Saving for my next mod.. But which one?

[redram2007]

I'm starting to save up for a spring mod and need some opinions on which should be next. I am going to do both eventually but what the best bang for my $$$. Anyways I'm considering a stall converter and a set of race prepped heads P&P with bigger valves. I already know what heads I want but the stall I'm not sure about. The heads are going to accommodate everything that I already have installed ie; 08 intake manifold, 72mm tb, ho cams(which I will send in to regrind when I do heads), headers, free flowing exhaust. Heads are going to cost 1200 and I think a converter will be 600. I'm thinking edge has one of the best but again idk much about them and what size to get. What do you guys think?

 

[0212353]

I think you should call Matt at Moes and have him set one up for ya. He helped me figure out what would work best for my truck

 

[redram2007]

I think you should call Matt at Moes and have him set one up for ya. He helped me figure out what would work best for my truck

A torque converter?

 

[0212353]

yup

 

[KGBIGCOUNTRY]

Im running an Edge 2800 and it woke the truck up pretty dang good. Have done alill towing with it and temps have kept in check. That is about as high as you wanna go towing wise. Circle D makes a verter but its hit and miss on playing nice with our trans.

 

[redram2007]

I do know that my "power band" is right around 3k so a 2800 should do. Is it possible to just purchase the 2800 or is it a customized mod?

 

[redram2007]

Also what is the difference between the 11" billet and the 9.5" pro billet?

 

[KGBIGCOUNTRY]

How the trans will react to the smaller one. The smaller will be less street friendly. When you order it we will ask for a list of mods then the stall is taylored to your truck. The good thing is you already have the heavy cooler.

 

[redram2007]

How the trans will react to the smaller one. The smaller will be less street friendly. When you order it we will ask for a list of mods then the stall is taylored to your truck. The good thing is you already have the heavy cooler.

Sweet. Is this something I can do in my garage? I don't trust many shops bc they're shady, plus I like to be the only one who touches my truck unless its something I simply couldn't do.

 

[KGBIGCOUNTRY]

Yes you can do it in your garage if your good with a wrench and have the area to do it. If you decide to go that route and have not done a converter before mark the housing before you pull the OEM one and also make sure it engages all 3 spline sets. If you do not fully seat it you will damage the trans. it me up when you get it and I can help walk ya through it.

 

[redram2007]

I have pulled a few RWD and FWD transmissions but never a 4x4 except on a military HMMWV which was a piece of cake. Is it tough pulling the trans on these trucks? Another thing is my exhaust is welded from collectors to tips, I will probably have to cut it and weld it back together right?

 

[KGBIGCOUNTRY]

Yes you will prob have to cut it inless there is enough wiggle room. We unclamped most of mine when we did it. Its up to you on pulling the t-case off the trans or leaving it. When we did mine we could turn the trans enough without fully dropping it and swapped the verters on the trans jack. I had to fight torsion bars and the stupid carrier plate dodge put on 03-05 1500 4x4 hemi's, you should have more room to play with.

 

[redram2007]

Awesome. Once I'm ready I will get a hold of you and or Matt to get one made. Thanks for the help.

 

[ST-8]

3 clicks an your golden. Tho my 2wd was pretty easy

 

[TylerB]

I put a straight edge across the bell housing and measure the depth to the center of the converter before removing the stocker then check the new after sliding it on.

 

[redram2007]

I put a straight edge across the bell housing and measure the depth to the center of the converter before removing the stocker then check the new after sliding it on.

That's a pretty good fail safe method.

 

[ST-8]

Yea Tyler has got converter swaps down pat

 

[redram2007]

I put a straight edge across the bell housing and measure the depth to the center of the converter before removing the stocker then check the new after sliding it on.

Do you just separate the engine and trans enough to work or do you drop the whole thing?

 

[TylerB]

You gotta lower it some to clear the trans tunnel in the body to pull it away far enough to get the converter out and in.

 

[KGBIGCOUNTRY]

For a 4x4 just undo both front and rear drive shafts then its the same as a 2wd just with the transfer case on the tail of the trans. Long extentions (3 foot) are your friend for the top bell housing bolts, only other thing to make sure stays put is the thin metal spacer between the trans and engine. It sits on dowel pins so if it moves just slide it back on.