How to add remote start to 2017 Ram

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Jimmy07

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RaMatt

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I wanted to share my recent experience with attempting to add a remote start to my 2017 1500 Laramie. I first took my truck to the dealer after buying the needed hood latch and installing it with the wires that were already in place. I also picked up a remote off Amazon with the added button. I need to take the truck in for a recall so I thought it would be the perfect time to get the remote start key programmed. They were going to charge an hour of labor and thought that it was reasonable. I went to pick my truck up and they said everything was done but the remote start because my key was the issue. The key work just as my other keys but for the remote start button which I thought was fishy due to the advisor not able to tell me why but for you didn't buy it from us.

After being very frustrated with my last visit to the dealer that I had purchased the truck from brand new, I decided to bring it back for more recalls. This time I had an advisor who was a former tech for GM for many years and I decided to see if he would give me the real reason why I didn't have remote start from the last visit. He stated he would look into it and let me know when I picked up my truck. When I arrived back at the dealer I brought my remote start key with me to have him test it out per his request. My truck did have an XMB code added to it from last visit so that was not the issue he found out so he drove my truck to the service bay to have it reprogrammed. He finally was able to tell me that the specific RF module I have in my truck will not allow for remote start and it was tied to codes gx4, ser, xbv and ahb.

So in all, I have an almost top of the line truck that cannot have a factory remote start done because one part can receive a specific signal. I asked about updating that part and he stated it would not be worth it after everything. Has anyone else had this issue or have any insight in how to fix this?
 

Jimmy07

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I wanted to share my recent experience with attempting to add a remote start to my 2017 1500 Laramie. I first took my truck to the dealer after buying the needed hood latch and installing it with the wires that were already in place. I also picked up a remote off Amazon with the added button. I need to take the truck in for a recall so I thought it would be the perfect time to get the remote start key programmed. They were going to charge an hour of labor and thought that it was reasonable. I went to pick my truck up and they said everything was done but the remote start because my key was the issue. The key work just as my other keys but for the remote start button which I thought was fishy due to the advisor not able to tell me why but for you didn't buy it from us.

After being very frustrated with my last visit to the dealer that I had purchased the truck from brand new, I decided to bring it back for more recalls. This time I had an advisor who was a former tech for GM for many years and I decided to see if he would give me the real reason why I didn't have remote start from the last visit. He stated he would look into it and let me know when I picked up my truck. When I arrived back at the dealer I brought my remote start key with me to have him test it out per his request. My truck did have an XMB code added to it from last visit so that was not the issue he found out so he drove my truck to the service bay to have it reprogrammed. He finally was able to tell me that the specific RF module I have in my truck will not allow for remote start and it was tied to codes gx4, ser, xbv and ahb.

So in all, I have an almost top of the line truck that cannot have a factory remote start done because one part can receive a specific signal. I asked about updating that part and he stated it would not be worth it after everything. Has anyone else had this issue or have any insight in how to fix this?
The 2017’s are only available with two possible rf hubs- one for the keyless enter and go (push button start) trucks, or one for the trucks that use a key fob to start...both of which are capable of remote start. You say you have GX4, which tells me you have push button start, so the rf hub is certainly not the issue.
You say the wiring for the hood latch was already there, but did you trace it to where it goes to the front end connector and make sure the OTHER side of the connector is populated. This is where the wire continues on to pin 11 on the C1 connector of the BCM.
 

Lawsuit11

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By chance did you just swap the keyfobs on the keys. Swap the other key fob pad(new one not programmed) to your current one and see if it would work?

Also. My truck has the harness from the hood latch connector to under the engine fuse box. It stops there and doesn’t go any further. I should have everything come in the mail today to be able to run the rest of the wire ground and to the 11 pin on the bcm(C1) to finish it.


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Jimmy07

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By chance did you just swap the keyfobs on the keys. Swap the other key fob pad(new one not programmed) to your current one and see if it would work?


2018 Black Pearl Ram 1500

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This, too. You should be using your ORIGINAL key fob with internals and the only thing you should have transferred over to your existing key fob is the button overlay pad that has the remote start button.
 

Lawsuit11

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How in gods green earth did you guys get the pin in C1 pin #11 of the BCM. You have to be a acrobat just to get under there. Smh. I have everything ran but can’t seem to fish myself under there to get that pin in 11. Lol


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RaMatt

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The 2017’s are only available with two possible rf hubs- one for the keyless enter and go (push button start) trucks, or one for the trucks that use a key fob to start...both of which are capable of remote start. You say you have GX4, which tells me you have push button start, so the rf hub is certainly not the issue.
You say the wiring for the hood latch was already there, but did you trace it to where it goes to the front end connector and make sure the OTHER side of the connector is populated. This is where the wire continues on to pin 11 on the C1 connector of the BCM.

