Should I Add The OEM Trailer Braking Module And Get Alfa OBD, Or Go 3rd-Party?

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Random_Walk

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Yes, it's been forever since I posted. Sorry, life kidnapped me :)

Specs should still be sitting on the left, so under those specs...

I'm angling to get a Forest River trailer, model is a No Boundaries 19.2 . Dry weight is 3600 lbs, and I won't dare (and I doubt that) I put on more than 600 lbs or so of cargo (because any more than that would blow right past my puny max tow of 4400 lbs.)

So - all the research keeps saying that I can slap in the OEM controller, and w/o flashing the truck, it should work out-of-the-box, but just blind (meaning you won't see anything on any screen, but the controller would work anyway.) Is that true, or will I need to reach for OBD Alfa (or -bleah- go to the dealership)?

Otherwise, what brand of 3rd-party bolt-on controller works best with a 2017-vintage 1500 that plug-and-plays right into the existing harness wiring (so I don't have to duplicate efforts)?
 
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Gordo2212

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The brake controller will not work unless you enable it with Alpha or have the dealer flash the code. The module is a giant pain in the ass to install FYI.

The dry weight they tell you online doesn't account for propane, WDH or anything you put in the camper. Sounds like you're cutting it pretty close with this set up.
 

chri5k

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My truck came with the factory controller. I unplugged it and tried a Tekonsha P3. Never could get the P3/trailer brakes to sync with the truck brakes very well. Went back to the factory controller, the braking was synchronized and very smooth. The factory controller is a Pulse Width Modulation (PWM) device so it pulses the trailer much the way ABS pulses the truck brakes in an emergency stop. This helps avoid locking up the trailer brakes during emergency braking and contributes to their smoothness during regular usage.
 

06 Dodge

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some ideas, other than OEM

Installed one of these on my 06 2500 CTD, it worked well right out of the box
 

09SilverRam

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I have a Redarc tow pro elite controller and I have liked it. The box is hidden under the dash and I replaced the 12v plug on the drivers side with the knob.
 

stevenP

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I have had four fifth wheels over some years. Honestly the OEM IBC, worked okay on one of the rigs, but didnt work at all on the other three worth a hoot. I went with a tekonsha prodigy P3. If you get the adaptor wiring harness it plugged into the stock under dash loom.... and was installed in 20 minutes. Worked great!
 

gofishn

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Had both, OEM And aftermarkte,rt over the last few decades.
Unless you desire and your truck even has, the length dash info and stuff, get 3rd party and be done with it.

Never realized you had a V6 in that truck.Keep your trips short, refresh your coolant system and change oil tranny fluid often.

You are going to be over max pull weight.
accept it, deal with it and move on with your life.

Amx tow eight is nothign more than what the factory was willling to let you tow and warranty for 36 months.
years ag, in Twoing wars among manufacturers, Ford let slip what their numbers were oging to be. Think it was toyota that came out a 100lbs more,
Ford actuallyc ame out with 5000lbs less or somthing, let toyotw win teh tow eeight battle and cost them millions, and a tond of PO Customers, when those enignes anda drivetraisn started puking all ove teh place.

Really, kinda of funny.

Ford even tell people, go buy the toyota, we will see in 36 months, if you can accept all the warranty "down time", that long.
 

jvbuttex

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i added the OEM module to my 1500. Yes you need to enable it in the computer. Yes it worked well for my 6klb TT we have. Now i have a 2500 stock with the OEM controller. I still like it.
 
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Random_Walk

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I want to thank you fine folks for chiming in!

I went with the Tekonsha P3 (and the adapter harness) - after watching the install videos for various solutions, it was the easiest to put in (one screw, no panel removals, etc).

As for tow limits, yep, it'll be pretty close (though I'll actually have 800lb of leeway from dry weight to the truck's max) - and I'll have to watch the weight to insure it doesn't go over (e.g. 240lb of water in a full tank, 60lb propane if I up-mod that from 20lb into a dual 30lb rig, etc.) I can also employ a few tricks to transfer weight from the hitch to the payload (e.g. propane tanks and chock gear can go into the bed, etc.) Ultimate max tongue weight for the trailer is 480lb, and the truck's max is 440, so even if I did go to the trailer's max, it's only a 40lb diff on the tongue.

I'm just glad I got the 2022 model trailer, because the new 2023 model with its enhanced suspension rigging would definitely blow over limit, even dry.

Amx tow eight is nothign more than what the factory was willling to let you tow and warranty for 36 months.

I'm just past powertrain warranty anyway (62k miles), let alone the B2B one, so I'm not too worried about that anymore... :) Like you mentioned though, the only real sweating will be in the drivetrain - the frame will be perfectly fine, and in fact can handle 2.5x the total tow weight. The Class III hitch can do almost double my max. As long as I don't get stupid on the gas pedal and I keep an eye on the temp gauges, I should be within limits and do just fine.

But yeah, I get what you're saying, a lot of it is juggling numbers while under constraint of SAE J2807 ... and yeah, each OEM has a different tolerance for skirting it on max tow advertisements, but I firmly suspect they tend to leave bigger margins and push downwards a bit in the less tow-oriented packages/riggings.
 
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Random_Walk

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PS:

20230218_113007.jpg
 

GTyankee

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are my eyes deceiving me ?

did you write that you have a CLASS 3 Hitch Receiver ?

that is a shame, if that is all you have
 
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Random_Walk

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Nah... it's comfortably more than the truck limit, which will suffice nicely.
 

turkeybird56

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I would go OEM, but that is just me. OEM on my ED and I made dealer put in OEM on MY 19 guaranteed before I would commit to buy.
 

GTyankee

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there are 2 types of Class 3 Hitch Receivers

Frame mounted & Sub Frame mounted

Sub Frame mounted only Class 3
e98852_7_250.jpg

Frame Mounted Class 3

1676853955235.png
This one is bolted to the trucks main frame rails & the sub frame too

Class 4 is also Frame mounted, just heavier duty
 

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rvance

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The brake controller will not work unless you enable it with Alpha or have the dealer flash the code. The module is a giant pain in the ass to install FYI.

The dry weight they tell you online doesn't account for propane, WDH or anything you put in the camper. Sounds like you're cutting it pretty close with this set up.
I installed mine at age 70. The only hard part is getting under the dash at my age.
 

rvance

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The OEM is the only way to go. Any of the others will keep hitting your knee. Easy to install too.
 

Makintrax01

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What are the steps needed in AlfaOBD to install the OEM trailer brake controller?
 

Vicman

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I put the OEM in my 16PW. As mentioned the under dash mounting is a PIA, I ended up using nylon washers for vibration isolation and pop riveting that guy in place instead of messing around with the screws washers and nuts.
It's been perfect for the last going on 7 years and super clean factory look in the dash. The harness was already there to plug into.
Yeah, I had the dealer flash it, they were kind enough to do it for free since I bought the module from them.
 
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