Stupid projector headlight upgrade

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rpr

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I would look into 4500-5500k bulbs as they will be closer to a white color vs. the blue hue you see. Also check to see if you can get bulbs rated for 50w and replace them and try a 50w ballast.

I' m running Morimoto XB D2S bulbs that are 5800k with 50w ballasts. They are white in color to my eye with a blue color along the cut off.
Actually I misspoke. My DDMs are 5500K, and they throw bluish light. I’m going to have to replace them with something else.
 

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By turning off the bwm with alphaobd for the lows, the highs wills still work with stock halogens?

Doesn’t matter if the PWM is on or turned off with AlphaOBD (HID enabled) you can still use halogens or HID’s or LED’s. Doesn’t matter, because all it is doing is turning off the monitoring of the bulbs voltage, it doesn’t actually change voltage or power going to the bulb, so all bulbs still function normally, it just stops the pulsing that causes issues with HID’s and LED’s.


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Jimmy07

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Doesn’t matter if the PWM is on or turned off with AlphaOBD (HID enabled) you can still use halogens or HID’s or LED’s. Doesn’t matter, because all it is doing is turning off the monitoring of the bulbs voltage, it doesn’t actually change voltage or power going to the bulb, so all bulbs still function normally, it just stops the pulsing that causes issues with HID’s and LED’s.


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Couple minor corrections, although I get what you’re saying, but for anyone else- turning off PWM doesn’t turn off the monitoring of the bulb. Bulb voltage never is monitored, but rather, resistance. Turning off PWM actually does change the power going to the bulb because now it will be a constant voltage rather than a pulsed voltage (rapid on and off). The only reason PWM is used is to extend halogen bulb life, and also make sure the light output is consistent when other high amp draw items are being used by changing the duty cycle going to the bulbs (example, fan kicking on and off). The high beams don’t use PWM since they’re not used much, and extended life isn’t really a concern. But, yes, halogens can still be used with PWM shut off, they just won’t last as long.
 

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Couple minor corrections, although I get what you’re saying, but for anyone else- turning off PWM doesn’t turn off the monitoring of the bulb. Bulb voltage never is monitored, but rather, resistance. Turning off PWM actually does change the power going to the bulb because now it will be a constant voltage rather than a pulsed voltage (rapid on and off). The only reason PWM is used is to extend halogen bulb life, and also make sure the light output is consistent when other high amp draw items are being used by changing the duty cycle going to the bulbs (example, fan kicking on and off). The high beams don’t use PWM since they’re not used much, and extended life isn’t really a concern. But, yes, halogens can still be used with PWM shut off, they just won’t last as long.

Hmmm... I learned something new today. Thanks [emoji1360]


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JB1

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I’ll try to find a dark place to take a picture so street lights don’t interfere. Mine look great to me, no different than my previous expensive morimoto
 

rpr

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I would like to see your pics as well. I don’t know what the issue is with mine. I just replaced one of the ballasts with a spare one I bought from DDM to keep on hand. No improvement...
 

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Cableman

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Thats looks much brighter then what rpr has posted. Thanks! I hope mine look like that.
 

JB1

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Here’s a couple from a road inside my work “compound” this morning, first is with low beam only and the second pic with is lows and highs. My truck is lifted and I have them adjusted down and I never get flashed.

Prior to these I had the Morimoto kit and it lasted 18mos without a single issue until recently. I just installed the DDM kit as a replacement after seeing others with it, we’ll see how long it lasts but so far I see no difference in performance.

DDM 35W lows only

5F02B6CE-EAFB-4354-8080-B0D0D278D8B9.jpeg


DDM 35W lows and Katana 9005 Highs
691A7B87-9BAF-4624-BFBB-9FC48AB10F4F.jpeg
 

rpr

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That looks awesome, not sure what the issue is with my DDM kit.
 

rpr

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Looks like the same kit I have. Just ordered OBDLink MX+ so I can try the HID programming options. That’s the only thing that seems to be different between our setups, but I don’t think others have had to use AlfaOBD to get full output with this kit.

One additional question, you did connect the ballast ground wire to your frame, correct? I ask because I saw one instructional saying it wasn’t necessary, but I do have the ground wires from my ballasts connected to the frame of the truck.
 

Cableman

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Ddm directly is a little cheaper then amazon, like 79 for that kit.
Yeah id pull the extra canbus adaptors and try them with alfaobd programming, who knows maybe that will fix it for ya.
I gotta get going on mine and install them already! To much house crap
 

JB1

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Looks like the same kit I have. Just ordered OBDLink MX+ so I can try the HID programming options. That’s the only thing that seems to be different between our setups, but I don’t think others have had to use AlfaOBD to get full output with this kit.

One additional question, you did connect the ballast ground wire to your frame, correct? I ask because I saw one instructional saying it wasn’t necessary, but I do have the ground wires from my ballasts connected to the frame of the truck.

yes mine are connected directly to the frame
 
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