'06 Ram 2500
Member
Have you tried to machine down the extractor OD? Seems easier to make it fit. I’ve done this before on other applications. If it splits then try the next step.
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Have you tried to machine down the extractor OD? Seems easier to make it fit. I’ve done this before on other applications. If it splits then try the next step.
That is a great idea but I do not have access to a lathe. I will ask around and see if I can find one. Thank you.
A short history...
A few years ago I bought a 2012 Ram 2500 HD Power Wagon with a 5.7L Hemi. Immediately after buying it, the exhaust manifold started leaking. Come to find out that the previous owner/shop had pieced it together and made it run well enough to sell. The bolts had been run-in with a pneumatic gun so some of the bolts had to be extracted, some needed helicoils, and the manifold needed to be replaced as well.
The oil pan gasket needs to be changed, there is a rattle in the front left, transmission needs to be serviced, spark plug seals need to be replaced, and yada yada...It's a lemon but it is still a nice truck. Once I get the little things no one ever did, it should run fine but every time I try to fix one thing, I find another...lol.
I am at the point of a tune-up now. I have replaced the tires, fixed the manifold issues, and had one spark plug seal replaced. My issue is that the spark plug nut is stripped. From what little of it I can see, it looks like someone tried pounding a socket on it and just demolished it. How can I get it out?
I need to replace all the spark plug seals myself anyways. Does removing the valve cover allow for better access? I tried the deep socket extractor set but the 5/8 is to thick for the hole.
You say stripped.... do you mean the flats have been rounded?
You say stripped.... do you mean the flats have been rounded?
Try a 15mm 12 point socket and see if you can beat it on.Dang I had same problem today on my cylinder 8. Spark plug bomt head is stripped and I couldn't get a bite on it with anything I have. Tried a 15 but it's too small. I remover the manifold cover to get some more room to try tapping the 15 on but no go.
I'll have to try a reverse extractor or something I see online.
So annoying, just had to finish up and put it all back together.
No codes thankfully (almost good as new)
Only COPPER based antisieze, the nickle based stuff can make, ife very miserable when it comes time for removal. Nickle antisieze cost me hundreds on a plane I had years ago. The nickle antisieze "locked" the sparkplug to the insert and it tore out of the cylinder head. Lesson learned.sorry to hear it, thus is why especially with hemi's you should put some anti seize on the plugs. It is a very corrosive environment, maybe back off a couple torques if you use seize.
I think you had other issues besides the anti-seaze,like over torqued or cross threaded come to mind. I like the grey molybdenum disulfide high temp anti-seaze,as it works very well on plugsOnly COPPER based antisieze, the nickle based stuff can make, ife very miserable when it comes time for removal. Nickle antisieze cost me hundreds on a plane I had years ago. The nickle antisieze "locked" the sparkplug to the insert and it tore out of the cylinder head. Lesson learned.
No, it was the Nickle stuff, I did all that kind of work myself, oil changes, spark plug and all other light maintenance. I firmly believe in torque wrenches. The only "variable" was the Nickle based anti seize. Used it only twice .... first and last. Because of age, all the airplane stuff is behind me now.I think you had other issues besides the anti-seaze,like over torqued or cross threaded come to mind. I like the grey molybdenum disulfide high temp anti-seaze,as it works very well on plugs
Breaking the insulator off cleanly while the plug is buried in the plug hole,is easier said then doneDesperate times call for desperate measures snap the insulator off and drill out the hole and then use an ez out