Warped Rotor, daily driver

[CAGEYAR]

As mentioned, brake vibration or pulsation at the pedal is not due to a physical warping of the rotor but due uneven transfer of pad material to the rotor. This can be reduced greatly if not completely eliminated using a brake rotor hone. They come in a variety of grits and are low cost way to resolve vibration/pulsation:

 

[crash68]

Lets say you decide to replace the front rotors and pads for even wear in....Do you replace the rear as well, even though they don't engage as much as the front?

If your going to a different type/compound of brake pad on the front, change the rears too.
I've felt noticable difference when the shop replaced the work vehicle brakes front or rear only brakes with a "heavy duty" type pad and the other was not (or OEM).

 

[RamHemi18]

I typically replace the rears every other time I replace the fronts (general practice, not Ram specific), even if there still is meat left on the rears.

My thought process is, I have all my tools out, I would hate to have to add an additional day of work, to just do the rears when they wear out. Pads are cheap, so doing the job a little earlier really only saves me some pad life.

But as I said, I replace the rotors every time. So, I was going to replace the rear rotors anyways, so the only difference in doing it early is the life left in the pads.

Makes sense. I've got a buddy who's a mechanic and he typically does rears every other as well. Unless the vehicle is new to him then he changes everything as a precaution, then changes every other after the original replacement

 

[RamHemi18]

If your going to a different type/compound of brake pad on the front, change the rears too.
I've felt noticable difference when the shop replaced the work vehicle brakes front or rear only brakes with a "heavy duty" type pad and the other was not (or OEM).

Makes sense. You would want more or less bite in the front vs rear. Sounds like you would want your pads to match.

 

[RamHemi18]

As mentioned, brake vibration or pulsation at the pedal is not due to a physical warping of the rotor but due uneven transfer of pad material to the rotor. This can be reduced greatly if not completely eliminated using a brake rotor hone. They come in a variety of grits and are low cost way to resolve vibration/pulsation:
View attachment 495945View attachment 495944

I might have to look into one of these to see if I can clean up the old ones. Or just to have on hand if I start to get a bit of vibration.

 

[BillyNC]

One thing no one mentioned is the possibility of a frozen caliper. I had rotors turned, and replaced but my vibration persisted. My tire guy lifted the truck, spun the wheels and immediately knew the problem from the resistance. After the calipers were replaced my problem was solved.

 

[TomB 1269]

I typically do not replace rear pads until needed. Then unless there is a major issue with the rotor, I scuff with sand paper and install new pads only. I usually use a decent pad but may not go to the level of pad I have on the front. Rear brakes do less then 15-20% of actual braking under normal conditions (towing or hauling a load in the bed will use rear brakes more).
On our trucks (that are not towing or hauling a load in the bed regularly) will use the rear brakes more for traction control then actual braking function.

As this is my 1st rear drive / 4 wheel drive with traction control I will be inspecting the rear brakes more frequently, however in the past I have know to go well over 80000 miles before touching the rear brakes.