Spun Bearings - Advice on next step needed

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La Ramie

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2013 Ram 5.7 with 65RFE
287k miles

A few months ago, I had a ticking noise.
Me and the mechanic thought it would be the infamous cam and lifters.
So I decided to go with a Ram 6.4 cam.
While at it, I thought it would also be good chance to change the exhaust manifold to avoid any exhaust leak down the road. For this, I went with BBK shorties.
I also installed a Ram 6.4 intake manifold, MMX 85mm ported TB and 6.4 injectors.

Well, I started the engine, after installing Diablo Tune, and now I can hear some heavy ticking coming from the bottom of the engine.

My worst fear came true. It was not only a cam/lifter tick, but also a spun bearing.

My options now, and I appreciate some feedback and expertise:

1- 5.7l drop-in pistons and rods kit with a replacement 5.7l crank. This would be around $2400, and I would be using all the parts I purchased previously.

2- 392 stroker, which would be around $3200. But can I use the Ram 6.4 cam and 6.4 injectors? Should I also go with long tubes or can I still use the shorties?
Trying to minimize the cost for now, if possible.

3- Get a 5.7 HEMI engine out of these totaled trucks. The engine could cost around $3000.
 
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Wild one

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2013 Ram 5.7 with 65RFE
287k miles

A few months ago, I had a ticking noise.
Me and the mechanic thought it would be the infamous cam and lifters.
So I decided to go with a Ram 6.4 cam.
While at it, I thought it would also be good chance to change the exhaust manifold to avoid any exhaust leak down the road. For this, I went with BBK shorties.
I also installed a Ram 6.4 intake manifold, MMX 85mm ported TB and 6.4 injectors.

Well, I started the engine, after installing Diablo Tune, and now I can hear some heavy ticking coming from the bottom of the engine.

My worst fear came true. It was not only a cam/lifter tick, but also a spun bearing.

My options now, and I appreciate some feedback and expertise:

1- 5.7l drop-in pistons and rods kit with a replacement 5.7l crank. This would be around $2400, and I would be using all the parts I purchased previously.

2- 392 stroker, which would be around $3200. But can I use the Ram 6.4 cam and 6.4 injectors? Should I also go with long tubes or can I still use the shorties?
Trying to minimize the cost for now, if possible.

3- Get a 5.7 HEMI engine out of these totaled trucks. The engine could cost around $3000.
 

Burla

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How much metal you have rolling around? Check oil control valve, oil change, oil filter, drop oil pan, anything else you can think of. Where did you get price 3k for a totaled engine? Junkyard engine should be way less the 3 bills.
 
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La Ramie

La Ramie

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How much metal you have rolling around? Check oil control valve, oil change, oil filter, drop oil pan, anything else you can think of. Where did you get price 3k for a totaled engine? Junkyard engine should be way less the 3 bills.

TBH, we didn’t pay attention to the old drained oil.
I was told the price by the workshop.
 

Burla

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TBH, we didn’t pay attention to the old drained oil.
I was told the price by the workshop.
probably labor included, that makes sense

you can still look at oil control valve, it is what the dealer uses to gauge whether to fix and engine or replace. If there is metal in it, the engine is toast according to fca.
 

pacofortacos

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I would go stroker for that little difference, much more torque..
Use what you already have. FYI 392 = 6.4L
 
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La Ramie

La Ramie

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probably labor included, that makes sense

you can still look at oil control valve, it is what the dealer uses to gauge whether to fix and engine or replace. If there is metal in it, the engine is toast according to fca.
I installed new oil control valves.
The old ones are now compromised to draw any conclusion.
 
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La Ramie

La Ramie

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Do I need a different torque convertor, or am I ok with the factory one?
 

Burla

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Wouldnt hurt to get a new one at that mileage, and more importantly update the valve body/solenoid pack, but how much do you wanna spend? That is always the question.
 
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La Ramie

La Ramie

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I was planning a transmission pan cover and Sonnax valve body/solenoid pack with the next oil/filter change.

If the stock converter can handle the power, then I’d keep it for now.

I don’t have a deep pocket, but I’d spend on the necessary parts for the build.
 

Flintlock

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I think the key here is to know for sure everything else around the truck is in good condition. 2200-3k to get a truck back on the road for a reasonable service interval is a no brainer….problem is once down that rabbit hole and you start accumulating other costs it can get out of hand in a hurry. New /used prices right now are crazy of course so there’s that to consider as well
 

Burla

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I was planning a transmission pan cover and Sonnax valve body/solenoid pack with the next oil/filter change.

If the stock converter can handle the power, then I’d keep it for now.

I don’t have a deep pocket, but I’d spend on the necessary parts for the build.
If the transmission will be dropped while you have it down, 200-300 bucks for a new TC might be worth the squeeze, considering you have 300k miles on it.
 
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La Ramie

La Ramie

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For anyone who has experience with stroker kits, a 392 stroker from HHP is about $3200, while a 392 kit from MMX is around $3800.
Which one is better?
 

Rlaman

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Hi everyone. Im no green horn but can somebody explain what an oil control valve is and where is it located ?
 

Knightrider

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I have a knock in the bottom of the engine. I'm about to pull the pan found some shavings in the oil and oil filter. Does anyone have the rod bearing clearance, and connecting rod & mains torque specs for a 2015 5.7? Hoping it's not the lifters also. Only at 75k miles. Has anybody only had rod bearing knock and only installed rod bearings and the engine lived to ride again? Recommended oil & filter and from a hemi with 200k.
 
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