retiredfireman
Senior Member
Ok, so I go with Moe's Performance to get the Stage II valve body.
You get a valve body without the solenoid- since you don't want to use old electronics- and proceed to change it out.
I was extremely fortunate to have a friend who has a shop and a lift- 10x easier than lying on the ground:
Before I sent it up, I disconnected the battery negative lead.
Then the connector to the solenoid is taken off, simple clip with a cam style connector, it comes right up off.
Then, I removed all of the trans pan bolts - 8 mm- EXCEPT the front center and rear two bolts, then crack the seal and let it drain:
Then remove those remaining bolts and drain it out.
NOTE_ this will make a HUGE mess if you're not ready.
I had a large container with the proper pan for the trans, and it still splashed out.
Then remove the flat filter- it uses a Torx 25 bolt.
The remove the Primary filter that's a small oil filter wrench.
That leaves the valve body dripping away.
Remove the 6 - 8mm bolts holding that in and wiggle it out- it will kind of be hung up on the solenoid connector so have 4 hands on it.
Once out- I took it over to the bench and removed the 15 Torx 25 bolts that hold in the solenoid and transferred it to the new valve body:
I installed the solenoid to the valve body making sure the selector lever is in the same spot as the one that came out.
Then I just reversed the process- valve body back in, filters installed, pan replaced.
Here it is all buttoned up:
Then I used Mopar RTV that I got when I purchased all the fluid and filters:
I used all stock torque values for the bolts, using this- best investment for the job ( and made in my home state of Maryland too! ):
You get a valve body without the solenoid- since you don't want to use old electronics- and proceed to change it out.
I was extremely fortunate to have a friend who has a shop and a lift- 10x easier than lying on the ground:
Before I sent it up, I disconnected the battery negative lead.
Then the connector to the solenoid is taken off, simple clip with a cam style connector, it comes right up off.
Then, I removed all of the trans pan bolts - 8 mm- EXCEPT the front center and rear two bolts, then crack the seal and let it drain:
Then remove those remaining bolts and drain it out.
NOTE_ this will make a HUGE mess if you're not ready.
I had a large container with the proper pan for the trans, and it still splashed out.
Then remove the flat filter- it uses a Torx 25 bolt.
The remove the Primary filter that's a small oil filter wrench.
That leaves the valve body dripping away.
Remove the 6 - 8mm bolts holding that in and wiggle it out- it will kind of be hung up on the solenoid connector so have 4 hands on it.
Once out- I took it over to the bench and removed the 15 Torx 25 bolts that hold in the solenoid and transferred it to the new valve body:
I installed the solenoid to the valve body making sure the selector lever is in the same spot as the one that came out.
Then I just reversed the process- valve body back in, filters installed, pan replaced.
Here it is all buttoned up:
Then I used Mopar RTV that I got when I purchased all the fluid and filters:
I used all stock torque values for the bolts, using this- best investment for the job ( and made in my home state of Maryland too! ):
