2002 4.7 with 545RFE and 4.56:1.00 trutrac = AWESOME!!!

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Johnny_N_TX

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2002
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4.7 liter V8 with 545RFE (6spd jeep computer)
Just wanted to share my experience thus far with owning and upgrading my Ram:

I inherited a 2002 Ram from my Dad last year. It came with a 4.7, 45RFE (it was originally a 4 spd) and 3.55:1.00 gear with an open diff. The truck was a real pig. It was slow to get up to 65, got horrible fuel economy (16 mpg at 65), and drove like a boat. I decided to take advantage of some time off and upgrade the drivetrain, suspensions and brakes...

I started with the engine. There is basically nothing you can do to the 4.7 without dropping some major coin. I wasn't about to drop $5k-$10k into a truck that was only worth $1500... so I went with a K&N drop in filter (no performance gains, but this eliminates the garbage paper filters) and a diablo programmer. The diablo programmer was actually a nice surprise. The truck had quite a bit more "zing" to it and I dropped about 2 seconds off of my zero to sixty times (although going from 12 seconds to 10 seconds is not all that impressive...LOL). I was running on 265/70R17s at the time (31.5" diameter).

I noticed my tires were cupping really bad so I started looking for cheap tires. I went back and forth with type, brand and size for several days but then ran across some factory, chrome 20"s with brand new 275/60R20s for $600 (cheaper than just buying 4 new tires for the 17" rims). These tires were about 1/2 an inch wider, but they were 33" tall, so I lost my 0-60 times went up again. However, I was getting closer to 18-19 MPG on the highway (dropped from 1700 rpms to 1500 rpms on the highway). This was not good for me because I don't need a truck for low rpm cruising. I need to be able to tow a 7500lbs RV and a 6000lbs boat. Time for some new gears...

I installed a trutrac soft locker along with some 4.56:1.00 gears. This made a HUGE difference in acceleration and RPMs on the highway. My 0-60 went down to 7-8 seconds. It's not fast, but not bad for a 7000 lbs, basically stock 225 hp 4.7 with a slush box transmission). My highway RPMs were up around 2300. Oddly, my fuel economy at 65 was actually not affected. I was getting 20mpg. The engine was operating a more optimal rev range so I didn't need to give it any throttle to stay at that speed. The main thing I didn't like was the transmission started to feel slushier than it did before. I did some research and discovered that this model transmission has a constantly variable feedback loop which controls the torque converter lockup and is actually an variable transmission controlled by the programming of the TCM.

I started looking into options to fix up the transmission performance and discovered you can drop in a factory jeep TCM that will convert a 45RFE to a 545RFE. I now have a "6 spd" transmission in this truck. It has 3 forward gears plus a "prime gear" for low speed passing, and 2 overdrives (25% and 33%). It was a 5 minute swap and made a huge difference in highway RPMs (dropped from 2300 to 2000). I decided to try one more trick with the transmission and installed the sonnax line pressure kit. I was changing the fluid and filter anyway, so when I dropped the pan I installed the spring and then once it was all buttoned back up I installed the harness. I did a full tranny flush (went with lucas full synthetic) and with these upgrades the transmission now has a much crisper feel when making shifts and no longer tries to run the RPMs up to 4k-5k before shifting. The trip computer started reporting 23-24mpg at 65. (WHAT!?!?!?) This has to be from the RPMs dropping to 2000 at 65 with the new 33% overdrive.

I went under the truck and swapped on some hellwig 3500lbs overloads, hellwig HD sway bars, and Bilstein 4600s at all 4 corners. Combined with the new tires, the truck now handles and drives amazing. I did a flush and fill on the the power steering which got rid of the supercharger whine coming from under the hood.

While I had the wheels off I also installed EBC brake pads, did a full fluid flush and changed over to high performance fluid (the old stuff was nasty). This is a huge improvement in stopping power from a very simple upgrade.

When I hook up to my RV, I can feel a major difference in the way the truck feels (no sway, and the back end doesn't squat to the frame rails anymore). The way it pulls the load is even better now because the 4.56s make it feel more like a 2000 lbs load than an 8000 lbs load. I do flash the ECM with the diablo towing tune whenever I hook up to the boat or the RV, and it seems to make a bit of difference in the fuel mix... feels like it is running intentionally rich, but that is probably better for keeping the engine cool under a constant load.

Overall, I am really happy with these upgrades. It pulls as well as my buddies F150 twin turbo does. It's not as fast, but it pulls just as easy. It actually handles better than his new truck and doesn't sway as much (thank you hellwig). I also get the same fuel economy as he does (22 avg empty and 16 avg towing).

