What did you pay for your 2018 Laramie 2500?

[Mr Kay]

Hello!

I am going to be purchasing a Laramie 2500 before the end of the year and I am trying to get a better understanding of how the dealers work. I have never purchased a new truck I have always purchased used for cash. From what I have seen in other "What did you pay" threads people are usually trying to get the the base price for the model they are trying to purchase. Would that be accurate? is it reasonable to shoot for that number?

For example in this sticker The high dealer price is $68,095 but the base price is $52,795 if I was negotiating should I hold out for the $52k price?

 

[Hootbro]

You are on that side of the country and I would recommend looking up Dennis Dillon in Idaho. They are going to be the lowest OTD pricing you can get.

Every dealer plays ball different. Some you can negotiate 5% off invoice and others 10%-12% off total sticker price. In your example, you vehicle is loaded and you are not going to get $16K off the total unless there is some stacking unique rebates.

Lastly, no matter how good of a deal you get, somebody is going to say they got one better. Squeezing every nickle until the buffalo burbs out of a deal is great if you do not value your time.

Good luck.

 

[dstryr]

9-10k off the MSRP is probably going to be your best deal. I bought end of November. There were several dealers offering similarly deep discounts. Very few dealers had the 2500 long bed ctd with the options I wanted. The truck I decided on was in Golden, CO, west edge of Denver. Must-haves: white, crew cab, 4wd, 8’ bed, auto-level rear suspension, diesel, tow hooks and gooseneck/5th wheel prep. Optional was the Laramie package which I’m glad I chose. Literally there was nothing closer than Denver in white with 8’ bed other than tradesman models. Expect to be driving this one for ever.

Anyway, check Christopher‘s Dodge World, Woodhouse, Dennis Dillon, they’re not discounting much past their rock bottom internet pricing. There may be other discounts you could be eligible for(military for example) $500 or so, but you’re going to buy very competitively if your deal is in the ballpark of the big volume dealers mentioned. Good luck!

 

[Mr Kay]

Thank you guys! This dealer says they do low up front pricing and this model they were offering for $56,*** and I thought it was a good price but just wanted to be sure.

 

[lobsterbake]

I got $12500 off of a 2018 Laramie 2500 Cummins that stickered for $65505 and was ordered from factory which is 19% off. Could I have gotten a better deal on an ordered truck? Maybe if I drug the process out for months, but in the end I was happy. Good luck and enjoy your truck when you get it.

 

[mtnrider]

For example in this sticker The high dealer price is $68,095 but the base price is $52,795 if I was negotiating should I hold out for the $52k price?

$52K is the price of a "base" (stripped) truck, not a high dealer price. You add options such as the Laramie package and the price goes up. That is what you see in the end as $68K. You would never get that truck for $52K.

Like other have said, expect to be in the $8K-$10K range off the $68K. So you should be able to get into that particular truck for around $60K give or take. Of course area, time or year, current rebates all affect that but that's a good goal to shoot for.

.

 

[dblankenbaker]

Thank you guys! This dealer says they do low up front pricing and this model they were offering for $56,*** and I thought it was a good price but just wanted to be sure.

I was going to say check out Bill Luke in Phoenix, but your deal looks comparable to Bill Luke's.

 

[mtofell]

Dennis Dillon sells for about 80-82% of MSRP all day every day. Use that as a negotiating tool with your dealer or make the drive if you're close enough. After much haggling I paid 81% to my local dealer back in 2014.

Forget all dealer BS terms like invoice, holdback, incentives, etc, etc. The only #s that matter are MSRP (set by the manufacturer) and what you pay. Everything else is just BS.

 

[sandawilliams]

Dennis Dillon sells for about 80-82% of MSRP all day every day. Use that as a negotiating tool with your dealer or make the drive if you're close enough. After much haggling I paid 81% to my local dealer back in 2014.

Forget all dealer BS terms like invoice, holdback, incentives, etc, etc. The only #s that matter are MSRP (set by the manufacturer) and what you pay. Everything else is just BS.

And if your trading something in nothing matters but the difference. The games they play with their new price and your used price means nothing. The bottom line is what counts.

 

[mtofell]

And if your trading something in nothing matters but the difference. The games they play with their new price and your used price means nothing. The bottom line is what counts.

