Towing Help! 2023 Ram 1500 5.7L V8 eTorque, 4x4, Crew Cab, short bed, 3.21

[KJ6MTJ]

Just my experience pulling with my 2019 Ram 1500 Bighorn.

This is our second RV trailer that we have owned. We had a 2020 Wildwood X-Lite 24RLXL (28.5 feet) but now we have a 2021 GD Transcend 260 RB (31.5 feet) with a 2019 Bighorn (1788 payload) 5.7 without E-torque, aftermarket brake controller, Bighorn base package with 3.21 gears. Trailer empty comes in at 6300 lbs and max is 7700.

You know when you are pulling it but its not all that bad, then again I've pulled many trailers throughout the years. Have to dial in that weight distribution hitch then your golden. I roughly get about 9.5 mpg towing. I mainly say in the Southeastern corner of the US so it's fine for what we need it for. I keep my tires at 40 psi (max cold 51 psi 2535 lb rated tires) and they are not light truck tires but I have heard switching over to LT's can really help stiffen out the ride.

Only mods done are a K&N filter and mild Flowmaster muffler to hear some more of that V-8. 2 NMO antenna mounts professionally installed for my Amateur Radio equipment and CB. Oh yea I do have to say I disabled the Automatic Noise Cancelling system. Does away with that dreaded drone caused by the frame vibrators and different sound signals put out to combat noise it thinks its to... There is a wiring harness that bypasses the mics and can find it in Amazon for 20 bucks.

73's = Best Wishes
John KJ6MTJ

 

[man n black]

We did the same thing, bought the truck and then bought the Airstream. Truck was a good idea but the Airstream not so much.

So, do this:
1. Add up the weight of the 4 people
2. Add up the weight of the dogs
3. Assume a weightndistributingnhitch weighsn100# (mine weighs 106)
4. Add up the weight of everything you have in or on the truck that wasn't on it from the factory. Misc cargo, running boards and other Add ons etc.
5. Add all the weights of steps 1 - 4 or better yet just load all the people and stuff and drive on to a cat scale.

From there, if you didn't use a scale, subtract the total weight of 1-4 from you 1620 payload or if you did use a scale, subtract that weight from your 7100# GVWR. The result is the payload remaining for trailer tongue weight.

I know my wife and I and our stuff is 435. Assume 75 a piece for the kids and 50 each for dogs and 100mfor a hitch. I'll further assume nothing else in the truck and no add on accessories. That adds up to 785. 1620-785 = 835 available for the trailer. Assume a tongue weight of 13% of total loaded trailer weight. 835÷.13 = 6423# max trailer weight IF all my assumptions are true and IF you are willing to totally max out the truck ( bad idea). Finally, remember manufacturers advertised weightsnare dry weights and you always have more stuff than you think.

Lotsa threads on here about the subject, but in this thread these 2 quotes here are spot on; particularly the second one. Excellent info there but @Cactusmonkey it would be great if you could expand on your experience either here or via PM to the OP since you have intimate knowledge of what the OP was asking (1500 w / Airstream)

I would add OP that a longer bumper pull trailer will adversely impact your truck more than you might think, despite its weight and you'll also want to factor in the weight of a generator / inverter from your trucks' GWVR..I mean..YOU DO want to use that gucci convection microwave, AC unit and TV while camping right?

For brevity here are my most recent thoughts on the "tow with 1500 subject", although this poster was looking to max his truck (always a bad idea).

I see these threads here all the time.

Alot of folks quote weights and say "you'll be just fine with a 1500 and load levelling.... don't believe the 1500 naysayers etc".

In my pic here, you'll note that this trailer empty, even well within the weight limits of my combo, without levelling bars or sway control attached, sags the back of our 2500 with Carli progressive overloads.

View attachment 522163


Towed exclusively with that truck, I have (several times) driven this 31 foot trailer (Keystone Cougar 31RLT) literally from the Monterey shore..up to Olympic National Park across Canada and all the way back and forth across America from the Florida Panhandle to Denver, to Los Angeles, The Dakotas..you get the picture.... Both unmodded and modded (Carli overloads, Thuren suspension system, airbags and tuned).

Quoted to be 31 feet, that trailer was 35 feet from tongue to tail and I think a listed 7000 lb empty. Well within the limits of the 2500 Cummins combo. Your smaller bumper pull I suspect is no different. You will for 100% certainty carry tankage (propane, batteries, tanks) and belongings - food etc..its just a part of what makes RV life great.

