Synthetic Oil

[Ramerica]

awesome, very cool, thanks

Esters can be around the 1200 and the 1800 (1735), so can be possible for both peaks. However, what is the ester bond, do you know?

That's over my head but my gut says 1800-1700 based on the strength of the Lubegard and Ravenol peak and the fact it was basically not there for PUP and M1. The small lumpy peaks might be getting into the limitations of sensitivity for the FTIR and could be background noise

 

[Burla]

Something to study up on, I appreciate all the info.

 

[CanuckRam1313]

This was a few pages ago, but I promised to post up pics of Ralph Gilles one of a kind Viper, and my 06' 300SRT8 with Ralph Gilles signatures on it, too.

Without further adue....

Ralph Gilles custom white Viper... it also had one-off custom made for him magnesium Motegi wheels as well... what a sweet ride, and I got to be a passenger in it.... holy crap... Ralph is no joke behind the wheel!!

 

[CanuckRam1313]

My 06' 300SRT8 first run with the 4-piece front clip and 3-piece rear clip.
I then added in the grills and custom made fiberglass headlight covers as well.
Those headlight covers were first sealed with XPel protection film and then the covers installed permanently with DOW urethane.

I really miss this ride...she was a true beauty and crazy quick and stable on the road course and on the 1/4 track, too!

 

[Travis8352]

I believe these new mobil 1 formulas are using a good chunk of ANs which is giving them some cleaning power which ive noticed first hand with decrease in oil consumption on the nissan altima after 3 runs of dexos1 gen 3 mobil 1 5w30/EP 5w30 with the triple action label. Its a 2011 and ive driven the car from 125k to 153k now. The first change last year after replacing the oil pan i used mobil 1 annual protection 5w30 and it used about 3/4 of a quart in 3500 miles. I then used the older formula mobil 1 EP 5w30 and it used about a quart in 4k miles. Another 4k mile OCI with same oil it used a quart. Then i switched to the new formula triple action formula mobil 1 5w30 (not EP) and it used 3/4 of a quart in 3500 miles. Then i did another 3500 mile OCI with EP 5w30 triple action formula and after 4k miles it was only 1/2 a quart and now using the same oil this change at 4400 miles im only down 1/8th quart! I found PUP 5w30 locally so im going to give that a go this time. Just putting this out there

 

[HEMIMANN]

Yeah, esters generally are for two things.

The first, traditionally, was to use as an additive in Group IV PAO base oil to hold other additives in suspension / solution.

Reason I recall when @ Mobil was PAO molecular structure is too uniform to hold additive molecules in suspension, so the radicals on the ester molecule serves that purpose. in fact, the original Mobil 1 PAO stated that on the oil can - something like 100% synthetic exclusive of additive carrier. Back in those days there weren't any API categories for types of synthetics. This is before Castrol marketed cat cracked and hydrotreated crude as 'synthetic', which led to the API referee categories.

The second is use of esters as high temperature circulation oils for roller bearings. Primary use was, and still is, jet engines, especially for the shaft bearings in the hot (turbine) section. Esters don't provide substantial shear lubrication - they are meant for rollers or bushings, not piston rings sliding in cylinders or cam lobes on sliding tappets. Plus they are very expensive.

Red Line is a specialty oil designed for racing application. The base oil is a blend of PAO and Ester. The only pure ester oil is jet oil, where flourocarbon seals are used that don't swell from ester oil contact. The ester is put into Red Line I think for higher temps in race engine (high speed and load). But the base oil still needs PAO for NBR seal materials and for the cylinder wall lubrication.

Hemi engines respond to Red Line because Hemi engine lubrication system is inadequately design and needs help.

 

[KenR 955]

OK guys, here's one for ya.
2014 Ram 1500
Bought used 4 years ago, 85K on it.
Ran Valvoline 5w20 for the first oil change, found this place and have run RL 5w30 and RP filters since. Every Blackstone report had come back as wonderful. I have posted a few reports here. Currently the truck has 125K, uses no oil between the 5k OCI.
So, why am I posting here? Oil pressure, or the recent lack of high oil pressure. Normal pressure at operating temp (200+ degrees) has been 46-48psi at idle, 55-58 doing 65mph (appx 1,500rpm). The last two weeks oil pressures have been dropping, 39 at idle, 44-46 at speed. Oil was 500 miles short of the 5K OCI, so I got some PUP 5w30 and both of the Purolator Boss filters (big and small). Did the oil change, the big Boss filter would NOT fit, so I used the small one.
Presto, oil pressure was back to normal. For about a week. Today, idle pressure dropped to 37, but "at speed" pressure was 55.
What the heck is going on? I'm waiting on the Blackstone report, and will post it when I get it. Engine makes no non-normal noises and is as quiet as normal.

Ideas?

I got the Blackstone report yesterday. Almost everything is the same except tin went from 1 to 5ppm and aluminum from 2 to 5ppm.
Oil pressure is still in the 53-54 psi at speed and 37-39 at idle, oil temp being at 200-205 degrees.
Thoughts? Ideas?

