Pcm or intake manifold first?

[bdemutis]

Yes it pinged under hard accel, just have to work with it. If your plenum is leaking it will ping even harder. There is no way to adjust the timing on our motors its all in the pcm, not to sure trying to over ride it would be wise.

If you install the intake it will also like prem fuel, most any mods go best with prem fuel.

The starting point for your year truck is the pcm if you can't or don't want to use prem fuel then don't mod it at all, it will only waste your cash and make you unhappy with your truck.

Edit: If you install the M1 no pcm it will bog at bit, you install the Hughes F1 and it will bog a lot, both will make you unhappy with the results.

So basically first upgrade should be a pcm and if I don't upgrade my pcm I shouldn't upgrade anything else. I guess my only choice is to buy the pcm and I wonder if using octane booster would work. I guess I could always upgrade the ignition and see if it does anything.

 

[Merc225hp]

You got it sir. I have used the oct boost stuff some work, some is monkey ****. It does work out to cost more using oct boost over prem. I have been using 94 Chevron fuel for the last few years great fuel, truck loves it, $1.68L not that bad cost wise.

 

[bdemutis]

You got it sir. I have used the oct boost stuff some work, some is monkey ****. It does work out to cost more using oct boost over prem. I have been using 94 Chevron fuel for the last few years great fuel, truck loves it, $1.68L not that bad cost wise.

Ok thanks I might buy the pcm and upgrade my ignition coil with a msd or something I might replace my plenum just to be safe also. I also need to replace my steering stabilizer it blew out and leaked all the oil out lol.

 

[bdemutis]

Dodge guy also told me I can use ford injectors for upgrades he said something about the mustang ones but he said he forgot which ones they were.

 

[Merc225hp]

I use the MSD ign coil and there wire leads nice stuff, I have used the MSD6al in my truck it only made a small performance gain but it was all in the upper rpm range like 4500+.

I am one of "THOSE" that does not use a steering stabilizer, I would not replace it.

 

[bdemutis]

I use the MSD ign coil and there wire leads nice stuff, I have used the MSD6al in my truck it only made a small performance gain but it was all in the upper rpm range like 4500+.

I am one of "THOSE" that does not use a steering stabilizer, I would not replace it.

I like my stabilizer I need a front end alignment big time but I like the stabilizer I can feel the difference the steering doesn't feel as stiff since it blew out.

 

[Merc225hp]

Dodge guy also told me I can use ford injectors for upgrades he said something about the mustang ones but he said he forgot which ones they were.

You will not need new injectors with just the M pcm if you install the M1 or F1 intake then it will come more into play. Before you start thinking fuel injectors you need to get the A/F gauge, this will tell you if you need bigger or smaller injectors to get the fuel trim close to optimal.

 

[bdemutis]

You will not need new injectors with just the M pcm if you install the M1 or F1 intake then it will come more into play. Before you start thinking fuel injectors you need to get the A/F gauge, this will tell you if you need bigger or smaller injectors to get the fuel trim close to optimal.

A/F gauge?

 

[Merc225hp]

A/F gauge = Air fuel ratio gauge.

Just an top end example in the link below, I would look at a autometer a/f gauge. All A/F gauges should be wide band not narrow, narrow is a waste of $$$ and time.

Gasoline Air/Fuel Meter (Dual Sensor) Fuelairspark.com

 

[bdemutis]

A/F gauge = Air fuel ratio gauge.

Just an top end example in the link below, I would look at a autometer a/f gauge. All A/F gauges should be wide band not narrow, narrow is a waste of $$$ and time.

Gasoline Air/Fuel Meter (Dual Sensor) Fuelairspark.com

That's allot of money lol.

 

[bdemutis]

A/F gauge = Air fuel ratio gauge.

Just an top end example in the link below, I would look at a autometer a/f gauge. All A/F gauges should be wide band not narrow, narrow is a waste of $$$ and time.

Gasoline Air/Fuel Meter (Dual Sensor) Fuelairspark.com

So will any wideband A/F gauge be good.

 

[dodge dude94]

"Dodge guy"? WTF dude?





Listen to Mark, he knows his ****.

