Spark Plugs: Before, during, & after

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rzr6-4

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Before:

So my truck has always run a bit weird. At high RPM it's great, but its always been absolutely gutless at low RPM. I know running 35s right now isn't doing it any favors but it used to do it with 33s as well. Often times has a hard time picking a gear on the highway, always having to down shift for hills and even sometimes for a head wind. Frequently use OD OFF to get it to stay in third, to prevent the 5th gear bog, downshift to 3rd to speed back up, we have plenty of tq so let's go to 4th, still lots of tq, go to 5th, bog and repeat.

Sometimes when I'm going slow and I get on it hard at low RPM, it will actually slow down. I don't fully understand how these auto-magic trannies work, but maybe the trans is trying to lock up and is bogging the engine down faster than the engine can actually supply more power? Like I said, not sure how lock up works on these, but that's my best theory as to how sometimes more gas = slower. One of the main suggestions I've gotten to remedy this is plugs, so that is what I tried today.

During --> After 30k miles and several years of telling myself I needed to get it done (205K mi on the odo, no idea if they've ever been done), I finally done did got my spark plugs replaced. Took me about 3 hrs, was hoping to do it in 2 but oh well. That said, it would have been 5 hrs and a lot more swearing if I didn't have access to a forklift.

pallet.jpg

I did the entire passenger side without it, and the first two pairs on the driver. Either standing on the ground or sitting in/on the bumper, the third pair would have been extremely difficult though. 4th pair towards the fire wall? No idea how it would have been physically possible to reach without the forklift. I brought the pallet in just high enough to not catch on anything, then used a ladder to get on the pallet, and had a good place to lay above the engine. Wasn't to bad with this, but not having it easily would have made those last 4 plugs take another 2 hrs.

spark plugs.jpg

These are the take outs. Very old, dark, and eroded. Don't know if anyone has anything else to input as far as anything to keep in mind based on how these look. I know it's possible to learn a lot about how things are running from how your old plugs look, I'm just too rarded to make any judgments myself.

After: Took it out for a test drive right after completion. To my disappointment, low end still sucks. All the same issues as before. That said, high end RPM seemed to have a little more pep. Professional driver on a closed course, I did a 4wd pull on gravel up to 80mph, and once I was able to get over 30 and into the power band, it seemed to pull better than it had previously. Not sure if it was 2nd or 3rd gear, but was doing 6k RPM at 80mph but was still pulling and still sounded smooth as I let up. Did it again in 2wd and the rear was still a little floaty from a little wheel spin up until 70mph, which I'm pretty sure it wouldn't have done that before. Not saying that doing plugs gave me any real meaningful power boost, but some of those old plugs look to have a large gap so I wonder if I wasn't getting some poor ignition and perhaps it is running just a few percent better now.

Partially just a write up, partially asking for help on a couple things, IDK, take this for what you want.

Hope to get the fluid changed in the 545rfe in the next week or two as well.
 

Badger 13

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Good creativity with the forklift. With out that the topside creepers are the next best thing. Bad part about those are "storing" them. Sorry I can't help on the main issue, but wish you luck with it.



1727002467743.jpeg
 
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rzr6-4

rzr6-4

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Well wells come out you know. Then you can do plugs sitting comfortably :anitoof:

View attachment 551337

Going through the wheel wells seems to work pretty well for me also , it only takes a few minutes to remove them and open up the space to make things easier.

I had seen your post this before Dilli, and I had it in mind. Your pic is going through on the passenger side, and the passenger side was easy enough that I didn't bother trying it. Do you do it on the driver side as well? I considered it on the drivers side but there was enough ****ake in the way that I didn't know if you would be able to reach from down there.
 

Wild one

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Before:

So my truck has always run a bit weird. At high RPM it's great, but its always been absolutely gutless at low RPM. I know running 35s right now isn't doing it any favors but it used to do it with 33s as well. Often times has a hard time picking a gear on the highway, always having to down shift for hills and even sometimes for a head wind. Frequently use OD OFF to get it to stay in third, to prevent the 5th gear bog, downshift to 3rd to speed back up, we have plenty of tq so let's go to 4th, still lots of tq, go to 5th, bog and repeat.

Sometimes when I'm going slow and I get on it hard at low RPM, it will actually slow down. I don't fully understand how these auto-magic trannies work, but maybe the trans is trying to lock up and is bogging the engine down faster than the engine can actually supply more power? Like I said, not sure how lock up works on these, but that's my best theory as to how sometimes more gas = slower. One of the main suggestions I've gotten to remedy this is plugs, so that is what I tried today.

