Towing the Ram instead of towing with it

[92GreenYJ]

Hey all.

so the wife and I are wanting to do an excursion in March for my kids spring break in our 32 foot class C RV.
Usually when we take the coach out we are pulling my heavily lifted and modified Jeep Wrangler on an 18’ aluminum flatbed trailer behind it as we have pretty much exclusively used it for desert boondocking for wheeling weekends since we have owned it.



Obviously, this set up isn’t gonna work for staying in RV parks and the like. Most aren’t set up to accommodate a 32’ RV with an 18’ trailer behind it. So I want to set up another vehicle to pull behind the coach. My Jeep is way too modified to be street friendly driver and with an Atlas 4 speed, it can’t be flat towed or dolly towed. My wife’s 2011 Grand Cherokee is full time 4wd. It can’t be dolly or flat towed.

apparently my 2014 sport can’t be dolly towed either but it can be flat towed. So I’m curious to know if anyone here has their Ram set up for flat towing behind an RV. If so, what tow bar, base, and supplemental brake system do you use? Likes and dislikes? Etc.

 

[Travelin Ram]

We flat tow the Power Wagon behind a diesel pusher. We’ve towed half tons, Wranglers, and Grand Cherokees flat. Also with a gas class A, all the above except the PW.

I like the RVi brake system because it’s easy for me to move between toads. Lots of good feedback and adjustments of the braking with the wireless remote.

We’ve worn out two Blue Ox tow bars, they last me about 3-4 years with heavy toads on bad roads. Next one I’m going to try a Demco because they seem a little sturdier construction.

Mostly the toads use Blue Ox baseplates. But I’d use whatever brand fit the toad best. Download and read the installation instructions and you’ll see what has to be altered on the front of your vehicle for a particular baseplate. There’s no problem adapting between towbar brand A and baseplate brand B.

Lastly, I’m certainly not the weight police; I’ve violated the “rules” many a time. But I probably wouldn’t tow a full size pickup behind a class C. Flat towing doesn’t transfer tongue weight, but it does exert considerable side loads forcing the toad around corners plus the toad will rut track on worn highways and try to pull you off center.

I hope some of this is helpful.

 

[92GreenYJ]

We flat tow the Power Wagon behind a diesel pusher. We’ve towed half tons, Wranglers, and Grand Cherokees flat. Also with a gas class A, all the above except the PW.

I like the RVi brake system because it’s easy for me to move between toads. Lots of good feedback and adjustments of the braking with the wireless remote.

We’ve worn out two Blue Ox tow bars, they last me about 3-4 years with heavy toads on bad roads. Next one I’m going to try a Demco because they seem a little sturdier construction.

Mostly the toads use Blue Ox baseplates. But I’d use whatever brand fit the toad best. Download and read the installation instructions and you’ll see what has to be altered on the front of your vehicle for a particular baseplate. There’s no problem adapting between towbar brand A and baseplate brand B.

Lastly, I’m certainly not the weight police; I’ve violated the “rules” many a time. But I probably wouldn’t tow a full size pickup behind a class C. Flat towing doesn’t transfer tongue weight, but it does exert considerable side loads forcing the toad around corners plus the toad will rut track on worn highways and try to pull you off center.

I hope some of this is helpful.

that is certainly helpful and a place to start. I appreciate it. I was on etrailer earlier looking at some of the options out there. My only experience flat towing is way back when my Jeep wasn’t quite as heavily modified and I used a cheap harbor freight tow bar and pulled the Jeep behind my old 97 Ram 1500.

I rather like the looks of the DEmco Commander 2 bar and their base plates. 6k rating on the bar.

https://www.etrailer.com/Tow-Bar/Demco/DM9511012.html

since I really only have 1 vehicle that can be set up as a toad I was looking at a permanent mount brake set up. Getting one I can move from vehicle to vehicle isn’t really a concern but I will look into the one you suggest.


As for the weight, part of the reason we bought this particular RV is because it has a 7,500 lb tow rating. That package pictured above comes in right around 6,500 lbs. the aluminum trailer only weighs 1300 lbs and the Jeep is about 5k. I have also hauled my Ram on that trailer before behind the RV. Felt a little more sluggish than with the Jeep, but it pulled it quite well on the trailer. I would imagine pulling it four down without the extra weight of the trailer would be no problem.

