Towing Camping Trailer

[Riccochet]

FYI, Tulecreeper payload is 3913 lbs in his 2500 6.4

Must be a base model regular cab. Even a stripped down 4x2 tradesman crew cab weighs about 6700 lbs. Curb on my truck is 6900 and change.

 

[Tulecreeper]

Must be a base model regular cab. Even a stripped down 4x2 tradesman crew cab weighs about 6700 lbs. Curb on my truck is 6900 and change.

It is, and I purposely bought it that way for the cargo and towing capacity. The only additional weight is from the tow hooks and the spray-in bedliner I added. I also opted for the 5th-wheel package, which actually probably helped out by removing a couple pounds of steel when they punched the holes in the bad. That's why my cargo capacity is 3913 instead of the 4010 the chart says it should have. I didn't even get carpeting or cloth seats. And my base weight is 5988, but my GVWR is 10,000#.

 

[crash68]

There isn't a CTD 2500 on this planet with a 3000+ lb payload capacity. Anywhere. Ever.

Well that's false, per the SAE J2807:

 

[Jane S]

I thought you were going to stop posting.

It is people like you - spreading bad info - that ruin this forum.

I saw your previous post before you edited. You should give up. Those numbers on google are all wrong. 10k GVWR, CTD 2500's come in around 7700-8200 lbs curb weight. Basic math here, but you subtract the curb weight from the GVWR and BOOM you have your payload capacity.

There isn't a CTD 2500 on this planet with a 3000+ lb payload capacity. Anywhere. Ever.

The 6.4 2500, yes, 2900-3200 payload depending on options.

 

[ramffml]

Well that's false, per the SAE J2807:
View attachment 522102
View attachment 522103

Those charts don't account for features though. Add 4x4, sunroof, bedliner, ramboxes, side steps etc etc and you lose a couple hundred pounds off those charts, you really need to go by the door sticker.

I'm not saying you won't ever find one, but they are extremely uncommon (in my experience anyway) which is what I think the point of his post was.

 

[1 MEAN66]

It is NOT - REPEAT NOT----repeat again---- NOT!!!!!! how much can you PULL!!!! It is what "YOU" -NOT THE TRUCK- can STEER AND STOP!!!!!!! The truck is always better at towing than newbies are. READ what hitch makers advise, trailer manufacture's advise, truck builders advise!!! No one can tell you WHAT to do, as if it doesn't work - the world of cry baby I will sue you people will react. Those of us that have towed - long or far- have learned what is possible - FOR US. Unofficial RULES are: 1) stay under the manufacture gross tow weight ( trailer and ALL the "stuff" in it). 2) And 10% of that on the hitch of the tow vehicle. 3) Stay under the truck manufacture's Gross vehicles weight ( trailer and all it's stuff + truck and ALL its "stuff") and all means ALL stuff - full fuel tanks, full water tanks, food, dishes, bedding, jacks, PEOPLE, all means ALL. If the speed limit says ( ?) that does not mean you have to go that fast - the signs are the MAX LIMIT, not a mandatory speed, nor is it a minimum speed limit! Sometime going 10%-15% WILL save you fuel and actual travel time ( key in the ignition- total drive and stopping time - to key out for the day). By eliminating a stop or two for fuel and pit stops, might just get you there quicker or less expensive. There is an old Popeye/Bluto cartoon that proves this FACT. 4) check fluid levels, air pressures - both vehicles (cold- which means not driven, not the actual air temp.) My rule - as there are a million of those also, is 1 hour after stopping. If you checked them CORRECTLY before you left, NEVER let air out driving on them will raise the pressure, if it is to high they may have NOT have cooled down completely. add only. When you are comfortable towing do not forget to repack trailer bearings and adjust them again correctly.
Towing IS NOT HARD purpose it to get there safe, have fun, and return safe!

 

[1 MEAN66]

Better yet!!, load your unit up as you would if you are traveling, go to a truck stop and weigh it on a "CAT" scale - Cat is the brand. it is a great idea to do two weighs. Look at the scale sections so you know how to park on it, or ask someone. 1) Weigh the complete "package". 2) disconnect the trailer put the trailer tongue jack in one section and trailer tires in another. weigh IT and you will get the gross trailer weight and the weight of what's on the tow vehicles hitch, this can not easily be done any other way. It is actually easy to do and Cat guarantees it accurate. Before you weigh stop in at the truck stop counter and let them know what you want to do. Each weigh after the first is less money ( 1 weigh x$$, 2-? weighs additional $) Truck drivers want to get on and off quick as miles are money. I know I was one. WEIGH IT DO NOT GUESS!!!!!

 

[Farmer Fran]

Must be a base model regular cab. Even a stripped down 4x2 tradesman crew cab weighs about 6700 lbs. Curb on my truck is 6900 and change.

Just going by his signature


I have always said GAS 2500 for towing, if you think you need a diesel get a 3500, but that is me.