Having roadraced cars and motorcycles and driven other vehicles across this country many times, here's a few things that were stressful..even with my well under weight limits, totally dialled (flat towing) setup:

High winds - In my experience, extremely common from St. Louis to Hollywood. Worst in Nebraska and the Mountain Desert West

Strong Thunderstorms with heavy rains- common everywhere, often with high gusty winds, hail (ice) and anytime you're in the mountains or northern latitudes it can start snowing

Long Steep Freeway Grades - I'm talking places like Eisenhower, The Grape Vine, Sierra Nevada, Grants' Pass and the Kooteneys. Dont be fooled theres a few out East too.

My point in saying all of this is NOT to discourage you. Some of the absolute best times in my family's life has been RVing, even when we have been stranded for months due to mechanical breakage.

What I'm trying to point out is that conditions can change very quickly out on the road, particulary in areas you may not be familiar with or rural areas. IF your setup is on the edge in the best of conditions, I think you will find that it can get out of hand pretty quickly.

For the folks saying just drive slow..well...

You IMHO should be able to safely and competently go AT LEAST as fast as the Commercial Trucks in MOST conditions. Otherwise you're in for very long stressful days of being bullied by the truckers..particularly on long steep downgrades in the wet. THIS is where the 2500/3500, the Cummins in particular inspires confidence...because of the exhaust brake. Even compared to the motorcoach we have now with its 3 stage Jake.

For my money....match the trailer to the truck you have; keeping a good safe margin for error. There are some smaller very light 5th wheels out there, and those tow immeasureably better in high winds. IF you want the long heavy bumper pull, get a 2500 for sure, preferably the Cummins AND sway control. YMMV

Happy Towing,
Chris H

All that being said.....towing and camping with a trailer across this great land has been some of the best times my family has ever had and I would highly encourage everyone to do it...although safely.

Ch

 

[HM_SanDiego]

Ratman6161 Nailed it above in Post #15……since you now own a new truck, unless you figure out that you want an RV that requires a 3/4 or 1-ton truck (using these same methods to determine Tow Vehicle Requirements), go shopping for an RV that fits well within your current Truck’s towing limits.

NEVER listen to an RV salesman regarding what your vehicle can tow - they almost never know the reality and importantly the legality of what your vehicle can tow - they only care about selling you an RV…….

Folks can go about getting into the RV life several different ways - at least the OP FestiVale is trying to avoid overloading the truck he already purchased………

As many have bluntly offered, arguably the best way to match the RV to the tow vehicle would be to select the RV first, and then mate the RV‘s requirements to the appropriately capable tow vehicle/truck, BUT, folks do it the other way around, and match an RV to a currently owned tow vehicle every day - by doing what the OP is now trying to do - select an RV that is within the legal-tow-vehicle weight and size limits Of the tow vehicle.

The last thing anyone should ever do is tow out of class or beyond legal limits for the tow vehicle - if involved in and found to be at-fault in an accident any/all damage, destruction, injury, and catastrophically - Death, will likely NOT be covered by insurance……..

My first RV was a 24 foot toy hauler style bumper-pull trailer - way Heavier than i thought and took from the RV documentation and placard, and unfortunately I did not accurately scrutinize the fully loaded weights of the trailer compared with the half-ton 1500 Silverado truck I had at the time……the VERY first time pulling my new-to-me RV to our favorite desert camping spot, through the mountains, my 1500 Silverado ate a transmission……so, upon getting my truck back with a newly rebuilt transmission, I sold the Silverado, and I went to the local Ram dealer a few weeks later, and came home with a new Ram 2500 CTD……..then a few years later (in my head) it was time to upgrade or up-size everything, so I went out and purchased a 35 foot fifth wheel Toy Hauler, which was fairly soon followed by replacing said Ram 2500 CTD with a Ram 3500 CTD Dually - both the last I owned while still RV’ing…… since my kids are grown and off doing their own things, and I am no longer RV’ing, and I am back to a Ram 1500.

Take your time and research RV’s that FIRST fit what you and your family want to do with it.

Then figure out if there are RV options that your current Ram can legally handle, that you would care to own…..

There are many RV‘s out there that are classified as super-light, especially in Toy Haulers, directed at the half-ton-towable market, but you really need to look closely at the build of these - in my experience these rigs can be built so light weight that they simply don’t hold up…..

RV‘s suffer the most significant Value Loss of most all vehicles……

Some advice:
- Look at and shop gently pre-owned RV’s - New RV’s (like Boats) can lose as much as 50% or more in value in the first few years - super harsh if you find out you don’t like RV’ing or if you decide you need a different rig within the first few years of ownership. Also, a side effect of the Pandemic was that people went out and purchased new and used RV’s, which caused many RV manufacturers to sell out, and literally have back-orders for new units that are or were a few years out for delivery, which then also caused used RV values to jump to screwy higher values - do your best to be patient and to NOT to over-pay an inflated price….

