TestPilot57
Senior Member
Interesting. And interesting that it's called that. Guess it's a carry over from the old days when you could flood the intake."Clear Flood"
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Interesting. And interesting that it's called that. Guess it's a carry over from the old days when you could flood the intake."Clear Flood"
Interesting. And interesting that it's called that. Guess it's a carry over from the old days when you could flood the intake.
As a diagnostician, I can use it to load the ignition coils under high compression for misfire root cause analysis whilst running a relative compression test with an oscilloscope.I posted about this yesterday here: Post in thread 'low oil pressure' https://www.ramforum.com/threads/low-oil-pressure.195973/post-2744105
It gets its name "Clear Flood" because it disables the pulses from the PCM to the injectors so they won't flow any more fuel just incase there was a flooding of fuel incident.
That's what I've been doing for years on vehicles that have sat a while, being started after an oil change, or in cold weather.There IS a solution to your issue. It's called "Clear Flood". This feature is on all domestic OBD2 vehicles but on few imports.
When you first get into your truck in the AM, floor the throttle and crank away! It won't start until you back off the throttle.
Read your owner's manual!
This will allow oil pressure to build before starting.
You're welcome!
Spit in one hand and wish in the other! See which gets full quickest!That's what I've been doing for years on vehicles that have sat a while, being started after an oil change, or in cold weather.
I just want the ridiculous instant 1600 rpm cold start programmed down to a reasonable number, and not all at once as soon as the engine is started.
GM was pretty hubristic back in the day. They did accomplish a good thing when they got Rid of H. Ross Perot by buying his company out back in about 1992 or so, EDS. This company had the contract for manufacturing computers for GM. Trouble was, Perot was a maverick and did things his way, not to the engineering designs of GM's capable engineers.I had a new 1990 S10 w/ the 4.3 engine. Everytime it was started, with engine cold or hot, it would go thru an extended high idle. The mechanic said something about a open or closed loop computer setup or something I only know if you were working around the property, and were having to do any frequent stopping and starting, it was stupid to have to wait every time for that high idle to come down Just like a cold engine needed to do. So I'd just jam it in gear anyway and go.
I know of the grill cover but everytime I've looked at them they state for diesel only. Mines a gasser. I know the old school cardboard trick works but I thought the cover would be better for winter.. like I said they always say the cover is for diesel only.. so I left it aloneThat is why they make a winter front to cover the front of the truck to help restrict all of that cold air to the Radiator.
Thank you. I will have to do some research. It takes 20 to 30 minutes for the engine to heat enough to start pumping heat in the cabin. The heat works. It's just always taken forever to feel it inside. I left work in -30 awhile back. Defroster going and it sat for a few minutes before I left. Driving along in a hurry and a gust of wind hit the windshield and fogged completely over. Couldn't see anything and the defroster was still in the useless zone.. Now I just make sure it sits longer but the truck has always warmed up slowly. Always wondered if you could get an aftermarket heater.My '21 Classic starts heating in about 2 minutes.
Have you ever considered changing the coolant line thermostat to a warmer temperature unit or maybe yours is just seized open?
If it never closes, it will take much longer to blow heat.
In the old days, we used to pop them out and put them in a pan of water on the stove. You could start heating and see when or if it would open.
Again, many years ago, it was a 10-minute job to change a thermostat with little to no coolant loss. The last time I looked at changing one, it was a huge PITA and required draining lots of coolant first. I have no idea what's involved in a Ram. YouTube knows.
Yup, much more of a PITA.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zo6lQKAGY0M
PS: None of the vehicles I worked on as a youth had computers and the Ram trucks of today are much more complicated. I'd suggest you investigate the possibility that your existing thermostat is original and may not be working correctly. Also, discuss the issue with those that are familiar with Ram trucks & the associated coolant thermostats.
