Anyone know where to find a rack and pinion?

[Jeepwalker]

I like to take things apart. If it were my truck I would check the truck can 'talk' to the EPS unit. There you need a scan tool. You could buy AlfaOBD (that's what a lot of guys here use) with an MX Plus adapter. (just search on this forum for AlphaOBD). If you have a buddy with a good scan tool, would be nice. See if there are some updated or newer Ram EPS videos or info out there.

If you want "to see what's going on", remove the EPS unit from the truck HERE. Take off the pass side tie rod b/c you'll need to remove that tie rod bellow to inspect the belt. Remove the square cover door (pic below) and inspect the circuit board. Some owners have had that area partially filled with water. The board itself is encased in a plastic (conform). Inspect the circuit board if you kind of understand electronics ...for corrosion, burnt areas, and anything else. Then the belt. If you work carefully, a guy can loosen the metal bands that hold on the tie rod bellows and re-crimp the same band back on with the right tool, or even a wire knippers (the front kind).

If you don't see anything, put it back on or buy a REFURB UNIT for now (get an extended warranty). Driving it around w/o power steering will soon add wear to the intermediate steering shaft so, avoid doing that.


If

 

[seahawkdodge]

In order to do anything further, I would need the scan tool, and to remove the cover plate on the EPS unit.
I am familiar with electronics, but they can fail without any kind of signs. Corrosion, damage and burn marks are nice smoking guns though.

In order to read the wires in accordance with the FSM, I have to access the D2600F connector. That seems to be on the firewall, behind the heater core and all the ducting. The FSM has been helpful, but either I am misinterpreting where the connector is, or no technician will ever read out those wires for continuity.

 

[Jeepwalker]

Up to you. If you removed that cover and the main wires at the circuit board teminals are corroded, then you learned something(they're not waterproof).

You **must** know a guy who can come over and scan your truck??? Maybe this is the time to go buy AlfaOBD... Or maybe it's better off buying a refurb for now for $4xx? It'll cost 6x more at the dealer.

Cheers!

 

[NETim]

My understanding is each end of a CANBUS is terminated with a 120 ohm resistor. So if measuring across the Canbus +and - sides of the cable should yield 60 ohms.

 

[seahawkdodge]

I have a coworker that has a better scanner, so I can get that Monday.
As far as the unit goes, the cheapest one I can find in stock is $1900. There are almost none available anywhere.

60 ohms looks good then!

 

[pete m]

I recently had to replace my electric rack due to same conditions as you described. No aftermarket racks available. Had local dealer do a p/n# search and found one for$2400. Pulled cover on rack, nothing jumped out and all connections were tight. Once u repl. rack u got to set toe and make sure you reprogram!! And the pn# supercedes to an AB.

 

[Tominator223]

I’d try to find a local rebuilder. Let them check & diagnose. ( some where that only does rac’s & steering ). If it’s a street driven 4x4 with high miles . It may be a bad e-motor. If you drive it through everything under the sun. It may be connection & or corrosion issue.

 

[seahawkdodge]

It is a high mileage 4x4, 135k miles.
I poked around the Internet a bit for steering gear repair. Nobody I called repairs the units themselves. I am waiting on a couple calls back from other places.

 

[Jeepwalker]

Thats not high mileage, mine's got 175k!

 

[seahawkdodge]

I called a bunch more places, nobody deals with rebuilding steering boxes, much less the electric ones.
Oh well.

 

[seahawkdodge]

From Rock Auto:

Thank you for your interest in purchasing parts from RockAuto. You asked to be notified about the following part:

2014 RAM 1500 5.7L V8
Steering : Rack and Pinion
MOPAR Part # 68242957AF

We are sorry to tell you that this part is now discontinued, and we no longer foresee having this part in stock.

We have also checked our catalog and determined that there are no alternative parts available. However, we add parts to the catalog daily and are looking for suppliers of new products, so please check again soon.

RockAuto, LLC
Madison, WI

 

[Jeepwalker]

That's probably b/c if there's a new model, an updated one, it isn't in their catalog yet (I'm assuming).

Have you gone to another Dodge dealer part's dept, or called them. See what's avail from other dealers. You can forget getting one from Mopar warehouse due to the strike/s. But they could buy from another dealer if one was available. Or if there was one avail within driving distance you could drive there and buy it. Might be hard to find given the problems these have had, but worth calls. You'll end up paying through the nose ...to get one at full bore pricing probably.

