Truck stalls when tugging on crank sensor

[boolinhemi]

So I took the upper intake area apart, cleaned off the maf, and put it all back and it had no check engine light. Was idling great. THOUGHT I was successful, but after about a minute the truck stalled again. Start it back up, check engine light is on. All codes are gone though, except for p0335. Crank sensor. The first code from the start.

I got under the truck, and tugged on the crank sensor wire. It made the truck stall. Then, after the truck would not crank back up for 5 minutes and back firing, I got back under the truck and tugged the wiring again. This time, while a buddy was trying to crank it and I was underneath tugging the wire, it started up. How can I fix this wiring harness to where this stops?

 

[Jimmy68]

Stop tugging on it maybe. Lol.

 

[Ricks Ram]

Stop tugging on it maybe. Lol.

Lol I was waiting for that one! ....you may be able to fix the plug by taking it off and inspecting the plug and the Crank Sensor for any contamination or lose connections. Sometimes you can bend the prongs a little to help the connection if they are lose. If allof thst fails to correct the problem you may be able to buy a replacement connector and wire it in or find a good one in a wrecking yard.

 

[boolinhemi]

Jimmy, your car needs you:



To the other guy - where does the other end of the crank sensor wiring go? Does it go directly to the ecu? Do you think the pulling of the wire is shorting out at the sensor or at the ECU/other part of the loom

 

[boolinhemi]

This truck is driving me up a wall. I decided to try the cam sensor, bought a new one and installed it. Everything was working GREAT. The truck was running FINE. No check engine light. Then on the third trip, it decided to say hey, screw you. And it died. Stalled. Check engine light. AGAIN. I really can't understand what problem would lay dormant for 4 consecutive starts and at least 10 miles of driving per trip, as if the new cam sensor fixed the problem, and then all the sudden pop back up like it wasn't the cam sensor. This is getting to be outside the realm of reason.

 

[RonJon '06]

I thought you had found the problem in the crankshaft position sensor wiring. If it were me I'd do like Ricks Ram says and inspect the connector and wiring and if you can't fix it get a replacement and splice it in.

 

[boolinhemi]

I explained above that the cam sensor was acting like it was the problem for miles and miles. Why would the cam sensor fix the problem for all those miles and the truck act like that's the fix, but then all the sudden the Phantom code comes back like it's something else even though it was JUST working after a new cam sensor when before the new cam sensor it wouldn't do anything but stall.

 

[RonJon '06]

If you've got a bad/cracked wire or loose connector it can work fine one minute and not the next. In your other thread I mentioned the same thing happened to me with a vehicle I owned, had it back to the dealership several times and thought it was fixed each time.

If you have a voltmeter you could try testing the wires in the harness. I believe there is 5V coming from the PCM and as the tone wheel on the crankshaft spins either 0V or 5 V returning to the PCM from the sensor. It could be the PCM but for me the fact that moving the harness causes the engine to stall points to a bad connection.

 

[RonJon '06]

Wait, in another thread did you mention you've already replaced the crank sensor wiring and connector?

 

[boolinhemi]

Thank you for the input but yes, I replaced the crank sensor and some of the wiring. Then put in a new cam sensor. Still giving me codes and stalling

 

[boolinhemi]

Truck is running fine now. Rather than get bent over by the dealer I decided to throw some cash down on a oem crank and oem cam sensor and did them myself. The problem has not been back since. Anyone having these same issues and phantom codes, just replace your sensors with oem all at once, clean off your throttle body and maf sensor with maf cleaner and do the factory ECU reset:

1) With the key out of the ignition 2) Disconnect the Negative battery Cable. 3) Put the key in the ignition and turn it as if you where trying to the START it. 4) Release the key and leave it in the “ON” position and let it sit for 10- 15 min 5) Remove key from the ignition. 6) Re-attach the negative battery cable. 7) DO NOT TOUCH THE THROTTLE when starting the truck for the first TWO times!!! 8) Put the key in the on position but dont start the truck and wait for 15 seconds. 9) Take key out. Start truck and let idle till it reaches operating temperature. Turn truck off for 5-10 seconds. 10) RE-START the truck but DO NOT TOUCH THE THROTTLE! 11) Let the truck return to normal idle (500-600 RPM’s) 12) Turn truck off, and then start her up and let idle drop back to 5 to 6k rpms again, and take her for a LIGHT test drive… NO WOT testing yet. 13) After driving around the block letting your computer LEARN the new air flow turn her off one last time… 14) Fire her up and drive her the way you want.