Tips for leaky AC?

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LeesEvoX

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So I have noticed a leak on one of my AC lines. Low pressure side.

U have never messed with anything hvac related. Any pointers? Or is this just a "replace the entire line" type of deal?a92acd5bf618d71c9d0226e660ef3765.jpg

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Mike Murphy

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If you have the proper refrigerant recovery/charge equipment, you can recover the refrigerant and diagnose what is leaking in the picture. If you don't have the equipment then more than likely the vehicle needs to go to a shop for proper diagnostics of the leak.
 
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LeesEvoX

LeesEvoX

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If you have the proper refrigerant recovery/charge equipment, you can recover the refrigerant and diagnose what is leaking in the picture. If you don't have the equipment then more than likely the vehicle needs to go to a shop for proper diagnostics of the leak.
Aww man. No bueno!

I'm the "avoid shops at all costs" type of guy lol. (Besides my car).

So I get the refrigerant loss being an issue. But no other way to Jerry rig something up?

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sandawilliams

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So I get the refrigerant loss being an issue. But no other way to Jerry rig something up?

JB weld? duct tape? bailing wire?
 
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U&A

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Unscrew the cap, push down that little metal wire that is sticking up in there until it stops making the “hissing” sound. Then that thing will NEVER leak again.

Your welcome


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15 Handicap

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If you can recover the refrigerant and the leak is inn an aluminum line they do make a soldier for aluminum. If you don't have someone to repair it use a high quality epoxy and evacuate and recharge it. I just retired from HVAC and have brazed aluminum before. It takes practice so you don't burn through the line but it can be done. Got a buddy in HVAC? Don't use oxy-acetylene burns too hot must use a "turbo torch". Good luck. Don't abandon the epoxy either.
 
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LeesEvoX

LeesEvoX

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Unscrew the cap, push down that little metal wire that is sticking up in there until it stops making the “hissing” sound. Then that thing will NEVER leak again.

Your welcome


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]
You reckon its overfilled? Or you just try to get me to release ALL my freon lol.
Releasing refrigerant into the atmosphere is illegal and can be penalized by a hefty fine. Someone (including the forums) that reports you can be rewarded up to $10,000 if your convicted. R-134a or Tetrafluoroethane is a greenhouse gas and greatly contributes to global warming. Hence the recovery machines and the leak detection methods by propane or other methods recommended.
Hey man, calm dow. Here. Nobody is doing anything illegal. Might bend the truth some.... haha

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bigdodge

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Have you tried replacing the Schraeder valve?

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LeesEvoX

LeesEvoX

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Have you tried replacing the Schraeder valve?

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I have not! And had no idea this was a serviceable item. After a quick Google. Looks like there are fix it kits you can buy.

If replacing the shrader valve (which I think it is, as I see bubbling). This would still require dumping the freon right?

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crash68

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Spray that fitting down with leak detector bubbles, if it's between the line and valve body your probably looking at replacement. If it's the Schrader valve(check with the cap on), see if the cap has the o-ring seal in it and replace the cap if it's missing.
 
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LeesEvoX

LeesEvoX

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Spray that fitting down with leak detector bubbles, if it's between the line and valve body your probably looking at replacement. If it's the Schrader valve(check with the cap on), see if the cap has the o-ring seal in it and replace the cap if it's missing.
Wheb I remove the cap. I can see bubbles from that valve. So i presume that's it. The crud i see built up I'm guessing is from it making it's way out the cap (will check for o ring in the am).

To mention again though. If changing the valve. It will release the freon right?

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crash68

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If changing the valve. It will release the freon right?
There are tools that allow you to pull and replace the valve cores without it losing much refrigerant. Without it you'll lose all the refrigerant.
There is two sizes of valve cores, this kit does both: Mastercool (58531) Black R134A Standard and JRA Valve Core Remover https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0015KH93K/
 

tidefan1967

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I would get a Schrader valve tool and try just plain ole tightening it first. I've seen many of them loosen up over time and just need to be snugged back down. That will also take care of what U&A is talking about too!
As far as climate change is concerned we're all doomed any ******* way.The entire US of A could go back to living in caves and the rest of the world would more than make up for anything we could have done to stop it. Argon gas makes up almost 1% of the Earths atmosphere. That's 23 times more than CO2 at 0.04%. After hearing that I think we should go on a crusade against tradesmen. Not! Personally I think that hole we used to have in the ozone layer was a bigger deal than this CC/GW stuff!
 
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LeesEvoX

LeesEvoX

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There are tools that allow you to pull and replace the valve cores without it losing much refrigerant. Without it you'll lose all the refrigerant.
There is two sizes of valve cores, this kit does both: Mastercool (58531) Black R134A Standard and JRA Valve Core Remover https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0015KH93K/
I would get a Schrader valve tool and try just plain ole tightening it first. I've seen many of them loosen up over time and just need to be snugged back down. That will also take care of what U&A is talking about too!
As far as climate change is concerned we're all doomed any ******* way.The entire US of A could go back to living in caves and the rest of the world would more than make up for anything we could have done to stop it. Argon gas makes up almost 1% of the Earths atmosphere. That's 23 times more than CO2 at 0.04%. After hearing that I think we should go on a crusade against tradesmen. Not! Personally I think that hole we used to have in the ozone layer was a bigger deal than this CC/GW stuff!
Thank you gentlemen!

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LeesEvoX

LeesEvoX

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So I gotta ask one more question.

Does the ram 1500 have standard Schrader valves for both high/low side? Or does it use the JRA type for the high side?

Edit: here's what I'm looking at. Along with the tool someone posted previously.(wont use the tool on this kit)


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c22f80539e52a4969c03e2e0ec636a17.jpg
 
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bigdodge

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On my 99 1500 it had a smaller valve like what's pictured on the left. Honestly u will probably just have to pull it and see.

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LeesEvoX

LeesEvoX

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On my 99 1500 it had a smaller valve like what's pictured on the left. Honestly u will probably just have to pull it and see.

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Yeah it appears the low side has a traditional type. But the high side is larger.

Really hoping I dont have to use the pull and pray method here. As both valves are leaking. And dont want to dump all the refrigerant lol

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Tach_tech

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If you try to remove the valve, it will leak all the refrigerant. As someone mentioned they do make tools to change a valve core without losing refrigerant.

Notice I said refrigerant not Freon. Freon is a brand name of certain refrigerants. It bugs me when people call it Freon, I dunno why lol, it just does.
 
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LeesEvoX

LeesEvoX

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If you try to remove the valve, it will leak all the refrigerant. As someone mentioned they do make tools to change a valve core without losing refrigerant.

Notice I said refrigerant not Freon. Freon is a brand name of certain refrigerants. It bugs me when people call it Freon, I dunno why lol, it just does.
Yeah I am faking to buy the tool. I guess I will see if the guys at o'Reillys know lol.

Duly noted! Refrigerant! Haha

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Tpearson515

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Yeah I am faking to buy the tool. I guess I will see if the guys at o'Reillys know lol.

Duly noted! Refrigerant! Haha

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Is your A/c working now?, I would take a soap bottle and spray around the fitting, see where or if it is leaking, if its leaking a small amount through the Schrader core and it's coming out through the cap the seal on the cap is probably worn. You could just get a new cap with a seal to stop the leaking, that way you dont have to worry about using a Schrader tool and dumping the charge, really no need to pull the cap again unless you need to install gauges.

If its leaking around where the gauge port is saddled to the line then yeah will need to replace the line,

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