Rims hot after pad slap

[PCT]

So i just replaced my pads with EBC green stuff, the old pads were shot, ill post pictures soon. I drove it around the block 2-3 times, getting upto 40 then slamming on the brakes to test there braking power. They smelled like normal, but no smoke which was little unusual. Anywho i noticed my rims were hot as ****, i never touch my rims after driving so not sure what it normal, but the studs i could touch for about 2-5 secs before it hurt and the rims were just hot as **** but i could keep my hand on them. Is this normal, these are high friction pads mating with the rotor.

I drove the truck like i stole it and braked like an ******* tail gating me...


i just slapped them on, didnt replace or turn rotors, they looked clean.

 

[Tach_tech]

Yes that's normal especially after doing some hard stops.

Also a pad slap is usually frowned upon. The rotors should be machined to give a fresh surface for the pads to bed into. Pad slaps do work but it's not the best way to do it.

 

[PCT]

Yes that's normal especially after doing some hard stops.

Also a pad slap is usually frowned upon. The rotors should be machined to give a fresh surface for the pads to bed into. Pad slaps do work but it's not the best way to do it.

will i really notice anything?

 

[doug2013]

Braking causes heat, heat moves through the rotors calipers and hubs via conduction. So if you were slamming on your new pads (which i wouldn't recommend because there are break in procedures for fresh pads and rotors) the brakes got pretty hot and the heat transferred to the surrounding metal including the rims. When replacing pads i always scratch the pads against some good concrete to create a good mating surface, wouldn't hurt to scratch the rotors a tad bit or get them resurfaced might as well if your doing brakes but thats just me. You can prematurely wear the pads or super heat them and they will break down much faster than normal and possibly warp your rotors from all those hard stops. Notice the swirl marks on the rotor picture below.

 

[PCT]

Braking causes heat, heat moves through the rotors calipers and hubs via conduction. So if you were slamming on your new pads (which i wouldn't recommend because there are break in procedures for fresh pads and rotors) the brakes got pretty hot and the heat transferred to the surrounding metal including the rims. When replacing pads i always scratch the pads against some good concrete to create a good mating surface, wouldn't hurt to scratch the rotors a tad bit or get them resurfaced might as well if your doing brakes but thats just me. Notice the swirl marks on the rotor picture below.

Ops... i should drive it light? I probably should have lightly scuffed them, if i need to take the tires off i will. I just slapped the pads on and drove it, stops very well.

 

[PCT]

1Perform 3-4 medium stops from 45mph. Slightly more aggressive than normal braking. You don�t need to come to a complete stop for each pass. This brings the brake rotors up to temperature so they are not exposed to sudden thermal shock.
2 Make 8-10 aggressive stops from 60mph down to 15mph. For this set of semi-stops, you want to be firm and aggressive, but not to the point where ABS activates and the wheels lock up. It�s important to note that you don�t come to a complete stop but rather a semi-stop (~15mph). Accelerate back up to 60mph as soon as you slowed down to your semi-stop.
3The brake pads and brake rotors are extremely hot at this point and sitting on one point will imprint the pad material onto the surface unevenly. This can cause vibration and uneven braking.
4You may notice that your brakes will start fading, and sometimes smoke, after the 6th or 7th pass. This fade will stabilize and will gradually recess once your brakes have cooled down to normal operating temperatures. Drive carefully as your brakes may feel softer for the next few minutes.
Try not to come to a complete stop and find a stretch of road where you can coast for 5-10 minutes, preferably without using your brakes.

I sorta did this on my block run...
Bedding In Brake Rotors

 

[doug2013]

http://www.wilwood.com/Pdf/Misc/Pad_and_Rotor_Bedding_Steps.pdf

This is directly from willwood brakes.

This is from brembo. bedding pro ce dure It is very important to follow proper brake bedding procedure following installation. This is necessary not only for optimum performance of the system, but also to avoid onset of judder (vibration felt through brake and steering). The discs are delivered with a thin zinc coating to prevent corrosion. Prior to beginning the bedding procedure, this plating must be removed from the braking surfaces by driving the car slowly (under 30mph) and performing very light brake applications in order to remove the plating without generating heat. With too much heat or pedal pressure, this plating can be deposited unevenly on the disc, and impregnated into the pad, further increasing the likelihood of judder development. Once a visual inspection of the braking surfaces confirms that the plating has been evenly removed, begin with the bedding procedure as specified below.

• Drive vehicle to a remote area and perform at least 30 brake applications of 3 second duration. Use light/ medium deceleration with varying starting speeds. Leave at least ½ mile between each brake application

• The purpose of this procedure is to gradually increase the temperature in the components without thermal shock, and to mate the brake pad and disc friction surfaces

• After the repeated stops, drive the vehicle for several miles with little or no braking in order to adequately cool the components

• The system is now ready for normal use

 

[catch 22]

Break-in/bedding/burnishing procedures ONLY apply if new pads AND new/turned rotors are used, also bedding/break-in procedures are different for organic, metallic, semi-metallic, and ceramic pads......if the brakes feel good don't worry about it. And yes the rims will get hot enough that you can't touch them.

 

[doug2013]

Break-in/bedding/burnishing procedures ONLY apply if new pads AND new/turned rotors are used, also bedding/break-in procedures are different for organic, metallic, semi-metallic, and ceramic pads......if the brakes feel good don't worry about it. And yes the rims will get hot enough that you can't touch them.

I disagree with that. New pads definitely need to be broken in. you should never just throw new pads or brakes in general on without testing and proper breaking in to set the new pads to the rotors new or old.

 

[PCT]

Oh well i did that brake in routeen via what google said. Im sure there all similar. The EBC pads had a grit on them probably to help bed in

 

[ColdCase]

I disagree with that. New pads definitely need to be broken in. you should never just throw new pads or brakes in general on without testing and proper breaking in to set the new pads to the rotors new or old.

I used to think that too, but my local reputable brake shop says thats old school. They haven't been recommending that for years. It just wears pads faster. Newer rotors/pads do not need special break in procedures. According to them, normal routine braking is more than sufficient.

More exotic brake materials than those used on our trucks may be different, dunno.

 

[Numnutz]

So i just replaced my pads with EBC green stuff, the old pads were shot, ill post pictures soon. I drove it around the block 2-3 times, getting upto 40 then slamming on the brakes to test there braking power. They smelled like normal, but no smoke which was little unusual. Anywho i noticed my rims were hot as ****, i never touch my rims after driving so not sure what it normal, but the studs i could touch for about 2-5 secs before it hurt and the rims were just hot as **** but i could keep my hand on them. Is this normal, these are high friction pads mating with the rotor.

I drove the truck like i stole it and braked like an ******* tail gating me...


i just slapped them on, didnt replace or turn rotors, they looked clean.

And you obviously didn't read the bedding instructions.

 

[Numnutz]

I disagree with that. New pads definitely need to be broken in. you should never just throw new pads or brakes in general on without testing and proper breaking in to set the new pads to the rotors new or old.

EBC also has a bedding layer on their pads for break in period.

 

[PCT]

And you obviously didn't read the bedding instructions.

Obviously i didnt, because i said "ops" few post later...

 

[doug2013]

Obviously guys... lol

 

[PCT]

Obviously guys... lol

Tots obvi

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