OEM 4 Button AUX Switch Panel

[smoothee]

Check that you have the connections correct, each button has an led that does light up. My young 84 has a good post with everything you need to know. good luck

Easydog

Thanks, but everything does work correctly and the switches light up once turned on. I'm talking about the letters (aux 1, aux 2, etc.) not being illuminated with the dash lights like everything else. It isn't a feature of this switch panel, unfortunately.

 

[easydog]

OK, got it. Had same thoughts

Regards

 

[Mac233]

For Sale
One 4 button Aux. switch and switch harness for 4th Gen Dodge Ram, fits bottom knock out panel of centre bezel $80.00
Easydog

Do you still have this? If so private msg me. Thanks

 

[Mac233]

Duffy did it work out for you? Having a similar idea.

 

[Mac233]

First off, I want to thank you for posting you article on AUX switch, It has been a great help to me. I plan on installing one set of fog lamps, one set of spot lamps, and one set of driving lights on my 09 Ram. I want the fog lights to com on with the low beam lights, and the driving lights to come on with the high beam lights. and the spots to run independently from the head lights and operate only from the aux. switch.
To accomplish this I tapped two trigger wires for the relays one and two into the high and low beam headlight feed at the headlight plug drivers side. Can I use the hot trigger wire from the low beam lights to trigger one relay closed so the fog lights operate when the low beams are on, by feeding a feed to the fog lights through #87 and # 30 from the battery when the relay trips by the low beam trigger wire. Then when I toggle the high beam switch on the steering column to high beam the # one relay would drop out and the #2 relay would trip from the high beam trigger wire and the driving lights would get their feed from the battery. If this would work do I need to be concerned about protecting the Aux. switch from stray voltage when the relay trips. I would be operating two 130w floods, and two 55w fog lights on a flip flop set up. I notice that on your drawing there isn't any provision or mention of voltage spike or protection for the electronics if it occurs, is it necessary do you think?

I basically want to use the Aux as a master switch for the extra lighting, If I don't need or want the extra lighting at all times then the Aux switch would act as a master switch preventing the extra lights from coming on , and the factory set up could carry on as normal.
I had first intended to use the four relays on the aux switch to operate the relays on the lighting harness that comes with the lights I am installing, but this may be too redundant. I would appreciate your comments you may have in this regard. The spots would be operated by the aux switch only, and the #4 relay would be for future use.
Hope I haven't confused you!
Thanks
Daffy

Did you get this to work?

 

[easydog]

Yes it worked great, It gives you more options to suit the night time conditions. If tapping into the high beam circuit I would suggest that you use relays with quenching diodes or resistors to help protect your body modules from voltage spikes.

Good Luck

Easydog

 

[Unit_91]

What's wirrd to the other side of the relay coil? The switch panel output is ground so you'll need 12v on the opposite side of the relay coil.

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Can this be done and only have one of the switches functional? Or do all the wires have to be wired to all the switches have to be wired for one switch to work?

 

[smoothee]

Can this be done and only have one of the switches functional? Or do all the wires have to be wired to all the switches have to be wired for one switch to work?

Yes it can, you don't need all the outputs hooked up. Right now I'm only using two of the four switches. As long as you connect the switch ground and two power wires you'll be good to go.

 

[Unit_91]

Yes it can, you don't need all the outputs hooked up. Right now I'm only using two of the four switches. As long as you connect the switch ground and two power wires you'll be good to go.

So I have a light bar and a wiring relay harness to power it. I just ordered my aux switch panel that came with the wiring kit. I'm hoping some can really really dumb down these instructions and wiring diagram for me. And if there is anything else needed please let me know


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[smoothee]

So I have a light bar and a wiring relay harness to power it. I just ordered my aux switch panel that came with the wiring kit. I'm hoping some can really really dumb down these instructions and wiring diagram for me. And if there is anything else needed please let me know


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You should have everything you need. The diagram and instructions myoung posted are really thorough, but ask away with any particular questions. It's really not bad, don't let all the numbers and stuff on the relay mess you up.

 

[Unit_91]

You should have everything you need. The diagram and instructions myyoung posted are really thorough, but ask away with any particular questions. It's really not bad, don't let all the numbers and stuff on the relay mess you up.

Okay awesome thanks. I'm just not sure where to start or how to start if that makes sense. I'm confused on what exactly I'm wiring. Am I wiring the push button to the plug, then the plug to my plug on the relay harness? Is that correct? Or am I cutting off the end of my relay harness and wiring that to the back of the plug on panel? And if my relay harness has a fuse do I still need to add one? If someone has a really dumbed down version of install instructions that would help a ton lol.


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[Unit_91]

What's wirrd to the other side of the relay coil? The switch panel output is ground so you'll need 12v on the opposite side of the relay coil.

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

Yes it can, you don't need all the outputs hooked up. Right now I'm only using two of the four switches. As long as you connect the switch ground and two power wires you'll be good to go.