 

[tron67j]

I would also check the following out, it provides information by year. Good luck

https://www.wkcdjr.com/flattowing.htm

 

[92GreenYJ]

I would also check the following out, it provides information by year. Good luck

https://www.wkcdjr.com/flattowing.htm

yeah I found that link thru an RV forum. Confirmed in my owners manual my 2014 Sport can be flat towed. Now it’s just a question of what to set it up with to do it. I found this nice little set up also from the RV forum that I am now strongly considering as it is the tow bar set up and has a surge brake system built into it and included in the price. Just need to pick whatever companies base plate I like the best and order accordingly.

https://www.readybrake.com/store/p88/HERCULES_TOW_BAR.html

I realize the brake system wouldn’t really be easily transferred but since the Ram is the only vehicle in my stable I can flat tow it’s not that big of a deal.

 

[Travelin Ram]

Readybrake gets a lot of positive feedback on the RV forums.

 

[caulk04]

I'm assuming your wifes Grand is a single speed transfer case then? They're very frequently flat towed, but must have a low range t-case that can select neutral.

To me it seems it would be worth the limited hassle of finding parking for the trailer you already have setup vs the added cost of equipping the Ram to be flat towed. Especially since you could offload the truck first and then use it to move the trailer around much more easily than with the RV.

 

[92GreenYJ]

I'm assuming your wifes Grand is a single speed transfer case then? They're very frequently flat towed, but must have a low range t-case that can select neutral.

To me it seems it would be worth the limited hassle of finding parking for the trailer you already have setup vs the added cost of equipping the Ram to be flat towed. Especially since you could offload the truck first and then use it to move the trailer around much more easily than with the RV.

yeah her Grand Cherokee is the single speed transfer case. No way to put it in neutral.

I could haul the Ram on the trailer, I’ve done it before. But I’ve read a lot of people saying most RV parks won’t really be able to accommodate a set up of that size. With the trailer attached I’m pushing about 53’ in overall length. I can definitely maneuver the trailer easier with the Ram. I typically do when we get back from the desert as it’s easier to get the trailer tight to the curb with the truck than it is with the RV.

 

[2003F350]

yeah her Grand Cherokee is the single speed transfer case. No way to put it in neutral.

I could haul the Ram on the trailer, I’ve done it before. But I’ve read a lot of people saying most RV parks won’t really be able to accommodate a set up of that size. With the trailer attached I’m pushing about 53’ in overall length. I can definitely maneuver the trailer easier with the Ram. I typically do when we get back from the desert as it’s easier to get the trailer tight to the curb with the truck than it is with the RV.

Most RV parks can handle your camper and truck without issue, and usually have a place for 'extras' like boats, dollies, etc. somewhere for those who need it. You've got an average sized camper and a 1500, that's a pretty common combo to have for an average family. And really, a lot of RV parks that are worth their salt have been working toward gearing up to handle the REALLY big rigs, your 40'+ monsters plus their vehicle of choice, which is often a truck.

I've been RVing my entire life, and I think one time we came across a campground that couldn't handle our setup (this was 20 years ago). That campground has since made some changes and can handle the big units.

Now, if you're talking state and national forest campgrounds, those do tend to be smaller...but I don't really count those as RV parks, either.

In short, if you wanted to pull your 1500 on the trailer, I think you'll find most RV parks will be more than happy to find a place to park your trailer while you're staying with them - but I'd invest in a good hitch lock first. There are rare instances of theft, and a lot of RV parks try not to cover that even if it happened on their property.

 

[rbruce]

Hi all,
Great post! Any of ya still on here?
Soon we will be flat towing our 2019 PW. We know the Class A we get can do it.
So my question is. What did OP end up going with? I have been told by a few trailer hitch shops there is no set up that will work due to winch and some extra bracing for stiffening front end.
I have many skills but I know squat about flat towing. Ant help is greatly appreciated.

 

[2003F350]

Hi all,
Great post! Any of ya still on here?
Soon we will be flat towing our 2019 PW. We know the Class A we get can do it.
So my question is. What did OP end up going with? I have been told by a few trailer hitch shops there is no set up that will work due to winch and some extra bracing for stiffening front end.
I have many skills but I know squat about flat towing. Ant help is greatly appreciated.

Older thread but I would suggest looking at eTrailer.com or even calling them up - people are pulling PWs behind motorhomes (someone in this thread even said he was doing it, maybe direct message him?) so there's got to be a setup that will do it. Your local hitch shops probably just don't carry it because, let's face it, as a previous PW owner there aren't a lot of them on the road and WAY fewer being pulled behind motorhomes.