 

[gofishn]

Have a 2019 Ram 1500 Big Horn, 5.7 Hemi, 3.21 rear, 7100lb GVW, Class IV Receiver Hitch, 8 speed trans. Looking at a Grand Design camping trailer 29'10" length, Hitch weight 581, UVW 5857, GVRW 7850. Is my truck capable of safely towing this throughout the US? Want to possible pull out to AK. Concerned about wear and tear on truck. Have weight distribution system. Do I need anything else?

take a picture of the tags on teh door frame would you?

 

[gofishn]

Towing stability comes down to how the weight in the trailer is distributed within the trailer and the WDH set-up with the trailer. I pull a 32' overall trailer(it's heavier than the OP's too) behind my 1500, it stable and usually keep one hand on the wheel with the cruise set.

View attachment 521854
The OP doesn't need a 2500 to tow the trailer in question.

Say what you will about the picture but
... that semi will never notice the trailer is back there.

LMAO

 

[Doug Ram]

There is one possible problem I see with this combination. First the good - having the load-leveling is a great idea since it will shift some of the axle weight to the front. Without it the front would feel very light and could result in driving problems.

Not sure I understand your statement "having the load-leveling... will shift some of the axle weight to the front". To me "load leveling" means adding airbags or air adjustable shocks to raise the rear suspension. While this levels the truck and can firm up the ride, it does NOT shift weight from the rear axle to the front of the pickup. In fact it does not take any weight off the rear. Nada/ Zip. I've tested. Worse using load leveling can mess with the anti-sway set up on most weight distributing hitches, because it reduces the amount of weight on the weight distributing bars, and that reduces the anti-side to side friction, cutting the anti-sway.

If the rear sits too low the weight distributing hitch needs to be adjusted so the WDH is distributing the weight forward in the pickup. Once the truck is level, and it still purposes, then adding a stiffer shock is appropriate.

I've learned this by towing RV,s boats and many different trailers for 45 years. A properly set up WDH on a truck with appropriately stiff springs and suspension is the way to go. Just adding load leveling to an improperly set up WDH (or none at all) with an inadequate tow vehicle can be very problematic.

As you are configured now, you are right at 10% but remember, as has been said, that weight is dry weight. When you add, say, 100 gallons of water (fresh, gray water, black water) plus whatever else you (and the wife) add to the trailer then you will be under the 10% rule. Tongue weight is very important as it can lead to more sway if it is too low. You may need to read up on how to measure tongue weight (there are hitch balls with built-in tongue weight scales). You may need to look into how you load the trailer and maybe spend some time at a truck scale. One important addition is a good brake controller that lets you apply the trailer brakes without using the truck brakes. Doing that is a good way to stop trailer sway.

And sometimes adding load to an empty trailer increases hitch weight. Common mistake is to set up a WDH with an empty trailer, and its usually not the water weight that is the main problem (because most people travel without much water). Before setting up a WDH the trailer should be fully loaded for the trip. It should be full of propane first of all. It should also be loaded with the weight of everyone's heavy stuff you carry, as you will carry it: The grill, outside furniture & carpet, kids toys, linens, towels, clothing, beer, soda, water, laptops... Adding 500-1500 lbs of stuff often changes how the WDH should be set up, because its impossible to distribute the weight perfectly...

 

[Riccochet]

It is, and I purposely bought it that way for the cargo and towing capacity. The only additional weight is from the tow hooks and the spray-in bedliner I added. I also opted for the 5th-wheel package, which actually probably helped out by removing a couple pounds of steel when they punched the holes in the bad. That's why my cargo capacity is 3913 instead of the 4010 the chart says it should have. I didn't even get carpeting or cloth seats. And my base weight is 5988, but my GVWR is 10,000#.

You're the exception though. You really have to want a stripped down regular cab truck. Most people are buying crew cab's. Can't even find the regular cab 2500/3500's on lots because they don't sell outside of fleet and service trucks, who usually order them.

 

[Farmer Fran]

You're the exception though. You really have to want a stripped down regular cab truck. Most people are buying crew cab's. Can't even find the regular cab 2500/3500's on lots because they don't sell outside of fleet and service trucks, who usually order them.

Very true. The funny thing, my Ford and Chevy buddies do not grasp this

 

[Tulecreeper]

You're the exception though. You really have to want a stripped down regular cab truck. Most people are buying crew cab's. Can't even find the regular cab 2500/3500's on lots because they don't sell outside of fleet and service trucks, who usually order them.

It's not as stripped down as you would think. It still has way more bells and whistles than I need. And the reason I have a RAM is because neither Chevy or Ford would let me order what I wanted. They both said I had to take what was on the lot, which were all WAY more truck than I would ever use...and WAY more money than I was willing to spend. Their loss. Not that I don't love this new truck, I certainly do. But I had a Chevy 1500 that treated me real good for over 20 years so I figured I would stick with them for my new one. But I'm not so brand loyal that I will bite the bullet and pay $50k+ for something I can't use. They weren't willing to work with me, I'll take my money elsewhere.

I also had a nice chat back in November with a Ford salesperson and their sales manager when I went to them about an F-250. They told me the same thing the Chevy guy did. They also told me that Ford had allotted their dealership only 22 F-250's for the 2023 model year. He said he had already taken orders for those 22, but that was it; they couldn't get any more unless they bought them from another dealer.