I did one other simple upgrade, but it is purely for personal joy... I installed a flowmaster 3", catted Y-pipe (high flow cat) and a 2 chamber (40 series) with a single 3"in and a dual 2.5". The 4.7 sounds really good with a two chamber exhaust. I have been looking at the shorty headers but i haven't gone that far yet. They advertise 20 hp at the rear wheels... but I doubt I'd see any real performance increase from headers. That said, t's a cheap upgrade ($350 for BBK chrome equal length shortys) and I might do it just for the "cool factor".

Cost of upgrades thus far:
Diablo Tuner - $200
K&N - $40
Sonnax trans kit - $60
Tranny flush and fill - $200
TruTrac - $500
Ring and Pinion - $300
Diff Rebuild Kit - $200
Hellwig HD Sway Bar Kit - $400
Hellwig (softride) 3500 lbs overloads - $250
EBC Brake Pads - $200
Brake Flush - $100
Steering Flush - $50
Catted Y-Pipe- $300
Cat Back single to dual - $200

Parts total so far - $3k


Not yet purchased:
BBK Shorty Headers - $350
Header studs and gaskets - $100

I'm also going to gut the interior next week so I can install a new dash assembly. I need to do the AC duct-door upgrades, rewire the doors to fix the broken wires, install a new keyless entry/remote start (the old one doesn't work anymore), install a gauge pod so I can keep a close eye on temps and pressures when towing, a 360 degree driving camera system (records what happens around the vehicle so you have a video record of accidents, road ragers, etc.) as well as back up and entry cameras that will be wired into the new head unit that has a 5" display with a DVD/Bluray player. I'll probably go ahead and install some amps and speakers since the interior will be apart anyway.

This may be the last truck I ever buy. I only drive it when I'm towing and again once a week to keep the seals from shrinking. I am really happy with all my upgrades, and just wanted to put a list out there for anyone else who is wondering what they will get from certain budget friendly mods.

I am going to investigate another transmission mod that will allow me to select which OD is engaged via a dash mounted button. That way I can tow in 1:1, 0.75:1 or 0.67:1 final gear. I still have the factory unit, so I am going to contact a company that flashes these and ask them if there are any unused pins on the plug where I can route a simple ground signal that will let me choose which OD I want to be the final drive ratio. I'll update the thread if/when I am able to make any forward progress on this.

Happy Motoring!
-Johnny
 

Fishstickz

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Nice writeup! This makes the jump to 4.56 gears a little less daunting to me. I was worried that going from 3.55s to 4.56s would drop my MPGs from an already low 15 MPG, but if I get half as good of results as you did I’d be in the green, not to mention it’d be a lot funner to drive lol

Granted the V6 and V8 are a tad different, but hopefully I’d get some similar results. Good luck with the future mods!


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OP
OP
Johnny_N_TX

Johnny_N_TX

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2002
Engine
4.7 liter V8 with 545RFE (6spd jeep computer)
Figure out where the "happy place" is in your RPM range... The 3.7 and 4.7 are basically the same engine with +/- 2 cylinders, so I'd imagine your V6 is happiest between 2100-2500 rpms with less throttle being given (at least for MPGs). I honestly was more concerned with making sure I was just in a higher RPM band when towing so I wouldnt' be "lugging it out" at 1500-1700 rpms. I think that's why the owners manual tells us to turn OD off when towing more than a certain amount of weight. I think on the newer trucks it says "tow mode", rather than OD OFF but it's the exact same effect.

Keep in mind your tire size makes a big difference too. If I were still running 265/70R17s (31.5" tires versus the new 33" nch tires) my engine speed at highway speeds would be about 200 RPMs higher. Here is a link to a good calculator that will help you figure that out.

https://spicerparts.com/calculators/transmission-ratio-rpm-calculator

Pick your gears based on tire size and desired engine speed (RPMs). There are a few things you can do to simulate this... e.g. drive around in 2nd and 3rd gear at lower speeds using the cruise control to see if you get the desired effect on your mileage. I have been using the built in trip computer to gauge it out, as well as hand calcs on a miles per tank basis to verify what the trip computer is telling me. So far it has been within 2%-5% accuracy.

I really don't know why the engineers at Dodge didn't do a little more design work when they built these trucks. It's a small displacement, over-sqaure (bore is larger than the stroke length), V-8... of course the sweet spot for power delivery is higher up in the rev range. Honestly, the 4.7 isn't much of a truck engine. It's more suited to a fullsize car or even a sports car... but I have only ever seen it installed in the Jeep Grand Cherokees, Rams, Dakotas, and Durangos.

