TIPM issues?

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jr70895

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2013
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2013 Ram 1500 Sport. The a/c kept going off and on,it would come on if I tapped the top of the tipm, hit a bump and back off. Several have said bad tipm. Below the tipm is the 42 pin green connector, the blue wire was extremely hot. Long story short. Changed the blower motor, resistor and a mechanic re-pinned in a new 42 pin connector. He also cut back the old blue wire to good wire and replaced with 10 gauge wire to the a/c connector as suggested.
Everything was working fine until 36 hours later. Now the a/c will not come on at all even by tapping the tipm. I have a brand new tipm for tim rebuilders and will install it later today.
So it will have a new blower motor, resistor, 42 pin connector with thicker blue wire to the connector and a new tipm. If the a.c doesn't come on after the new tipm install what else would it possibly be?
 

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Slinge

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OEM blower motor ?
Saw a vid where the fuse had poor connections to
terminals. They could wiggle the fuse o make the blower work.
New fuse with tighter connection to terminals fixed it.
 
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jr70895

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No, a VDO/Continental blower motor and Standard Ignition resistor was installed 2 weeks ago and worked fine except off and on at times. As suggested upgraded the blue wire to 10 gauge below the 42 pin connector, installed a new connector and a new TIPM. So, new TIPM, Blower Motor, Resistor, 42 pin connector and new blue wire.

Just now Swapped out the O'reilly Standard Ignition Company resistor for a new one and the a/c ran for about 2 starts. Re-installed the old oem resistor and it runs (for now).
So with that in mind I guess I need to get a new Ram resistor. This model one from the dealer is $350 with tax, but is what it is. I might need to get an OEM blower motor as well but for now it seems to be fine.
Gemini AI said:
  1. The Standard Ignition Resistors: These aftermarket parts are built cheaply to a generic, bare-minimum specification. When the healthy current draw from your fresh Continental motor hits that cheap aftermarket resistor, it generates real, normal operational heat. The O'Reilly resistor's fragile internal safety fuse simply can't handle it, so it burns out permanently right out of the box.
  2. The Original Factory Resistor: Your original OEM resistor was engineered by Mopar to handle the exact maximum electrical load of a healthy, full-strength motor. That’s why it doesn’t break a sweat or pop its thermal fuse when you plug it in—it's heavy-duty enough to handle the current.

 

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