Towing Camping Trailer

[Riccochet]

Both my 1500's were properly set up and CAT scaled. Even had Air Lift 1000's and Helwig rear sway bars on them. That helped with the porpoising and some of the movement of the truck. They were still much lighter trucks and still were influenced by the leverage of 30' of trailer behind it. 2500 is just more planted. No denying it. Always better to have more truck than you need, because emergencies happen.

That's not to say that ALL 30'+ trailers tow the same. They don't. Some are just a dream to tow with a 1500. You really won't know until you get it hooked up, dialed in and hit the road. I'd keep it local until you know for sure though. My first trip with my trailer was 3 hours away. It was mentally exhausting getting there and back. That's when I started buying different WDH's and modding the truck. Trying to find the "best setup". Which I never found on that first truck. Second 1500 was a little bit better, especially with a ProPride. Thing to know about that ProPride is that if the wind is strong enough to move your trailer it's going to move your truck with it. And you aren't going to stop it from happening. They move as one.

With the 2500 I could probably tow it without a WDH. But I bought the Andersen just for a little bit of weight distribution and sway control. And it works awesome. Super easy, light weight. Truck is just planted. Literally one hand driving with cruise control.

 

[Bike_Pilot]

I totally agree with those saying don't get a 2500 diesel.... A 3500 is the way to go! (Only half tongue in cheek--the 2500 has really limited payload and the coil spring rear end is a little wobbly feeling when worked hard). That said yes you can probably get by with a 1500 so long as everything is setup well. A big diesel is so much more stable though

 

[Jane S]

You cannot make blanket statements like that. Every truck and trailer and cargo setup handles differently, never mind wind or road or traffic conditions. These ram half tons are like station wagons, best not to push them (especially the suspension is the weak spot).

Also keep in mind who's driving. No offense to the OP, he's obviously new to this and doing the right thing by asking questions. A smart forum member may keep that in mind while doling out their 2 cents, and not offer advice which may put newbies in harms way.

I've said my piece and it really isn't worth arguing about it. Cowboys will be cowboys, and at a certain point all you can do is just watch while they take shake and shimmy their butt down the road before taking out a guard rail.

And typing in bold doesn't make you right. It just makes you vehemently wrong.

"You cannot make blanket statements like that."
Yes I can.

 

[Jane S]

Both my 1500's were properly set up and CAT scaled. Even had Air Lift 1000's and Helwig rear sway bars on them. That helped with the porpoising and some of the movement of the truck. They were still much lighter trucks and still were influenced by the leverage of 30' of trailer behind it. 2500 is just more planted. No denying it. Always better to have more truck than you need, because emergencies happen.

That's not to say that ALL 30'+ trailers tow the same. They don't. Some are just a dream to tow with a 1500. You really won't know until you get it hooked up, dialed in and hit the road. I'd keep it local until you know for sure though. My first trip with my trailer was 3 hours away. It was mentally exhausting getting there and back. That's when I started buying different WDH's and modding the truck. Trying to find the "best setup". Which I never found on that first truck. Second 1500 was a little bit better, especially with a ProPride. Thing to know about that ProPride is that if the wind is strong enough to move your trailer it's going to move your truck with it. And you aren't going to stop it from happening. They move as one.

With the 2500 I could probably tow it without a WDH. But I bought the Andersen just for a little bit of weight distribution and sway control. And it works awesome. Super easy, light weight. Truck is just planted. Literally one hand driving with cruise control.

"With the 2500 I could probably tow it without a WDH."

That is bad advise. I won't go into it.

I have a 2500 with a 31'. I got the 2500 because I tow about 8K miles/year and I knew I'd probably get a larger TT or 5th in the future. Yes I hardly know it is there EXCEPT for going up and down mountains in Colorado.

 

[ramffml]

"You cannot make blanket statements like that."
Yes I can.

Thread's over guys. This dude, has spoken.

 

[Jane S]

Thread's over guys. This dude, has spoken.

Dam straight!

 

[Farmer Fran]

To the OP, these threads usually go off a cliff, so take each post, make a safe decision and have fun

 

[Riccochet]

"With the 2500 I could probably tow it without a WDH."

That is bad advise. I won't go into it.

I have a 2500 with a 31'. I got the 2500 because I tow about 8K miles/year and I knew I'd probably get a larger TT or 5th in the future. Yes I hardly know it is there EXCEPT for going up and down mountains in Colorado.