I started investigating all kinds of options to make more horsepower, but since i put the new gears in the rear end I don't have any reason to pursue those options anymore.

Oddly, there are several options to supercharge and turbocharge the 3.7 but nothing for the 4.7. How screwed up is that???
 

NOV87

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Well done. Impressive difference. What is "true track soft locker"? Is it just a regular Limited slip?
 

Fishstickz

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Figure out where the "happy place" is in your RPM range... The 3.7 and 4.7 are basically the same engine with +/- 2 cylinders, so I'd imagine your V6 is happiest between 2100-2500 rpms with less throttle being given (at least for MPGs). I honestly was more concerned with making sure I was just in a higher RPM band when towing so I wouldnt' be "lugging it out" at 1500-1700 rpms. I think that's why the owners manual tells us to turn OD off when towing more than a certain amount of weight. I think on the newer trucks it says "tow mode", rather than OD OFF but it's the exact same effect.

Keep in mind your tire size makes a big difference too. If I were still running 265/70R17s (31.5" tires versus the new 33" nch tires) my engine speed at highway speeds would be about 200 RPMs higher. Here is a link to a good calculator that will help you figure that out.

https://spicerparts.com/calculators/transmission-ratio-rpm-calculator

Pick your gears based on tire size and desired engine speed (RPMs). There are a few things you can do to simulate this... e.g. drive around in 2nd and 3rd gear at lower speeds using the cruise control to see if you get the desired effect on your mileage. I have been using the built in trip computer to gauge it out, as well as hand calcs on a miles per tank basis to verify what the trip computer is telling me. So far it has been within 2%-5% accuracy.

I really don't know why the engineers at Dodge didn't do a little more design work when they built these trucks. It's a small displacement, over-sqaure (bore is larger than the stroke length), V-8... of course the sweet spot for power delivery is higher up in the rev range. Honestly, the 4.7 isn't much of a truck engine. It's more suited to a fullsize car or even a sports car... but I have only ever seen it installed in the Jeep Grand Cherokees, Rams, Dakotas, and Durangos.

I started investigating all kinds of options to make more horsepower, but since i put the new gears in the rear end I don't have any reason to pursue those options anymore.

Oddly, there are several options to supercharge and turbocharge the 3.7 but nothing for the 4.7. How screwed up is that???

Yeah I’ve used a couple of calculators and it seems 4.56s would put me about in that ideal RPM range. My main concern isn’t getting towing power, its just about being able to pull itself. As it stands I’m constantly shifting into 3rd just to make it over small hills. Of course being able to tow a small trailer when necessary would be welcomed as well lol

I know on my ‘06, I have both Tow mode and O/D off. On the 02-05’s it seems to vary year-to-year what options those trucks come with. Mine is very different than y’all earlier 3rd gens, but on my
‘06 O/D off just turns off overdrive, while tow mode keeps the truck in each gear longer, I guess to keep temps low. Granted I have a different transmission than you V8 guys do so mine could operate differently

Its funny, I was actually running 265/70r17s as well before upgrading to 33s on 20 inch rims

I agree, I feel like these engines should’ve been a car engine if anything. Not near enough torque down low like a typical truck engine to get anything moving, especially with no gearing advantage. I’m sure they were only built this way for hitting emission standards

Supercharging/turbocharging kits for the 3.7 over the 4.7s is odd. IIRC you HAVE to do major internal work on the 3.7s to handle any sort of boost, not sure if the 4.7s are the same in that regard or not

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HemiLonestar

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I started looking into options to fix up the transmission performance and discovered you can drop in a factory jeep TCM that will convert a 45RFE to a 545RFE. I now have a "6 spd" transmission in this truck. It has 3 forward gears plus a "prime gear" for low speed passing, and 2 overdrives (25% and 33%). It was a 5 minute swap and made a huge difference in highway RPMs (dropped from 2300 to 2000). I decided to try one more trick with the transmission and installed the sonnax line pressure kit. I was changing the fluid and filter anyway, so when I dropped the pan I installed the spring and then once it was all buttoned back up I installed the harness. I did a full tranny flush (went with lucas full synthetic) and with these upgrades the transmission now has a much crisper feel when making shifts and no longer tries to run the RPMs up to 4k-5k before shifting. The trip computer started reporting 23-24mpg at 65. (WHAT!?!?!?) This has to be from the RPMs dropping to 2000 at 65 with the new 33% overdrive.

