Electrical problems - remove truck bed for access or is there an easier way?

[DWagnerIowa]

1997 DODGE RAM 1500 SHORT BED/CREW CAB (5.9L) MAGNUM V8 230HP

Having wiring problems. Fuel Gauge had always been acting up, never reading more than half full, but then it started swinging wildly and bottoming out. Next, my left taillight assembly started going out, but jiggling the wires behind the bumper worked - for a while. Now, the fuel pump is out. We have a very well-known problem in the neighborhood with rodents chewing up the wiring, and I've also had gorund wire problems, so I wanted to inspect and clean up everything.

Tried to remove the bed to get to things, but having no luck at all freeing the four bolts near the tailgate - the ones that can only be reached with a long extension. Penetrating oil sprayed at the bolts from underneath never soaks up to the threads. Watching videos, I see some variations in how the bed is bolted but on mine, these bolts are not accessible from the top (the two bolts near the cab are accessible from above and the oil soaked right in, but the oil I sprayed at the bolt head from underneath never penetrated).

So first off, am I overthinking that removing the bed is the best choice for making things easier? It just seems like it.

And secondly, is there a clever way to get penetrating oil into the four bolts, and if not, how do I even get to them to shear the heads off?

Any and all suggestions would be deeply appreciated.

 

[rzr6-4]

Doing so on a lift was a big help but I dropped the tank a few inches when I did mine. Couple bolts the get the straps off and disconnect the filler neck, simple enough.

 

[DWagnerIowa]

Doing so on a lift was a big help but I dropped the tank a few inches when I did mine. Couple bolts the get the straps off and disconnect the filler neck, simple enough.

Since my fuel guage was not functioning, I always kept the tank topped off, so that's quite a weight, but I did want to hear that lowering the tank a bit gave adequate access to the wiring.

 

[rzr6-4]

Since my fuel guage was not functioning, I always kept the tank topped off, so that's quite a weight, but I did want to hear that lowering the tank a bit gave adequate access to the wiring.

To be clear, that's how I got to the fuel pump and it's wiring, I think the tail light wires run along the frame so dropping the tank may help give you access to those wires as well but no garuntees.

 

[Hagar1]

1997 DODGE RAM 1500 SHORT BED/CREW CAB (5.9L) MAGNUM V8 230HP

Having wiring problems. Fuel Gauge had always been acting up, never reading more than half full, but then it started swinging wildly and bottoming out. Next, my left taillight assembly started going out, but jiggling the wires behind the bumper worked - for a while. Now, the fuel pump is out. We have a very well-known problem in the neighborhood with rodents chewing up the wiring, and I've also had gorund wire problems, so I wanted to inspect and clean up everything.

Tried to remove the bed to get to things, but having no luck at all freeing the four bolts near the tailgate - the ones that can only be reached with a long extension. Penetrating oil sprayed at the bolts from underneath never soaks up to the threads. Watching videos, I see some variations in how the bed is bolted but on mine, these bolts are not accessible from the top (the two bolts near the cab are accessible from above and the oil soaked right in, but the oil I sprayed at the bolt head from underneath never penetrated).

So first off, am I overthinking that removing the bed is the best choice for making things easier? It just seems like it.

And secondly, is there a clever way to get penetrating oil into the four bolts, and if not, how do I even get to them to shear the heads off?

Any and all suggestions would be deeply appreciated.

I knew a guy that just cut a hole in the floor of the truck bed. Weld it up when done. It worked for him.

 

[DWagnerIowa]

I knew a guy that just cut a hole in the floor of the truck bed. Weld it up when done. It worked for him.

I had heard of that. Would like to hear from soemone who has actually done it. I have visions of getting a Darwin award for using an angle grinder just inches from a tank of gas. But maybe lower the tank out of the way and cover it with a welding blanket?

 

[Hagar1]

I had heard of that. Would like to hear from soemone who has actually done it. I have visions of getting a Darwin award for using an angle grinder just inches from a tank of gas. But maybe lower the tank out of the way and cover it with a welding blanket?

Is there a fuel leak? Can you smell gas?

I see it as a lot easier than lifting the truck bed. A few minutes with a MIG welder, a grinder and a splash of paint and it is done.
The factory should have put an access panel there.

 

[DWagnerIowa]

Is there a fuel leak? Can you smell gas?

I see it as a lot easier than lifting the truck bed. A few minutes with a MIG welder, a grinder and a splash of paint and it is done.
The factory should have put an access panel there.

No fuel leak. It's just something I didn't want to assume was a wise thing to do. It does seem like a very direct approach to fixing the problem.

So should I lower the gas tank, or can I cut a hole with the tank in place?

 

[Dean2]

I had heard of that. Would like to hear from soemone who has actually done it. I have visions of getting a Darwin award for using an angle grinder just inches from a tank of gas. But maybe lower the tank out of the way and cover it with a welding blanket?

A drill and a hand hacksaw produce no sparks. No reason to use an angle grinder close to a 25 gallon bomb. Even if 20 before you got away with it, not a smart idea. Five gallons of gas is the equivalent of a dozen sticks of dynamite. Just because we are around it every day does not mean it isn't dangerous.