Not saying I would tow without a WDH, just that it could handle that 1000 lbs of tongue weight no problem. If it came down to it. No way I'd do that with a 1500.

 

[Jane S]

Not saying I would tow without a WDH, just that it could handle that 1000 lbs of tongue weight no problem. If it came down to it. No way I'd do that with a 1500.

"tongue weight no problem."

That tells me that your 'mentally exhausting' towing experience with your 1500 is probably your fault.

 

[Riccochet]

"tongue weight no problem."

That tells me that your 'mentally exhausting' towing experience with your 1500 is probably your fault.

Physics....go back to school and learn them.

The 1500 would sag like crazy with that much weight on the ball. Because physics, leverage. The further you get from the axle the easier it is to compress the rear suspension. Now, the 2500 rear suspension is a bit more stiff. It still sags, but no where near as much as the 1500. I do it all the time to move my trailer around my property.

And, no, my 1500's were set up properly. I've been towing for over 20 years. Math. Learn it.

 

[ramffml]

Physics....go back to school and learn them.

The 1500 would sag like crazy with that much weight on the ball. Because physics, leverage. The further you get from the axle the easier it is to compress the rear suspension. Now, the 2500 rear suspension is a bit more stiff. It still sags, but no where near as much as the 1500. I do it all the time to move my trailer around my property.

And, no, my 1500's were set up properly. I've been towing for over 20 years. Math. Learn it.

Sometimes you just need to stop arguing with guys like that, we're not going to get anywhere with his attitude.

 

[Ratman6161]

I'll throw in a couple of factors I have not seen mentioned.
1. Who else and what else will you be carrying in the truck besides the hitch and tongue weight ofnthe trailer? For example, my wife and I and the stuff we routinely carry add up to 435#. Butnthats just the two of us. If you are a family of 5 plus your 90# dog and all your stuff, you probably have a lot more.
2. Do you have any after market stuff installed on the truck? That's payload.
2. I use a WDH with my 2500 and it weighs 106# and that's payload too.
3. Where is your storage in the trailer and how much storage do you have? On ours we have little outside storage so I end up with 200# of stuff in plastic boxes in the back 9f the truck...more payload. Also our ability to redistribute weight inside the trailer is very limited.
4. Options on the trailer can greatly effect how much it differs from the published weight. Manufacturer says 6836 #UVW and 946# TW. But on a scale, our real weight is 7034# and 914# TW with full propane tanks and two batteries but no cargo..we have the second AC option and it's in the far back. As we load it, the TW increases to 1020#

So all that payload adds up to 435+200+106+1020=1761. So theoretically we could squeak by with some 1500's. At the time we ordered the trailer I had a Sierra 1500 withn a Payload of 1650 and decided to get a gas Ram 2500. No, I do not need a diesel to pull 7600#. A CTD 2500 with otherwise the same options as mine only has a payload of 2108 son2ith my trailer I'd only have a margin of 2108 - 1761 = 347. Soma hypothetical family of five migght have to leave Rover home

 

[Jane S]

Physics....go back to school and learn them.

The 1500 would sag like crazy with that much weight on the ball. Because physics, leverage. The further you get from the axle the easier it is to compress the rear suspension. Now, the 2500 rear suspension is a bit more stiff. It still sags, but no where near as much as the 1500. I do it all the time to move my trailer around my property.

And, no, my 1500's were set up properly. I've been towing for over 20 years. Math. Learn it.

Your posts tell me that your 'mentally exhausting' towing experience with your 1500 is probably your fault.

 

[Jane S]

Sometimes you just need to stop arguing with guys like that, we're not going to get anywhere with his attitude.

It is more about being 'right' then learning and teaching proper towing for some posters. They will throw every little thing at you and the kitchen sink to say they are correct.

I lean towards safety and not the crazy 'reasons' people give for giving bad towing advise.

