What DON'T you like about your RAM?

[SitKneelBend]

I sit corrected.

You may be partially correct, I don't know the tire height of the factory spares.

I would think driving on a tire with a different outside diameter (the spare 17) would be bad for something?

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[tones2SS]

Word of advice, when you start the truck up and shift to drive, hit the gear selector - button first, and then hit the + button until in your gauge cluster the gear limiter moves to 8. This essentially shuts off MDS and allows the truck to shift normally in the full 8 cylinder capacity.

I've been doing that, but sometimes I can hear this weird noise under the truck like when the MDS is on. Like when the truck is downshifting. I have a FLOWMASTER Outlaw direct replacement muffler, so the MDS is louder.

That's why I drive over 45 MPH and then I do the gear-/gear+ buttons and then I don't hear that noise anymore. Seems to work for me for some reason?
Could it be that "ECO MODE" is on??

 

[south7west]

I've been doing that, but sometimes I can hear this weird noise under the truck like when the MDS is on. Like when the truck is downshifting. I have a FLOWMASTER Outlaw direct replacement muffler, so the MDS is louder.

That's why I drive over 45 MPH and then I do the gear-/gear+ buttons and then I don't hear that noise anymore. Seems to work for me for some reason?
Could it be that "ECO MODE" is on??

Not to my knowledge, no. I've got a Carven Exhaust and I can hear when MDS would kick in, and since I have been playing with my gear selectors, I have not had it switch on once since. The ECO light and MDS are separate as well, as the ECO light comes on when your active MPG are above a certain number. Normally they just turn on at the same time.

 

[tones2SS]

Not to my knowledge, no. I've got a Carven Exhaust and I can hear when MDS would kick in, and since I have been playing with my gear selectors, I have not had it switch on once since. The ECO light and MDS are separate as well, as the ECO light comes on when your active MPG are above a certain number. Normally they just turn on at the same time.

Sounds good.
I'll have to give it another go tomorrow. Thanks.

 

[TestPilot57]

I would think driving on a tire with a different outside diameter (the spare 17) would be bad for something?

Unless you have a clutch type LSD (which modern RAM's are not, as far as I know) it is no different than going around a corner. And NASCARs do that all day long.

I understand that some vehicles (for instance, I believe the Mazda CX3) uses tire speed sensors to "detect" low tire pressure*, rather than actually measuring it with a traditional TPMS valve stem. In that case, you would probably get a low tire pressure warning. But as far as I know, RAM still uses the conventional method.

*the tire that is low on pressure will be making more revs/mile due to the effective smaller diameter.

 

[SitKneelBend]

Unless you have a clutch type LSD (which modern RAM's are not, as far as I know) it is no different than going around a corner. And NASCARs do that all day long.

I understand that some vehicles (for instance, I believe the Mazda CX3) uses tire speed sensors to "detect" low tire pressure*, rather than actually measuring it with a traditional TPMS valve stem. In that case, you would probably get a low tire pressure warning. But as far as I know, RAM still uses the conventional method.

*the tire that is low on pressure will be making more revs/mile due to the effective smaller diameter.

That's good to know, thanks!

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[WSeanMac]

adding another item... not really 'hating' it but .... you can see the turn signals on this truck from space! when I am sitting at a light with the turn signal on at night, anything remotely reflective anywhere in the vicinity of the front of the truck is flashing like crazy. The traffic light housings are all flashing etc... it's pretty crazy. If I turn of the signal they stop so none of the other cars are causing this to happen. I just think it's funny how bright they are.

 

[JoeCo]

adding another item... not really 'hating' it but .... you can see the turn signals on this truck from space! when I am sitting at a light with the turn signal on at night, anything remotely reflective anywhere in the vicinity of the front of the truck is flashing like crazy. The traffic light housings are all flashing etc... it's pretty crazy. If I turn of the signal they stop so none of the other cars are causing this to happen. I just think it's funny how bright they are.

And yet they still have nothing on those ambulances LEDs...man those things are blinding when you are behind them and they tap the brakes...guess it serves its purpose though.

 

[TestPilot57]

adding another item... not really 'hating' it but .... you can see the turn signals on this truck from space! when I am sitting at a light with the turn signal on at night, anything remotely reflective anywhere in the vicinity of the front of the truck is flashing like crazy. The traffic light housings are all flashing etc... it's pretty crazy. If I turn of the signal they stop so none of the other cars are causing this to happen. I just think it's funny how bright they are.

I love that effect...

 

[Omegasupreme]

The hitch receiver on the hd. Why is there so much play??? Even with the sleeve. I hit a bump and it's flopping around.

 

[corneileous]

The hitch receiver on the hd. Why is there so much play??? Even with the sleeve. I hit a bump and it's flopping around.

Could be whatever hitch you’re using too. My steel tri-ball hitch I bought from Walmart long time ago had what I felt was like typical hitch play. The aluminum Smittybuilt 2” drop hitch I had, had quite a bit of play but the new WeighSafe drop hitch I have now fits my receiver like a glove. I still use the hitch tightener that I bought for it just because to minimize as much wiggling as possible since it is aluminum as well.

