Plug Change this weekend...

[Gwerner74]

So I'm going to do the spark plug change on my 2015 6.4L. I'm a little late on this, sitting at 127,000 miles. I have my NGK 96779s in hand that I ordered from Summit Racing (I heeded the warnings about Amazon and eBay), and the recommended GearWrench plug socket. Already hit the coil pack mounting bolts with a bit of penetrating lube to prep them for the love I'm about to give them.

From what I've read here one the past couple weeks, there's really no advantage to replacing the coil packs at this point unless I was getting a misfire which I'm not. Am I correct on this?

I know to NOT use anti-seize on the NGKs, but the opinion on dielectric grease inside the boots seems to be mixed. Thin coat inside the boot or should I not even bother?

Anything else I should be thinking about before doing this job? The last time I did a spark plug change was on a 1981 Pontiac Grand Prix (my first car), I think it was less than 20 bucks for all of the plugs, and the world has drastically changed since then. Thanks!

 

[EdGs]

I run a dab with my finger around the middle part of the ceramic on the plug. Not much, about about a 1/4" x 1/4" dab on my finger. Once you run it around, that makes about a 1/8" bead on the plug body. Just have to be careful inserting the plug into the gearwrench socket.

 

[Wild one]

So I'm going to do the spark plug change on my 2015 6.4L. I'm a little late on this, sitting at 127,000 miles. I have my NGK 96779s in hand that I ordered from Summit Racing (I heeded the warnings about Amazon and eBay), and the recommended GearWrench plug socket. Already hit the coil pack mounting bolts with a bit of penetrating lube to prep them for the love I'm about to give them.

From what I've read here one the past couple weeks, there's really no advantage to replacing the coil packs at this point unless I was getting a misfire which I'm not. Am I correct on this?

I know to NOT use anti-seize on the NGKs, but the opinion on dielectric grease inside the boots seems to be mixed. Thin coat inside the boot or should I not even bother?

Anything else I should be thinking about before doing this job? The last time I did a spark plug change was on a 1981 Pontiac Grand Prix (my first car), I think it was less than 20 bucks for all of the plugs, and the world has drastically changed since then. Thanks!

When you have the coils off,you can do a little cleaning on the springs and contact points pretty easy,and it goes along ways to keeping them healthy and happy for a long time.If the springs are badly corroded you can buy new boots with new springs from Rock Auto or any decent Auto Parts outlet.
Put the di-electric grease on the base of the plug,not inside the boot

Coil cleaning pics

Yea i know my picture taking abilities suck,lol Hopefully you guys can tell how i go about cleaning up the coils from the pic's. The first pic,is just a pic of everything disassembled.If your truck has the resistors under the spring in the coil towers,you'll want to remove them and clean them...

www.ramforum.com

 

[Burla]

Let the condition of the plugs decide if you should use dielectric grease, how the ceramic looks. The bad plug in this actually caused a misfire in this engine.. I am not current, why do we not use anti seize on ngk? Just be careful if you use the DG, as it itself can cause a misfire if applied wrong. None on the tip.

 

[DILLIGAF]

Go thru the wheel well, unless you like working hutched over

 

[Gwerner74]

Let the condition of the plugs decide if you should use dielectric grease, how the ceramic looks. The bad plug in this actually caused a misfire in this engine.. I am not current, why do we not use anti seize on ngk? Just be careful if you use the DG, as it itself can cause a misfire if applied wrong. None on the tip.

NGK states not to use anti-seize because there's already an anti-galling coating on the plug, plus the likelihood of over torquing it due to the extra lubrication the anti-seize gives. Seems a lot of manufacturers now are saying the same thing.

 

[Gwerner74]

Thanks for the tips guys, I appreciate it!

 

[Wild one]

NGK states not to use anti-seize because there's already an anti-galling coating on the plug, plus the likelihood of over torquing it due to the extra lubrication the anti-seize gives. Seems a lot of manufacturers now are saying the same thing.

I still use a very thin smear of anti-seaze on the bottom couple of threads ,as i like to be able to remove the plugs out of an aluminium head down the road.I could care less what NGK says about anti-seaze as they aren't gonna cover the cost of a replacement head when the threads gall on the next plug removal. Throw the torque wrench away,just use a short 3/8" drive ratchet to tighten them in,and don't go all gorrilla on them,lol. Unless you have a "freshly calibrated" torque wrench,you can over tighten them with the leverage most torque wrenches give you.
Both the wifes Challengers and my truck got new plugs every season,as they all lived on the dragstrip and snorted nitrous, the plugs always got a thin smear of anti-seaze,and a tiny dab of di-electric grease on the very base of the porcellin,and they were always easy to R&R with anti-seaze.They also got the coils serviced every spring at the same time

 

[Zoe Saldana]

Guidelines:
1. Make sure you have the correct tools before starting - see my post on my changing my plugs
Often not mentioned is a long handled ratchet for leverage and reach - mine has a pivoting head also - worth buying.
2. I changed the coils - with NGK
3. Dielectric grease on the following:
- ceramic part of the plug
- boot bottom - outside and a little bit inside - don't touch the inside metal part
Use a Q-tip to apply
4. Blow out plug holes with compressed air to get out any dirt
5. spray a little bit of penetrating oil into the plugs and let sit overnight
6. Removing plugs - if hard try back and forth motion and tapping method
7. Anti - seize - I used a very little bit at the bottom of the plug just to smooth entry - very little.

 

[Wild one]

Thanks for the tips guys, I appreciate it!

Contary to the above belief if you ever do change coils,stick with OEM,the aftermarket coils from NGK/Ripp/MSD etc.all have a very poor rep,just go onto the hi-po pages on facebook and you'll find out how poor a rep they have.
I also avoid putting any di-electric grease in the boot,all you need is a thin smear at the very bottom of the porcellin. Di-electric grease is an insulator,and if you put it inside the boot,there's a good chance you'll also get it on the top of the spark plug where the spring makes contact with the plug.
The rest of Zoe's post is good though

 

[Burla]

That's how I roll as well, lil DG on ceramic stuff and small anti seize on everything, always adjust torque a tad, and use compatible base anti seize. Especially when engines age, I want anti seize even over some "coating".