 

[Jane S]

I'll throw in a couple of factors I have not seen mentioned.
1. Who else and what else will you be carrying in the truck besides the hitch and tongue weight ofnthe trailer? For example, my wife and I and the stuff we routinely carry add up to 435#. Butnthats just the two of us. If you are a family of 5 plus your 90# dog and all your stuff, you probably have a lot more.
2. Do you have any after market stuff installed on the truck? That's payload.
2. I use a WDH with my 2500 and it weighs 106# and that's payload too.
3. Where is your storage in the trailer and how much storage do you have? On ours we have little outside storage so I end up with 200# of stuff in plastic boxes in the back 9f the truck...more payload. Also our ability to redistribute weight inside the trailer is very limited.
4. Options on the trailer can greatly effect how much it differs from the published weight. Manufacturer says 6836 #UVW and 946# TW. But on a scale, our real weight is 7034# and 914# TW with full propane tanks and two batteries but no cargo..we have the second AC option and it's in the far back. As we load it, the TW increases to 1020#

So all that payload adds up to 435+200+106+1020=1761. So theoretically we could squeak by with some 1500's. At the time we ordered the trailer I had a Sierra 1500 withn a Payload of 1650 and decided to get a gas Ram 2500. No, I do not need a diesel to pull 7600#. A CTD 2500 with otherwise the same options as mine only has a payload of 2108 son2ith my trailer I'd only have a margin of 2108 - 1761 = 347. Soma hypothetical family of five migght have to leave Rover home

Assume, as you mention, for a 1500 you are near but not over the rating. And you are an occational tower - vacations. You are not going to buy a 2500 in that situation.

You points are good ones. People have to understand the math and do the math.

 

[Jane S]

Physics....go back to school and learn them.

The 1500 would sag like crazy with that much weight on the ball. Because physics, leverage. The further you get from the axle the easier it is to compress the rear suspension. Now, the 2500 rear suspension is a bit more stiff. It still sags, but no where near as much as the 1500. I do it all the time to move my trailer around my property.

And, no, my 1500's were set up properly. I've been towing for over 20 years. Math. Learn it.

"Because physics, leverage. The further you get from the axle the easier it is to compress the rear suspension. Now, the 2500 rear suspension is a bit more stiff. It still sags, but no where near as much as the 1500."

I was not going to reply to this because I thought it would be a waste of time. BUT, I realized that others might read it and think you are correct.

The Physics of the situation is this for BOTH the 1500 and 2500.

Without a proper weight distribution hitch more weight is in the rear as you admit. The front brakes contribute about 60–75% of braking pressure. When there is disproportional weight in the rear of the truck the braking power of the front brakes is reduced; meaning you require more distance to safely come to a stop. It can also lead to the loss of control due to 'porpoise-ing'. In some situation it could lead to poor steering control.

Without a hitch with a proper antisway bar winds can 'fishtail' the travel trailer and possibly leading to loss of control.

Please Tow safely and responsibly.

 

[ramffml]

It is more about being 'right' then learning and teaching proper towing for some posters. They will throw every little thing at you and the kitchen sink to say they are correct.

I lean towards safety and not the crazy 'reasons' people give for giving bad towing advise.

Fact is, you're neither right nor safe. The safe thing would be to tell a towing newbie to be careful, and he's well into 2500 territory with a 30+ foot trailer. Those are the facts.

 

[Jane S]

Fact is, you're neither right nor safe. The safe thing would be to tell a towing newbie to be careful, and he's well into 2500 territory with a 30+ foot trailer. Those are the facts.

Fact is, you're neither right nor safe. The safe thing would be to tell a towing newbie to be careful, and he's well

Don't listen to those who say you should get a 2500.

You will be fine.

Get a Equlizer hitch/sway - don't go cheap here.

Drive slow

Remember you are pulling a sail. Headwinds will be your enemy.

Winds:
Antisway bar
Slow down!

Cut off
Brakes properly adjusted on TT

What you really have to worry about are space aliens.

Fact is, you're neither right nor safe. The safe thing would be to tell a towing newbie to be careful, and he's well into 2500 territory with a 30+ foot trailer. Those are the facts.

You mean like I did in my previous posts?

Fact is: you ignored the safety recomendations in my post to you.

 

[crash68]

The safe thing would be to tell a towing newbie to be careful, and he's well into 2500 territory with a 30+ foot trailer. Those are the facts.

Put your $$$ where your mouth is... Where does it state as a fact that a 30' trailer is for a 2500?? and can't be safely towed with a 1500?

 

[Jane S]

Put your $$$ where your mouth is... Where does it state as a fact that a 30' trailer is for a 2500?? and can't be safely towed with a 1500?

Nowhere!