But if you think about it, you might wanna get you an actual hitch that matches your receiver tube and stop using that silly sleeve. That just adds a whole ‘nother area for slack.
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[Livinalittle]

I can’t really complain because it’s modification related...but since you asked lol.

Ever since installing the retroshop HID kit on my low beams and fog lights I’ve had two minor irritations.

1. When I turn my fog lights on the radio goes static. (Probably just need to relocate a wire or capacitor to eliminate the interference; and

2. If I’m driving at night and flipping between low and hi beam, I can’t have my lights in auto, they have to be turned to the ON position. If I don’t the lights will change from hi to low because of the light reflecting back from street sign and worse, will sometimes turn off completely when switching from hi to low; Leaving me in the dark. I think this problem is related to the sensor sensitivity. I don’t plan on selling my truck and my wife knows how to prevent the problem so I don’t plan on fixing it.

In hind sight though, I probably would have went with an LED conversion instead of HID. Bulbs would last a lot longer and I think there would be less interference due to the lower draw.

 

[SitKneelBend]

I can’t really complain because it’s modification related...but since you asked lol.

Ever since installing the retroshop HID kit on my low beams and fog lights I’ve had two minor irritations.

1. When I turn my fog lights on the radio goes static. (Probably just need to relocate a wire or capacitor to eliminate the interference; and

2. If I’m driving at night and flipping between low and hi beam, I can’t have my lights in auto, they have to be turned to the ON position. If I don’t the lights will change from hi to low because of the light reflecting back from street sign and worse, will sometimes turn off completely when switching from hi to low; Leaving me in the dark. I think this problem is related to the sensor sensitivity. I don’t plan on selling my truck and my wife knows how to prevent the problem so I don’t plan on fixing it.

In hind sight though, I probably would have went with an LED conversion instead of HID. Bulbs would last a lot longer and I think there would be less interference due to the lower draw.

I've had LEDs do the same thing (radio interference). No amount of cable management would change it. I now use Hikari LEDs in the fogs without issue. They'll probably go on sale for around $20-25 on Black Friday/Cyber Monday.

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[corneileous]

I can’t really complain because it’s modification related...but since you asked lol.

Ever since installing the retroshop HID kit on my low beams and fog lights I’ve had two minor irritations.

1. When I turn my fog lights on the radio goes static. (Probably just need to relocate a wire or capacitor to eliminate the interference; and

2. If I’m driving at night and flipping between low and hi beam, I can’t have my lights in auto, they have to be turned to the ON position. If I don’t the lights will change from hi to low because of the light reflecting back from street sign and worse, will sometimes turn off completely when switching from hi to low; Leaving me in the dark. I think this problem is related to the sensor sensitivity. I don’t plan on selling my truck and my wife knows how to prevent the problem so I don’t plan on fixing it.

In hind sight though, I probably would have went with an LED conversion instead of HID. Bulbs would last a lot longer and I think there would be less interference due to the lower draw.

I got my LED’s/HID’s from Vanquish Auto and I haven’t had that problem with static.

But as far as the light in auto mode, the only problem I’ve had is with my automatic highbeams being on the fritz because of the brighter light. The auto highbeams work ok I guess, but not near as well when I had the lesser bright lights. As far as the completely shutting off, line haven’t done that.

I thought about just going total LED but the dude I bought my lights from said the HID’s would be better for the factory projectors.


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[JoeCo]

I thought about just going total LED but the dude I bought my lights from said the HID’s would be better for the factory projectors.


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I've had both in projectors, the led's are getting pretty close in performance in my opinion. At this point I was over and done with HIDs after having regular problems with them over the years. So if the led's can make it 2 years without having a problem, they win for me. With the led's I was able to contain everything within the head light, no mounting anything outside of them. I'm hoping that's going to make the difference for the long term. I think the balasts just get cooked fast in our harsh northeast rust belt environment.

I'm curious about the radio interference (I never use my radio), I'll have to check that out next time I'm in the truck. Although this time around I've used alfaobd to change some settings around for the changes I've made, not sure if that solves that problem or not?

 

[Ribtipram]

I would like to see the mirrors on my 2500 be lit amber all the time and then flash for turning. They stick out so far they should be lit up.I know there is a way to do this but dont feel like taking the doors covers off and what not. Any easier ways.

 

[corneileous]

I've had both in projectors, the led's are getting pretty close in performance in my opinion. At this point I was over and done with HIDs after having regular problems with them over the years. So if the led's can make it 2 years without having a problem, they win for me. With the led's I was able to contain everything within the head light, no mounting anything outside of them. I'm hoping that's going to make the difference for the long term. I think the balasts just get cooked fast in our harsh northeast rust belt environment.

I'm curious about the radio interference (I never use my radio), I'll have to check that out next time I'm in the truck. Although this time around I've used alfaobd to change some settings around for the changes I've made, not sure if that solves that problem or not?

I’ve never had neither before these. The HID’s are pretty badass. The LED’s in the highs are pretty badass too.

So far I haven’t had a single problem. They’ve worked flawlessly. The HID’s take a little bit to brighten up when cold but it’s of no issue at all.

