have the tru-lok, but regarding the limited slip, don't all the 2500s use a torsional diff? I know that's what mine has and I believe was standard at the time (2009) but I suppose that could have changed since then.

Limited slip dif is an option, may have been standard back in 09 but I know it wasn't standard equipment on the late 4th and 5th gen trucks.

.
 

Dean2

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It is your money so you get to spend it as you like, but re-gearing to 4:10s front and back will cost you a lot of money and get you no net result. However, if you want to go to locking diffs front and back, then re-gearing at the same time won't add much extra cost. You may want to checkout the diff locks that the Power Wagon uses.

AXLE LOCKER SYSTEM —IF EQUIPPED​


This vehicle is equipped with an electronically lockingrear differential. Power Wagon also includes a locking front differential.These differentials, when engaged, mechanically lock together theaxle shafts forcing the wheels to spin at an equal rate. This allowsthe vehicle to maintain its momentum and prevents it from becomingstuck. The locking differentials, rear or front, should only beengaged during low-speed, extreme off-road situations where onewheel is likely to not be in contact with the ground. It is notrecommended to drive the vehicle with one or both of the differentialslocked on pavement due to the reduced ability to turn and speedlimitations.

GUID-F2D2B9D2-705B-48D6-A43E-651877BDEE2B-high.png
AXLE Lock Selector


1 — FRONT/REAR LOCK – the front and rear axles are locked(Power Wagon Only)
2 — REAR LOCK – the rear axle is locked
3 — AXLE UNLOCK – the front and rear axles are unlocked(Rear only if equipped)

CAUTION!:
  • Do not lock the frontor rear axle on hard surfaced roads. The ability to steer the vehicleis reduced and damage to the drivetrain may occur when the axlesare locked on hard surfaced roads.
  • Do not try to lock the rear axle if the vehicle is stuckand the tires are spinning. You can damage drivetrain components.Lock the rear axle before attempting situations or navigating terrain,which could possibly cause the vehicle to become stuck.

The locking axles are controlled by the axle lock buttons.

Under normal driving conditions, the vehicle should be left inthe AXLE UNLOCK position.

Note:
Even whenthe axles are in the AXLE UNLOCK position, the limited slip differentialin the rear axle still provides torque biasing capability for moderatelow traction environments.

During the command to lock the axle, the indicator light willflash until the axle is locked. After the lock command has beensuccessfully executed, the light will remain on solid.

To lock the rear axle, place the vehicle in 4WD LOW, 4WD HIGHor two-wheel drive FOUR-WHEEL DRIVE OPERATION — IF EQUIPPED.Push the REAR LOCK button while traveling less than 10 mph (16 km/h).The REAR LOCK indicator light will remain on when the rear axleis locked.

1748618674980.png

Note:
Left toright wheel speed difference may be necessary to allow the axleto fully lock. If the indicator light is flashing after placingthe vehicle in the REAR LOCK or FRONT/REAR LOCK position, drivethe vehicle in a turn or on loose gravel to expedite the lockingaction.

Warning!:
Do not use the locked axleposition for normal driving. A locked front axle is intended foroff-road driving only. Locking the front axle during on-road drivingwill reduce the steering ability. This could cause a collision andyou may be seriously injured.

To lock the front axle, if equipped, push the FRONT/REAR LOCKbutton while traveling less than 10 mph (16 km/h) in 4WD LOW. TheFRONT/REAR LOCK indicator light will be solid when the front axleis locked.

Note:
The rearaxle must be locked before the front axle will lock.

When both the axles are locked, to unlock the front axle, pushthe REAR LOCK button while in 4WD LOW. The FRONT/REAR LOCK indicatorlight will go out when the axle is unlocked.

Note:
The axlelockers could be torque locked due to side to side loads on theaxle. Driving slowly while turning the steering wheel from a lefthand turn to a right hand turn or driving in REVERSE for a shortdistance may be required to release the torque lock and unlock theaxles.

To unlock the rear axle, push the AXLE UNLOCK button. The REARLOCK indicator light will go out when the rear axle is unlocked.

Parent topic: STARTING AND OPERATING
 
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Hawk1775

Hawk1775

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Thanks for the Replies and Input; I had my suspicions about my RAM NOT having the Tru-Lok. This being my first 2500 I don't know as much about the drivetrain as I did with the 1500's. The only reason I'm looking into the 4.10 gears is for the increased, although not by much, tow capacity when I do tow a 5th wheel. The infrequency of towing couldn't justify the diesel for what I do with my truck.
 

Dean2

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Thanks for the Replies and Input; I had my suspicions about my RAM NOT having the Tru-Lok. This being my first 2500 I don't know as much about the drivetrain as I did with the 1500's. The only reason I'm looking into the 4.10 gears is for the increased, although not by much, tow capacity when I do tow a 5th wheel. The infrequency of towing couldn't justify the diesel for what I do with my truck.
By the time you pay for the gear change front and back, you will have paid more than the diesel option costs on a new order, and you could have picked the gear ratio too.
 
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Hawk1775

Hawk1775

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Why do you want the 4.10s? It's going to be a lot of money for not very much change in driving since you have the 8 speed. Even if you had the 66rfe the cost to go from 3.73s to 4.10s wouldn't be worth it in my opinion. 4.56s or a bigger jump in gears would make for a lot better driving experience depending on how your truck is used and what tires you have.
I'm looking into this change for the increased towing capacity; although I don't tow that often (to justify the expense of diesel). The trailers that I've been looking at are around 15,400#; With the setup I have now my MAX is 14,780#.

