So over it...

[Redtruck-VA]

Since it is not fixed, they absolutely mis-diagnosed the problem. Does this engine feed oil to the lifters from the rocker arms? If so it could be a blocked push rod keeping a lifter from pumping up. This would go along with them saying there is sludge in the engine. With them changing the lifters they had to remove the push rods, so I assume they inspected the push rods for wear and cleaned them out. As miles add up the valves sits deeper into the seat increasing lifter preload. Clatter is a lifter not pumped up or the lack of preload. I don't see how rebuilding the heads are going to do anything other than possibly be an excuse to go back in to clean the rocker arm assembly and push rods if they didn't do it the first round. This pretty much in my mind is a oil feed problem since the lifters were replaced already. It would be interesting to see what this looked like going into the engine, ie was the engine sludge up, still wet with oil, dry, general condition of the bits and pieces. These things tell the mechanic what to look for during a repair. I would ask them specifically "what do they expect to accomplish by doing the heads?" Did a cylinder test indicate there is a leaking cylinder showing bad valves? Good luck and keep us posted.

 

[HolyRamBatman]

Something don't sound right. What kind of used engine did they give you. Did they inspect it before they put it in.

 

[PinkCamoDodge]

Thanks for all of the input guys. I was referred to a reputable shop a little distance away. I am going to the shop my truck is at now tomorrow morning to have the truck towed to the new place. He is going to look at it right away once it gets there. I filled him in on all the backround info. He said they SHOULD have looked over the used engine they were installing and if it looked that bad they should have sent it back, or at least he saids that's what he would have done. I dunno. I will definately keep you guys updated though.....

 

[WhiteExpress]

I'm sorry you're going through all of this. A shop should not have sold you a used motor and installed it without going through it. But if they never claimed to have gone through it, there isn't a whole lot you can do either.

Once day you'll get it all back together. Have faith!

 

[PinkCamoDodge]

Thank you.

Well. Tomorrow it's getting towed to the new place.

Here's the minimal noted that were on my invoice that I recieved today after having to pay a bill of $256.63 frikking dollars:

Evap system has small leak, engine is cold too long, has misfire (could be idle problem), cap % rotor, wires and plugs in horrible shape, hass miss so performed compression test. Heads need to be reworked.

:/

 

[emjohn4]

I guess if it were me, I'd leave it at the origional shop.

Where is their warranty on the replaced engine?

How long ago did you get the engine replaced with the junkyard one? How did you pay (credit card)?

I'd also consider contacting the BBB, your states attorney general, and perhaps a lawyer. It seems that they put a defective engine in your truck, and are attempting to stick you with the bill for their screw up.

Keep all your receipts, document every phone call, conversation, and detail.

 

[WhiteExpress]

If you knew they were putting in a used motor, you don't have a leg to stand on.
I wish you the best of luck.

Why you would perform a compression test for a miss..? If the cap and rotor look bad, and it's got a miss... Come on now. Sounds like you might need a basic tune up and a can or two of engine flush.

 

[emjohn4]

If you knew they were putting in a used motor, you don't have a leg to stand on.
I wish you the best of luck.

Why you would perform a compression test for a miss..? If the cap and rotor look bad, and it's got a miss... Come on now. Sounds like you might need a basic tune up and a can or two of engine flush.

If no specific warranty was provided - she may have a case for implied warranty.

When you take your truck to the shop to have a replacement engine installed (used or otherwise) it is reasonable to expect it to run for the near future. A year later - all bets are off - hence why I asked how long ago it was installed.

In common law jurisdictions, an implied warranty is a contract law term for certain assurances that are presumed to be made in the sale of products or real property, due to the circumstances of the sale. These assurances are characterized as warranties irrespective of whether the seller has expressly promised them ****** or in writing. They include an implied warranty of fitness for a particular purpose, an implied warranty of merchantability for products, implied warranty of workmanlike quality for services, and an implied warranty of habitability for a home.

Take specific note of the highlighted portion, above. I would argue that a particular purpose for an engine is to run properly - which her engine does not.

Additionally - any shop warranty (if given) would also be a method of recourse.

 

[PinkCamoDodge]

The used motor had a 90 day warranty. The shop's labor warranty on the engine was supposed to last x,000 miles from the time of install ...going to go grab my record book now to see the exact amount.

Maybe this is why they were saying it was all kinds of other thing? Because they didn't want to do 'free labor' on repaiting the engine?

Didn't hear anything from the new shop that it's at. I'll be calling him tomorrow....

 

[PinkCamoDodge]

If this guy tells me it needs a new engine I'm probably going to put it up for sale as-is. Have NO CLUE what I'd value it at though. My tires are brand new all terrains and costed my $140 a piece....the body and interior except the dash of course is in great condition. UGH I hate to think worst case scenario but I've been getting nothing but bad news. I hope it does turn out to be something simple. The first shop it was at changed out said they actually did a tune up, but that it didn't work.

 

[Muddytazz]

I would send the old shop the new shops bill for their **** up.

 

[emjohn4]

Where are you located?

 

[fonzyn75]

talk about getting screwed...sorry to hear

 

[Redtruck-VA]

Lets hope the second shop nails down the issues without a lot of BS. Good luck...

 

[Merc225hp]

Some info for you.

The Magnum heads are prone to cracking between the valves, so chances are good the heads are shot. This will cause a lack of comp resulting in a missfire. Two opt here one is to just find a good set of heads and bolt them on and go, second is buy a thicker cast head available on the web for around $400 for the pair ready to bolt on.

Next Magnum lifters can be a real pita to load up at times, new Mopar Performance lifters can be bought for around $100, cheaper than just stock replacement lifters (roller lifters part # P5249862. You can take apart the lifters and clean them but very time consuming.

Next the oil pickup tube on these motors like to plug up with sludge, blocking off oil flow.

Has either shop done a mech oil psi test as of yet?? if not its time to have it done as long as the heads are still on the motor.

What type of oil and what weight of oil are you using in the motor? some that have had this lifter tick have gone back to dino 10w30 oil and the tick stopped. Some had gone to a synthetic oil resulting in a lifter that would not load up.

Post up the shops finding of the comp test when you get them, odd's are it will be jug #8.

Do you still have a cat-converter in the exhaust system? new old?

If this was me I would be looking for another used motor, but this time it must be accompanied with comp test numbers and oil psi test numbers.

Best of luck, remember you are a PAYING customer!

 

[harv65]

any update on her

 

[HolyRamBatman]

No updates yet. Anyone hello.........

 

[chuck]