Turning off check engine light

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Runaround

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I have a 2018 Cummins equipped 2500. My check engine light came on several days after i disconnected the grid heater cable from the relay. I’m not sure if that caused the light or not but I reconnected the cable and now I want to know how to turn the light off without a scanner. I tried disconnecting both batteries for about 10 minutes but the light still comes on.
Is there a way I can turn it off?
 

62Blazer

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Sure, check what code has been set and correct the problem. Seriously, you need to hook up a scanner and see what specific code is showing up. Chances are that is the light is still on after disconnecting the battery then the code is still active, or basically the problem is still there. A code scanner or diagnostic tool will give you the option to erase the codes and will turn off the light.......but as mentioned above if the problem is still there the light will turn back on (sometimes immediately, sometimes it takes a drive cycle).
Checking the code is the only way to know for sure where the problem is coming from. Decent chance it's related to you messing with the grid heater if the light came on immediately after, but always a chance it is something else.
 
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Runaround

Runaround

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Sure, check what code has been set and correct the problem. Seriously, you need to hook up a scanner and see what specific code is showing up. Chances are that is the light is still on after disconnecting the battery then the code is still active, or basically the problem is still there. A code scanner or diagnostic tool will give you the option to erase the codes and will turn off the light.......but as mentioned above if the problem is still there the light will turn back on (sometimes immediately, sometimes it takes a drive cycle).
Checking the code is the only way to know for sure where the problem is coming from. Decent chance it's related to you messing with the grid heater if the light came on immediately after, but always a chance it is something else.
Here is what O’Reillys scanner shows. As I said everything was working, no light before disconnecting the cable and now it’s been driven several hundred miles and restarted numerous times.
 
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Runaround

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I can’t get the picture to load but the codes are P2509 and P2609.
 

mtnrider

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Have you tried clearing the code using a scanner? Did you maybe short something out when you disconnected the cable? Where did you disconnect it at?

.
 

Dodge 1500 4X4

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Have you tried clearing the code using a scanner? Did you maybe short something out when you disconnected the cable? Where did you disconnect it at?
Was the engine running when you disconnect it, you may have shorted something out by doing so, you need a reliable scanner to diagnose and reset code.

Also, change your signature for your current truck.
 

Burla

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Look up hard reset, 10 minutes isn't enough, try it for an hour. You say you disconnected something, as in just unplugged it and now its back in? no other issue or cutting or pulling? just popped a plug?

if so reset should clear code.

Sounds like this did cause the cel since it is a heater code.
 

Burla

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You will get a CEL when you delete the grid heater this way, I'm guessing in texas it is useless item and effects performance. You can try and pull wire on solenoid for the delete, and not mess with relay. Or look up correct way to delete, good luck to you.
 

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The generic trouble code P2509 power input signal intermittent refers to an engine with an intermittent electrical signal to the Electronic Control Module (ECM) otherwise also known as a PCM or Powertrain Control Module.

Read LOTS more at: https://www.obd-codes.com/p2509
Copyright OBD-Codes.com
 

GTyankee

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P2609 Intake Air Heater System Performance

intake air heater.
An intake air heater is an essential component for a diesel engine to assist the starting process

Read LOTS more at: https://www.obd-codes.com/p2609
Copyright OBD-Codes.com

Trouble code P2609 is triggered by the PCM when it detects a performance problem within the intake air heater system. The circuit may be out of range, contain a faulty component or have improper airflow. Various malfunctions within the circuit may be present and can be physical, mechanical or electrical.

examples:

1733555013213.png
1733555050913.png
 
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Runaround

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Thanks to all who have responded to this.
I know I did not short anything because I followed the battery cable from the grid back towards the battery and found the solenoid (I called it a relay ) down on the frame near the oil filter and disconnected the cable there, not on the battery side.
I don’t have a scanner to use to clear anything. I hope to get one soon.
I will try disconnecting the battery for a longer time when I get a chance to do so.
In the meantime it is reconnected and I will just have to ignore the light.
I will probably be needing the grid heater the week before Christmas because I will be going to work in Montana that week.
I will read the links that were sent in the responses.
 
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turkeybird56

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1) If MIL light is a temporary code, than it will clear in an *** amount of drive cycles if problem corrected.
2) If temp code, you can clear if you buy a decent scanner/reader that can clear codes, NOT just a reader.
3) If MIL light is due to a permanent code, that MOST scanners cannot clear a perm code. Perm code will clear after *** amount of drive cycles if the issue that caused the perm code is fixed/or no longer present, detected by the computer.
 
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Runaround

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I have driven the truck and shut it off multiple times for about two weeks and driven several hundred miles also but the light is still on and as I said I reconnected the cable and I’m sure I have a good connection.
 

Tominator223

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Take both battery cables off & hold them together for 30-45 seconds . This will usually clear everything. If the codes come back you Have a Problem
 

Burla

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Thanks to all who have responded to this.
I know I did not short anything because I followed the battery cable from the grid back towards the battery and found the solenoid (I called it a real) down on the frame near the oil filter and disconnected the cable there, not on the battery side.
I don’t have a scanner to use to clear anything. I hope to get one soon.
I will try disconnecting the battery for a longer time when I get a chance to do so.
In the meantime it is reconnected and I will just have to ignore the light.
I will probably be needing the grid heater the week before Christmas because I will be going to work in Montana that week.
I will read the links that were sent in the responses.
From what most guys report you can still start your truck in the cold, it just takes a little longer. Makes you wonder if grid heaters were better choices then glow plugs. No matter how many times I tried, I always forgot to let the glow plugs heat up before starting the rig, but the rig started up all the time anyhow, shrug. Instead of putting an obstruction in the air flow I wonder why not have something "like a small hair dryer" that can actually increase flow and shut off in 3 minutes after start. have a good time in Montana..
 

62Blazer

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The P2609 sounds like what you would expect when disconnecting the grid heater. As stated if it throws the code once it may stay for awhile if you don't have a scanner to clear it. Or there is a chance you didn't get it connected back up all the way, damaged the wiring or connector, shorted it out, etc....

The P2509 is an intermittent power signal going to the ECM. Not sure why this code would pop up when disconnecting the grid heater? Maybe you accidentally bumped a wire or a connector when working under the truck? Maybe it has nothing to do with messing with the grid heater and just a coincidence?

In any case you need to verify if both codes are still active or not. Meaning that maybe the P2609 is not active which means the P2509 code is what is actually causing the MIL light, or vice versa.
 

David Oakes

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A dying battery or slight corrosion o the battery posts is apparently the most common cause of the p2509 code.
 
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Runaround

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Thanks for the replies. My CEL finally went back off for a couple of days.
 

diymirage

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From what most guys report you can still start your truck in the cold, it just takes a little longer. Makes you wonder if grid heaters were better choices then glow plugs. No matter how many times I tried, I always forgot to let the glow plugs heat up before starting the rig, but the rig started up all the time anyhow, shrug. Instead of putting an obstruction in the air flow I wonder why not have something "like a small hair dryer" that can actually increase flow and shut off in 3 minutes after start. have a good time in Montana..
i used to have a tired old superdookie with the 6.0 diesel
it needed to run the glow plugs or it would not start, period

so i added a digital volt meter to the dash
that way, when i turn on the ignition the glow plug light on the dash would come on, but that thing is on a timer and has nothing to do with the actual glow plugs

with the volt meter, id turn the ignition on and it would read 12.4
then it would send power to the plugs and show 11.8
once the plugs were hot, it would come back to 12.4 and i knew i could crank it and she should fire right up

what a hassle that was
 

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