 

[knightjp]

When talking about oil additives, has anyone ever used Liquimoly MoS2? I did a search and found one thread where someone used it and had success. Just wanted to know if there were more.
It is more easily and readily available here in Dubai than Lubegard. So I was thinking that for the next oil change, I would use "Toyota" brand oil 5w30 or "Lexus" brand oil 5w40 with Liquimoly MoS2 added for good measure.

 

[Burla]

I got the Blackstone report yesterday. Almost everything is the same except tin went from 1 to 5ppm and aluminum from 2 to 5ppm.
Oil pressure is still in the 53-54 psi at speed and 37-39 at idle, oil temp being at 200-205 degrees.
Thoughts? Ideas?

Still is one of the best reports I've seen, that thing is wearing like a honda. Usually that aluminum is cold start up wear, I didnt see the weight, but in the past we would have guys go to 0w30 from 5w30 in that case, but we dont know what 0w30 looks like in redline currently unless I am misremembering. One possible move is to home brew you up a 0w30 by adding 3 qrts 0w20 or 5w20 to 5w30. I know what you are saying, how could 5w20 added to 5w30 make a 0 winter rating. Well it isnt perfect, but 0w30 pertains to cold characteristics for a THIRTY weight oil, so any "thinning" of 5w30 is gonna make that winter rating shift downward. Bottom line, thinner will flow better at cold start, but by mixing you still get benefits of 30 weight. If you go straight to 0w20 you may not like that as you will loose that butter smoothness. Or go to 0w30 and see how the truck responds, but this weight was once a great option, maybe the best all around oil, then redline changed it, argg.

Was it colder this year where you are at?

 

[Burla]

When talking about oil additives, has anyone ever used Liquimoly MoS2? I did a search and found one thread where someone used it and had success. Just wanted to know if there were more.
It is more easily and readily available here in Dubai than Lubegard. So I was thinking that for the next oil change, I would use "Toyota" brand oil 5w30 or "Lexus" brand oil 5w40 with Liquimoly MoS2 added for good measure.

powdered moly in suspension, not oil soluble moly.

 

[Burla]

@KenR 955

I forgot, redline has having some bullsnot issue with tin we have not got an answer on, I believe it was in containers used to deliver raw materials but we get who shot john from redline on this issue. I remembered when I relooked at the uoa and saw the tin reading. So I'm not convinced the aluminum is an issue but maybe that is related to tin, I dunno. But since they both are at 5, I would continue to do uoa's and watch the correlation from al and tin.

Maybe shoot an email to blackstone and give them the info on tin and see if it can be related to the ALUM reading.

Might I ask what was the reason for moving to redline 4-5 oci's ago/? It appears you have one of those great hemis. If there was no reason for it, you may opt to try some shelf 0w30, those are great effort oils by manu's most are high quality, and see where aluminum is. wear is the same 20 weight shelf oil to redline thirty weight, so you should be good either way. PSI issue aside. On the other hand that iron has dropped from already low numbers, pretty impressive. Nothing in any one of your uoa's are close to concerning at this point, so staying put is another option. Maybe take a sample and send it in before you change the oil next time, help with the decision.

You should post that in blackstone thread, great example of whats going on currently.



.

 

[Burla]

I took the leap and bought kirkland 5w30, we will see how the wifes car likes it. I know a couple guys don't like it, I will see for myself. Maybe early next year I with get it in.

 

[knightjp]

powdered moly in suspension, not oil soluble moly.

What about Liquimoly Ceratec?

 

[CanuckRam1313]

@KenR 955

I forgot, redline has having some bullsnot issue with tin we have not got an answer on, I believe it was in containers used to deliver raw materials but we get who shot john from redline on this issue. I remembered when I relooked at the uoa and saw the tin reading. So I'm not convinced the aluminum is an issue but maybe that is related to tin, I dunno. But since they both are at 5, I would continue to do uoa's and watch the correlation from al and tin.

Maybe shoot an email to blackstone and give them the info on tin and see if it can be related to the ALUM reading.

Might I ask what was the reason for moving to redline 4-5 oci's ago/? It appears you have one of those great hemis. If there was no reason for it, you may opt to try some shelf 0w30, those are great effort oils by manu's most are high quality, and see where aluminum is. wear is the same 20 weight shelf oil to redline thirty weight, so you should be good either way. PSI issue aside. On the other hand that iron has dropped from already low numbers, pretty impressive. Nothing in any one of your uoa's are close to concerning at this point, so staying put is another option. Maybe take a sample and send it in before you change the oil next time, help with the decision.

You should post that in blackstone thread, great example of whats going on currently.



.

I've got another UOA currently with Blackstone (I drive a lot) with 5,000 miles on it with RL HP 5W30 and a RP 20-820 oil filter. I'll post up when the report comes in.

I'd like to see where the tin is at with this UOA.

I have once again reached out to RL with multiple RL contacts on it. I also provided mine and others on our forum bottle/jug ID#'s as well. for RL to cross reference them against our UOA's.

The moment I hear back I'll post up.

These guys are as slow as molasses in winter!

 

[CanuckRam1313]

I took the leap and bought kirkland 5w30, we will see how the wifes car likes it. I know a couple guys don't like it, I will see for myself. Maybe early next year I with get it in.