I wasn’t crazy about having to drill a large hole in the back covers of my headlight housings but it’s also of no issue. I was just worried about water intrusion but so far, no problems at all.


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[JoeCo]

I would like to see the mirrors on my 2500 be lit amber all the time and then flash for turning. They stick out so far they should be lit up.I know there is a way to do this but dont feel like taking the doors covers off and what not. Any easier ways.

I'd be interested in changing that as well, perhaps with alfaobd?

I’ve never had neither before these. The HID’s are pretty badass. The LED’s in the highs are pretty badass too.

So far I haven’t had a single problem. They’ve worked flawlessly. The HID’s take a little bit to brighten up when cold but it’s of no issue at all.

I wasn’t crazy about having to drill a large hole in the back covers of my headlight housings but it’s also of no issue. I was just worried about water intrusion but so far, no problems at all.


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Loved the HIDs performance, but just couldn't get the reliability out of them (and it's never a convenient situation when one of your lights goes out randomly, or at least it never was for me). Mine worked flawlessly til the day they didn't, never had any issues with water or the bulbs, always the balasts. If I lived in a different part of the country I would try running them again, but up here it just seems like asking for trouble in my experience (my last set was my 5th, ranging from cheap to not cheap). Since the LEDs have caught up enough to the HIDs, I had to give them a shot this time and really think they have a good chance of not giving me issues. Time will tell though, these may just have some other problem I'm not even aware of yet.

I also didn't mind the warm up time, but good call on the LEDs for high beams for the instant light. I still have HIDs in my 66 buick since that doesn't get exposed to the elements like my trucks do. I'm curious to see how the LEDs would do in those housings though, I might do it and see if it cuts down on the glare. I need to run something in that car though other than the stock "candles" is what I would describe them as in terms of their effectiveness.

 

[SitKneelBend]

I’ve never had neither before these. The HID’s are pretty badass. The LED’s in the highs are pretty badass too.

So far I haven’t had a single problem. They’ve worked flawlessly. The HID’s take a little bit to brighten up when cold but it’s of no issue at all.

I wasn’t crazy about having to drill a large hole in the back covers of my headlight housings but it’s also of no issue. I was just worried about water intrusion but so far, no problems at all.


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I'd be interested in changing that as well, perhaps with alfaobd?




Loved the HIDs performance, but just couldn't get the reliability out of them (and it's never a convenient situation when one of your lights goes out randomly, or at least it never was for me). Mine worked flawlessly til the day they didn't, never had any issues with water or the bulbs, always the balasts. If I lived in a different part of the country I would try running them again, but up here it just seems like asking for trouble in my experience (my last set was my 5th, ranging from cheap to not cheap). Since the LEDs have caught up enough to the HIDs, I had to give them a shot this time and really think they have a good chance of not giving me issues. Time will tell though, these may just have some other problem I'm not even aware of yet.

I also didn't mind the warm up time, but good call on the LEDs for high beams for the instant light. I still have HIDs in my 66 buick since that doesn't get exposed to the elements like my trucks do. I'm curious to see how the LEDs would do in those housings though, I might do it and see if it cuts down on the glare. I need to run something in that car though other than the stock "candles" is what I would describe them as in terms of their effectiveness.

My two cents...LEDs get dimmer the longer they are on but are brightest when first switched on. This coupled with their "instant on/off perception" makes them well suited for high beams.

HIDs get brighter the longer they are on (to a point), this makes them well suited as low beams.

The technology behind both has come a long way over the years. A good cheap HID setup that is very compact and fits easily in headlight housings is made by a company called Innovited. I use their 35w 5000k kit.

My favorite LED bulb is the Hikari Ultra (not the regular Hikari).

These coupled with AlfaOBD gives you great lighting, without all the extra parts, drilling and error messages.

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[JoeCo]

My two cents...LEDs get dimmer the longer they are on but are brightest when first switched on. This coupled with their "instant on/off perception" makes them well suited for high beams.

HIDs get brighter the longer they are on (to a point), this makes them well suited as low beams.

The technology behind both has come a long way over the years. A good cheap HID setup that is very compact and fits easily in headlight housings is made by a company called Innovited. I use their 35w 5000k kit.

My favorite LED bulb is the Hikari Ultra (not the regular Hikari).

These coupled with AlfaOBD gives you great lighting, without all the extra parts, drilling and error messages.

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Good info, thanks! I didn't know about the kit from Innovited but I'll have to check those out, if my LEDs end up letting me down within the next few years I could see giving a kit like that a chance. How long have you had them in your truck?

I actually did go with the Hikari Ultras for my lows/highs and am pleased with them as I think they are close to the HIDs I've had in the past. I've also been using alfaobd for the past few days and going through and updating things over to LEDs, although the highs and lows never gave me an issue but just figured I might as well. I had some fog lights that I installed that were fine for 2 weeks and then started to flicker, changed that over with alfaobd and so far they've been flawless again. What a handy tool! Also had to visit the fog light dropout function and fix that, nice to have lows/highs and fogs all going without having to hold the handle!