I thought I sent you a link, a refurbished one HERE. It might not fit, depending on yourmodel ram. Why don't you just buy that? Since you need something now.

Or take yours apart and dig into it??? Learn a new skill. That's what I would do.

 

[seahawkdodge]

You sent me to the Ford F150 unit JW. I looked up the Ram unit on their website...Out Of Stock.

I have called two dealerships so far. One said they had no date, but it would probably be six months. The other said they might be able to get one, but would not sell me the part without them installing it. I will try calling some of the other area dealers and see what they say.

I also reached out to Ram (doesn't) Care.

 

[Jeepwalker]

Hmmm, the link might have changed to their universal homepage. IDK. Did you do a search on their drop-down? Might be worth a call. Did you do a general google search...see what comes up?

The install is real quick, if you had to have the dealer do it. You probably watched the videos. It won't be cheap going the dealer route. But... That's one bummer (EPS units) on these 4th gens. Sorry to hear your run-around. I hope you find one. You 'could' try calling some local salvage yards or LKQ and see if they can get one. 2014 is almost 10 yrs old by now, there should be 'some' in the yards. It might come down to that.

 

[seahawkdodge]

I found some in stock at a local dealership. I also found one in stock in Dallas. Dallas is a few hundred cheaper, but I am still looking at $2200.

I called a few salvage yards as well. They all want $1400-$1600 for the rack and pinion, if they have it. "Guaranteed for 3 months!"

 

[Jeepwalker]

Yeah, not a pleasant call. Supposedly the news ones per the last several yrs have been 'updated' ...per some other forum members, and haven't been causing problems. I don't know what those updates are. If you can spring for it, to me the 'updated' (new) one seems to be wiser money, than a used one with probably quite a few miles, which might flake out who knows when?? Unless the used one was like a 2018-ish or newer. Those early racks seem to be the ones which give up the ghost early.

The new ones come with new inner/outer tie rods which is a slight bonus, & should make your truck steer tighter, or at least last longer than your current ones. But again, nobody wants to spend 2 grand on something that should last the life of the truck. ...But if it lasts till you move on, that's worth something there. I guess you have to look at the costs/benefit and your wallet and go from there.

Not to spend more of your $$, but have the shop check the ball joints for wear (>.5mm freeplay) and the upper control arms. Bushings too. Even the CV joints & wheel bearings. If you have to get a re-alignment, you want to get anything worn fixed ahead of time.

 

[seahawkdodge]

C2217-00-ELECTRIC POWER STEERING MODULE INTERNAL

Well, there we go. $2200 part it is.

I refuse to spend $1500 for a used unit of unknown history.

When I replace the EPS, I will be at least checking all of the tie rod ends and suspension ends. Anything worn will be getting replaced.

Thanks all for your assistance with this.

 

[Jeepwalker]

Good luck. Let us know how it goes. At least you checked out the electrical and considered all the angles. Considering the strike circumstances, $2,200 is less than some others have paid during normal times.

Cheers

 

[Nodnarb]

Had the exact same problem as you and fixed it a few months ago. Mine did the same thing with not throwing an error until you tried to turn the wheel, then it’s out. I took the cover off of mine and you’ll find that there is corrosion on the actual board traces itself. I might still have pics of mine. Honestly if they just sold the board, it’d be a $20 fix. But alas I had to call around different Mopar parts vendors and somehow a dealership in Detroit had one in their backstock that they didn’t know about and I bit the bullet on it for $2k. Very easy install and I didn’t need to go to the dealer. Also taking the cover off is a pain, the screws they use didn’t seem to fit any of my 5 different security torx bits I bought. Not worth it in my opinion to hassle with it. I wish you luck in locating a new one.

 

[Hemi395]

Had the exact same problem as you and fixed it a few months ago. Mine did the same thing with not throwing an error until you tried to turn the wheelView attachment 530394View attachment 530397, then it’s out. I took the cover off of mine and you’ll find that there is corrosion on the actual board traces itself. I might still have pics of mine. Honestly if they just sold the board, it’d be a $20 fix. But alas I had to call around different Mopar parts vendors and somehow a dealership in Detroit had one in their backstock that they didn’t know about and I bit the bullet on it for $2k. Very easy install and I View attachment 530393didn’t need to go to the dealer. Also taking the cover off is a pain, the screws they use didn’t seem to fi any of my 5 different security torx bits I bought. Not worth it in my opinion to hassle with it. I wish you luck in locating a new one.

Wow thanks for posting the pics!

Is it me, or does this not look very water tight??