LOL... wife's car as the tester...smart man
Don't sacrifice the HEMI for sake of testing

 

[Burla]

LOL... wife's car as the tester...smart man
Don't sacrifice the HEMI for sake of testing

The interesting part of my wife's car is it has the famous small engine low rpm rattle, all of these honda/toyota's that were built with non di turbo's to suck as little gas as possible but are gutless all the way around. The interesting part was I went to 5w20 redline on it and it was a little smoother then m1 5w20 but still rattly, when I went to 5w30 PUP it was butter smooth as if I had redline 5w30 in there. So this is the perfect way for me to test 5w30 kirkland. I see what it is on paper and I am impressed at 16 dollars per 5 quarts yesterday pricing, so if it keeps that rattle away then I take that as a win. I truly love this vehicle, 29mpg's all around and it has served us for 14 years and counting, I doubt I could ever sell it we will see. I need the ram as we are in the country and he have much need for the truck, no dump service out here, and I can't see strapping my 5x10 trailer to the rav 4 although I probably could figure that out. When the wife can't take it anymore and forces her hand to get a new SUV, this might end up as some lucky kids school car. Perfect for beaching or trolling or whatever kids are doing these days. But the wife should wrap her brain around if we are gonna sell the rav 4 someday, we better get one of these -->



Yes, another rav 4.


.

 

[Burla]

I'm not alone on my rav 4 crush, best selling non truck in the US for GOOD reason, 2022 sales...

1. Ford F-Series – 653,000 sold

2. Chevrolet Silverado – 521,000 sold

3. Ram Pickup – 468,000 sold

4. Toyota RAV4 – 366,000 sold

5. Toyota Camry – 295,000 sold

That is almost how many broncos were sold 1986-1996, take off a year there ya go. Every year this many units sold.

 

[KenR 955]

@KenR 955

I forgot, redline has having some bullsnot issue with tin we have not got an answer on, I believe it was in containers used to deliver raw materials but we get who shot john from redline on this issue. I remembered when I relooked at the uoa and saw the tin reading. So I'm not convinced the aluminum is an issue but maybe that is related to tin, I dunno. But since they both are at 5, I would continue to do uoa's and watch the correlation from al and tin.

Maybe shoot an email to blackstone and give them the info on tin and see if it can be related to the ALUM reading.

Might I ask what was the reason for moving to redline 4-5 oci's ago/? It appears you have one of those great hemis. If there was no reason for it, you may opt to try some shelf 0w30, those are great effort oils by manu's most are high quality, and see where aluminum is. wear is the same 20 weight shelf oil to redline thirty weight, so you should be good either way. PSI issue aside. On the other hand that iron has dropped from already low numbers, pretty impressive. Nothing in any one of your uoa's are close to concerning at this point, so staying put is another option. Maybe take a sample and send it in before you change the oil next time, help with the decision.

You should post that in blackstone thread, great example of whats going on currently.



.

Tin directly from Redline huh? Go figure.
Why did I switch to Redline? I joined this group and since the Hemi has a tick that no shop around here can figure out, I started using Redline. It still ticks, but I am finding water staining residue where exhaust joints are, I assume they are leaking.
I tried PUP 5w30 this time because I needed to do an oil change NOW,(pressure issue) and bought what was in stock at Advance AP

 

[Burla]

Tin directly from Redline huh? Go figure.
Why did I switch to Redline? I joined this group and since the Hemi has a tick that no shop around here can figure out, I started using Redline. It still ticks, but I am finding water staining residue where exhaust joints are, I assume they are leaking.
I tried PUP 5w30 this time because I needed to do an oil change NOW,(pressure issue) and bought what was in stock at Advance AP

Yeah I'm like 99% that truck doesnt have lifter tick, just off the uoas that would not be likely, plus still having the same noise with 5w30 redline, and it looks like you went from a sparce 20 weight oil to redline and you do see iron dropping but that literally could be a result of going thicker and not additive related. Yeah we arent happy about tin in redline, but some of us are stuck because we would have hemi lifter tick. I think it would be worth a try for you to move to 5w30 or 0w30 pickum shelf oil and see where the wear goes. A side benefit it would be very valuable info for the forum, but honestly it is a sound strategy and likely will serve you well. It looks like you already did that, perfect!! So how smooth is it on 5w30 PUP, still ticking but generally smooth? Any difference from redline 5w30?

 

[knightjp]

Tin directly from Redline huh? Go figure.
Why did I switch to Redline? I joined this group and since the Hemi has a tick that no shop around here can figure out, I started using Redline. It still ticks, but I am finding water staining residue where exhaust joints are, I assume they are leaking.
I tried PUP 5w30 this time because I needed to do an oil change NOW,(pressure issue) and bought what was in stock at Advance AP

If your engine still ticks after using Redline, then I would suggest first looking at the exhaust bolts and changing those. If it still ticks after that, then you need to look at changing your lifters.
Based on your lab results, you did not need to go Redline, but I guess prevention is better than cure. It is a sure to prevent yourself from getting the dreaded lifter tick IMO.