Replacing Front Axle Bearings

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soup1967

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The Patient: 1994 Ram 1500 4x4

The diagnosis: VERY noisy bearings at hubs and "play" noticed on jacked up wheels (wobble)

The problem: I have always done most of the work the truck for the 18+ years that I have owned it. HOWEVER... I have never done front axle bearings.

That being said... HELP!

I need to now what parts and tools I will need BEFORE I tear into it. I have heard that, while time consuming, it's a fairly easy task for the "mechanically inclined".

ANY ADVICE/ASSISTANCE/HELP/RECOMMENDED RESOURCES WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED!!!

THANKS IN ADVANCE!
 
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soup1967

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by the way, new ball joints on both sides, so not the reason for the "wobble"
 

Okiespaniel

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Wow...18 years and your axle bearings just went out?? You lead a charmed life sir!

Since I don't know where you live, I'll asume the worst in that you live in the rust belt. It gets Slightly easier if you don't. I'll also assume you have acces to a fairly goood selection of tools and possibly some air tools. The job is easier if you do.
In addition to the jacks, jackstands and safety items you may already have, You'll need an hub socket, and a 12 point socket to remove the hub bearing bolts.

I would have started soaking every fastener with PB Blaster like 2 weeks ago, wire brushng in between where you can so the penetrant gets into the crevices it needs to.

Removing the hub nuts is the #2 pain in the ***. 3/4 inch breaker bars and pipe extensions are the norm. A heavy duty air wrench is the prefered method.

After removing the brake calipers and rotors, I recommend dropping a tie rod end so you can access the 3 hub bearing bolts. They should be 12 points, and they are on there at (145 ft lbs) tight as well.

Once you've gotten the hub bolts out, you will now face the #1 PITA job....getting the bearing hub assemblys out. One method is to pound on them like a psycho until they give. Another better idea is to get longer bolts, for the hubs, screw them back in part way, and start rocking the steering wheel until the bearings work themselves out You may still need some hammer and chisel work, and LOTS of penetrant. Sometimes they come out as a unit, sometimes in pieces.

Once they are out, and hopefully not with your axle shafts still attached, you can begin the replacement process. I HIGHLY recommend replacing your axle joints at this point and inspecting and replacing the ball joints if they are even close. The reasoning is you'll have to remove all this stuff again if you don't.

On reassembly, use LOTS and I mean lots of neversieze on anything you removed like the hub assemblies. Torque everything to spec, especially the NEW hub nuts and you should be golden.

EDIT: Wow... new ball joints and you didn't do the bearings? Then everything should come right apart...although you must not have done the job because you wouldn't have asked about it right? :)
 
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soup1967

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Thank you for the quick reply!
The truck was bought and lived 17 years of its life in the pacific northwest, where even humans rust! Now we reside in Arizona.
I kinda figured I was gonna need a breaker-bar from what I've heard. It's been compared to removing an idler wheel on an armored personnel carrier (which I have done) so I doubt it's much fun.

Anyway, as far as the parts needed, shouldn't I be able to buy a front bearing and hub assembly as one unit at Pepboys or the like? Found one such item at:

1998 - 1999 Dodge Ram 1500 Truck Dodge Ram 1500 Truck 4WD Front Wheel Bearing & Hub Assembly for Models with Rear Wheel ABS at 1AAuto.com

Ideas?
 
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soup1967

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one other quick question....

How long (best guess) do you think I have before the whole thing will ka-plooey? Do I have time to order parts yet still be able to drive it daily?
 
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soup1967

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yeah, about the new balljoints/old bearings, no I didn't do the job cuz I didn't have the tools or time. Had the "pros" at Les Schwab do it last year...they didn't say anything about bearings being shot, so I "assumed" I had more time... OOPS!
 

Okiespaniel

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If its wobbling it has gone KA plooey. The bearings themselves are encased in a plastic cage and once you get play in them its pretty much done. I don't know how much wobble you have but it it's more than an inch your brake calipers and hub nut are what's holding them on.

How ironic...I did my first bearing change with new u joints in about a day....most of that spent beating the hub bearings out of the knuckles. And in North Phoenix.
The second time...except for all the painting, new brakes, and ball joint replacement... just about half that time.
 