During --> After 30k miles and several years of telling myself I needed to get it done (205K mi on the odo, no idea if they've ever been done), I finally done did got my spark plugs replaced. Took me about 3 hrs, was hoping to do it in 2 but oh well. That said, it would have been 5 hrs and a lot more swearing if I didn't have access to a forklift.

View attachment 551316

I did the entire passenger side without it, and the first two pairs on the driver. Either standing on the ground or sitting in/on the bumper, the third pair would have been extremely difficult though. 4th pair towards the fire wall? No idea how it would have been physically possible to reach without the forklift. I brought the pallet in just high enough to not catch on anything, then used a ladder to get on the pallet, and had a good place to lay above the engine. Wasn't to bad with this, but not having it easily would have made those last 4 plugs take another 2 hrs.

View attachment 551317

These are the take outs. Very old, dark, and eroded. Don't know if anyone has anything else to input as far as anything to keep in mind based on how these look. I know it's possible to learn a lot about how things are running from how your old plugs look, I'm just too rarded to make any judgments myself.

After: Took it out for a test drive right after completion. To my disappointment, low end still sucks. All the same issues as before. That said, high end RPM seemed to have a little more pep. Professional driver on a closed course, I did a 4wd pull on gravel up to 80mph, and once I was able to get over 30 and into the power band, it seemed to pull better than it had previously. Not sure if it was 2nd or 3rd gear, but was doing 6k RPM at 80mph but was still pulling and still sounded smooth as I let up. Did it again in 2wd and the rear was still a little floaty from a little wheel spin up until 70mph, which I'm pretty sure it wouldn't have done that before. Not saying that doing plugs gave me any real meaningful power boost, but some of those old plugs look to have a large gap so I wonder if I wasn't getting some poor ignition and perhaps it is running just a few percent better now.

Partially just a write up, partially asking for help on a couple things, IDK, take this for what you want.

Hope to get the fluid changed in the 545rfe in the next week or two as well.
When you had the coils off,did you pop the rubber boots off them and clean the corrosion off the springs and the contact point in the coil tower,it's probably a given they've never been cleaned,and i'd lay odds you'll have corrosion between the spring and it's contact point.I use these in a Dremel to clean the contact point,and usually wire brush the springs on my bench grinders wire wheel,i also stretch the springs out roughly a 1/4 to 1/2 inch. Pull 2 of the easy to get at coils and pop the rubber boots off them,and push the springs out from the boots to check them over,and look at the contact point under the spring in the coil.A little coil maintence goes along ways toward keeping your coils happy and living a long life.If your springs are badly corroded,Rock Auto sells the boots with new springs fairly cheap.

 
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rzr6-4

rzr6-4

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When you had the coils off,did you pop the rubber boots off them and clean the corrosion off the springs and the contact point in the coil tower,it's probably a given they've never been cleaned,and i'd lay odds you'll have corrosion between the spring and it's contact point.I use these in a Dremel to clean the contact point,and usually wire brush the springs on my bench grinders wire wheel,i also stretch the springs out roughly a 1/4 to 1/2 inch. Pull 2 of the easy to get at coils and pop the rubber boots off them,and push the springs out from the boots to check them over,and look at the contact point under the spring in the coil.A little coil maintence goes along ways toward keeping your coils happy and living a long life.If your springs are badly corroded,Rock Auto sells the boots with new springs fairly cheap.


Interesting, so I used the corner of my rag to clean as far up into the end of the boot as I could but I didn't realize that rubber part could come off. The two on the front pass are pretty easy to reach so I will pull them off sometime to take a look.
 

Wild one

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Interesting, so I used the corner of my rag to clean as far up into the end of the boot as I could but I didn't realize that rubber part could come off. The two on the front pass are pretty easy to reach so I will pull them off sometime to take a look.
The boots just pull off with a good tug and twist,they are replacable if they or the springs are in rough shape.



They even sell Denso boots in a package deal of 16

 

RamDiver

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Learning to read plugs isn't very difficult and there are many online sites to review the subject matter.



Also, you would never catch me trusting any plug manufacturer, distributor, courier, or cardboard packaging to provide pre-gapped plugs with or without a plastic cover or a parts packing monkey.

AFAIC, anyone sufficiently qualified to replace plugs is also either experienced enough to proof the plug gap or at the least, competent enough to learn the skill. The process takes a minute to verify and not much more to tweak.

The spark plugs are a crucial component in the ignition system, a proper gap is necessary for successful operation.

.
 
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