You can turn the access hatch into a permanent access panel with little work and again, you don't need to weld close to the gas. If you are going to use an angle grinder and welder, drain as much gas as you can, remove tank completely, then do the work.

 

[Hagar1]

A drill and a hand hacksaw produce no sparks. No reason to use an angle grinder close to a 25 gallon bomb. Even if 20 before you got away with it, not a smart idea. Five gallons of gas is the equivalent of a dozen sticks of dynamite. Just because we are around it every day does not mean it isn't dangerous.

You can turn the access hatch into a permanent access panel with little work and again, you don't need to weld close to the gas. If you are going to use an angle grinder and welder, drain as much gas as you can, remove tank completely, then do the work.

A full tank is far less likely to explode. It the vapours that will explode, the liquid gas will just burn. I once saw a fellow arc weld the gas tank on a Highway Tractor, no problem.
I knew a guy that wanted to remove the front step from his house, about a cup full of gas, a short wait, a little trail of gas for a fuse and when it went off, the front step did a neat 3 1/2 tumble across the front yard.
There is an example of liquid vs vapour.

 

[Dean2]

A full tank is far less likely to explode. It the vapours that will explode, the liquid gas will just burn. I once saw a fellow arc weld the gas tank on a Highway Tractor, no problem.
I knew a guy that wanted to remove the front step from his house, about a cup full of gas, a short wait, a little trail of gas for a fuse and when it went off, the front step did a neat 3 1/2 tumble across the front yard.
There is an example of liquid vs vapour.

All true. When I was young and stupid we used to think it was great fun to flip a lit cigarrette butt into the pail of gas a newbie was using to wash crude oil off pipe threads. Cigarette just goes out in the gas, as long as it is less than 45 F outside, however it sure makes the newbie run like hell. Try the same thing at 80 F, whole different outcome.

Every gas tank has a vent and those vent vapour. So you have to be pretty brain dead to be tossing sparks and flame into a gas vapour rich environemnt. Liquid gas enclosed in a sealed tank, no tank is ever 100% full, doesn't just burn, it will blevy with enough heat and vapour.

 

[PolarisCobra]

I would siphon as much as I can out of the tank, and lower it. Put a jack underneath, so you can lower it slowly.

 

[Hagar1]

All true. When I was young and stupid we used to think it was great fun to flip a lit cigarrette butt into the pail of gas a newbie was using to wash crude oil off pipe threads. Cigarette just goes out in the gas, as long as it is less than 45 F outside, however it sure makes the newbie run like hell. Try the same thing at 80 F, whole different outcome.

Every gas tank has a vent and those vent vapour. So you have to be pretty brain dead to be tossing sparks and flame into a gas vapour rich environemnt. Liquid gas enclosed in a sealed tank, no tank is ever 100% full, doesn't just burn, it will blevy with enough heat and vapour.

I worked for a fellow at a service station back in the late 1960s and one staff member was terrified of the little wash tank that we had. I used just regular gas for the solvent. The boss would throw a lit match into the the wash tank and every time it would go out. He did this IN the shop, crazy as H... but he got away with it.
The fuel systems of today are vented through a charcoal cannister that is typically away from the tank. My first choice would be to drop the tank but if the pump / sending unit needed work and the tank was full, well .......... there are options.

 

[Marshall]

I messed around with a couple small and smaller hoses and no way could I get it into the gas tank on the truck or car. Was thinking about extra gas for the standby power plant for power outages in town if everything is shut down.

My luck with the gas to move front steps, the steps would be there and the basement wall would be in the basement, then the wife would be hunting up one of my shotguns.
Btw here is how farm boys get at the fuel pump when the shop is full and tank is full
Works fine he said , everything is chained to truck so the engine lift can’t move.

 

[BobsToyShopinSC]

I had to put a fuel pump and gauge unit in my E350 based class C motorhome. I backed it in my 2 post lift and put the arms under the gas tank which was almost full. Ran the lift pads up against the bottom of the tank, took the straps off and dropped the tank enough to do the work. Made sure not to move the tank on the lift or the motorhome during the process. Lifted it back up with the lift in the exact spot it was in before and put the straps back on. Of course you need a lift available to do this.

 

[DWagnerIowa]

Thanks, everyone, for the suggestions.

 

[Tank Guy]

Sending unit problems are nothing new on these trucks. I'm on my third one in my 98, but my truck is almost 28 years old, so I'm getting about ten years or so out of them. Living in Los Angeles until recently I've never had any trouble getting the bed mounting bolts out, but I've only taken them out of the left side for access to the top of the tank. If the bolts on the right side can be backed way off, then the bed can be tilted up out of the way and propped with a two by four while you work. Having bolts rusted into place really complicates things for you. So much so that I'd consider having a shop extract them and replace them with new hardware, then keep that hardware greased by periodically removing the bolts and re-greasing them. It makes a huge difference for stuff like this.

 

[Area 51]

I need to replace my fuel level sender unit. I already bought a Fleece unit. I thought about cutting the bed as mentioned. But why weld it up again? I figured I'd cut it out very accurately and then make it so I could bolt the piece back on - so it could be pulled again if needed.