Hemitom

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One other thing to think about when doing all of the front end work is to replacing the front track bar. they seam to go bad when they get up in age and mileage.

remember there are 2 different ones that you need to be aware of. depending on your production date.
 
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soup1967

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Hey all...
Thanks for the comments... it's GREATLY appreciated! Now for the irony....

Got the parts needed to dig in to the job... while getting those I figured I'd buy a new axle socket right? Well, after trying EVERY axle socket (and standard sockets) in several stores, I discovered that 1994 4x4 axle nuts are 1-11/16" or near 44mm! You know how hard that is to find! I had to go to Harbor Freight to get it! Really Dodge?!?!

COME ON!

Oh well, another lesson learned... the hard way!
 

Okiespaniel

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Hey all...
Thanks for the comments... it's GREATLY appreciated! Now for the irony....

Got the parts needed to dig in to the job... while getting those I figured I'd buy a new axle socket right? Well, after trying EVERY axle socket (and standard sockets) in several stores, I discovered that 1994 4x4 axle nuts are 1-11/16" or near 44mm! You know how hard that is to find! I had to go to Harbor Freight to get it! Really Dodge?!?!

COME ON!

Oh well, another lesson learned... the hard way!

I bought mine years ago for a 78 Ramcharger I needed to do the bearings on. So after 3 uses and being used as a seal driver for the front driveshaft it paid for itself. :)
 

batboy

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For what it's worth, anyone viewing this post later, I just replaced the driver's side front bearing and it was a total biotch. The thing was seized up in there. We heated it up and beat the crap out of it trying to get it out. In the end, a neighbor took it to his ship and pressed it out. By the way these are not pressed bearings. So, that is how jammed in there it was. Keep that in mind if you end up doing on your own.
 

Bigtman07

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Quick tip for the stubborn ones in the rust belt. Loosen the 3 12pt bolts a few turns and then hit them with an air hammer will make quick work of the assembly. The service manual also has some other good tips.
 

frpauto

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Hub removal

If anybody is looking for info, the best way to remove a rusted hub on a Dodge is to partway loosen all (either 3 or 4 whatever size truck) hub retaining bolts. Put your 14mm socket on one of the bolts add a short extension or something similar. You want to turn the wheel so that the steering knuckle pinches the socket up against the axle, then start the truck and gently turn the wheel until it pops loose. The steering pressure will push the bolt for you, no pounding! You will have to work your way around the hub till it's completely free. I've done it on dozens of Dodge 4x4's works every time. I work in NW IL so gobs of rust here.
 

meistermash

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To get that big axle nut loose I removed the center cap, put a few of the lug nuts back on with the tire. I then let the front end back down and then jumped up and down on a 3/4" breaker bar. After it was loose I jacked it back up and then put it on jack stands for the other goodness. Just did mine today.
 

HotRodPCJr

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HotRodPC on Shaggy's other forums, told me to add to a previous thread and wake it up rather than start a new thread. This thread seems to right on topic of what I need help with. It appears that all the hell I'm going through to get the hub nuts off is normal.

I'd just like to confirm that both hub nuts are right hand threads. Or correct threads, as in counter clockwise to loosen. My dad had mentioned back in the 60's and 70's Dodge like to jack with people and be idiots and do things left side of the vehicle get left hand threads, the right side got right hand threads. He does alot of work on GM trucks, but not to many Dodges so wanted me to get that confirmed before we start this big fight with these nuts. Thanks
 

HotRodPCJr

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Wow !!! All kinds of help at this help place huh? Never did get the nuts off not knowing if they were left hand threads or not.

On my way to work today the hub collapsed and had to call a tow truck because the wheel was about to fall off.

Hub and Bearing assemblies at Auto Zone and O'Ry's were $100 ea plus tax. Just orderered them from RockAuto for $45 ea no tax with shipping and forum discount $100.35 for the pair delivered to my door. Hope to have them no later than Monday.

More Information for DURA INTERNATIONAL 29515006
 

05daytona

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Here's the one I did on my 1994. It was the most miserable wheel bearing I've ever done.
 

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