Update - Speakers and amp upgrade questions

[LeeD]

In my install the Net Audio t-harness and AC LC2i Pro worked great, but obviously not installs are exactly like mine which I understand.

I'd be able to figure out the Axxess t-harness easily, but audio is a hobby of mine. The OP is not like that. I'm not calling him dumb by any means, just that audio isn't a hobby of his or so I take it from his post. I think the Net Audio harness is slightly easier to use. Nothing to cut off, color coded per aftermarket standard, and specifically designed to use a LOC like the AC LC2i Pro, and only slightly more expensive.

He will or has read our posts, and will make his own decision based off of our discussion.

I am using the LC2i Pro, and have not had an instance where it didn't work as stated. Just providing real world experience.

LOL... I've been called worse!
But you're right. Audio isn't a hobby of mine so that's why I've read so much on this forum and asked questions. The extent of my high level audio installations (besides 8 track players) was installing better head units, speakers and powered subs on my daughters cars. I've also changed out the simple head units on a few of my cars, mostly to upgrade the functions.

I think I'll so with the LC6i and associated harness as I'd like to keep the fader function.

I've already got the 5 channel amp on the way so once I get the rest of the parts I'll do the install. Likely will have additional questions so thanks again for all of your help!

 

[LeeD]

Morning Lee! These guys are giving you great advice. Only thing I'd change is the wire that was suggested. Buy this stuff instead - $4 cheaper and 2x the amount of wire. It's what I used and worked great. No need to buy metra brand and over pay.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QU1JIE2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Morning Josh! Thanks I'll be ordering that later.

 

[regal81455]

There probably is an even cheaper roll of wire available if you look for a 20' roll. I bought the 40' roll simply because I'll use it somewhere. Just look for a 18 AWG 9 conductor wire bundle in a jacket on amazon. Might be able to score it for $15 +/-.

 

[89grand]

Is the insulation on that wire as thick as it looks in the pics? That's the only reservation I'd have about using it if it is in fact that thick.

 

[regal81455]

Its pretty thick but it still was pretty flexible and that was after adding three more conductors and wrapping it all in tessa tape so i could have 6 pairs.

 

[LeeD]

Well it's finally finished and working and sounds great but what a royal pain.
First I want to thank regal81455, 89grand and CandianKodiac70 for all of their help and suggestions!
Installing the speakers was a piece of cake and was an immediate improvement in sound. Snaking the two 9 connector cables and 4 gauge power line to the rear was much more difficult but I got it done. Pulling out the dash panel and radio was pretty simple but Crutchfield's instructions were for older Rams with the gear shift on the console so it was different but easy. Installing the NetAudio harness was straightforward but for some reason it didn't come with the power line fused. No problem I just picked up a fuse holder and installed it before the AudioControl LC6i. I set the jumpers in the LC6i to the GTO (great turn on) for turning on when it senses speaker input signals.
Ok everything was connected and it's time to hear some great sounds. Started the truck and nothing!?!. Ok I've read about that here so I reset the LC61 to external trigger and tested it with a 12V jumper. Ok the LC6i powered up and triggered the amp to turn on, but still no sound. All right, I've got this, it needs to see a load so I picked up some 40ohm resistors (found on a search on Crutchfield for load resistors with non-amplified systems) and soldered them in. You guessed it - nothing and the LC6i still didn't turn on with the GTO. Great so now I call Crutchfield customer support. It seems I have the wrong resistors (?) and he recommended the AudioControl line conditioners (20ohm) and sent them right out for no charge. Wish AudioControl or Crutchfield would have had a note about needing those or even that they were available.
So now I've cut out the resistors and installed the AudioControl line conditioners and started the truck. Yes, I now have music! I dialed in the LC6i line outputs according to the instructions and set up the amp and it's sounding great. I shut off the truck and opened the back door and WTF the LC6i and amp are still powered up! Ugh, this thing is really ******* me off. Now I've run a line from the back of the center console's power port to use as an external trigger for the LC6i. While I was in there I decided to switch from signal summing to isolated so I can see if there is a difference. Time for a test. Started the truck and it powered up and shutdown the truck and it powered off. Yay. Went to dial in the signal output and now there is no sound from the left rear door speaker - groan. Ok reset the jumpers to sum all the inputs again and tucked everything neatly away and I'm done!
Would I do this again knowing everything, hell yes it sounds great!

 

[BlownGP]

OK, knowing that helps. I'd get these three things:

This t-harness.

https://netaudio.com/product/2013-18-dodge-ram-radio-t-harness-2/

And this Audio Control device:

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_161LC6IB/AudioControl-LC6i-Black.html

And this wiring:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004H1KAMQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

So, I'm wanting to do the same thing as Lee.

But I am little confused about the problems he was having.

Really was just going to add a sub and amp.
I changed the door speakers and they sound clearer but they just don't get loud enough like there being held back.
So thinking about getting a amp for the door speakers but it seems that's complicated. lol

Any advice.