What I'm confused about is this. My relay harness already come with a illuminated switch, am I able to cut off that existing switch on the harness, and run those existing wires directly in to the new auxiliary switch panel into six 1?


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[smoothee]

What I'm confused about is this. My relay harness already come with a illuminated switch, am I able to cut off that existing switch on the harness, and run those existing wires directly in to the new auxiliary switch panel into six 1?


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Yes, you cut off the switch that came with the harness.

So you assemble the plug that came with the oem aux switch. There is enough wire provided to allow you to ground the switch itself and make the two power connections for the oem aux switch (a lot use the cigarette lighter circuit).

Then you can either extend the wire for aux 1 out through the firewall, or run the wire from the harness switch that you cut in through the firewall. I prefer to run everything OUT through and mount my relays/fuses etc. next to the fuse panel in the engine bay.
But that's up to you.

You'll probably have to modify your relay connections (I did) that came with your harness for this switch (unlike the oem switch that uses a negative output, most use a 12V output).

From there, just follow the diagram on page one. Numbers for the coil (85 and 86) don't matter but I'll use them for ease.

"-" from your light bar itself will go directly to frame ground
"+" from light bar will go to 30 on the relay (yes, you should use an additional inline fuse)
Aux 1 output wire you ran will go to 85 on the relay
87 on the relay (fused) will go to your 12V source (you can go to battery, or a switched source)
Jumper 86 to 87 for ease.

Hope that helps.

 

[Unit_91]

Yes, you cut off the switch that came with the harness.



So you assemble the plug that came with the oem aux switch. There is enough wire provided to allow you to ground the switch itself and make the two power connections for the oem aux switch (a lot use the cigarette lighter circuit).



Then you can either extend the wire for aux 1 out through the firewall, or run the wire from the harness switch that you cut in through the firewall. I prefer to run everything OUT through and mount my relays/fuses etc. next to the fuse panel in the engine bay.

But that's up to you.



You'll probably have to modify your relay connections (I did) that came with your harness for this switch (unlike the oem switch that uses a negative output, most use a 12V output).



From there, just follow the diagram on page one. Numbers for the coil (85 and 86) don't matter but I'll use them for ease.



"-" from your light bar itself will go directly to frame ground

"+" from light bar will go to 30 on the relay (yes, you should use an additional inline fuse)

Aux 1 output wire you ran will go to 85 on the relay

87 on the relay (fused) will go to your 12V source (you can go to battery, or a switched source)

Jumper 86 to 87 for ease.



Hope that helps.

It does. Thank you so much! Now, how hard is this going to be for someone with zero wiring experience? Cause I'm not sure how to wire in fuses or anything.


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[smoothee]

It does. Thank you so much! Now, how hard is this going to be for someone with zero wiring experience? Cause I'm not sure how to wire in fuses or anything.


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Gotta start somewhere right, lol. It'll be a bit time consuming, but not hard. Just pick up a fuse holder similar to the one that already came with the harness and place it in between the light bar "+" and the relay. I prefer to use solder and heat shrink for everything external to ensure the best connection. Do you have a buddy that may be able to give you a hand or something?

 

[Unit_91]

Gotta start somewhere right, lol. It'll be a bit time consuming, but not hard. Just pick up a fuse holder similar to the one that already came with the harness and place it in between the light bar "+" and the relay. I prefer to use solder and heat shrink for everything external to ensure the best connection. Do you have a buddy that may be able to give you a hand or something?

Possibly. So I for sure can't just wire the harness directly to back of the button? I have to go through the plug at the back of the panel? Then the plug to the switch? Do you happen to have pictures of the back of the panel? I'm trying to just use the one switch to just that one button. My harness can't power everything on that panel anyways. If I were to get something else that needed power then that would require another harness and be individually wired as well. So instead of a harness powering all four switches, I'll have a harness dedicated to each individual switch. Is that possible?


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[smoothee]

Possibly. So I for sure can't just wire the harness directly to back of the button? I have to go through the plug at the back of the panel? Then the plug to the switch? Do you happen to have pictures of the back of the panel? I'm trying to just use the one switch to just that one button. My harness can't power everything on that panel anyways. If I were to get something else that needed power then that would require another harness and be individually wired as well. So instead of a harness powering all four switches, I'll have a harness dedicated to each individual switch. Is that possible?


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You're overthinking this. No, you can't bypass the plug. The plug is what allows you to provides power and ground to the switch panel. And possesses your outputs. There is only one plug for the four buttons. You just assemble the plug as shown and plug it in. Then you connect your switch wire that you cut to the designated aux wire on the other side of that plug, like you would any other switch.

And the harness has nothing to do with powering that switch panel. You should run a separate harness/relay setup for each load anyway, regardless of what type of switch you use.

 

[Unit_91]

Now how did everyone wire the roof mounted light bar. Did most drill through the roof? Or run the wiring down the a pillar?


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[Litenyaup]

Just the tread I have been looking for. I want these BAD!!

 

[smoothee]

Do it!