Anyone know where to find a rack and pinion?

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seahawkdodge

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Anyone have a lead on this?
I have verified the fuses are good, but my PS is out. I really can't drive the truck.

None of the parts houses have any in stock and have no date for availability. Napa, Car quest, O'Reilly's, Autozone and Advance were all the same.

One dealership said $2700 and six months. Another said $2500 and they would only sell if they installed it, $4200 plus tax. Plus 2-3 months for the part.

Rockauto, Partsgeek are all completely out online.

Help?

2014 Ram 1500 CC 4x4 Laramie
 

Dodge 1500 4X4

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Did you verify voltage at the unit and ground is good, you can take the access cover off the rack and check for water and contamination, some have had luck drying it out or possible a bad solder joint, you can also check the drive belt.
 
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seahawkdodge

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Hmmm. Drive belt?

When I first start the truck, there is no error. But as soon as I turn the wheel a couple inches it kicks back to center hard and the error pops. Thanks for the link JW, I appreciate it.
 
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seahawkdodge

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It has power steering for a couple inches, or a second, then fails and kicks the wheel back.

Is there a write up on that access cover? I haven't verified voltage at the plug yet (or ground), I will when I get time this week.

It would be nice if the NHSTA expands the recall, but that's probably going to be another year or two.
 

Jeepwalker

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It might not be the belt if it has a little P/S activity. Unless its stretched, gets hot & starts slipping. I haven't seen any write-ups unfortunately. There are some other videos on GM and Ford units which seem remarkably similar. I personally haven't dealt with one (though I'd sure like to).

The list of possibilities others seem to have observed are:
-Possible electrical connection failures (also check & wiggle fuses)
-Possible worn bushings
-Possible wet/damaged control board (worth a look - behind square plate on back-side)
-Damaged/stretched or worn drive belt
-Electric motor with a possible dead spot where it hangs up??

I'm just tossing out ideas. If you're a DIY-heavy kind of guy, crack it open and see what jumps out. Probably the only way to know. You could try a google search for a rebuilt EPS unit too. IIRC they go for around $650-ish.. :waytogo:
 
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Jeepwalker

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The word is they seemed to have improved them. The later trucks don't *seem* to have the same issues (yet...). Which would be one good reason to get a new Mopar one. But they're obviously not cheap.
 

chri5k

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There are a few used ones on EBay. They ain’t cheap. People know hat the have is in short / nonexistent supply. Might get you by until the shortage eases up. Keep refreshing your EBay search. I did that when DEF pumps were very very hard to find. One popped up that wasn’t there the hour before and I bought it.
 

Sherman Bird

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Anyone have a lead on this?
I have verified the fuses are good, but my PS is out. I really can't drive the truck.

None of the parts houses have any in stock and have no date for availability. Napa, Car quest, O'Reilly's, Autozone and Advance were all the same.

One dealership said $2700 and six months. Another said $2500 and they would only sell if they installed it, $4200 plus tax. Plus 2-3 months for the part.

Rockauto, Partsgeek are all completely out online.

Help?

2014 Ram 1500 CC 4x4 Laramie
So, you've concluded that the rack needs replaced based upon just checking fuses? Not enough.
I do wonder if parts can be obtained anywhere to rebuild your original unit, IF it proves to be at fault. I believe you should have it professionally diagnosed.

"Doctor! I need a brain tumor removed! I have these horrible headaches!".... Could be the guy needs new glasses! Diagnostics needed, definitely.
 
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seahawkdodge

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It would be nice if I had an FSM for this truck. I know how to troubleshoot, but that usually involves having the correct information. That is my biggest hurdle, outside of not having all the time I need.

Any suggestions or references would be greatly appreciated. I would love to find that it's something simple, and not the whole rack and pinion.
 

Jeepwalker

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Here's your manual (read directions carefully...it works):

Link: Go HERE. Scroll to the bottom of the page where you see a post with several manuals linked to download. Click the link for the manual for your yr truck. That takes you to the forum member's Google Docs pg. Then click 'Download'. It'll give a pop-up (it's too big of a file). Disregard the warning and download the pdf. Then save it. It works I just verified it. Lots of guys have downloaded it. It's not my pg btw. I haven't read through the power steering section yet.

Good luck. :waytogo:
 

670hoth

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I wonder if you're steering position sensor could cause this.
 

Jeepwalker

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Maybe that's where they attached the jumper cable ...and/or, they just happened to touch that stud (hooked backwards)..

Thanks for sharing

.
 
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Jeepwalker

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Trucks worked just fine and drove nice in the early 00's w/o 50 electronic systems....lol

My 1989 Chevy 4x4 gets the same mpg as my Ram... (doesn't have as much power maybe....but does ok). It's been extremely trouble-free. Not trying to be a luddite, just pointing it out..
 
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seahawkdodge

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Thank you for the FSM link, and the video links.
I have some troubleshooting to do. I can't find any DTCs with my code reader, but the error is not going away.

Around town I get maybe 12-15mpg. On the highway though, I can get between 20 and 22, depending on how fast I go. Cruise set at 75, it gets 19-20. At 65 it is over 20. Best was back road highways at 55-65, got just short of 22 hand calculated (21.6mpg).

Way better than my 85 ram did.
 

Jeepwalker

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Good luck. Let us know how it goes.

Note: Does your scan tool allow you to see the EPS? If not, maybe what Autozone or OReilly's uses ..does.
 
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seahawkdodge

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The one I have is a Craftsman, and it very well may not be able to see the EPS. I can't really tell exactly what systems it can access. If I have to drive it to Oreilly's, I guess I will. It's a bear to drive, holy hell.
 

Jeepwalker

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Do you have a buddy with something a little more advanced (scan tool) you can ask to come over?

If not, do the checks you were going to do anyway, to rule out whatever you can. You can for sure check voltage down at the EPS unit and work back to the batt if necessary. Check for leaks, etc.
 
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seahawkdodge

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2vdc on the control voltage. The big plug was good for voltage and ground. Had 2k ohms across the canbus pins.

Nevermind. Wrong pins and interrupted by the eclipse.

Had 12vdc on pin 2 of the small connector (control pwr). 60 ohms across pins 1 and 3 (canbus + to -), 5k ohms from pins 1 and 3 to pin 2.

I am not sure what the reading is supposed to be across the canbus wires. I swore I found 5ohms somewhere, but can't find it now.
 
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