- look at and hopefully select the largest or longest trailer options that your truck can legally tow with the floor plan you and your family really really like - many many first time RV’ers go get a trailer that their truck can tow, only to quickly realize that they want or NEED more space (i.e. a bigger RV), and then they go through the costly process of trading rigs…..

Good luck - have fun - I raised my kids RV’ing, creating lifetime memories for all of us.

 

[osprey92]

Example:
GVWR 5,500
Curb weight 4,000
GCWR 9,500
Passenger Weight 300
Cargo Weight 400
Customization Weight 150

Towing capacity: 9500 – 4000 – 300 – 400 – 150 = 4,650

Payload Capacity = 5500 – 4000 = 1,500

Payload = 300 + 400 + 150 + (0.15*4650) = 1,547.5

The payload with this towing capacity assuming a tongue weight of 15% (insert yours) of the trailer would exceed the payload capacity of the truck. To then calculate the towing capacity from there, we would need to determine the weight of the trailer that would not exceed a payload of 1,500.

Payload = 300 + 400 + 150 + (0.15*Trailer Weight) = 1500

This would give a max towing capacity of 4,333 (with 15% tongue weight).

However, with a 10% tongue weight, the weight would not exceed the payload capacity.

This is why it is important to consider both the payload capacity and the towing capacity when determining the actual safe towing weight.

 

[CaptOchs]

I have heard of the 20% rule, but I feel the 30% rule is better. I went as low as having a 18% available (tow capacity) and that wasn't great. Even with a good WD kit. I'd recommend finding a trailer that's around 5600 lbs. Your max tow is 8108 - 30% = 5675. I have a few campers between 5000-7200 along with various tow vehicles.

Additionally, look at hitch weight. Last time I looked for campers there were two campers. Nearly identical in size and weight. One had a 900 lb hitch weight and the other was 700 lb. The wife liked the 700 lb one better anyway. It tows great.

 

[Ronald E Shelton]

Most people own or buy the truck before the trailer. How else you going to get it home?

After I lost my second TT in a hail storm, I rented a truck solely for the purpose of taking the replacement home.
I thought the TT was much safer with me than the dealer!

 

[rosco11]

You are looking at it wrong. It is not the trucks capacity to tow that is important. It is the trucks ability to STOP that is important. Second is suspension. THIRD is the durability of the transmission. Then power. With a 1500 series, towing short distance, 5000 is safe. long distance on the freeway, you are going to overheat the brakes and the transmission. If you want to tow 5000lbs or more down the highway for hours at a time, get a 2500. Not for the deisel, but for the suspension and braking capacity.

Trailer brakes are all fine, but at some point in the braking process, even just to slow for traffic, the disks on your 1500, towing a 5000lb trailer, are going to be dealing with over 11000 lbs of weight. The disks are going to get very hot. The pads are going to wear excessively. Get the 2500. Even a used one will be better than a new 1500 if you plan on doing a lot of traveling with a heavy trailer. Or get a tow beast. A 3500.

 

[dillardgl]

Good luck purchasing your first Rv. There are many great channels on youtube that deal with this subject. One is KYD, and Big Truck Big Trailer. I definitely agree with the other post about buying a gently used TT to start with. Do your reviews on them. Grand Design is a really good make and Jayco. But for sure if you enjoy Rving it want be long before you want a bigger one!

 

[Jane S]

Most people own or buy the truck before the trailer. How else you going to get it home?

You bought the truck before you knew what TT you wanted.

"before you knew what TT you wanted" key words dude

 

[darioa]

I put your numbers in my spreadsheet and you can definitely tow a 6200 lbs GVWR TT. However, when I add a trailer with 6500 lbs GVWR, I'm over the limit on several items, including GVWR of the truck, tongue weightrating, payload, and rear axle weight rating. I have a Lance 1995 with a GVWR of 6200 and that is fine with 1200 lbs of cargo in the TT and 560 lbs of payload on the truck.

 

[Lockie5]

Need tow package for sure, hopefully you got 3.92 rear ratio. Consider trans cooler. Pulled trailers and loads my whole life since 14 years old - 65 now. You’ll be fine with a beefed up 1500 for most camping trailers. You keep upgrading a couple feet, better plan on a new 2500

 

[MrMagumba]

I have a payload similar to you. My trailer is 5080 lbs. Here is how it looks on a scale. First with wt dist, then no wt dist, then no trailer. I don't have to worry much about where I load stuff. Just throw it in the cab, box or trailer-whatever is most convenient. I still have a little room to grow on the camper. Actually looking at it again, I'm knocking on the door of the 7100 max wt on the truck. Better throw some stuff in the trailer.

 

[Loudram]

There has been some really good advice in this thread and a little not so good. Here's my experience. First off, know your numbers on your truck. A few posts have given you some good ways to figure them out.

