nsschwenk
Junior Member
Hey guys! I hope some of you might be able to help!
Truck info:
Completely Built 1999 Dodge Ram SLT Sport, Club Cab, 2wd, 5,000 miles
Build Sheet - SCT Tuned by HEMIFEVER Tuning
Engine:
5.2 318ci
Odessa Heads
Stainless Steel One Piece Valves
Mopar Performance Double Valve springs
Mopar Performance Hardened Retainers and Keepers
2.02 intake / 1.64 exhaust
Comp Cam (Custom Grind 220/210 Duration 0.518 lift)
R/T Injectors
Johnson Hylift Lifters
Edelbrock 6.90" Hardened Pushrods
JP Performance Double Roller Adjustable Timing Chain
Ported and Chopped Key Intake Manifold
Holley 53mm Throttle Body
Mopar Performance Air Hat w/ K&N filter
Meling High Volume Oil Pump
Taylor 409 10MM Drag Racing Wires
NGK Iridium Plugs
Davis Unified Ignitions Cap & Rotor
Davis Unified Ignitions 65,000 Volt Screaming Demon Coil
JBA Equal Length Headers
Full Catless Off-road Y-pipe from Jegs
Innovative Motorsports Wideband O2 sensor and gauge
Dumped Thush Welded Muffler
180 degree Thermostat
Lincoln Mark VIII Electric Fan Conversion
Flex-A-Lite Variable Speed Fan Controller
High Volume Water Pump
Gatorback Belt
New Idler Pulley
All Seals Replaced
FelPro Severe Duty Head Gasket
Edelbrock Intake and Exhaust Gasket
FelPro Timing Cover Gasket
FelPro Oil Pan Gasket
FelPro Water Pump Gasket
Transmission:
Martin Saine Built Transmission, Street/Strip Build for 700+ HP (M Saine Performance)
Aftermarket Racing Torque Converter (3000 RPM Stall)
Hardened Internals
Custom Built Billet Aluminum Drive Shaft
Posi Track
Manual or Full Auto Valve Body
Stage 3 Transgo Shift Kit
Larger Heavy Duty 47re Borg Warner Solenoids
7 clutch plates instead of 6
Bigger Drilled out intermediate shaft to improve flow
B&M Deep Sump Finned Aluminum Pan
Auxiliary Cooler and Filter
--------------------------------------------------------------
I first started noticing my truck having a high idle problems. Idle in park (1600-1800 rpms) and idle in drive with the braked pressed (around 1400 rpms). Air/fuel was around (13-14). It also had a bogging moment when letting off of the gas and slowing to a stop light. (air/fuel jumps to around 20-21). The truck is not throwing a check engine light code.
1. I cleaned the idle air control valve (wasn't really dirty and looked newer) and it didn't fix the problem and made my truck run leaner than before. The whole throttle body didn't look dirty at all.
2. I checked for vacuum leaks. I found a few small leaks with a couple hoses. I added clamps to them. I found a large vacuum leak on cylinder #8 fuel injector. I replaced the passenger side fuel injector o-rings. The o-rings I replaced were already new and were not defective after inspection. This did help some of the vacuum leak but it still leaks some even with using a small amount of grease to seal the o rings.
Starting the truck, no matter if it is hot or cold, it will idle at 1100 rpms @ (17-18 air/fuel) and after about 20 seconds it will increase its idle to 1400-1600 rmps @ (13-14 air/fuel). The current tune is adaptive.
After a few minutes at running at idle the headers glow bright red from the engine running way to lean.
My next step is to pressure test the fuel system. I might try replacing the o2 sensor, and fuel filter.
Any suggestions?
Truck info:
Completely Built 1999 Dodge Ram SLT Sport, Club Cab, 2wd, 5,000 miles
Build Sheet - SCT Tuned by HEMIFEVER Tuning
Engine:
5.2 318ci
Odessa Heads
Stainless Steel One Piece Valves
Mopar Performance Double Valve springs
Mopar Performance Hardened Retainers and Keepers
2.02 intake / 1.64 exhaust
Comp Cam (Custom Grind 220/210 Duration 0.518 lift)
R/T Injectors
Johnson Hylift Lifters
Edelbrock 6.90" Hardened Pushrods
JP Performance Double Roller Adjustable Timing Chain
Ported and Chopped Key Intake Manifold
Holley 53mm Throttle Body
Mopar Performance Air Hat w/ K&N filter
Meling High Volume Oil Pump
Taylor 409 10MM Drag Racing Wires
NGK Iridium Plugs
Davis Unified Ignitions Cap & Rotor
Davis Unified Ignitions 65,000 Volt Screaming Demon Coil
JBA Equal Length Headers
Full Catless Off-road Y-pipe from Jegs
Innovative Motorsports Wideband O2 sensor and gauge
Dumped Thush Welded Muffler
180 degree Thermostat
Lincoln Mark VIII Electric Fan Conversion
Flex-A-Lite Variable Speed Fan Controller
High Volume Water Pump
Gatorback Belt
New Idler Pulley
All Seals Replaced
FelPro Severe Duty Head Gasket
Edelbrock Intake and Exhaust Gasket
FelPro Timing Cover Gasket
FelPro Oil Pan Gasket
FelPro Water Pump Gasket
Transmission:
Martin Saine Built Transmission, Street/Strip Build for 700+ HP (M Saine Performance)
Aftermarket Racing Torque Converter (3000 RPM Stall)
Hardened Internals
Custom Built Billet Aluminum Drive Shaft
Posi Track
Manual or Full Auto Valve Body
Stage 3 Transgo Shift Kit
Larger Heavy Duty 47re Borg Warner Solenoids
7 clutch plates instead of 6
Bigger Drilled out intermediate shaft to improve flow
B&M Deep Sump Finned Aluminum Pan
Auxiliary Cooler and Filter
--------------------------------------------------------------
I first started noticing my truck having a high idle problems. Idle in park (1600-1800 rpms) and idle in drive with the braked pressed (around 1400 rpms). Air/fuel was around (13-14). It also had a bogging moment when letting off of the gas and slowing to a stop light. (air/fuel jumps to around 20-21). The truck is not throwing a check engine light code.
1. I cleaned the idle air control valve (wasn't really dirty and looked newer) and it didn't fix the problem and made my truck run leaner than before. The whole throttle body didn't look dirty at all.
2. I checked for vacuum leaks. I found a few small leaks with a couple hoses. I added clamps to them. I found a large vacuum leak on cylinder #8 fuel injector. I replaced the passenger side fuel injector o-rings. The o-rings I replaced were already new and were not defective after inspection. This did help some of the vacuum leak but it still leaks some even with using a small amount of grease to seal the o rings.
Starting the truck, no matter if it is hot or cold, it will idle at 1100 rpms @ (17-18 air/fuel) and after about 20 seconds it will increase its idle to 1400-1600 rmps @ (13-14 air/fuel). The current tune is adaptive.
After a few minutes at running at idle the headers glow bright red from the engine running way to lean.
My next step is to pressure test the fuel system. I might try replacing the o2 sensor, and fuel filter.
Any suggestions?