 

[Scrounger]

Giraffe Eating Popcorn GIF | GIFDB.com

 

[Bandit1859]

Have a 2019 Ram 1500 Big Horn, 5.7 Hemi, 3.21 rear, 7100lb GVW, Class IV Receiver Hitch, 8 speed trans. Looking at a Grand Design camping trailer 29'10" length, Hitch weight 581, UVW 5857, GVRW 7850. Is my truck capable of safely towing this throughout the US? Want to possible pull out to AK. Concerned about wear and tear on truck. Have weight distribution system. Do I need anything else?

I would want a 2500 as when you get all your stuff it will be pushing the limt

 

[farout75]

Have a 2019 Ram 1500 Big Horn, 5.7 Hemi, 3.21 rear, 7100lb GVW, Class IV Receiver Hitch, 8 speed trans. Looking at a Grand Design camping trailer 29'10" length, Hitch weight 581, UVW 5857, GVRW 7850. Is my truck capable of safely towing this throughout the US? Want to possible pull out to AK. Concerned about wear and tear on truck. Have weight distribution system. Do I need anything else?

IMO the length of the trailer is something you will regret. I would suggest the next size smaller. Even with an equalizer hitch you just might be holding tight to that steering wheel. By the time you add your personal belongings and three people in the truck and all the other "must haves" you are over loaded. The most some trailer sales places will suggest is a 6,000 to 7,000 lb trailer for a RAM 1500. Give it some serious thought. A 1500 is still considered by many as a light truck. Towing big 30 ft trailers is best for one made for 2500 .

 

[man n black]

I see these threads here all the time.

Alot of folks quote weights and say "you'll be just fine with a 1500 and load levelling.... don't believe the 1500 naysayers etc".

In my pic here, you'll note that this trailer empty, even well within the weight limits of my combo, without levelling bars or sway control attached, sags the back of our 2500 with Carli progressive overloads.




Towed exclusively with that truck, I have (several times) driven this 31 foot trailer (Keystone Cougar 31RLT) literally from the Monterey shore..up to Olympic National Park across Canada and all the way back and forth across America from the Florida Panhandle to Denver, to Los Angeles, The Dakotas..you get the picture.... Both unmodded and modded (Carli overloads, Thuren suspension system, airbags and tuned).

Quoted to be 31 feet, that trailer was 35 feet from tongue to tail and I think a listed 7000 lb empty. Well within the limits of the 2500 Cummins combo. Your smaller bumper pull I suspect is no different. You will for 100% certainty carry tankage (propane, batteries, tanks) and belongings - food etc..its just a part of what makes RV life great.

Having roadraced cars and motorcycles and driven other vehicles across this country many times, here's a few things that were stressful..even with my well under weight limits, totally dialled (flat towing) setup:

High winds - In my experience, extremely common from St. Louis to Hollywood. Worst in Nebraska and the Mountain Desert West

Strong Thunderstorms with heavy rains- common everywhere, often with high gusty winds, hail (ice) and anytime you're in the mountains or northern latitudes it can start snowing

Long Steep Freeway Grades - I'm talking places like Eisenhower, The Grape Vine, Sierra Nevada, Grants' Pass and the Kooteneys. Dont be fooled theres a few out East too.

My point in saying all of this is NOT to discourage you. Some of the absolute best times in my family's life has been RVing, even when we have been stranded for months due to mechanical breakage.

What I'm trying to point out is that conditions can change very quickly out on the road, particulary in areas you may not be familiar with or rural areas. IF your setup is on the edge in the best of conditions, I think you will find that it can get out of hand pretty quickly.

For the folks saying just drive slow..well...

You IMHO should be able to safely and competently go AT LEAST as fast as the Commercial Trucks in MOST conditions. Otherwise you're in for very long stressful days of being bullied by the truckers..particularly on long steep downgrades in the wet. THIS is where the 2500/3500, the Cummins in particular inspires confidence...because of the exhaust brake. Even compared to the motorcoach we have now with its 3 stage Jake.

For my money....match the trailer to the truck you have; keeping a good safe margin for error. There are some smaller very light 5th wheels out there, and those tow immeasureably better in high winds. IF you want the long heavy bumper pull, get a 2500 for sure, preferably the Cummins AND sway control. YMMV

Happy Towing,
Chris H

 

[Tulecreeper]

I see these threads here all the time.

Alot of folks quote weights and say "you'll be just fine with a 1500 and load levelling.... don't believe the 1500 naysayers etc".

View attachment 522163




For my money....match the trailer to the truck you have; keeping a good safe margin for error.

Chris H

One of the best statements I've read on the subject. Buy the RV to match the tow vehicle you have available. The main reason I got the truck I did. We will be in the market for a full-time RV in the not-too-distant future so I got the truck with the best tow/cargo capacity I could. Now that I have that, I can comfortably shop around for a TT it will pull easily...which is pretty much all of them. Of course, I have 40+ years of towing experience and YMMV.

 

[tron67j]

Say what you will about the picture but
... that semi will never notice the trailer is back there.

LMAO

Because that trailer won't be there for long. That is right around where maximum turbulence would be, bet that trailer would be reduced to just a rolling frame. Great picture for these discussions though.