Stock Lug Nut Upgrade

[Hemi395]

I wouldn't recommend anti-sieize on the threads ; however , a bit of anti-sieize or thixogrease / similar product with an extremely high psi rating between the mating Surface of the wheel and contact area of the lug nuts is a good idea .

^^^This

 

[smiley]

How about using anti seize? I'm thinking that may have helped some of those guys who had factory lug nut damage.

The reason I would not do anti seize is the ability to over torque is much more likely. Plus you wouldn't need it on the lugs. Doing on the backside of the wheel is smart as where the wheel touches the hub it can seize on and cause some headaches.

 

[Hipps2000]

I put antiseize on my gorilla threads.i will also add some behind the wheels next time off. I hand torque em...and with the salt put down on the roads Today could be good idea. Also a little goes a long way...it really shouldn't be a problem if you are careful. I applied a little with a q-tip on the threads inside lugs.

 

[Burla]

The other link was correct, those are the right Gorillas for pre 2012 just like the chart in the ebay ad said, 2011 and lower. They are heavier and longer then that stock garbage. They said to torque them to around 85, and I always remember torqueing lugs to 90 in past vehicles. I think I will torque on the lower side and check them for a while. I'm not thrilled about the threads, they don't look bright shiny stainless. I will be researching and using anti seize, likely silver or similar. They aren't horrible, not varnishing yet, but look as if there are other metals in the mix like copper. Glad I found this thread, hope others do as well. Man those friggen stock lugs are GARBAGE.

7/8's socket works on both, but someone said 10mm even tighter, but that doesn't sound right? I use what I got, 7/8's works just fine.

3 guys I respect say don't use it, but the metal inside the gorillas is not what I expected. Maybe I just use a little, like Smiley said I will make sure not to over torque, i will be under factory numbers for sure. They came bulk, I would have preferred gorilla packaging. They work like a charm, I will do them all in a few months, gonna re-plasti dip and rotate at the same time.

 

[Hemi395]

I think antiseize used sparingly on the threads isn't a bad idea, especially in areas road salt is used. As mentioned, a little goes a long way...

 

[AzCats]

Thanks for the info! I picked up a set of gorilla lugs from the Discount/America's tires local store for $3 a lug. FYI, for people who want them right away at a decent price.

 

[grizzstang]

I have had the back wheels off twice and noticed the second time that the lug nuts already showed wear. I didn't use an impact and I used a torque wrench to put them back on. This thread convinced me to upgrade. I ordered 4 packs (4 in each) of the #66147DX lug nuts and 1 pack (4) of the #96641DX locking nuts.

 

[blackbetty14]

Antisieze should be used on the lug threads. All this talk about over torquing them is bull$hit and its only if you use an impact wrench... which is not the correct way to do it. Same thing goes for the oil pan drain plug (which is what quick lube shops do to speed up the process) bc it works doesnt mean its right.

Antisieze on the threads and break out the 1/2" torque wrench and snug down to 130ftlbs. You will never overtq, and never have an issue getting them off. Theres a reason why they have a tq spec.

I pulled my stock wheels and lugs after 14k miles and swapped new rims/tires and used the free lugs that came with the wheels, 14mmx1.5 in black steel. Shouldnt have a problem ever with these. But they are cheap enough to just replace every few years.

 

[grizzstang]

I have had the back wheels off twice and noticed the second time that the lug nuts already showed wear. I didn't use an impact and I used a torque wrench to put them back on. This thread convinced me to upgrade. I ordered 4 packs (4 in each) of the #66147DX lug nuts and 1 pack (4) of the #96641DX locking nuts.

My nuts showed up Monday and I put them on last night. The packages did not say "lifetime lug nuts" and I noticed on the Gorilla web site the lifetime nuts are listed as 66147, no DX. I emailed Gorilla to ask what the difference between the two are but have not received an answer.

 

[69GWC]

The ones I bought off Amazon.

 

[grizzstang]

Well, I guess I should have done a little more research before I bought the Gorilla 66147DX lug nuts. See Gorilla's response below.

"Thanks for getting in touch.

Part number 66147DX was previously a product that we extended our lifetime warranty to, however it was removed from that warranty classification about
2 months ago and now carries a 1 year manufacturers defect warranty.

If you purchased this part from a retailer that advertised the product as lifetime, please send me a copy of the receipt or webpage you purchased it from. If you purchased it from a retailer as a lifetime warranty, we can extend the warranty to that product, however all listings I'm aware of have been changed to remove that note and packaging associated with it.

At this time only products listed on our website under the "Lifetime Lug Nuts" category have that warranty.

Thank you,

Jon Collier
National Sales Manager"


I am betting if they pulled the lifetime warranty then they were having to honor that warranty more than they liked. I should have dug deeper before I ordered and for those of you that bought them when they were lifetime, keep your bill.

