Spark Plug Nut Stripped

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'06 Ram 2500

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Have you tried to machine down the extractor OD? Seems easier to make it fit. I’ve done this before on other applications. If it splits then try the next step.
 

tomb

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Just gotta say that this forum is so helpful to us all--many of the members know their stuff and are so willing to provide their knowledge to keep us on the road with our trucks without always having to go to a dealership or mechanic unless we are out of our scope of abilities. I learn so much here. Cheers and be safe!!!
 
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Abooza69

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Have you tried to machine down the extractor OD? Seems easier to make it fit. I’ve done this before on other applications. If it splits then try the next step.

That is a great idea but I do not have access to a lathe. I will ask around and see if I can find one. Thank you.
 

Sherman Bird

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A short history...

A few years ago I bought a 2012 Ram 2500 HD Power Wagon with a 5.7L Hemi. Immediately after buying it, the exhaust manifold started leaking. Come to find out that the previous owner/shop had pieced it together and made it run well enough to sell. The bolts had been run-in with a pneumatic gun so some of the bolts had to be extracted, some needed helicoils, and the manifold needed to be replaced as well.
The oil pan gasket needs to be changed, there is a rattle in the front left, transmission needs to be serviced, spark plug seals need to be replaced, and yada yada...It's a lemon but it is still a nice truck. Once I get the little things no one ever did, it should run fine but every time I try to fix one thing, I find another...lol.

I am at the point of a tune-up now. I have replaced the tires, fixed the manifold issues, and had one spark plug seal replaced. My issue is that the spark plug nut is stripped. From what little of it I can see, it looks like someone tried pounding a socket on it and just demolished it. How can I get it out?
I need to replace all the spark plug seals myself anyways. Does removing the valve cover allow for better access? I tried the deep socket extractor set but the 5/8 is to thick for the hole.

You say stripped.... do you mean the flats have been rounded?
 
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Abooza69

Abooza69

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You say stripped.... do you mean the flats have been rounded?

Yes, that is what it looks like. I can't get a good look right now but I will try again when I can take it apart. It is 108 degrees today and will not be cooling down for the next week.
 

DripJust

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Dang I had same problem today on my cylinder 8. Spark plug bomt head is stripped and I couldn't get a bite on it with anything I have. Tried a 15 but it's too small. I remover the manifold cover to get some more room to try tapping the 15 on but no go.
I'll have to try a reverse extractor or something I see online.
So annoying, just had to finish up and put it all back together.
No codes thankfully (almost good as new)
 

Dean2

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I will be interested to hear how this works out. If heating the 15mm socket doesn't get the job done, I would be of a mind to just pull the head. Drilling etc risks doing way more damage than you are trying to fix. Also lets you check valves seats, springs etc. If you find any issues, pull the other head and do them too.
 

Wild one

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Dang I had same problem today on my cylinder 8. Spark plug bomt head is stripped and I couldn't get a bite on it with anything I have. Tried a 15 but it's too small. I remover the manifold cover to get some more room to try tapping the 15 on but no go.
I'll have to try a reverse extractor or something I see online.
So annoying, just had to finish up and put it all back together.
No codes thankfully (almost good as new)
Try a 15mm 12 point socket and see if you can beat it on.

 

Hagar1

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sorry to hear it, thus is why especially with hemi's you should put some anti seize on the plugs. It is a very corrosive environment, maybe back off a couple torques if you use seize.
Only COPPER based antisieze, the nickle based stuff can make, ife very miserable when it comes time for removal. Nickle antisieze cost me hundreds on a plane I had years ago. The nickle antisieze "locked" the sparkplug to the insert and it tore out of the cylinder head. Lesson learned.
 

Wild one

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Only COPPER based antisieze, the nickle based stuff can make, ife very miserable when it comes time for removal. Nickle antisieze cost me hundreds on a plane I had years ago. The nickle antisieze "locked" the sparkplug to the insert and it tore out of the cylinder head. Lesson learned.
I think you had other issues besides the anti-seaze,like over torqued or cross threaded come to mind. I like the grey molybdenum disulfide high temp anti-seaze,as it works very well on plugs
 

Hagar1

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I think you had other issues besides the anti-seaze,like over torqued or cross threaded come to mind. I like the grey molybdenum disulfide high temp anti-seaze,as it works very well on plugs
No, it was the Nickle stuff, I did all that kind of work myself, oil changes, spark plug and all other light maintenance. I firmly believe in torque wrenches. The only "variable" was the Nickle based anti seize. Used it only twice .... first and last. Because of age, all the airplane stuff is behind me now.
 

4xdad

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Desperate times call for desperate measures snap the insulator off and drill out the hole and then use an ez out
 

Wild one

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Desperate times call for desperate measures snap the insulator off and drill out the hole and then use an ez out
Breaking the insulator off cleanly while the plug is buried in the plug hole,is easier said then done ;) Then you have the issues of the porcelain pieces on the plug itself falling into the cylinder,as you're gonna have to knock them out to to get an easy out into the plug body,that'd be a very last resort after you've removed the head
 

EdGs

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Make sure your correct size 6 point socket has a nice, flat end. Some sockets have a bevel on the inside edge and the hex just barely grabs the corners of the top edge of the thinner nuts.

Sand that sucker flat and tap it down over the nut.

Maybe use in conjunction with a hand impact driver? Now I see it's the back plug, crapola.
 
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