The big question is tongue weight of the trailer. You'll run out of payload before you hit your max tow with a 1500. You want the tongue weight between 10% and 15%. Ideally 12%. (I'm at 14%.) Unfortunately you can't know that exactly until it's loaded. However to start with, take the brochure tongue weight and add 100 lbs to that number before anything else. That will take into account the weight of one battery (60 lbs) and 2 full bottles of propane (2 x 20 lbs) The brochure tongue weight only includes empty propane tanks. A battery isn't included either in the weight. Then remember that on most trailer the main storage is the front pass thru. That's where all the gear will go.

My brochure tongue weight is 650 lbs. I have a Weight Safe True Tow hitch with a built in scale. My loaded tongue is between 975 lbs and 1000 lbs. Our trailer is a front bedroom so all the weight from the stuff in the front pass thru and the clothes in our bedroom along with an upgraded and heavy queen mattress and a weight distribution hitch brought me to this number. The tongue weight adds up quickly.

For reference my trailer is 29' long and weighs 6050 lbs dry and 7200 lbs loaded. I don't put much stuff in my truck and I am within 150 lbs of my max payload. This is my fourth trailer. I've had a 27' , two 33', and this one. All towed with a 1500 using an Equalizer hitch before and now the True Tow.

 

[bigal2295]

Bought the factory bolt on hitch from the Dodge dealer for my 2500, same part # for a 1500 at the time (2004) and been towing with it for almost 20 years. Grade 10 bolts will hold to over 10k lbs. Also just look at the trailer MFG's website it will tell you max trailer weights.

 

[Beech35]

Take 600 pounds for you and your family gas and baggage and your left looking for a trailer with a 1,000 pound tongue weight Fully loaded. They’re easy enough to find.

 

[NotSoFast]

If you are thinking of camping where it is cold, a four seasons rating is essential to keep tanks and valves from freezing. Lance trailers could be light enough for you to tow (barely) and still sleep all of the people and critters.

 

[yrraljguthrie]

First, you need to change your mind about the Airstream. They are heavy and don't have much storage. You're probably sacrificing 1000 lbs by towing the Airstream. Lots of other trailers just as nice, lighter, and a lot more places to put stuff. And then quit worrying so much. If you stay strictly within the towing limits that truck will put a 25-foot trailer down the road at 80 mph! The only difference between a pickup with the 3.21 and the 3.96 is just that. No difference in the design or construction of the pickup. Just tow slower than 80mph??? Remember this is how I would do it, but I'm not suggesting you follow my example.

 

[ramffml]

You are looking at it wrong. It is not the trucks capacity to tow that is important. It is the trucks ability to STOP that is important. Second is suspension. THIRD is the durability of the transmission. Then power. With a 1500 series, towing short distance, 5000 is safe. long distance on the freeway, you are going to overheat the brakes and the transmission. If you want to tow 5000lbs or more down the highway for hours at a time, get a 2500. Not for the deisel, but for the suspension and braking capacity.

Trailer brakes are all fine, but at some point in the braking process, even just to slow for traffic, the disks on your 1500, towing a 5000lb trailer, are going to be dealing with over 11000 lbs of weight. The disks are going to get very hot. The pads are going to wear excessively. Get the 2500. Even a used one will be better than a new 1500 if you plan on doing a lot of traveling with a heavy trailer. Or get a tow beast. A 3500.

I disagree with you on the brakes. The Ram's have excellent/large brakes, and your trailer brake should be setup so that it doesn't change the braking effort required to stop. In other words, the trailer brakes will stop the weight of your trailer, and your truck should stop itself, you shouldn't feel any different coming to a stop. I've never read anyone having any issues with the brakes in our trucks while towing or otherwise, they are quite good and again your trailer should stop its own weight. In an emergency going down hill with no trailer brakes, you should be fine coming to a stop using just the truck's brakes, once at least, you don't want to do a whole trip down the mountains like that though.

The weak spot on our trucks when it comes to towing heavy, is suspension. The hemi is strong enough to pull 8000 pounds in either gear ratio, the brakes are rated and strong enough to stop 11,500+ pounds so they will have no trouble stopping 8000 pounds.

However, the suspension is very soft and cushy and the factory tires are squirmy. If those 2 issues are addressed, you will be more than fine to tow 8000 pounds, that just leaves possible heat issues as the truck is programmed to run too hot.

 

[Rockyw]

The Air Stream Is heavy, my Grand Design is 6200 lbs.

 

[NotSoFast]

The Airstreams also don't have 4 Seasons ratings. But they are pretty solidly built, partly because they don't have slide-outs. But that also makes them less roomy. The weight is less of an issue. Some Airstream owners complain about buffing and waxing the aluminum.