Interesting to note that the DX non lifetime warranty lugs are about a buck more per pack of 4 than the lifetime warranty version, which makes zero sense to me.

 

[Hemi395]

Well damn that sucks, I have the DX lugs on my truck....

 

[grizzstang]

^^^If you have proof of purchase and bought them more than 2 months ago you will still have lifetime warranty.

How are they holding up so far?




I asked the difference between the 66147DX (1 year warranty) and the 66147 (lifetime) and here it is explained below.

"The difference between the two parts is enough that we would not generally recommend the lifetime version for your application, though it can be used.
I've attached a picture of the 66148 (66147 is the 4pack) lug nut here for review. The part number you bought is specifically a "factory style" bulge lug nut to match your OEM lug nut style.

The major difference in the construction and quality of the product is much more limited. The lifetime lug nuts are forged and one piece, with a better heat treatment process and higher salt spray rated chrome plating.

That said, with any chrome plated lug nut I make, with regular maintenance and cleaning they should hold up great. Salt is really only an issue if it's allowed to sit on chrome plating and start corroding through the chrome, if it's cleaned off before any damage can happen the plating will hold up for many years.

Another point, neither our lifetime or 1 year warranty cover misuse or neglect, only manufacturers defects, so lug nuts that are not maintained and failed under those circumstances would not be covered under our warranty, with some discretion and consideration for each circumstance of course. We support our products and our warranty and I am as fair as I can be based on each situation.

Thank you,

Jon Collier
National Sales Manager"

So by that, the 66147DX is the one they would recommend for Dodge factory wheels. I like the way they look. I guess we will see how long they last as my truck will be driven in the winter and will see road salt.

 

[Hemi395]

They still look new after a New England winter


Either way, I'm sure these will be more durable and last longer than the stock lugs

 

[grizzstang]

Something else I just noticed after looking at Hemi's pic is that my lug nuts are not the same. They have a crown at the top instead of being flat. So maybe a new supplier prompted the warranty change?

 

[Avgas]

Antisieze should be used on the lug threads. All this talk about over torquing them is bull$hit and its only if you use an impact wrench... which is not the correct way to do it. Same thing goes for the oil pan drain plug (which is what quick lube shops do to speed up the process) bc it works doesnt mean its right.

Antisieze on the threads and break out the 1/2" torque wrench and snug down to 130ftlbs. You will never overtq, and never have an issue getting them off. Theres a reason why they have a tq spec.

I pulled my stock wheels and lugs after 14k miles and swapped new rims/tires and used the free lugs that came with the wheels, 14mmx1.5 in black steel. Shouldnt have a problem ever with these. But they are cheap enough to just replace every few years.

The torque values listed in the owners/shop manual are dry torque numbers, unless otherwise noted. By reducing the friction of the lugnut to stud by applying a wet compound, you are essentially reducing the Run-on torque and increasing the clamp on force. It might not be enough to cause an issue, but you are technically over torquing the fastener.

This reminds me of a story shared by a fellow aircraft technician. While building up Q400 aircraft wheels in the backstop, the required anti-size used for the wheel tie bolts was not available. The airline engineer was contacted, and promptly recommended an alternate anti-size product. The technician proceeded to assemble several wheel assemblies that day with the newly recommended anti-seize. Several weeks later, there were 2 catastrophic wheel failures upon landing. An investigation concluded that the wheel tie bolts had been over torqued due to use of the improper anti seize compound. The engineer neglected to look up the difference in friction coefficient between the two compounds, this difference was enough to cause a clamp force difference that ultimately caused a failure. The engineer was fired on the spot.

If you do insist in using anti-seize in your lugnuts, I would recommend torquing it to the lower end of the torque range.

 

[Samsonlabs]

2011 & Older
• Type: Acorn
• Thread: 9/16-18 RH
• Taper: 60° Acorn

2012-2017
• Type: Acorn
• Thread: M14 x 1.5
• Taper: 60° Acorn

Quick question: I have the 2014 Express black with the 20" rims. Does it matter if you get bulge acorn or acorn? they are both 60° and M14 x 1.5

 

[joeygster]

Something else I just noticed after looking at Hemi's pic is that my lug nuts are not the same. They have a crown at the top instead of being flat. So maybe a new supplier prompted the warranty change?

Those look like Gorilla brand lugnuts from the number I see stamped in them.

 

[Hemi395]

Quick question: I have the 2014 Express black with the 20" rims. Does it matter if you get bulge acorn or acorn? they are both 60° and M14 x 1.5

I'm going to say no it doesn't matter, but I'm not positive...

 

[Samsonlabs]

Yea on ebay it says that 66148BDX will fit factory alloy/aluminum with large seat but may not fit aftermarket wheels. ON gorilla automotive is calls this part number factory style bulge black chrome. And as per usual, dealer parts is less than helpful hehehe. I think I am going to take a chance on these and see what happens, worst thing is gotta send them back...