I did not remove the wiring loom and physically trace the wires but I did find that the pin out in the instructions has wires of the same color in the connector under the PCM. Also there are wires that leave the other side of that connector in the same pin location. I did not see if the wires leaving trace to the BCM yet but might need to. I have attached pictures of the connector and I have also attached what the dealer gave me as a reason why I can't have remote start.

Note from dealer.jpeg

Connector one.jpeg

Connector two.jpeg
 

RaMatt

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This, too. You should be using your ORIGINAL key fob with internals and the only thing you should have transferred over to your existing key fob is the button overlay pad that has the remote start button.

My original key fob does not have an a button on the board for the remote start. This is the first thing I did so that I was using factory parts but apparently neither of my factory keys came with this option.
 

Jkieffer

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When I did mine I had both connectors pinned BUT when I went to the bcm there was no wire for my pin 11 and just like others could not locate where it ended in the large wire loom. Not sure if lawsuit ever found his either. Is you pin 11 populated with the correct wire? Do you know it the ground wire for the sensor is indeed grounded? In my case the harness and connector was there but after the large connector went nowhere and did not complete the connection. As far as the pushbutton remotes every one I have disassembled had the same board. The overlay was different but same board.

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Lawsuit11

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When I did mine I had both connectors pinned BUT when I went to the bcm there was no wire for my pin 11 and just like others could not locate where it ended in the large wire loom. Not sure if lawsuit ever found his either. Is you pin 11 populated with the correct wire? Do you know it the ground wire for the sensor is indeed grounded? In my case the harness and connector was there but after the large connector went nowhere and did not complete the connection. As far as the pushbutton remotes every one I have disassembled had the same board. The overlay was different but same board.

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Mine stopped right before the firewall. I toned the wire and it stopped there. So now I have ran new wires from the body side of the connector but having the hardest time getting it connected as I can seem to lay right to get the pin in #11 smh


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Lawsuit11

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I did not remove the wiring loom and physically trace the wires but I did find that the pin out in the instructions has wires of the same color in the connector under the PCM. Also there are wires that leave the other side of that connector in the same pin location. I did not see if the wires leaving trace to the BCM yet but might need to. I have attached pictures of the connector and I have also attached what the dealer gave me as a reason why I can't have remote start.

View attachment 146393

View attachment 146394

View attachment 146395

If you pull your remote apart and it looks like this board. The one circled in red is your remote start button just switch out the pad and try it out

This is my original fob with no remote start but it still has the spot on the board. Just need the correct pad for it to work.

ca2022c49dea5f6e8d93dad334b1a348.jpg

589a4ef74017c59a361a4637e3ed6522.jpg


2018 Black Pearl Ram 1500

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Lawsuit11

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All,

Just wanted to let you know that I have been able to program key fobs and REMOTE START using AlfaOBD tool. Thank you @Ghost_RAM and @Moab_Rockstar for all your assistance.

Just to recap I have a 2017 1500 Express.

Installed the harness that deereguy donated to me. (can also get terminal repair kit and make your own, or find terminate the connection which may be installed in your truck already.
If you order the kit from mopar it has everything and comes with fobs although is more expensive.

Ordered key fob cases from Ebay with the remote start overlay. Opened old fobs and removed board and installed in the new case. (SOME FIT SOME DO NOT)

I also ordered some cheap fobs just incase as spares.

I programmed all fobs using the Alfa tool using the base line setting in the RF hub menu. (Alexy said use HIline setting but it would not work for me)

I exited the tool and went to lunch.

I then went back in and set the following about an hour later.

Hood Ajar Switch Input Present

VTA Hood Ajar Monitoring

VTA System Present --- Not needed for remote start but why not have that cool theft alarm

Hood Ajar Switch Usage (Select “500 ohm and 500 ohm parallel resistors)

Sound Horn with Remote Start CSM --- Give you the options on the 8.4 screen to enable or disable horn chirps with remote start.

I saved and exited the tool.

I then.went back in about 30 minutes later and set remote start to yes.

Exited again.

I then did the rf hub refresh using 4 digit numeric pin code from the dealer.

Then I waited very impatiently trying every 15 minutes or so and rechecked my wiring thinking I made a mistake.

I gave up for the night and about 1.5 hours later after going back a fourth with Ghost_ram i tried it again and it started working.

I have a full functioning remote start kit for right around 100.00 not counting the software.

I will post more detailed instructions with screen shots later this weekend.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

Hey. When pinning the BCM #11 pin did you have to release a lock on the connector or anything. I can get the pin about 3/4 of the way in the connector then it jams up. Won’t go any further than that. Did you have this problem when you were pinning the pin 11 in C1. I can’t seem to figure out how to get it to pin correctly.


