Synthetic Oil

[danielmid]

And interesting right? 0w30 in the 6.4 works well. Perhaps not just redline, but most 0w30's are well built and as we know 10 less swing points over 0w40 is gonna make it more stable. I would imagine super car formula also would be incredible in the 6.4. But if I was towing heavy, I would prefer the other direction as in 15w40 instead of what we are doing round here.

The supercar 0w-40 specs look pretty thick, I'd probably use the premium+ 0w-40, or the Supercar 5w-40 looks pretty good specs too.

 

[Burla]

The supercar 0w-40 specs look pretty thick, I'd probably use the premium+ 0w-40, or the Supercar 5w-40 looks pretty good specs too.

I meant the 0w30 sc. hths 3,5, gonna be a great balance all around formula winter and summer, just a little lacking towing.

 

[danielmid]

I meant the 0w30 sc. hths 3,5, gonna be a great balance all around formula winter and summer, just a little lacking towing.

I still think the Premium+ 0W-40 specs look better than the SC 0W-30, but I admit the spec values are still hazy to me. Easier cold crank and higher hths, no difference in pour points, what am I missing?

	SC 0W-30	P+ 0W-30	SC 0W-40	P+ 0W-40
cSt@40	68.87	53.44	83.79	79.68
cSt@100	12.2	10	14.38	14.31
Visc Index	177	177	179	187
Cold Crank	5,553@-35c	4,152@-35C	6,118@-35c	4,829@-35c
Base Number	>11	>13.5	>11	>13.5
Flash Point	216/421	225/437	206/403	212/414
Foaming Tendancy		0/0/0		0/0/0
Specific Gravity	0.859	0.856	0.858	0.857
Rust Prevention	Pass	Pass	Pass	Pass
Copper Corrosion	1a/1a	1a/1a	1a/1a	1a/1a
Pour Point	-57/-71	-58/-72	-60/-76	-58/-72
HTHS Visc	3.541	3.009	3.875	3.918
MRV Visc	22,248@-40c	15,369@-40c	31,299@-40c	26,811@-40c

 

[Burla]

The lower the CCS the easy to crank, hths mostly a warm spec but how you achieve it, the larger swing 0w40 over 0w30 means they used a boat load more vii's, so hths numbers will go down in use just as the operating visc will go down in use, you generally will lose more viscosity the larger the swing winter rating to weight.

 

[KKBB]

I went with the 0w-40 premium plus. I have a 2019 2500 6.4 hemi. I haven't used it yet. I am running PUP 0w-40 right now, and I have also used redline 5w-30...I will probably make this a short run of the PUP just so I can see how the HPL is. It's fun experimenting with all of these oils!! Haha

 

[Burla]

I still like the PUP 0w40, a lot of good there, clean base oil designed to be a 30 weight for the most part similar to super class 0w40's, real nice moly. Yes the do use a lot of vii and you will lose a lot of viscosity and have sheared vii's rolling around, but it is still a good choice for the hemi for a shelf oil. But yeah it isnt in the same class as redline or hpl imo. One thing I wonder, because we were not bold enough to recommend 0w40's when we were testing for hemi ticks is how many of those ticks would have been killed with pup 0w40. It appears the hay day for testing multiuple trucks for hemi tick are over, a lot of what if's. That was the problem with one product having so much reported success, not many guys wanted to be guinea pigs they just wanted to use what works. I wonder if now with the pricing being what it is if there isnt more opportunity to follow science and try some other things like corey did with 0w40 ss, which as it turns out was a tick killer for his truck.

 

[BLUKTY2]

I just can't seem to break my Amsoil SS 0W-40 habit. I feel that I need the 0W where I live but also need the 40. I don't tow very often, and when I do the weight is only around 1,000#'s or so. But 99% of the time I carry a very heavy camper, around 3,700#'s, probably quite a bit more. I often drive in mountainous terrain and even though I am one, I don't drive like an old man. So in a nutshell, I push my truck hard.

I am well aware of the drawbacks of using an oil with such a wide viscosity swing as the oil accumulates miles/time and shears. My strategy to mitigate this issue is to simply go no longer than 5,000 mile oci's. So far so good. My engine seems quiet (I really have nothing to compare it to).

The price of the HPL oils, especially when the shipping to my location is factored in, makes them a no go for me. At least at this time. If my engine was a ticker, or develops one, then sure; still a minuscule cost compared to an engine rebuild.

 

[ramffml]

I just can't seem to break my Amsoil SS 0W-40 habit. I feel that I need the 0W where I live but also need the 40. I don't tow very often, and when I do the weight is only around 1,000#'s or so. But 99% of the time I carry a very heavy camper, around 3,700#'s, probably quite a bit more. I often drive in mountainous terrain and even though I am one, I don't drive like an old man. So in a nutshell, I push my truck hard.

I am well aware of the drawbacks of using an oil with such a wide viscosity swing as the oil accumulates miles/time and shears. My strategy to mitigate this issue is to simply go no longer than 5,000 mile oci's. So far so good. My engine seems quiet (I really have nothing to compare it to).

The price of the HPL oils, especially when the shipping to my location is factored in, makes them a no go for me. At least at this time. If my engine was a ticker, or develops one, then sure; still a minuscule cost compared to an engine rebuild.

