Undercoating. Russian Roulette?

[RoadKing]

I was thinking i might like to do some under carriage protection. I realize the tar based products trap moisture between the product and the metal.

But seems there is a market for professional and diy undercoating. My truck will be 2 years old in Aug and there is some rust underneath.

Anyone have experience with Rustoleum Undercoating?

It looks like it goes on thin and looks almost like paint.

Just like to give the under area a fighting chance but it feels risky to just start spraying. Of course i will clean under there good.

Appreciate you feedback.

Thanks.

 

[Treburkulosis]

When I was restoring my 67 Camaro, I cleaned up the surface rust with a wire wheel. Then I used a good primer and then POR 15. You wont have any issues with it.

 

[Nick_rp]

Prep is always the key when it comes to applying anything that has the potential to trap moisture. If your doing it in your driveway in the dead of winter... yea... you will probably trap some liquids.

Best case scenario is you find some sort of climate controlled enclosure, let the beast dry out and prep prep prep

 

[RoadKing]

I will let LineX do it. They use a product called ValueGuard. ValueGuard rep says Ram endorses it. I confirmed with Ram.

 

[mikeru]

When I was restoring my 67 Camaro, I cleaned up the surface rust with a wire wheel. Then I used a good primer and then POR 15. You wont have any issues with it.

I'm not looking to get into a POR 15 war, but I've used it and had very mixed results. The only time I had good results with it was when I could completely remove the rust. After 10 years the rust hasn't come back. But where I applied it over any areas that still had a small amount of even surface rust, it would come back with a vengeance. It has its place, but I wouldn't recommend using it on any area that isn't rust free.

 

[Dodge 1500 4X4]

But where I applied it over any areas that still had a small amount of even surface rust, it would come back with a vengeance. It has its place, but I wouldn't recommend using it on any area that isn't rust free.

Hi Mike, I learned years later that POR-15 is like a primer and needs a top coat of lets say Rustolium, I also read that it needs rust to adhere to the panel, I did this and never had rust in that area for some time.

 

[Travelin Ram]

Rustoleum is one of many rubberized products. The kind that are notorious for trapping moisture and concealing rust, not preventing it.

Oil or wax based is the way to go. Easy DIY too, no expensive tools needed. Fluid Film, WoolWax, or any of their competitors. YouTube has many comparisons and tests to review.

The oils will also creep into crevices and protect places the others will never reach.

 

[pacofortacos]

Personally, I am pretty happy with my local ziebart rustproofing. Truck is 5 years old and looks like new - never washed underneath, maybe gets washed on the outside 2-5 times a year, sits outside in the elements. Northeast brine state. Time will tell.

My 2001 Dakota had a heavy grease/oil based rustproofing - which worked well, until it didn't. It washed off even when following the rec. touchup every 2 years. Ended up replacing all of the brake lines/trans lines.
Worse than that, it was just a nightmare to work on, you came out just covered in grease oil - no one wanted to do any work to it, not even me

 

[RoadKing]

I think i will apply POR-15 were i see rust then let LineX spray the ValueGuard.

 

[PoMansRam]

There isn't a one size fits all solution for rustproofing/undercoating. Painting over anything with sharper edges or corners like you'll find on the underside of the floor pans, rockers and cab is going to be a never ending battle no matter what you apply.

I've been applying fluid film and woolwax myself for a few years on all my vehicles. It does make a greasy mess under the vehicle, but I'd rather deal with that than rust any day. Like said, FF or WW washes right off of areas that get heavy road blast, so you have to be mindful of those areas. Each time you re-apply the product it gets easier and less product needed.

Probably the best wax/oil type product you'll find is noxudol, but it's expensive. They sell different types for cavities, seams, etc.

My father-in-law against my advice, went with ziebart for his 2017 Nissan Frontier. It's the black flexible stuff that dries to a shiny, hard, little mess to the touch surface. You pay one price and get free yearly re-coats provided you don't go beyond the year. What a freaking nightmare this stuff is. Everything is encased in this mess, including moisture pockets, surface rust etc. You can no longer get to wiring connections unless you're able to scrape and peel this stuff off first. He's due for his 3rd "free" re-coat in a few weeks. Every time you go it's a sales pitch to sell you a remote start, paint or interior sealant, 3M clear protective wrap, etc.. Smart marketing for them.. I have to hand it to them for that.

 

[RaptorHD]

Ok, do it right, do it with the idea of not having to do it again!

https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-rust-encapsulator-platinum-gallon.html
https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-internal-frame-coating-14oz-aerosol.html
https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-2k-ceramic-chassis-black-satin-and-activator.html

I restore cars, I know plenty of people that do, use those products and you wont be posting on here about rust on your frame ever again,,,apply it once ---one and done>
Other stuff you apply every year, oil based.
I do not like zebart or other tar based stuff as it will separate from the frame/body with time. I have seen plenty of cars from the north with zebart and RUST!