I'm also going to gut the interior next week so I can install a new dash assembly. I need to do the AC duct-door upgrades, rewire the doors to fix the broken wires, install a new keyless entry/remote start (the old one doesn't work anymore), install a gauge pod so I can keep a close eye on temps and pressures when towing, a 360 degree driving camera system (records what happens around the vehicle so you have a video record of accidents, road ragers, etc.) as well as back up and entry cameras that will be wired into the new head unit that has a 5" display with a DVD/Bluray player. I'll probably go ahead and install some amps and speakers since the interior will be apart anyway.

I am going to investigate another transmission mod that will allow me to select which OD is engaged via a dash mounted button. That way I can tow in 1:1, 0.75:1 or 0.67:1 final gear. I still have the factory unit, so I am going to contact a company that flashes these and ask them if there are any unused pins on the plug where I can route a simple ground signal that will let me choose which OD I want to be the final drive ratio. I'll update the thread if/when I am able to make any forward progress on this.

Happy Motoring!
-Johnny
Nice amount of work! The TCM trick has been a round a LOOOOONG time but it's always nice to see when someone gets to use it to their advantage nowadays. One thing, your trans is now considered a 5sp. 45RFE was a 4sp and the 545 a 5sp, reason for this is that 2P is strictly a kickdown gear (and one you should avoid using if possible), it isn't normally used during regular upshifts. Only one version had that option in the early 4th gens and that was strictly during manual shifting (Autostick). What's important is that it got you the extra overdrive gear. With 5th gear and TC lockup it can really drop the revs, especially with 4.56's. Since you most likely do not have Tow/Haul with the TCM swap, all that button does is lockout OD (both of them, runs 1, 2 & 3 only); it also disables kickdown to 2P. Don't think you'll be able to do what you're planning with manual gear selection, but I'm interested to see if you do. Unfortunately you don't have the best of factory elex to work with lol (or the 2003 hemi would be alot easier to play with).

You didn't post pics, but if you need seat replacements I have a very good condition quad cab set (plus door panels) from my 2003.

Nice writeup! This makes the jump to 4.56 gears a little less daunting to me. I was worried that going from 3.55s to 4.56s would drop my MPGs from an already low 15 MPG, but if I get half as good of results as you did I’d be in the green, not to mention it’d be a lot funner to drive lol

Granted the V6 and V8 are a tad different, but hopefully I’d get some similar results. Good luck with the future mods!

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Your V6 would love it, downside your mileage would suck having a 42RLE (only one OD gear).

Figure out where the "happy place" is in your RPM range... The 3.7 and 4.7 are basically the same engine with +/- 2 cylinders, so I'd imagine your V6 is happiest between 2100-2500 rpms with less throttle being given (at least for MPGs). I honestly was more concerned with making sure I was just in a higher RPM band when towing so I wouldnt' be "lugging it out" at 1500-1700 rpms. I think that's why the owners manual tells us to turn OD off when towing more than a certain amount of weight. I think on the newer trucks it says "tow mode", rather than OD OFF but it's the exact same effect.

Oddly, there are several options to supercharge and turbocharge the 3.7 but nothing for the 4.7. How screwed up is that???
Yes and no. Same family yes, but the 3.7 has a longer stroke than the 4.7 (3.57 vice 3.405) to offset some power loss.
There are several blower options for the 3.6 Pentastar, not the 3.7, two VERY different engines.
 

HemiLonestar

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Come to think of it, I think I have a set of new shorty headers in the garage I'll never use.
 

Fishstickz

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Your V6 would love it, downside your mileage would suck having a 42RLE (only one OD gear).

Well it looks like the RLE's 4th gear is very close to the RFE's 5th gear (0.69 vs. 0.67), so hopefully the mileage won't take too much of a hit. I ran both tranny's through some gear ratio calculators, and it looks like with 33s and 4.56 gears, at cruising speed the RLE would run about 100 RPM higher than a similar RFE-equipped truck. Hopefully real-world numbers end up pretty close to that, cuz 2100 RPM at 65 seems like a solid number to get the V6 over hills without too much of a struggle

With 4.56s I'm hoping to drop the load percentage down from its current number of 100% while in OD and reduce the time spent in third gear. I figure thats where I'm losing all my MPGs lol

The MPG is definitely not why I'm wanting a gear swap, but it would be a very welcome byproduct of the "fun" gears. Whatever happens on I think its safe to say that I'll never see OP's 22 MPG lol. Those are some insanely good numbers out of the 4.7
 

HemiLonestar

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Wonder what a 3.7 with an 8HP45 would be like lol....
 

caulk04

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You're describing what I ended up with in my 02 Dakota several years ago. I sold it in 2014 and miss it dearly.

4.7, 545RFE TCM swap, 4.56 and a detroit locker. Man what fun to play around with.
 
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