HPL is not cheap! But keep everything in perspective, what it costs (extra over the amsoil) is probably less than a quarter to half a tank of gas, doing that twice a year (for me anyway) is peanuts considering I fill up every 2 weeks or so.

Not saying you have to run out and swap brands, but sometimes it helps to just look at things from a different angle.

 

[Burla]

True story, I woke up today and my wife took my case of redline from the foyer to the front porch. She said I wanted to make it look nice for the party, yes we have a big shin dig today. I says, next time you put my redline on the front porch, your going with it. So now apparently I am the grinch

Oh yeah, uncle burla's worst day is upon us...

 

[quickster2]

I still like the PUP 0w40, a lot of good there, clean base oil designed to be a 30 weight for the most part similar to super class 0w40's, real nice moly. Yes the do use a lot of vii and you will lose a lot of viscosity and have sheared vii's rolling around, but it is still a good choice for the hemi for a shelf oil. But yeah it isnt in the same class as redline or hpl imo. One thing I wonder, because we were not bold enough to recommend 0w40's when we were testing for hemi ticks is how many of those ticks would have been killed with pup 0w40. It appears the hay day for testing multiuple trucks for hemi tick are over, a lot of what if's. That was the problem with one product having so much reported success, not many guys wanted to be guinea pigs they just wanted to use what works. I wonder if now with the pricing being what it is if there isnt more opportunity to follow science and try some other things like corey did with 0w40 ss, which as it turns out was a tick killer for his truck.

0W40 PUP almost exclusively since day 1. No tick and had only 1 or 2X a brief tick on start up after sitting for more than a month. I do add LubeGard now (since 65K) based on this forums' input. Hardly ever sits now for extended periods as retirement takes me hunting, camping, & fishing. Working towards 80K now.

Merry Christmas to all.

 

[Burla]

Dont worry friend you wont be homeless for long, hopefully they will be gone by the time the niner game starts and I can put you next to the rp oil filters and we all can watch the big game

 

[quickster2]

Yeah had to put all my guns (except for two 9MM I keep in Vaultek safes at the ready) and hunting equipment away for dinner as we are hosting tonight. Wife knows not to touch my stuff and I know to stay away from hers.

 

[HEMIMANN]

Hmmm....Red Line vs. Wife on Christmas Day?

Tough choice.

 

[MontanaHandyman]

True story, I woke up today and my wife took my case of redline from the foyer to the front porch. She said I wanted to make it look nice for the party, yes we have a big shin dig today. I says, next time you put my redline on the front porch, your going with it. So now apparently I am the grinch

Oh yeah, uncle burla's worst day is upon us...

View attachment 534137

...and you uploaded an actual photo of yerself...always wondered what you looked like!

 

[Burla]

All those videos are still up, one when I changed the wifes rav 4 with redline and that was her xmas present. I did omit the fact corey, ronnie and kyle convinced me to go away from 5w20 to 5w30, so I was using up the 5w20 on her car, but ignorance is bliss.

royal purple filter verus Napa Platinum (Wix XP)

See the difference between the royal purple filter versus Napa Premiun (Wix XP).

youtu.be

 

[JHoward]

Hmmm....Red Line vs. Wife on Christmas Day?

Tough choice.

Not at all ... Red Line, all the time ... it's cheaper.

Uh, nevermind I'm not married.

 

[Hemi395]

It's hilarious when people start arguing with me about oil/hemi tick on the FB groups

 

[HEMIMANN]

Wow, why would you subject yourself to such a lightweight medium?

Isn't FB for old farts family photos?

 

[Old Fart]

I'd look into remflex or similar and do the side that is tickimng, but I think they also sell two packs of remflex. Reviews are good, check them out, many hemi guys say this fixes hemi tick.

Remflex exhaust gaskets will work properly the first time, every time. The Science Remflex gaskets work because they solve the two main problems associated with sealing an exhaust flange: Warping, and gasket failure. Warped Reality A common misconception is that, if you spend a lot of money for high-quality headers with thick flanges, leaks will not be an issue. In truth, a thicker flange does help, but it can’t solve the problem of warping altogether. Constant thermal cycling, especially in high performance and/or high-load environments, causes warping of header flanges and cast iron exhaust manifolds--even the exhaust flange of the cylinder head itself. Once the sealing surface is warped, leaks are imminent—and once there is a leak, pitting of the exhaust port sealing surface usually follows. A new set of average gaskets won’t fix the problem—but Remflex gaskets, with a 50% crush built in—can seal gaps as large as 1/16-inch. And unlike traditional gaskets, they won’t shrink, so they never require re-torquing. If you can’t take the heat…

I just had my exhaust manifolds replaced and used the Remflex gaskets. My mechanic took 16 hours to get 9 broken studs out. No more exhaust ticks, no lifters ticks and so quiet I can hear tire noise, lol. I guess all that is left to do is see how long it lasts.

 

[Hemi395]

Wow, why would you subject yourself to such a lightweight medium?

Isn't FB for old farts family photos?

I can't help myself. Someone starts in with "oil is oil" and well, I can't keep my mouth shut