 

[bdemutis]

"Dodge guy"? WTF dude?





Listen to Mark, he knows his ****.

I was having a brain fart earlier but yea I ordered my pcm I guess I'll just have to buckle down and stop being cheap on gas lol. Next thing to upgrade is the wires and coil. I changed my plugs but never did a full tune up on it I never even took the cap off because you have to remove the air intake. Ill most likely check it while I have the intake off when putting in the new pcm.

 

[bdemutis]

What is a good cheap Air fuel monitor?

Edit: Also is there even a need for a air fuel meter its not like I'm tuning a carb by hand the computer does all the tuning its not like I can prevent it from running rich or lean unless I replace 02 sensors or I change the thermostat to a 180 so it leans out quicker and more efficiently.

 

[Merc225hp]

http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/atm-4379 looks like there might be a small rebate offer.

 

[bdemutis]

http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/atm-4379 looks like there might be a small rebate offer.

So correct me if I'm wrong its just a gauge then I need to get the sensors and drill and weld a **** into my exhaust then wire the sensor to my gauge? Like I said is there a reason to have it though its not like I can tune the car by hand like a carbureted car.

 

[Merc225hp]

That one comes with everything needed shy of the weld in **** for the exhaust pipe. There will be the gauge, the wideband 02 sensor and a wiring harness. Yes there is a reason to have one it tells you if you are running lean, fat and where in the rpm range. You can mess with the injectors size thats how this whole a/f gauge talk started, you wanted bigger injectors. This gauge can be moved to any other car/truck in the future so its not a waste of cash by any means.

Edit: BTY Taking the air hat off is easy, changing the cap and rotor is the hard part. Almost zero room back there to work in.

 

[bdemutis]

That one comes with everything needed shy of the weld in **** for the exhaust pipe. There will be the gauge, the wideband 02 sensor and a wiring harness. Yes there is a reason to have one it tells you if you are running lean, fat and where in the rpm range. You can mess with the injectors size thats how this whole a/f gauge talk started, you wanted bigger injectors. This gauge can be moved to any other car/truck in the future so its not a waste of cash by any means.

Edit: BTY Taking the air hat off is easy, changing the cap and rotor is the hard part. Almost zero room back there to work in.

Ok thanks and I noticed that when I first got the truck and when I put the cold air intake on. They also gave you little to no room for a cold air intake mine almost hits the top of the frame.

 

[Merc225hp]

I have way more more back there to change the cap and rotor then you do because of the M1 intake, but I still take the extra 10min to remove the TB just to make it that much easier. With the TB off I take the time to clean it and the IAC before it goes back on. If you plan on changing wire leads, take the cap and wires off in one piece and install the same way, but be ready to spend some time routing the leads in the right manner (as per the TSB).

Edit: I change my cap and rotor spring and fall, they are what I consider consumable parts. They are cheap somewhat easy to change and make the world of difference in the way a motor runs. Make sure you get a cap with brass terminals not aluminum.

 

[bdemutis]

I have way more more back there to change the cap and rotor then you do because of the M1 intake, but I still take the extra 10min to remove the TB just to make it that much easier. With the TB off I take the time to clean it and the IAC before it goes back on. If you plan on changing wire leads, take the cap and wires off in one piece and install the same way, but be ready to spend some time routing the leads in the right manner (as per the TSB).

Edit: I change my cap and rotor spring and fall, they are what I consider consumable parts. They are cheap somewhat easy to change and make the world of difference in the way a motor runs. Make sure you get a cap with brass terminals not aluminum.

I was thinking of ordering everything off of summit racing I was going to order a msd cap and rotor maybe a msd coil while I was at it and maybe wires my wires look pretty healthy though. Taking the throttle body off the last time I tried taking it off I took it off to put a throttle body spacer in yes I know I bought one off of ebay I know people say they work most say they don't I don't care I spent $25 on it. Anyway I unbolted it and I could not get the damn cables out of it to fully disconnect it. Before this truck I had a blazer and that was easy getting the cables out of because I would spray it with tb cleaner then use a old tooth brush and clean the carbon build up out of the intake and tb.