Yes, absolutely.... the dealer I ended up buying from was a total douchbag. He actually had the balls to bring out a false KBB sheet. I had NADA and KBB sheets for my trade printed out and in my pocket. Funny how his was 8K less for the exact same truck than mine. With all of the information available on the net these days dealers are really getting creative about how they try to screw you. In the end, I sold on Craigslist in a couple days for 5K more than they offered. Apparently, the diesel truck market was only "soft" at their dealership

 

[Mr.AK902]

I was able to get 20K CAD off of my 17 sport when i purchased.... it was a left over on there lot. I bought end of year from a high volume Ram dealer( High volume dealers get greater rebates and kickback from Fiat on year end for total sales, thus giving them more room to play with pricing) I also didn't come across as desperate, found the truck on line and called them to talk. Told the sales manager up front what I was willing to pay and that I had no interest in going back and forth on pricing. I let it sit with them for 3 months, and took delivery the next day with no hassle. Do your research, figure out what YOU want to pay, present them your offer and hold to it. If they won't make it work, find a dealer that will. Don't give in out of desperation.

They are in business to make money, and they make piles of it off of mark up. Patience is your best friend here.

 

[sandawilliams]

Yes, absolutely.... the dealer I ended up buying from was a total douchbag. He actually had the balls to bring out a false KBB sheet. I had NADA and KBB sheets for my trade printed out and in my pocket. Funny how his was 8K less for the exact same truck than mine. With all of the information available on the net these days dealers are really getting creative about how they try to screw you. In the end, I sold on Craigslist in a couple days for 5K more than they offered. Apparently, the diesel truck market was only "soft" at their dealership

That's why only the bottom line counts. If you get a vehicle down in price on paper the dealer is going to make his profit on low balling your trade. On my last truck, after much negotiation, they would only give me auction price on my trade. That's far less than even trade in price. I sold my trade myself and came out thousands ahead.

 

[Random_Walk]

Yes, absolutely.... the dealer I ended up buying from was a total douchbag. He actually had the balls to bring out a false KBB sheet. I had NADA and KBB sheets for my trade printed out and in my pocket. Funny how his was 8K less for the exact same truck than mine. With all of the information available on the net these days dealers are really getting creative about how they try to screw you. In the end, I sold on Craigslist in a couple days for 5K more than they offered. Apparently, the diesel truck market was only "soft" at their dealership

This is why one should *always* sell their trade-in vehicle separately from purchase. This way you can get bids from at least three dealers on the vehicle you;re trading in, and play them against each other. It's a bit of work, but the difference is almost always more than worth the time and effort.

If you sell the old vehicle before buying the new, you have a huge *** of money to put down (and the accounting is way simpler when you do F&I for the new vehicle). If you sell it after, you can always drop the money from the sale into the principal of the note for the new vehicle, then refinance it at a much lower payment (and possibly rate).

 

[Hootbro]

This is why one should *always* sell their trade-in vehicle separately from purchase. This way you can get bids from at least three dealers on the vehicle you;re trading in, and play them against each other. It's a bit of work, but the difference is almost always more than worth the time and effort.

If you sell the old vehicle before buying the new, you have a huge *** of money to put down (and the accounting is way simpler when you do F&I for the new vehicle). If you sell it after, you can always drop the money from the sale into the principal of the note for the new vehicle, then refinance it at a much lower payment (and possibly rate).

One has to be careful with that strategy. Trade-in in most states reduces the tax liability on the purchase vehicle. Bringing in straight cash with no trade allowance offset and you are paying 100% of the new purchase vehicle value tax rate. The difference between private party sale of old vehicle beforehand vs. just trading it in wholesale may be a wash or a loser sometimes.

 

[Random_Walk]

One has to be careful with that strategy. Trade-in in most states reduces the tax liability on the purchase vehicle. Bringing in straight cash with no trade allowance offset and you are paying 100% of the new purchase vehicle value tax rate. The difference between private party sale of old vehicle beforehand vs. just trading it in wholesale may be a wash or a loser sometimes.

Yeow...

Did not know that (Oregon has no sales tax, at least not outside of a stupid and tiny "luxury tax" for vehicles worth over $20k.)

 

[Hootbro]

Yeow...

Did not know that (Oregon has no sales tax, at least not outside of a stupid and tiny "luxury tax" for vehicles worth over $20k.)

Delaware does not have state sales tax but for vehicles, they levy a 4.25% "Document Fee" (same thing as a sales tax basically) at registration for purchase price minus ones trade-in value. When I bought my current RAM, my trade in saved me close to $2K in taxes. Basically that means I would have to at least get $2K above what a dealer trade-in value would give in a private party sale to be a wash on the tax difference.

 

[Aussie-John]

AHAHAH! Lucky you don't live down here in Australia - Asking $109K!!

 

[Mr Kay]

So we got the new truck! 2018 Ram 2500 4x4 diesel ended up getting it for $55k and got them to throw in electronic running boards installed by them. I absolutely love it! Following the correct break in process for the power train and rear end so I’m taking it easy but man this thing has tech and is such a smooth ride!