The tire size on my 2500 are 20 inch.

I'm the type to "research" first, rather than just make the change and go "Ouch, that cost a Lot!"
 

White six four

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All the 4.10s will help you do is get the load moving faster from a stop. I forget the towing standard or whatever it's called jxxx something. Basically tests the trucks to get their ratings. One of the tests is to get the load moving up to a certain speed from a stop in a set time. Hence why the 4.10s will have a higher towing capacity then the 3.73s. Once you're moving (highway cruising) it's up for debate but especially with the 8 speed it won't matter as much if you have 3.73s or 4.10s.

I'd save the money for the gears and put it towards a ton diesel personally if you're looking at 15k pound trailers. Or look at smaller trailers unless you're only going to do short local trips.
 

crazy jerry

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By the time you pay for the gear change front and back, you will have paid more than the diesel option costs on a new order, and you could have picked the gear ratio too.

i thought the diesel was like $10k extra ? granted ive never looked into it but a gear change is not even a 1/4 that. just a routine gear swap of course.

powerwagon locking carriers are well over $1k each ,need holes drilled in the housing , wiring and switches installed n the cab. i never recomend lockers (especially front) to the average joe as the very rare times they might possibly use them will never washout to the thousands of dollars they cost to buy. unless a guy is simply a fool with no regaurd for his money.

op you can buy 4.44 from aam. this is likely the route i would go. the aftermarket stuff (mostly its from china) i would avoid like the plague. if you have just a open rear diff now , you can get the traction carrier from aam as well. the torsion style used in older models may fit your truck. other wise it might be clutch style. demandaam dot com will get you educated on the subject
 

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What would the GEAR Ratio Change be equivalent to,

IF the WHEEL/RIM diameter were changed to 18"

I believe that you would Gain close to 300 RPM at 50 MPH without changing the RING & PINION

just a wild guess ??
 
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olyelr

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What would the GEAR Ratio Change be equivalent to,

IF the WHEEL/RIM diameter were changed to 18"

I believe that you would Gain close to 300 RPM at 50 MPH without changing the RING & PINION

just a wild guess ??
Has nothing to do with wheel size. Its the overall tire size.
 

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I'm looking into this change for the increased towing capacity; although I don't tow that often (to justify the expense of diesel). The trailers that I've been looking at are around 15,400#; With the setup I have now my MAX is 14,780#.

The tire size on my 2500 are 20 inch.

I'm the type to "research" first, rather than just make the change and go "Ouch, that cost a Lot!"
Brother,

If you are looking into something that heavy for a 5th wheel, you need more truck. A 15k lbs 5th wheel is dually territory to be on the safe side. I don't believe your 2500 is going to have enough cargo/payload capacity for what you want to do. Even if you don't tow that often, pin/hitch weight for something in the 15k weight range is going to eat up your payload.

I wish you the best of luck in your endeavors.

Semper Fi
 

GTyankee

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Post # 15 ...

I think that your statement can not be correct ??

Say for instance , 3 trucks with 20" tires, all tires are 33.5" tall.
Each Rams transmission is identical

Truck #1 has the 3:21 Ratio Ring & Pinion
Truck #2 has the 3:55 Ratio Ring & Pinion
Truck #3 has the 3:92 Ratio Ring & Pinion

All 3 of those Ratios have been available in every 1500 Model Ram for several years now.

Almost every 1500 model Ram can be ordered with
20" wheels

The reason that they 3 axle ratios, like Towing/Power/ & even Speed advantages
 
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crazy jerry

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I'm looking into this change for the increased towing capacity; although I don't tow that often (to justify the expense of diesel). The trailers that I've been looking at are around 15,400#; With the setup I have now my MAX is 14,780#.

The tire size on my 2500 are 20 inch.

I'm the type to "research" first, rather than just make the change and go "Ouch, that cost a Lot!"

these guys have over complicated everything as usual.
door sticker has payload and towing.
either buy a camper thats under the truck rating or buy bigger truck. simple as that.
regearing will help pull your load better but will not change your door sticker in the eyes of the law. the original equipment your truck was built with is what the door sticker reflects.
6.4 will pull 15k a few times a year no problem. every other weekend then ya youll want a cummins.
duallys suck unless its only job is pulling
 

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The crazy thing about Towing in some States

A vehicle that is Towing, may or may not have to Stop to get weighed & get Inspected at various
Truck Scales, its almost crazy here in Southern California.
I have watched a 1 ton truck with a Cement Mixer get a Ticket
Other times i have seen a 3/4 ton pulling a dual axle RV drive right past the Scales & no police went after them
 

crazy jerry

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The crazy thing about Towing in some States

A vehicle that is Towing, may or may not have to Stop to get weighed & get Inspected at various
Truck Scales, its almost crazy here in Southern California.
I have watched a 1 ton truck with a Cement Mixer get a Ticket
Other times i have seen a 3/4 ton pulling a dual axle RV drive right past the Scales & no police went after them

ive never seen any truck and campers at weigh stations where im at either (i think its 33k and above but dont quote me) BUT that doesnt make you exempt from door ratings. otherwise , whats to keep people from loading so heavey the axles break.
ill just say this , you crash into somebody while overloaded and they probly gonna sue you for everything you have , because if they have half a brain theyll want your rig weighed the moment cops get on scene.. and whats your insurance gonna say when they find out your running heavy.
some people dont mind being fools but i wouldnt follow their example
 
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