Rear seat lifting for subwoofer box.

[WilliamS]

Pretty neat, I know it took a whole lot more than that to break them free. I’m not sayin they were less, they felt more in the 70+ range on my truck.

 

[BWL]

I'll just go 40. It meets the minimum 88rook stated and it's not much higher than I figured. After snapping one I don't want to push it, but at the same time I don't want them working loose either. Seems to be the happy medium with conflicting information.

 

[rotwiler]

I was afraid of something like this if I would have gone with a box made by one of my buddies who does custom boxes. I decided to go with a fox box to avoid all this hassle. My seats fold down no issues. All I need to do now is get longer bolts and I would also like to swap out the MDF spacers for some aluminum or steel ones. It will just help me sleep better at night knowing I have aluminum or steel as a spacer. Here’s what I have below and it sounds amazing

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View attachment 127064

Love the custom box I got off here that a member of forums made. Seats fold now and I was able the mount the 1,000 watt amp behind the passenger rear seat(amp is huge, I had to put seat half way up and amp slid into area like it was meant to go there, amp is 9x15.5x2.5 inches) . I cut a area size of amp out of the insulation carpet behind seat in my quad cab, covered rear steel showing with closed cell foam and amps fits perfect and drove for hour tonight with music up to 30+ and amp was still cool to touch. The PAC lp7-2 worked flawless, I am just kind of confused how high to turn the adjustment screw, so just put it like 1/2 way. I went super cheap with this build, total I have into entire system is about $550+ the used 2015 8.4an radio I bought off ebay. Still have my 2013 8.4a I need to sell. I really don't see me needing to do anything else, sounds fantastic now even with gains turned down. For the $550 I got 1,000 Watts rms mono amp, lp7-2, amp install kit, 2 600 watt 12 inch subs, the custom fiberglass box(fit perfect, no adjustments needed once I got right bolts), jbl 2.3 ohm gx302s for front 3 3.5s and jbl 2 ohm p660c 3 way open box 6x9s for rear doors. One box of noico butyl sound deadening for doors and I box of closed cell foam from china($7). I am really happy, this system now sounds fantastic, almost unvelievable for total cost to do it. May not be hertz speakers or other high end, but is crystal clear highs and bass is tight and controlled and sounds amazing.

 

[rotwiler]

Today I fine tuned the amp, still need to hide a few wires and decide if I need to use bass knob or just leave it out for now. I never used cheap brands before, I am 51 and been into car audio since the mid 80s when I had my first car, even then used Rockford punch 75 and 150 amps, mtx, etc. I never planned on a subwoofer in the truck because I wanted sound quality over bass, but over time, I needed a little bass to make system sound better. A member here was selling a fiberglass box he made, $20 + shipping I couldn't pass it up. I didn't need (2) 12s, but didn't want to cut box up. I was going for pretty much cheapest build I could do kind of reason why was to see what I could do for under $500 total. After a month of thinking about it, decided to try rockville audio, price wise was so cheap, kind of made me worry, will see over time, but right now, very happy and even if it is junk, I paid a total of $260 for (2) 600 watt subs that look and sound impressive. A cea rated 1,000 rms watt mono amp and amp install kit. Even if subs are crap, they only cost like $40 each in package and have 1 year warranty. So cost of adding box, subs and amp was a great deal. I limited amp to 1,000 Watts rms so my alternator could handle the power and not dim lights. So far I am amazed at the sound quality of this setup in a sealed box. Sound excellent on different music weather bass heavy rap, old school rock like ac/dc, top 40 etc. I tested amp by driving 1 hour and listening to bass heavy songs at 3/4 volume all the way, then did same thing today and amp was maybe 70 degrees when feeling outside of amp. I have heard people say rockville is crap, but so far it is as good or better sounding than some high end audio I have had in past. Will see over time, worst case I am out like $230 since I can still use the wiring.

 

[Chief_6.7]

Today I fine tuned the amp, still need to hide a few wires and decide if I need to use bass knob or just leave it out for now. I never used cheap brands before, I am 51 and been into car audio since the mid 80s when I had my first car, even then used Rockford punch 75 and 150 amps, mtx, etc. I never planned on a subwoofer in the truck because I wanted sound quality over bass, but over time, I needed a little bass to make system sound better. A member here was selling a fiberglass box he made, $20 + shipping I couldn't pass it up. I didn't need (2) 12s, but didn't want to cut box up. I was going for pretty much cheapest build I could do kind of reason why was to see what I could do for under $500 total. After a month of thinking about it, decided to try rockville audio, price wise was so cheap, kind of made me worry, will see over time, but right now, very happy and even if it is junk, I paid a total of $260 for (2) 600 watt subs that look and sound impressive. A cea rated 1,000 rms watt mono amp and amp install kit. Even if subs are crap, they only cost like $40 each in package and have 1 year warranty. So cost of adding box, subs and amp was a great deal. I limited amp to 1,000 Watts rms so my alternator could handle the power and not dim lights. So far I am amazed at the sound quality of this setup in a sealed box. Sound excellent on different music weather bass heavy rap, old school rock like ac/dc, top 40 etc. I tested amp by driving 1 hour and listening to bass heavy songs at 3/4 volume all the way, then did same thing today and amp was maybe 70 degrees when feeling outside of amp. I have heard people say rockville is crap, but so far it is as good or better sounding than some high end audio I have had in past. Will see over time, worst case I am out like $230 since I can still use the wiring.

Glad you like it and I’m glad it all worked out. Great job brotha!!!!

 

[BWL]

Finally picked up my aluminum. Now I can build the seat lift and get everything back together

 

[Chief_6.7]

Finally picked up my aluminum. Now I can build the seat lift and get everything back togetherView attachment 127705View attachment 127706View attachment 127707View attachment 127708

Nice..... what are the specs that you used? Thickness,length width?

 

[BWL]

Nice..... what are the specs that you used? Thickness,length width?

used 3/4" thick 2" aluminum flat bar. Outer spacers were 17" long with 3. 5/8" holes drilled for the bolts and alignment pins. 3/4" centre on 1 edge. The middles were 16.25" since I left a gap for wiring and 2 holes in each. I bought a 6' piece of aluminum for all 4. Longer bolts, washers, aluminum and paint I was 60 bucks cdn in materials and it took about 3 hours to pull and reinstall seats make the brackets and paint them.

 

[WilliamS]

used 3/4" thick 2" aluminum flat bar. Outer spacers were 17" long with 3. 5/8" holes drilled for the bolts and alignment pins. 3/4" centre on 1 edge. The middles were 16.25" since I left a gap for wiring and 2 holes in each. I bought a 6' piece of aluminum for all 4. Longer bolts, washers, aluminum and paint I was 60 bucks cdn in materials and it took about 3 hours to pull and reinstall seats make the brackets and paint them.

Very impressive

 

[ilovemyramlaremie]

Looking good. Glad I didn't have folding floor storage, and I didn't have to modify anything.
I also noticed a better sounding bass when the rear seat is up vs down. Obviously with the seat down some muffling accurs when the seat is down, still sounds awesome ether way.

 

[BWL]

For those interested this is the end result

 

[rotwiler]

With the loc, does it just connect to the black and white wires from the alpine harness, + white, - black for both? Ran into issues with the pac loc so ordered a audiocontrol. Was only getting max 1.9v from one side. So wondering if I messed up when wiring, but only. wires available to the alpine oem sub are 2 white and 2 black at the harness.