A better choice for aT Harness is this one from access for thier DSP. Cut the DSP plugs off and connect some speed wire/9 wire to the harness and you're all tied in, and this already has the proper load resistors wired in so no extra cost. Then the other plus, it's cheaper than the net audio on also already, without factoring in the added cost for load resistors.

I have this harness for my truck. Works great.

https://www.sonicelectronix.com/ite...1DqkbEtucLhk91pwYgRmj0g8olPBSaG4aAk3bEALw_wcB

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

The fitment guide says this won't work on my 2018 Ram with the 8.4.
Is it maybe because their DSP it goes with wont work with a 2018?[/QUOTE]

 

[canadiankodiak700]

So, I'm wanting to do the same thing as Lee.

But I am little confused about the problems he was having.

Really was just going to add a sub and amp.
I changed the door speakers and they sound clearer but they just don't get loud enough like there being held back.
So thinking about getting a amp for the door speakers but it seems that's complicated. lol

Any advice.






The fitment guide says this won't work on my 2018 Ram with the 8.4.
Is it maybe because their DSP it goes with wont work with a 2018?

[/QUOTE]

Your 2018 is identical to my 19 classic, it fits.

You are only using it as a t harnes... So the dsp part doesn't apply.


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[BlownGP]

Your 2018 is identical to my 19 classic, it fits.

You are only using it as a t harnes... So the dsp part doesn't apply.


Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk[/QUOTE]

Thanks

So, those three smaller plugs I just cut off and use the those wires?

 

[canadiankodiak700]

Your 2018 is identical to my 19 classic, it fits.

You are only using it as a t harnes... So the dsp part doesn't apply.


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Thanks

So, those three smaller plugs I just cut off and use the those wires?[/QUOTE]Yes sir, the one end that plugs into truck, then the end that plugs into the radio you can leave the little end with the resistors no harm, but you shouldn't need them when using the kicker key as it compensates for speaker load. But i would leave them incase you ever want to jump to a different amp.
The end with the plug that would normally go to a dsp is the end you will use to connect to the key amp.

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[BlownGP]

Ok, the kicker key is a amp. I had to google that. Really nice..

Thanks for all the help.

I was thinking of getting this one for my door speakers.
https://www.amazon.com/Kenwood-KAC-...389&hvtargid=pla-667531865702#customerReviews

 

[BlownGP]

Thanks

So, those three smaller plugs I just cut off and use the those wires?

Yes sir, the one end that plugs into truck, then the end that plugs into the radio you can leave the little end with the resistors no harm, but you shouldn't need them when using the kicker key as it compensates for speaker load. But i would leave them incase you ever want to jump to a different amp.
The end with the plug that would normally go to a dsp is the end you will use to connect to the key amp.

Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk[/QUOTE]


I had my my sub,amp with that Axxess harness installed. Well tired. lol

I had a stereo shop/friend install it. He was a little confused why I wanted to use the harness but did try. But he used those the wires coming off the side flat plug and wired them to the line out converter. We got the sub to work but none of the door speakers worked. We couldn't figure it and I wasn't sure either. lol

I assume it has something to do with the speakers needing to see a load like I've read. But I'm not sure.

So he just tapped the OEM wires off the factory harness and everything works.
I told him I wanted to install a amp for the door speakers soon and he was thinking that harness might work since he only tapped the rear speakers for the sub, the front speakers weren't getting a load. So the head unit shut them all off. That's sorta what we came up with. lol

 

[canadiankodiak700]

That kenwood is only 45w per chan, same as the older kicker key, the new key is 50w/ch. The key also has a built in loc and a sort of auto dsp.
Much easier install, with 100x better sound.


As for that harness not working, not sure what your installer did. It does sound like the hu shutting down the channes due to no load, that's exactly what it will do. That harness has load resistors built in, so the hu shouldn't shut down. Doesn't make sense to me, I'm trying to visually see it in my mind, different scenarios... I dunno. Hummm.....


Why was he using a loc with this harness? And what loc was he using? If the loc was just for a sub, then yes, tap one of your factory rear channels. But for your 4 fronts, just wire the amp in high level with speaker wire input, no need to go to a loc.
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[BlownGP]

That kenwood is only 45w per chan, same as the older kicker key, the new key is 50w/ch. The key also has a built in loc and a sort of auto dsp.
Much easier install, with 100x better sound.


As for that harness not working, not sure what your installer did. It does sound like the hu shutting down the channes due to no load, that's exactly what it will do. That harness has load resistors built in, so the hu shouldn't shut down. Doesn't make sense to me, I'm trying to visually see it in my mind, different scenarios... I dunno. Hummm.....


Why was he using a loc with this harness? And what loc was he using? If the loc was just for a sub, then yes, tap one of your factory rear channels. But for your 4 fronts, just wire the amp in high level with speaker wire input, no need to go to a loc.
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Yeah that would have been nice knowing the Kicker key has a a built in LOC.

I'm thinking since the front speakers weren't tapped and receiving a load maybe while it wasn't working.

I used a Wavtech Link4 LOC. I used it so I could get RCA signals to my Sub amp. Plus was going to use it for the kenwood amp for my door speakers.