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Not sure why the one for the 1500 DT could not be used and or adapted did not think the front grill was all that different. Also Carid has on after market, fitment list Ram 2009 to 2012: https://www.carid.com/fia/black-win...wf923-13.html?singleid=168079397#applications or https://www.amazon.com/WF923-11-Cus...dp/B000766T5W/ref=psdc_15719731_t3_B0054KG14A orI know of the grill cover but everytime I've looked at them they state for diesel only. Mines a gasser. I know the old school cardboard trick works but I thought the cover would be better for winter.. like I said they always say the cover is for diesel only.. so I left it alone
Sounds like you should have bought a Durango. ;-PHere’s one I just thought about that I feel is a little bit more legit than whining about wanting a CD player but didn’t buy a truck that had one but I guess one of my other gripes about my Ram is that when they designed the premium projector headlights, why didn’t they make them like the near-identical projector headlights in the Dodge Durango‘s that had the white LED DRL‘s on the same board that had the orange marker lights and turn signals on the bottom of the headlights? Doesn’t seem to me like it would’ve been all that hard to do when there’s several companies in the aftermarket that make some upgraded LED boards to go in projector headlights to make them how they should’ve been when they came out of the factory.
I found out there’s a dedicated DRL wire that goes into the headlight plug on the truck side but because there is no white LED DRL in the headlights, they somehow connected that wire to the turn signal which means if you have alpha OBD, it doesn’t matter if you select turn signal or dedicated as your chosen location of your DRL’s because both those two selections is going to make the brighter side of your orange LED strips light up.
I guess it’s nice they finally incorporated this on the new fifth GEN body styles but why couldn’t they have done this on the fourth gens that have the premium projector headlights? Just doesn’t make sense to me.
Well, I will admit that at one time back when I was figuring out what I wanted in a truck- whether it was the three-quarter ton version of what I have now or if it was a three-quarter ton with a Cummins, but I thought really long and hard about that loaded SRT Durango that had that 485 horse 392 under the hood and even though that was gonna cost me about the same as my truck did if I had gotten the Limited 1500 but I figured something like that might get me into too much trouble so, I just went with the truck….Sounds like you should have bought a Durango. ;-P
The seats do suck in these trucks gets worse as the truck ages foam falls apart it kils me on long runs. I wonder if they are any better in the 5th gens? I have yet to get into one.I think the seats could be more comfortable. Also I lack a little bit space around my right knee when driving.
The best sitting seats my wife and I have ever ridden on are the factory seats in my 1994 Dodge 2500 SLT truck.The seats do suck in these trucks gets worse as the truck ages foam falls apart it kils me on long runs. I wonder if they are any better in the 5th gens? I have yet to get into one.
I think the seats could be more comfortable. Also I lack a little bit space around my right knee when driving.
I’m not sure what seats y’all have and who knows, maybe it’s because I have a Limited that has the maximum amount of adjustability in the driver seat but the driver seat in my ram is pretty comfortable. But then again, my passenger seat isn’t as much and the only thing I can think of as to why it isn’t is probably because you can’t adjust the seat cushion like you can the driver seat and the strange thing is, my wife’s Honda civic is the same way. Her driver seat is pretty comfortable but the passenger one, not so much.The seats do suck in these trucks gets worse as the truck ages foam falls apart it kils me on long runs. I wonder if they are any better in the 5th gens? I have yet to get into one.
Bad thing is, you’re going to find shoddy Quality Control in a lot of things these days in every vehicle manufacturer but the cool thing is, a lot of that stuff can be easily fixed/corrected.1. Shotty quality control
-master window switch doesn’t seem secure in the door panel
-little cup you put hand in to close door doesn’t fit in the door panel flush (same door)
-loose stitch in rear seat (never sat in)
-mini flaws in body
*this is all noticed after a few days of owning, brand new 2022 classic*
2. Black coolant reservoir so can’t see the color / level and it looks the same as the window wash fluids
These are my only gripes so far! Traded in a lemon 2022 4 runner