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Jkieffer

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I'm assuming you took.off the outside casing I used a small micro screwdriver and pushed from the visible portion when I had to take it back out. My truck originally did not have 11 pinned with anything.

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Ghost_RAM

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Hey. When pinning the BCM #11 pin did you have to release a lock on the connector or anything. I can get the pin about 3/4 of the way in the connector then it jams up. Won’t go any further than that. Did you have this problem when you were pinning the pin 11 in C1. I can’t seem to figure out how to get it to pin correctly.


2018 Black Pearl Ram 1500

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Were you able to get the pin fully inserted? If not, start on page 7 here.
 

Lawsuit11

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Were you able to get the pin fully inserted? If not, start on page 7 here.

No lol. It wouldn’t fully seat. I’m thinking it could have been the Crimp on the wire coating that it is snagging on. It’s been a pain in my ass lol. Dummy me only purchased 3 pins for the bcm so I just ordered 10 more just Incase my IWISS crimp tool had other plans. Lol


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Ghost_RAM

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No lol. It wouldn’t fully seat. I’m thinking it could have been the Crimp on the wire coating that it is snagging on. It’s been a pain in my ass lol. Dummy me only purchased 3 pins for the bcm so I just ordered 10 more just Incase my IWISS crimp tool had other plans. Lol


2018 Black Pearl Ram 1500

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Oh ok. I didn't have to crimp anything as I found my full kit on eBay so the #11 pin was ready to go. Other than getting the connector dislodged from the BCM it was pretty easy going.
 

Lawsuit11

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Oh ok. I didn't have to crimp anything as I found my full kit on eBay so the #11 pin was ready to go. Other than getting the connector dislodged from the BCM it was pretty easy going.

Yeah I’m trying to go the cheap route cause it only cost me like $50 for everything so far. Connectors wire hood latch.


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Jimmy07

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No lol. It wouldn’t fully seat. I’m thinking it could have been the Crimp on the wire coating that it is snagging on. It’s been a pain in my ass lol. Dummy me only purchased 3 pins for the bcm so I just ordered 10 more just Incase my IWISS crimp tool had other plans. Lol


2018 Black Pearl Ram 1500

LED Tail Lights, Black Quad Halogens with LED conversion, LED Black 3rd Break Light, Blacked Out Emblems, Rims & Grill, 8.4 UAQ conversion! MTC to ATC Mod almost
That happens to me sometimes. Just use a pair of needle nose pliers to get it wrapped around the wire insulation so it matches the profile of the wire with no tabs protruding. Double check that the terminal is nice and straight. Then use the needle nose pliers to insert the pin in the slot, grabbing it by the wire just above the crimp. This will keep the wire from bunching up and buckling on you. As the pin starts going in, you might need to re-grab the wire further back. I know it’s a tight spot you’re working in, but I have a small pair of needle nose that the nose is bent on a 60 degree angle for stuff like this.
 

Lawsuit11

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That happens to me sometimes. Just use a pair of needle nose pliers to get it wrapped around the wire insulation so it matches the profile of the wire with no tabs protruding. Double check that the terminal is nice and straight. Then use the needle nose pliers to insert the pin in the slot, grabbing it by the wire just above the crimp. This will keep the wire from bunching up and buckling on you. As the pin starts going in, you might need to re-grab the wire further back. I know it’s a tight spot you’re working in, but I have a small pair of needle nose that the nose is bent on a 60 degree angle for stuff like this.

I appreciate the help I have a 90 degree needle nose pliers. All I did was unplug C1 and take the light switch out of the vent so I can see what I’m doing without laying down lol and being upside down. I just didn’t know if there was a lock like some connectors to add and remove pins


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Ghost_RAM

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I appreciate the help I have a 90 degree needle nose pliers. All I did was unplug C1 and take the light switch out of the vent so I can see what I’m doing without laying down lol and being upside down. I just didn’t know if there was a lock like some connectors to add and remove pins


2018 Black Pearl Ram 1500

LED Tail Lights, Black Quad Halogens with LED conversion, LED Black 3rd Break Light, Blacked Out Emblems, Rims & Grill, 8.4 UAQ conversion! MTC to ATC Mod almost
Yes, if you have something in the pin 11 location it needs to be removed but just inserting a pin should slide in and click. To remove it again you would have to get a small tool in to remove again. If I'm not mistaken though, they have to be inserted the correct way but I believe it would still go in all the way but if not the correct way it wouldn't hold firm. And of course, you have to remove the outer casing by pressing in on the release tabs.
 
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